The GSXR 600,750 & 1000 Hangout. Where All GSXR Riders Chill And Gather!!

[Shark]

Don't you ride the RR? Go ask them instead. I have detailed discussions with a bunch of the 1000RR guys, they all seem to favour the VARIOUS BRANDS(for the benefit of Mr WW who seems to have an ax to grind about the most general comment) 10W40/5W40 grades heavily after trying out different grades, with only 1 or 2 oddball that insist on 15W50. What do u mean drain quite a bit?

 

Encountered a few times of engine oil requiring to top up after some time. Most recently being a few weeks ago a friend on an R1 '03 had an oil change to Maxima 10w40 before the track day & it didn't last. At the start of the 5 lap race, his FI light had already come on indicating a low level of engine oil. As you have said, maybe it's just only 1 or 2 oddball there. Maybe its just within our own bikes there. No offence brudder was just relating some experience & I apologise if you feel offended. Peace.

[SuZukY6]

Built quality, Akra seems better. But arrow should be cheaper to repair.

 

ah... ordered my akra liaoz....

but have to wait..

cos now holiday mth for them...

earliest date they gave me is sept - oct..

haiz....

[WW]

I totally agree that your own personal preference of whatever brand you want to use in your bike is sacred and up to you. If you wanna put cooking oil into your bike, I will defend your right to do so.

 

I TOTALLY DISAGREE that the durability of the EO is 'depend on how you take care of your bike and the frequency of chaning the EO.' If we are even comparing how fast EO breakdown so that you can use the oil longer, how can you 'depend on frequency of change'?? Of course must compare at same milage of use, and the whole point is that a tough oil stays in optimal grade longer.

 

To use the right viscosity and a tough oil to give the best performance from day 1 to as long as possible. Typical 10W50 isn't the best choice, this is well known if you read up on how viscosity index typically affects durability.

 

The only reason you think this is an argument with no result is because you fail to understand what ASTM, JIS is about to engineers. Engineers do not pull numbers out of their a$$ because the specs must be repeatable.

 

Your layman 'understanding' and 'recommendations', while true to your own butt dyno preference, does not apply to others because others may not have the same 'spec' butt dino. This is precisely why these standard repeatable numbers are quoted to indicate and compare an oil's performance, along with countless others that define the oil performance in various aspects.

 

As for repeatedly hammering that I am pushing Ultra, that's baseless. I recommend the typical 10W40 all along, just as I admit that Maxima's own 10W40 is not suitable because of the way they make it, it just too thin even when brand new.

 

I never say 5W50 is the magic grade! The Ultra comes closest to 10W40 and gives the durability. YOu come across as clueless what the visc numbers really mean. Their real viscosity goes beyond what is printed on the bottle (ie, 10W40), and must be derived from DATASHEETS (that might be another unfamiliar term to you, since u not engineer).

 

I make the recommendations base on the actual Centistokes viscosity at operating temp, and the projection of how long the oil is able to retain that viscosity. Again, the typical 10W50 has been shown to turn watery very fast, indicative of poor viscosity retention, a weak oil in layman term.

 

Of course i wont understand what ASTM, as you say i am not a ENGINEER, i work as a SAFETY personal. But that would applied to many here. As you say typical 10W50 is weak, that why i say the something is wrong with the world, cos since it weak, and the grade 10W50 is derived from DATASHEETS. Why would so many EO company still produce 10W50 grade EO since you say it a weak oil.

 

And one more thing , engineer only know hwo to read data sheet ??? but dun know how read singlish. REad caredully on my post, i didt say that the EO　break down lei, i said bike break down depend on how you take care of your bike and the frequent changing of EO.

Open up your eye and read Mr. ENGINEER. Or engineer are good in playing roti prata ,satay and taichi kufu ???

 

So chaning to watever fully sys EO whether will it break down your bike faster, i think it still depend on how you take care of your bike and the frequency of chaning the EO.

 

I already say i recommend base on my own self butt ass dyno on my bike, you base on your datasheet and other oil standard.

I wont understand all datasheet, but i trust my bike that it not giving mi any problem related to use of 10w50 EO and that is enough for mi, but it not enough for you.

AND All those how thick or thin oil is all say by you FIRST and not by mi. So i didt say anything that i dun know , and i didt pull anything from my A$$ as i am not a engineer.

 

And did from the first disscusion on EO, did you see mi put a gun onto a one and force him to use 10W50 EO.

 

If you are already so good in providing data , number , research and watever , dun need to worry that ppl here dun know how to read and judge which EO　is good.

[LouisB]

sonni side track abit...WW can consider tis round print PINK t-shirt...?

I love u...pls pls pls pls

[ANR Impex]

Encountered a few times of engine oil requiring to top up after some time. Most recently being a few weeks ago a friend on an R1 '03 had an oil change to Maxima 10w40 before the track day & it didn't last. At the start of the 5 lap race, his FI light had already come on indicating a low level of engine oil. As you have said, maybe it's just only 1 or 2 oddball there. Maybe its just within our own bikes there. No offence brudder was just relating some experience & I apologise if you feel offended. Peace.

 

Why is there apology Shark? I am here to help users find the best Maxima product for their needs, and I recognize that there may be some unique issues in a particular bike.

 

03' R1 is not recommended to use Extra 10W40, it should be Extra 15W50, or minimum Ultra 5W50. I don't even recommend the 5W50 to the 04/06 R1. Some bikes consume oil after some wear and tear or from design issue, especially at the piston rings where it is the main culprit of oil escaping other than a leak. There are brand new bikes that consume oil, latest models too. The bike will then consume oil regardless, BUT, a thick grade helps with the ring seal.

 

You do ride the CBR RR right? Do not compare to R1 03, they are very different machines when it comes to optimum viscosity. Please check with Tashi and fellow CBR riders to confirm what I say.

 

If you're using the Extra 10W40 and experiencing oil loss, it is really very close to a 10W30, so you see why I tend to shy away from recommending this grade except to bike models that owners repeatedly feedback to be good.

 

If you PM me your oil use history (what brand u use, what viscosity grade, how long it felt good for you, any other problems encountered), I can give you a good estimate of what Maxima product will work for you.

[WW]

sonni side track abit...WW can consider tis round print PINK t-shirt...?

I love u...pls pls pls pls

 

NO PINK LAH, you want the logo to be pink , i can try lah. Polo-T pink, unless you provide your own.

[ANR Impex]

Of course i wont understand what ASTM, as you say i am not a ENGINEER, i work as a SAFETY personal. But that would applied to many here. As you say typical 10W50 is weak, that why i say the something is wrong with the world, cos since it weak, and the grade 10W50 is derived from DATASHEETS. Why would so many EO company still produce 10W50 grade EO since you say it a weak oil.

 

 

Simple, 10W50 is easy to stock and sell, won't give u terrible results but won't give u terrific results either. It is sitting on the fence viscosity thru the life of the oil. Elf 10W50, 1 grade fully syn, Motorex 10W50, Castrol Power Racing 10W50 1 grade sell whole SGP.

 

Motul: 7100 10W40/20W50 300V 5W40/10W40/15W50

Maxima: Extra 10W40/15W50 Ultra 5W40/5W50

 

The performance guys recognize that viscosity is KEY to performance, making it right and making it TOUGH is what they do, so they produce a range. However, layman dunno what they doing, often make the wrong conclusion after 1 use of a wrong grade.

 

The details are in the datasheet, is it my fault if u can't understand? If it is a Maxima product, I will try to explain, this is customer service.

 

So ok, your bike won't breakdown with more frequent change of an inferior oil, my bad for not understanding your england. But still, that bad advice as u spend more money changing more often.

[WW]

If you PM me your oil use history (what brand u use, what viscosity grade, how long it felt good for you, any other problems encountered), I can give you a good estimate of what Maxima product will work for you.

 

 

So in the end , you still need ppl butt dyno inorder to recommend EO??? I thought your data should have cover all these?? Sorry , i not engineer, i dun know much.

But one more question, so when 5W50 break down, what will it become?? 0W40??

[WW]

Simple, 10W50 is easy to stock and sell, won't give u terrible results but won't give u terrific results either. It is sitting on the fence viscosity thru the life of the oil. Elf 10W50, 1 grade fully syn, Motorex 10W50, Castrol Power Racing 10W50 1 grade sell whole SGP.

 

Motul: 7100 10W40/20W50 300V 5W40/10W40/15W50

Maxima: Extra 10W40/15W50 Ultra 5W40/5W50

 

The performance guys recognize that viscosity is KEY to performance, making it right and making it TOUGH is what they do, so they produce a range. However, layman dunno what they doing, often make the wrong conclusion after 1 use of a wrong grade.

 

The details are in the datasheet, is it my fault if u can't understand? If it is a Maxima product, I will try to explain, this is customer service.

 

So ok, your bike won't breakdown with more frequent change of an inferior oil, my bad for not understanding your england. But still, that bad advice as u spend more money changing more often.

 

Thanks for explaining to a noob like mi. But for elf i dun know, but for motorex, there is not just one type of EO　which you claim only 10W50. Maybe you should do your data finding first. And so you are saying 5W50 are more long lasting than the 2 brand i am using?? I change EO　every 5000km or when it reach 3month old, so by using 5W50 i can increase the leught of use??

And also i not a performance guy, and since you say 10W50 won't give u terrible results but won't give u terrific results , i believe that is more than good enough for those non performance guy to use　like mi.

[Aie]

Design by you guys. Pls try not to give mi design of very big size and many many colour, We try to stick it to front logo, and a rear logo. Front logo should not measure bigger than 8cmX8cm , Rear logo should not be bigger than 8cmX15cm.

After design pls send it to mi, and we have a poll to chose which desgin to be make. End date 17th of aug for design, collection of $$$ by end of aug. And, if only every have pay.

Polo-T material, dry-fix. Size range from XXXS-XXXL

 

NO PINK NO PINK NO PINK

 

1)CBR379

2)Johan

3)siaopig, 1 L ( name put Nic ), 1 M ( Name put Adeline )

4)diablo_gixxer M (name put nick)

5)kOpi - M

6)ninjaboi9 - L (name put RiC)

7)J73 - M

8)Jonse - M

9)dirtbag - 2 x "S" (1 put nick, another blank,only the shirt)

10) Murphy - 1 x XL (Name put MURPHY LIP)[Pls dun get the spelling wrong again]

11) Maverick001 - 1 x Size "S"

12) Mengz_Zai - 1 x XL /put nick on one side and Suzuki K5 1000 on the the other side

13) ah-seng - xxl

14) Kori - 1 x M put nick one side K6 1000 on the other

15) Kori - 1 x L put Raymond one side K6 1000 on the other

16) Punk - 1 M one side punk number 30 on the other

17) sky_walker - L No nick

18) Sky_walker - XXS No Nick

19) Kiamquay - 1 x L (no nick)

20) Gixxer24 - 1 XL ,1 side Nick,e other side Suzuki K51000

21) Skye - 1 xs ,1 side Nick,e other side Suzuki K51000

22) Yongster - 1 x L, put nick on 1 side

23) Gixxertan - 1 x M (No Nick)

24) Aie - 1 x XL (Nick : AIE)

[Grave65]

Last Sunday I saw a Ducati 1098 at Changi ... turning slowly into a carpark ... Yesterday I went to Excel at Kaki Bukit ... saw a 03R1 with loads

of accessories ... the best part is the front ohlins fork arm is mounted with radial type brake caliper ... BUT the bike is selling @ 19k

 

caliper and forks will be retailing at $4k+$2.8K.

so ard 50% of its mkt value...

bike shd cost $3.4K more than mkt rate

 

for 03 bike...

it shb b ard $17.5k inclusive of all transfers... but based on the 7% GST ... bike shd not go over $18k OTR to be a reasonable sale

[OldTree998]

caliper and forks will be retailing at $4k+$2.8K.

so ard 50% of its mkt value...

bike shd cost $3.4K more than mkt rate

 

for 03 bike...

it shb b ard $17.5k inclusive of all transfers... but based on the 7% GST ... bike shd not go over $18k OTR to be a reasonable sale

 

 

 

The bike comes with OZ racing rims , front & rear ohlins suspension ,

ohlins steering damper , front & rear BRAKING brake disc , Lightech rear set , Akrapovic slip-on, YEC harness and ECU , PC3 , YEC throttle body control smog off kit , Factory Pro V.stacks , original single seat cowling , Graves AIS smog off plate , hi-comp gasket , racing high-lift cams , cam sprocket changed to adjust valve advance and retard timing , quite a number of carbon bits and other accessories... Some of the above mentioned can be seen , externally .. except those inside ones, he say I hear so dun know true or not ... all the stock items will be given also ...

[Guest yanani18&27]

hi yanani yesterday i saw u with your friend at JB immigration at about 12+am.

 

really ah

than y never call me

[iffy]

 

 

Guys look at this, see how lucky we are >.

[shaunz]

The bike comes with OZ racing rims , front & rear ohlins suspension ,

ohlins steering damper , front & rear BRAKING brake disc , Lightech rear set , Akrapovic slip-on, YEC harness and ECU , PC3 , YEC throttle body control smog off kit , Factory Pro V.stacks , original single seat cowling , Graves AIS smog off plate , hi-comp gasket , racing high-lift cams , cam sprocket changed to adjust valve advance and retard timing , quite a number of carbon bits and other accessories... Some of the above mentioned can be seen , externally .. except those inside ones, he say I hear so dun know true or not ... all the stock items will be given also ...

 

milan buy this one, think no one can catch him liao

[bsk_R103]

The bike comes with OZ racing rims , front & rear ohlins suspension ,

ohlins steering damper , front & rear BRAKING brake disc , Lightech rear set , Akrapovic slip-on, YEC harness and ECU , PC3 , YEC throttle body control smog off kit , Factory Pro V.stacks , original single seat cowling , Graves AIS smog off plate , hi-comp gasket , racing high-lift cams , cam sprocket changed to adjust valve advance and retard timing , quite a number of carbon bits and other accessories... Some of the above mentioned can be seen , externally .. except those inside ones, he say I hear so dun know true or not ... all the stock items will be given also ...

 

yo dude..very long never ask you things liao hor..

here's one..

the rear sub of our bike feels soft and when go over a bump, not very stable

then bring go bike shop to check and they say oil leakage

to change and rectify prob need to put bike there for bout 3-4days and costs bout $380 leh..

[bsk_R103]

milan buy this one, think no one can catch him liao

 

not even Rossi..?

[shaunz]

not even Rossi..?

 

not even rossi

[OldTree998]

milan buy this one, think no one can catch him liao

 

 

that bike I think with all this add-ons can only be on par with a k5/6G1 ... low end torque will be sacrificed also I suppose ...

[WW]

 

 

Guys look at this, see how lucky we are >.

 

That rd is good for offensive riding sia.

[OldTree998]

yo dude..very long never ask you things liao hor..

here's one..

the rear sub of our bike feels soft and when go over a bump, not very stable

then bring go bike shop to check and they say oil leakage

to change and rectify prob need to put bike there for bout 3-4days and costs bout $380 leh..

 

 

where u got your rear shock checked ? Did they show you evidence of oil leakage ? Your pre-load set to the max already ? My feels ok , stiffness still ok .. pre-load still got 3 clicks more to reach max ...

 

3-4 days to rebuild a stock shock ? Put there they meddle with and change your bike parts ... scarly take bike ... become carburettor 03R1 !!

[PUNK]

That rd is good for offensive riding sia.

 

[Grave65]

The bike comes with OZ racing rims , front & rear ohlins suspension ,

ohlins steering damper , front & rear BRAKING brake disc , Lightech rear set , Akrapovic slip-on, YEC harness and ECU , PC3 , YEC throttle body control smog off kit , Factory Pro V.stacks , original single seat cowling , Graves AIS smog off plate , hi-comp gasket , racing high-lift cams , cam sprocket changed to adjust valve advance and retard timing , quite a number of carbon bits and other accessories... Some of the above mentioned can be seen , externally .. except those inside ones, he say I hear so dun know true or not ... all the stock items will be given also ...

 

i tink i noe the owner ... no. plate 29?

std be low milliage ... bike was parked at vector1 for almost 1yr +

 

yeah, its worth ard that price ... shd hv ard 175 on the rear..

it also have a close ratio YEC gear box + forged pistons.

[Aie]

Guys look at this, see how lucky we are >.

That one no traffic laws lah. Anything goes...

[kinwei]

But at least you can see that everyone drive defensively as in, if they need to stop or give way to avoid collision, they will. It unlike in sillypore, who dares win, and the sad fact is everyone like to dare untill things happen.