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Posted

mine reaching 28K but i hvnt do yet ... :sweat:

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o22/fba8485c/n687922172_4603.jpg

万般带ä¸èµ° ... 唯有业éšèº«

Posted

You'll have difficulty finding a shop that is 'cheap and good'. Class 2 bike bro.. where got cheap... :angel:

 

how hard is it to do, I used to adjust them in my car, easy feeler guages and a screw driver, anyone have the service manual?

 

Oh ok, I have it... looks pretty easy step by step instructions (look at 600K7) IM me if you are interested in a copy?

 

Cheers

 

Here's the text, much easier to understand with the pictures...

VALVE CLEARANCE

• Remove the right under cowling. (8-5)

• Lift and support the fuel tank. (5-3)

• Remove the air cleaner box. (5-14)

• Disconnect the CMP sensor coupler 1.

• Remove the PAIR control solenoid valve 2.

• Remove the spark plugs. (2-5)

• Loosen the throttle body clamp screws at the intake pipe side.

• Move the throttle body assembly.

• Move the radiator forward. (6-10)

• Remove the regulator/rectifier and horn. (3-6)

• Remove the cylinder head cover. (3-14)

The valve clearance specification is different for intake and

exhaust valves. Valve clearance must be checked and adjusted,

1) at the time of periodic inspection, 2) when the valve mechanism

is serviced, and 3) when the camshafts are removed for

servicing.

 Valve clearance (when cold):

Standard: IN. : 0.08 – 0.18 mm (0.003 – 0.007 in)

EX. : 0.18 – 0.28 mm (0.007 – 0.011 in)

NOTE:

* The cam must be at positions, A or B, when checking or

adjusting the valve clearance. Clearance readings should not

be taken with the cam in any other position than these two

positions.

* The clearance specification is for COLD state.

* To turn the crankshaft for clearance checking, be sure to use a

wrench, and rotate in the normal running direction. All spark

plugs should be removed.

• Remove the valve timing inspection cap 1.

Turn the crankshaft to bring the line A on the CKP sensor

rotor to the rib B behind the clutch cover and also to bring the

notches A on the left ends of both camshafts (Ex. and In.) to

the positions as shown.

• In this condition, read the valve clearance at the valves B (In.

and Ex. of No. 4 cylinder, Ex. of No. 3 and In. of No. 2).

• If the clearance is out of specification, adjust the clearance.

(2-9)

09900-20803: Thickness gauge

• Turn the crankshaft 360 degrees (one rotation) to bring the

line on the CKP sensor rotor to the index mark of valve timing

inspection hole and also to bring the notches A to the position

as shown.

• Read the clearance at the rest of the valves C and adjust the

clearance if necessary. (2-9)

Front

Cam position

Notch A position

Exhaust Camshaft Intake Camshaft

B ← Front ← Front

C ← Front ← Front

Front

VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT

The clearance is adjusted by replacing the existing tappet shim

by a thicker or thinner shim.

• Remove the intake or exhaust camshafts. (3-14)

• Remove the tappet and shim by fingers or magnetic hand.

• Check the figures printed on the shim. These figures indicate

the thickness of the shim, as illustrated.

• Select a replacement shim that will provide a clearance within

the specified range. For the purpose of this adjustment, a total

of 21 sizes of tappet shim are available ranging from 1.20 to

2.20 mm in steps of 0.05 mm. Fit the selected shim to the

valve stem end, with numbers toward tappet. Be sure to

check shim size with micrometer to ensure its size. Refer to

the tappet shim selection table (2-10 and -11) for details.

NOTE:

* Be sure to apply engine oil to tappet shim top and bottom

faces.

* When seating the tappet shim, be sure the figure printed surface

faces the tappet.

NOTE:

Reinstall the camshafts in the specified manner. (3-92)

• After replacing the tappet shim and camshafts, rotate the

engine so that the tappet is depressed fully. This will squeeze

out oil trapped between the shim and the tappet that could

cause an incorrect measurement. Then check the clearance

again to confirm that it is within the specified range.

It doesn't matter what the question is, the answer is more power!

Posted
i did mine at 20K before according to manual....:cheeky:

 

 

 

... wasted my money oni, no difference...:sian:

 

 

 

... hahaha... :thumb:

 

You know wat the funny part i did. 10 k i went to do my valve clearance, and my Mech ask me to go back home ..haha!! I said "what if i do earlier than expected?" they also told me the same thing as you, NO Difference..

 

:dozed:

2002 - 2003 Yahama Tzr 125 (FH1687Z)

2003 - 2005 Honda Sp 150 (FR9672K)

2005 - 2007 Honda Cbr FireBlade 400 (FN543E)

2007 - 2010 Suzuki Gsx-R K7 1000 (AU222D)

2010 - 2011 Honda Civic FD2 (S*******)

 

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j165/honam24/Bikini%20Bike%20Wash/My%20Bike/IMG_2304copy.jpg

All the way across the board with no limitation

Posted
You know wat the funny part i did. 10 k i went to do my valve clearance, and my Mech ask me to go back home ..haha!! I said "what if i do earlier than expected?" they also told me the same thing as you, NO Difference..

 

:dozed:

 

So we all learned something new today arh?? :cheeky:

 

I did mine at 50,000, the shim was slightly out. My frens R1 06 did at the same mileage, the mech says a lot of his shims was out and a lot of yamahas encounter that. But his yammy, after come out from shop...feels like a brand new bike :giddy:

:slapforehead:
Posted
how hard is it to do, I used to adjust them in my car, easy feeler guages and a screw driver, anyone have the service manual?

 

Oh ok, I have it... looks pretty easy step by step instructions (look at 600K7) IM me if you are interested in a copy? .

 

heh.. thanks bro... but knowing me... if i DIY i think my bike will run backwards instead of forwards after that :cry:

:slapforehead:
Posted

deleted 10 char

FU2***L NSR 150 SP Pramac (RIP)

FBB 1***H Spark 135 Lmt Ed (RIP)

FZ4***B Aprilia RS125 (RIP)

FT3***J S4 Spec1 (RIP)

FG7***E RXZ (RIP)

FBD***** YZF-R1 (RIP)

FBD8***D YZF-R6 (RIP)

Posted
:eek: :eek: :eek:

 

 

now ...my hand again.....:(

 

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q91/hellsfury31/bonerboy.jpg

FU2***L NSR 150 SP Pramac (RIP)

FBB 1***H Spark 135 Lmt Ed (RIP)

FZ4***B Aprilia RS125 (RIP)

FT3***J S4 Spec1 (RIP)

FG7***E RXZ (RIP)

FBD***** YZF-R1 (RIP)

FBD8***D YZF-R6 (RIP)

Posted
how hard is it to do, I used to adjust them in my car, easy feeler guages and a screw driver, anyone have the service manual?

 

Oh ok, I have it... looks pretty easy step by step instructions (look at 600K7) IM me if you are interested in a copy?

 

Cheers

 

Here's the text, much easier to understand with the pictures...

VALVE CLEARANCE

• Remove the right under cowling. (8-5)

• Lift and support the fuel tank. (5-3)

• Remove the air cleaner box. (5-14)

• Disconnect the CMP sensor coupler 1.

• Remove the PAIR control solenoid valve 2.

• Remove the spark plugs. (2-5)

• Loosen the throttle body clamp screws at the intake pipe side.

• Move the throttle body assembly.

• Move the radiator forward. (6-10)

• Remove the regulator/rectifier and horn. (3-6)

• Remove the cylinder head cover. (3-14)

The valve clearance specification is different for intake and

exhaust valves. Valve clearance must be checked and adjusted,

1) at the time of periodic inspection, 2) when the valve mechanism

is serviced, and 3) when the camshafts are removed for

servicing.

 Valve clearance (when cold):

Standard: IN. : 0.08 – 0.18 mm (0.003 – 0.007 in)

EX. : 0.18 – 0.28 mm (0.007 – 0.011 in)

NOTE:

* The cam must be at positions, A or B, when checking or

adjusting the valve clearance. Clearance readings should not

be taken with the cam in any other position than these two

positions.

* The clearance specification is for COLD state.

* To turn the crankshaft for clearance checking, be sure to use a

wrench, and rotate in the normal running direction. All spark

plugs should be removed.

• Remove the valve timing inspection cap 1.

Turn the crankshaft to bring the line A on the CKP sensor

rotor to the rib B behind the clutch cover and also to bring the

notches A on the left ends of both camshafts (Ex. and In.) to

the positions as shown.

• In this condition, read the valve clearance at the valves B (In.

and Ex. of No. 4 cylinder, Ex. of No. 3 and In. of No. 2).

• If the clearance is out of specification, adjust the clearance.

(2-9)

09900-20803: Thickness gauge

• Turn the crankshaft 360 degrees (one rotation) to bring the

line on the CKP sensor rotor to the index mark of valve timing

inspection hole and also to bring the notches A to the position

as shown.

• Read the clearance at the rest of the valves C and adjust the

clearance if necessary. (2-9)

Front

Cam position

Notch A position

Exhaust Camshaft Intake Camshaft

B ← Front ← Front

C ← Front ← Front

Front

VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT

The clearance is adjusted by replacing the existing tappet shim

by a thicker or thinner shim.

• Remove the intake or exhaust camshafts. (3-14)

• Remove the tappet and shim by fingers or magnetic hand.

• Check the figures printed on the shim. These figures indicate

the thickness of the shim, as illustrated.

• Select a replacement shim that will provide a clearance within

the specified range. For the purpose of this adjustment, a total

of 21 sizes of tappet shim are available ranging from 1.20 to

2.20 mm in steps of 0.05 mm. Fit the selected shim to the

valve stem end, with numbers toward tappet. Be sure to

check shim size with micrometer to ensure its size. Refer to

the tappet shim selection table (2-10 and -11) for details.

NOTE:

* Be sure to apply engine oil to tappet shim top and bottom

faces.

* When seating the tappet shim, be sure the figure printed surface

faces the tappet.

NOTE:

Reinstall the camshafts in the specified manner. (3-92)

• After replacing the tappet shim and camshafts, rotate the

engine so that the tappet is depressed fully. This will squeeze

out oil trapped between the shim and the tappet that could

cause an incorrect measurement. Then check the clearance

again to confirm that it is within the specified range.

 

Woah. MASTER SIFU of the GSXRs. :bow:

 

sraad 9pm at arab st, kampong glam cafe..

 

sorry bros, will be joining u peeps later.

Relax!

Posted
So we all learned something new today arh?? :cheeky:

 

I did mine at 50,000, the shim was slightly out. My frens R1 06 did at the same mileage, the mech says a lot of his shims was out and a lot of yamahas encounter that. But his yammy, after come out from shop...feels like a brand new bike :giddy:

 

Ya correct, from the 04 models they encounter this problems. i heard form my mech also.

2002 - 2003 Yahama Tzr 125 (FH1687Z)

2003 - 2005 Honda Sp 150 (FR9672K)

2005 - 2007 Honda Cbr FireBlade 400 (FN543E)

2007 - 2010 Suzuki Gsx-R K7 1000 (AU222D)

2010 - 2011 Honda Civic FD2 (S*******)

 

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j165/honam24/Bikini%20Bike%20Wash/My%20Bike/IMG_2304copy.jpg

All the way across the board with no limitation

Posted
sorry bros, will be joining u peeps later.

 

:faint: :faint: gixxer boss is red_rose ler..not me...:thumb:

 

You the director ma.. dun be shy la...

2002 - 2003 Yahama Tzr 125 (FH1687Z)

2003 - 2005 Honda Sp 150 (FR9672K)

2005 - 2007 Honda Cbr FireBlade 400 (FN543E)

2007 - 2010 Suzuki Gsx-R K7 1000 (AU222D)

2010 - 2011 Honda Civic FD2 (S*******)

 

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j165/honam24/Bikini%20Bike%20Wash/My%20Bike/IMG_2304copy.jpg

All the way across the board with no limitation

Posted

so is e melvin pipe sold yet..saw it tat day at bikewerks worth it lor..hahaha..rite marcus..

Bu11y me or i bu11y u

 

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s109/edalpha/DSC00291-1.jpg http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s109/edalpha/DSC00245-1-1.jpg

Posted

i also very song....

 

bike kene c28 error code - stva problem.... stil trying to figure out for the past 2 weeks.... cb!!! :angry:

 

secondary throttle butterfly valved never opened... bike no go above 8k rpm..

one of wire never give any ohm reading... till now scratched head.. dont want send to bike shop, wait kene come out $$!!!

Bikes

1) Honda Super4 SpecII -> 12/03 to 03/06

2) Kawa Z1000 03 -> 03/06 to 03/07

3) Honda Super4 VtecI -> 07/06 to 04/07

4) Suzy GSX-R1000 K7 -> 04/07 to 07/11

5) Husky SMR510 08 -> 08/09 to 08/15

6) Yamy Spark135 07 -> 10/07 to Currently

7) Triumph Tiger Explorer -> 05/12 to 05/18

8) Husky FE350 -> 12/15 to Currently

Posted
i also very song....

 

bike kene c28 error code - stva problem.... stil trying to figure out for the past 2 weeks.... cb!!! :angry:

 

secondary throttle butterfly valved never opened... bike no go above 8k rpm..

one of wire never give any ohm reading... till now scratched head.. dont want send to bike shop, wait kene come out $$!!!

no choice de bro..if reali nd to go bike shop or fork out money..hehe

songboh r6 beng, kena tps? i very song kena batt and rectifier. i bet u are song also!

 

song..but stil ok den u la..i believe my tps still cheaper den ur rectifier n batt..haha..u buy e melvin arrow la..can buy de..buy u wan look den hard la..cos gt scare on it..hehe...

Bu11y me or i bu11y u

 

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s109/edalpha/DSC00291-1.jpg http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s109/edalpha/DSC00245-1-1.jpg

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