rvf loud rattling noise!

[Kuehpau]

hey guys! need some advice.

 

my rvf started to have this loud rattling noise coming from the engine.

went to change eo (shell advance 10w40) but the noise still there.

thought better eo wld silence it.

 

kindof loud when idling and whenever i drag.

any idea where the noise is coming from?

 

clock abt 300km every week and have been changing eo monthly.

something to do with the pistons or cam?

[dinie]

what's your bike mileage? might be time to do valve clearance adjustment.

[w00t]

Maybe there's a rattle snake in the bike, try catching it out to silence it. haha okay back to real stuff

 

 

Where's the noise coming from? Try to locate the source of the noise.

 

top end would usually be piston / cams

 

bottom end should be clutch or transmission

 

is there any things you do that would trigger the noise? like

- starting the bike when cold

- starting the bike when hot

- opening throttle

- clutching in

 

If changing engine oil does not helps, its good to visit your trusted workshop soon, but at least you should know whats wrong with it and what to change to prevent getting carroted by the vast number of black shop these days. Good luck!

[Kuehpau]

hahaha right a rattle snake.

 

anyway, the rattling is more to the lower end.

 

when i start the bike, usually let it idle for 5 mins, hot or cold, noise still there.

 

the rattling is most obvious in the lower rpm band frm 1 to 4.

it then sounds like a flutter whenever i throttle hard.

 

anything to do with the clutch plate?

i just changed them abt a month ago.

 

bike mileage im not so sure, the odo reads abt 300,000.

correct me if im wrong, thats abt 480000 km?

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

I have a rattling noise from my much more puny little 200cc engine at low rpms cos the engine hates sitting around especially when cold. Also hates low octane fuel with a vengeance.

 

Could it be combustion knock (like in my case) - this sounds like diesel taxi because diesels knock all the time normally?

[BLACK COMET]

Hmmm. intersting. I also recentlyfacing problem with my 200cc too.

 

Mileage is 1000Km plus (got it 1 month ago)

 

Initialy was ok until the oil start foaming. I then proceed to change oil (only discover the foaming 100km later).

 

Rattling sound was getting loud. so sent in for valve clearance. The result was there's no changes in valve clearnace when they check.

 

It was 1000km so I change to fully syn oil. And now they rattle is wierd.

 

Cold no sound. after getting hot from the journey and traffic Jams, the rattling will come loud.

 

The symptoms is totally oposite of excessive valve clearnace problems.

 

I'm still scratching my head.

[QuaXum]

what bike is this bro? and what caused the foaming?

 

 

Hmmm. intersting. I also recentlyfacing problem with my 200cc too.

 

Mileage is 1000Km plus (got it 1 month ago)

 

Initialy was ok until the oil start foaming. I then proceed to change oil (only discover the foaming 100km later).

 

Rattling sound was getting loud. so sent in for valve clearance. The result was there's no changes in valve clearnace when they check.

 

It was 1000km so I change to fully syn oil. And now they rattle is wierd.

 

Cold no sound. after getting hot from the journey and traffic Jams, the rattling will come loud.

 

The symptoms is totally oposite of excessive valve clearnace problems.

 

I'm still scratching my head.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Hmmm. intersting. I also recentlyfacing problem with my 200cc too.

 

Mileage is 1000Km plus (got it 1 month ago)

 

Initialy was ok until the oil start foaming. I then proceed to change oil (only discover the foaming 100km later).

 

Rattling sound was getting loud. so sent in for valve clearance. The result was there's no changes in valve clearnace when they check.

 

It was 1000km so I change to fully syn oil. And now they rattle is wierd.

 

Cold no sound. after getting hot from the journey and traffic Jams, the rattling will come loud.

 

The symptoms is totally oposite of excessive valve clearnace problems.

 

I'm still scratching my head.

 

Hi, I know valve clearance does change with the cylinder head temperature but I think you will notice the rattle if the piston were to physically slam into the valves (it's very destructive).

 

What may be happening is that when the engine is hot, temperature is not constant over the entire piston due to carbon buildup, etc.

 

Hot spots may cause predetonation as the fuel-air charge is auto-ignited on these hot spots causing a loss of efficiency.

 

Sending in for decarbon may cure the issue, and also give your mechs a chance to look at the piston condition.

 

Alternatively, tune the carb a bit richer to allow for better charge cooling. Otherwise there's nothing much we can do if the engine is thermally inefficient (especially on rebored blocks like mine - thinner walls = runs hotter) except for attempting to run smaller back sprockets. Lower cruise RPM = lower temperature too.

 

For my case, I feel the crankcase temperature by hand and adjust the carb settings every so often (depending on fuel level, daily temperature/time of day, power requirements etc). If I'm running wide open throttle to get to and from work, over-rich it is.

[holeyman2000]

i could be wrong ::

 

1. water pump

 

2. need a new timing chain

[BLACK COMET]

what bike is this bro? and what caused the foaming?

 

A 2008 Suzuki dr200se. New old stock.

One of the oil change, the mech under fill the oil for me. So I just top up with whatever oil I can get my hand on.

 

Got some liquid moly fully syn oil from my friend. Aprox 150ml. The bike was using castrol mineral. I didn't notice much until it got noisier.

 

When I check sight glass,(immediate check after stoping the engine after a ride) it was foaming. So I decide to drain and change new oil.

 

At 1K sent in for first service and ask them to check. Mech told me they check but specs of valve clearance never change at all.

 

Riding back home though sounds better but heat up already the sound return.

and now is always heat up already(after ride, after jam after KPE) the tapping sound will be more obvious. when start from cold, sounds like other normal 4 t bike.

 

I kinda leave it to fate and decide to bring to another mech to take a look.

[BLACK COMET]

Hi, I know valve clearance does change with the cylinder head temperature but I think you will notice the rattle if the piston were to physically slam into the valves (it's very destructive).

 

What may be happening is that when the engine is hot, temperature is not constant over the entire piston due to carbon buildup, etc.

 

Hot spots may cause predetonation as the fuel-air charge is auto-ignited on these hot spots causing a loss of efficiency.

 

Sending in for decarbon may cure the issue, and also give your mechs a chance to look at the piston condition.

 

Alternatively, tune the carb a bit richer to allow for better charge cooling. Otherwise there's nothing much we can do if the engine is thermally inefficient (especially on rebored blocks like mine - thinner walls = runs hotter) except for attempting to run smaller back sprockets. Lower cruise RPM = lower temperature too.

 

For my case, I feel the crankcase temperature by hand and adjust the carb settings every so often (depending on fuel level, daily temperature/time of day, power requirements etc). If I'm running wide open throttle to get to and from work, over-rich it is.

 

Err. My bike is just 1 month old. not so fast right? I always use 98 or v-power only.

 

I'm still pretty new to gear bikes. So now can only bring to shop to fix.

 

Sprocket for my bike, they only have stock ratios. I have order from overseas already. Will use the new ratio sproket when the old one wears out.

[louisyhw]

check the valve.. maybe due for valve clearance/replacement.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Err. My bike is just 1 month old. not so fast right? I always use 98 or v-power only.

 

I'm still pretty new to gear bikes. So now can only bring to shop to fix.

 

Sprocket for my bike, they only have stock ratios. I have order from overseas already. Will use the new ratio sproket when the old one wears out.

 

You never know - I got my Phantom less than a few weeks after overhaul and I sort of notice, once broken in the engine is helluva noisy piece of dinosaur technology but it runs great like that, so no complaints.

 

Maybe the running noises are part of your bike too - check out your respective bike owners' forum here on SBF. No naked engine is completely silent, be it your hi torque DR motor or my heavy duty workhorse one.

 

Last tip - ditch the castrol mineral. My bike became so quiet after I switched to Chex 9000 full synthetic. Maybe you can try something superior and not so expensive, like Motul 3000. $10 only.

[guoliang]

i'm riding a sp i suppose i have the same problem as you guys.

at around 6k rpm, theres this 'tattooing' sound

its from the left side of the bike. i have no idea what's wrong

[BLACK COMET]

You never know - I got my Phantom less than a few weeks after overhaul and I sort of notice, once broken in the engine is helluva noisy piece of dinosaur technology but it runs great like that, so no complaints.

 

Maybe the running noises are part of your bike too - check out your respective bike owners' forum here on SBF. No naked engine is completely silent, be it your hi torque DR motor or my heavy duty workhorse one.

 

Last tip - ditch the castrol mineral. My bike became so quiet after I switched to Chex 9000 full synthetic. Maybe you can try something superior and not so expensive, like Motul 3000. $10 only.

 

True.

I got a second opinions from 2 bike shop. I deal with scrams and 1 actually ride the same model. And their verdict is the same. both say suzuki bikes are like that, so no need to worry. Just use better oil and change on time and that's about it.

[Kuehpau]

speakin abt engine oils..

whats recommended for rvf?

 

we never start our bikes in freezing cnditions in singapore, so the first weight grading of the 4t oil doesn't reli apply to us right? (5w, 10w, 20w)

since these are the indicators of the oil characteristics in winter conditions.

 

wat is imprtnt is the second one right? (30, 40, 50)

the indicators of the oil characteristics in high tempeartures.

 

correct me if im wrong tho.

 

so since rvfs, or any other big bikes, run at high temperatures and we reli hav hot weather,

heavier oils are the best? say 15w50? or 20w50?

 

and since the lesser the factor of multiplication of the weight of an oil in both winter and high temp cnditions, the more stable the oil is and less likely to break down.

 

am i right to say 20w50 is the best?

 

anyway guys for your info, reali useful stuffs: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

[Kuehpau]

anyway, safe to say the main thinggs to settle the rattling are:

 

1.valve clearance/ replacement

2. carb tuning

3. decarbon

4. change to superior eo

 

correct?

[BLACK COMET]

speakin abt engine oils..

whats recommended for rvf?

 

we never start our bikes in freezing cnditions in singapore, so the first weight grading of the 4t oil doesn't reli apply to us right? (5w, 10w, 20w)

since these are the indicators of the oil characteristics in winter conditions.

 

wat is imprtnt is the second one right? (30, 40, 50)

the indicators of the oil characteristics in high tempeartures.

 

correct me if im wrong tho.

 

so since rvfs, or any other big bikes, run at high temperatures and we reli hav hot weather,

heavier oils are the best? say 15w50? or 20w50?

 

and since the lesser the factor of multiplication of the weight of an oil in both winter and high temp cnditions, the more stable the oil is and less likely to break down.

 

am i right to say 20w50 is the best?

 

anyway guys for your info, reali useful stuffs: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

 

Actually no.

 

That is what I though actually.

 

Until I tried a very famous brand 5-40. And was very disappointed. The distributor is a nice guy, but he have left this world. WE actually sit down and disccuss my findings.

 

End up our conclusion is correct. The 5-40 standard by API, SAE and JASO all covers a very wide range of vicosity.

 

So the trick is to look at the MSDS numbers. MSDS = material data sheet.

 

They will tell you the composition of oil and the vicosity at diff temperature.

 

The values is CST at 40 degree and CST at 100 deg.

 

CST stands for centi stroke. A good number will be no less than 90 at 40 degree and no less than 13 at 100 degree. VI or vicosity index should be 160 above. TBN ideally should be 9 and above.

 

CST at 40 degree. The lower the number the less thick it is. IT will be good for flow when start up too high/thick. the flow will not be fast and engine wear will occurs. Mobil 1 racing is at cst 60 at 40 degree. 12cst at 100degree It is nice. But for some reason, it feels thin out at high temp even the 100 degree is at 12 cst.

 

VI. Vicosity index. usually fully syn oil VI is range from 150 to 180. The hiher it is, the better resistance to breakdown. If you see a fully syn vi at 140. Chances it's a super hydro crack group 3A mineral oil with tons of additive.

 

If you see additive that is more than 10% of the whole composition. Chances is this is a Group 3A oil. Group 3 A oil is a super hydro crack mineral oil.

 

TBN is total base number. The value for neutralizing acid. The higer the number the better the reserve capability. Meaning Got acid, the oil will neutralise the acid. When the oil neutralised an amount of acid. Then TBN will drop. When TBN drops to zero. It means the oil have exhausted the additive and is no longer able to neutalise any more acid.

 

The pil rating like API SG-SL and JASO-MA. API rating is tough. Although The rating will change overtime. Please do not think SL is better than SG. Cos the later SL ratings have lower additive. It may be good for the envoirament and cars. But not neccessary good for bikes.

 

JASO-MA rating is the best and easiest to remember. Cos JASO MA rating is purely for bikes. If the oil have the rating. Chances is it will have enough bike type additives.

 

To cut things short. Just get good main stream brand bike oil. So far, all the Brand MSDS That I have gone thru (not all the brand in the world thou)

U won't go wrong with Amsoil, Redline, Maxima and motul. Mainstream oil brand like mobil and esso is fine. But it may not be to the likes of everyone.

 

Personally, I will not use Shell and castrol fully syn because they are a joke in my context.