The GSXR 600,750 & 1000 Hangout. Where All GSXR Riders Chill And Gather!!

[ArroW]

yep track-ed today. yeah syed also told us that they are closed for tml... something about malay new year...

 

Any idea they r operating next sunday??

 

Anyone going too?

[fufu]

Pasir Ris bro... urself?

 

bendemeer but i work near u ^^

[fufu]

Wah Fufu ... u take out silencer and use mid pipes... isnt that very loud?

 

yeah i at work place today nothing to do so i take out and test.. wow its nice ^^

[benson]

Hi guys, would like to share 2 diys I've done recently. Cos not bike shops not good, but they dun do 100% perfect like every1 would to their own bikes. Aft I done it myself, definately feels better den when I left the bike shop.....

 

Brake bleeding. This is a good diy, even if ur current setup feels gd, I can guarantee u that aft u diy, it feels better!

Parts needed:

 

1- Brake fluid. For me, I got the motul rbf600 dot 4 500ml. It got a gd wet n dry boiling point.

 

2- 1 X 8mm spanner.

 

3- Air tubes for those fish pumps. 1 metre will be more den enough.

 

4- 1 X sicssors

 

5- 1 X container, something like the standard size peanut butter one.

 

6- Blue tac

 

7- Water

 

1st of all, find the container, punch a hole on the top of the cover jus enough to fit the air tube in. I used a screw driver n hammer it, but rem to start wid a thinner one, aft the hole is punched in, den continue wid a thicker one till u get the correct size.

Go to ur bike, secure the container wid the blue tac on the floor jus at the right side of ur front wheel. Slot the air tube into the hole n push it till it touch the bottom of the container. Fill container wid brake fluid, ard 1/5 of the whole container can liao. Bring the other end of the tube towards ur brake pump, cut it off there n can start bleedin the brakes. U dowan the tube to be too long or too short, leave abit of slack n cut there.

I suggest bleed the master cyl 1st, den the left caliper, right caliper, den back to the m/c again.

Take out the rubber cap that cover the bleeder, force the air tube over it n push all the way in. Dun worry if it seems like too small can't fit. As long as u push hard, cfm can go in. Now, pump the lever few times n den hold there, continue to appy pressure, use the spanner n open the bleeder, at this point, ur lever will lose pressure n goes all the way to the handle bar,close the bleeder n pump the lever few times till u get pressure again. wad we wan here is, open the bleeder so that lever goes in, but close the bleeder b4 it touches the handle bar. few tries n u'll get it. Now, this is call bleeding, but how to know when to stop? Look at wad comes out of the bleeder into the air tube, u dowan bubbles, just pure flow of brake fluid. For me, since oredi spent so much time, I just pump/bleed alot times n waste all the fluid but I'm sure no air in the lines liao. Do this for the m/c, 2 calipers den back to the m/c again. Always rinse wid water aft 1 part is complete b4 movin to the other part, u dowan to spoil ur paint. Also, make sure brake fluid filler container(the round thing on the right handle bar) is always fill wid fresh fluid to max, min that allow is above the min line. otherwise air gets suck in again den have to start all over again.

Aft u r done, top up to max line n throw the fluid away, u dowan to use it again cos its hygroscopic.

DIY urself n let me know how u feel.

[fufu]

Hi guys, would like to share 2 diys I've done recently. Cos not bike shops not good, but they dun do 100% perfect like every1 would to their own bikes. Aft I done it myself, definately feels better den when I left the bike shop.....

 

Brake bleeding. This is a good diy, even if ur current setup feels gd, I can guarantee u that aft u diy, it feels better!

Parts needed:

 

1- Brake fluid. For me, I got the motul rbf600 dot 4 500ml. It got a gd wet n dry boiling point.

 

2- 1 X 8mm spanner.

 

3- Air tubes for those fish pumps. 1 metre will be more den enough.

 

4- 1 X sicssors

 

5- 1 X container, something like the standard size peanut butter one.

 

6- Blue tac

 

7- Water

 

1st of all, find the container, punch a hole on the top of the cover jus enough to fit the air tube in. I used a screw driver n hammer it, but rem to start wid a thinner one, aft the hole is punched in, den continue wid a thicker one till u get the correct size.

Go to ur bike, secure the container wid the blue tac on the floor jus at the right side of ur front wheel. Slot the air tube into the hole n push it till it touch the bottom of the container. Fill container wid brake fluid, ard 1/5 of the whole container can liao. Bring the other end of the tube towards ur brake pump, cut it off there n can start bleedin the brakes. U dowan the tube to be too long or too short, leave abit of slack n cut there.

I suggest bleed the master cyl 1st, den the left caliper, right caliper, den back to the m/c again.

Take out the rubber cap that cover the bleeder, force the air tube over it n push all the way in. Dun worry if it seems like too small can't fit. As long as u push hard, cfm can go in. Now, pump the lever few times n den hold there, continue to appy pressure, use the spanner n open the bleeder, at this point, ur lever will lose pressure n goes all the way to the handle bar,close the bleeder n pump the lever few times till u get pressure again. wad we wan here is, open the bleeder so that lever goes in, but close the bleeder b4 it touches the handle bar. few tries n u'll get it. Now, this is call bleeding, but how to know when to stop? Look at wad comes out of the bleeder into the air tube, u dowan bubbles, just pure flow of brake fluid. For me, since oredi spent so much time, I just pump/bleed alot times n waste all the fluid but I'm sure no air in the lines liao. Do this for the m/c, 2 calipers den back to the m/c again. Always rinse wid water aft 1 part is complete b4 movin to the other part, u dowan to spoil ur paint. Also, make sure brake fluid filler container(the round thing on the right handle bar) is always fill wid fresh fluid to max, min that allow is above the min line. otherwise air gets suck in again den have to start all over again.

Aft u r done, top up to max line n throw the fluid away, u dowan to use it again cos its hygroscopic.

DIY urself n let me know how u feel.

practical will make ppl who are noobs clearer cause i can understand wat u saying but dunno how to apply it lol!

 

great info btw

[benson]

2- OEM steering damper

 

If ur steering damper is too soft for u or its movement is not smooth, this is a gd diy thats worth the time.

 

Parts needed:

 

1- Allen keys (2 Sizes)

 

2- Syringe

 

3- Fork oil, I got the maxima 10wt fork oil. not bad, if u like stiffer, consider the 15wt. if not, 7/7.5wt. for 5wt, might as well dun change...

 

4- 13mm box spanner

 

5- 12mm spanner.

 

6- 8mm spanner.

 

To remover the damper, u need the 12mm n 13mm spanner n remove the part attached to ur left handle. But the clutch cable and the adjusting ring n clip is in the way, use the 8mm spanner n loosen the clutch clip on, dun remove it, jus loosen n wriggle it out of the way.

Den us allen key n romove the screw on the other end n den head back hm. I do it at the kitchen basin cos quite messy.

At 1 side of the damper, u'll see 2 small allen key screws, remover them both n pump the damper till u get all the oil out. Now, use the syringe n pump new oil into 1 of the hole till u see the other hole ooze oil out. den u pump n pump n pump till shiok, den drain out all the oil again. This way, u rinse all the old oil out. Den u hold the damper so that the 2 holes face the ceiling. Always maintain this position till the 2 screws r back on tight, otherwise air will go in.

Now, use the syringe n pump oil into 1 hole till the other ooze out again. Put the syringe 1 side. If u pump into the left hole, pull the damper rod towards ur right fast, den push it VERY slowly left, u will see bubbles come out or oil shoot out. When pull right, make sure there's oil full on the left hole. if it goes down, top up wid the syringe, but this time not poke the whole syringe into the hole. Hold it on top the hole n drip it in till it over flow, pull to right fast, den left slow n watch the bubbles come out. repeat till no bubbles, den repeat 2 to 3 times again jus to be sure. rem the right, top up by dripping, den slow left.

Now, put back the small screw into the left hole n work the right one. Right side is opposite, pull to left fast, push to right slow. Do the drip top up n clear all bubbles, den put back the right screw. I'm 99% sure most will not get all the air out, to test, pull n push left n right, END to END, if its not consistant pressure or its progressive, den take out the left screw, ignore the right screw n pull, drip, push again. aft this, screw back, remove the other screw, pull, drip, push till no more bubbles, screw back. usually the inconsistant part will be when the damper rod is push till almost the end when left about 1 cm. Work out slowly n alot of times, definately will be consistant thruout the stroke be it left or right. aft this, clean out wid mama lemon n sponge 1st, den use degreaser. I use the ows degreaser n it makes wonder. Den fix back the damper n go for a ride.

 

practical will make ppl who are noobs clearer cause i can understand wat u saying but dunno how to apply it lol!

 

great info btw

 

 

If timing is just nice, I dun mind a meet up wid all u guys here n show how to do.

My 1st time doing it was a mess, brake fluid here n there, fingers cut by tools, etc.....

[jonse]

Hey guys...K6 1000....only have 1 exhaust? or 2 exhaust?

 

1 or 2 also hav... cause kopi_jac got 2...

lolz

[jonse]

Hey guys...K6 1000....only have 1 exhaust? or 2 exhaust?

 

1 or 2 also hav... cause kopi_jac got 2...

lolz

[NoobGixxer]

1 or 2 also hav... cause kopi_jac got 2...

lolz

 

haha..so sld say 1side or 2 side lor ...kopi is 1side 2 pipe...

[EvilGixxer]

Any idea they r operating next sunday??

 

Anyone going too?

 

not sure, its best to visit their webbie or just call syed better.

[singkiwi]

I see i see...Actually i'm aiming for a 848 probably end next year...Gonna finish my current course first before deciding..

 

you may want to keep a look out for a secondhand 1098, I think there's going to be some cheap ones with the release of the 1198

[bsk_R103]

2- OEM steering damper

 

If ur steering damper is too soft for u or its movement is not smooth, this is a gd diy thats worth the time.

 

Parts needed:

 

1- Allen keys (2 Sizes)

 

2- Syringe

 

3- Fork oil, I got the maxima 10wt fork oil. not bad, if u like stiffer, consider the 15wt. if not, 7/7.5wt. for 5wt, might as well dun change...

 

4- 13mm box spanner

 

5- 12mm spanner.

 

6- 8mm spanner.

 

To remover the damper, u need the 12mm n 13mm spanner n remove the part attached to ur left handle. But the clutch cable and the adjusting ring n clip is in the way, use the 8mm spanner n loosen the clutch clip on, dun remove it, jus loosen n wriggle it out of the way.

Den us allen key n romove the screw on the other end n den head back hm. I do it at the kitchen basin cos quite messy.

At 1 side of the damper, u'll see 2 small allen key screws, remover them both n pump the damper till u get all the oil out. Now, use the syringe n pump new oil into 1 of the hole till u see the other hole ooze oil out. den u pump n pump n pump till shiok, den drain out all the oil again. This way, u rinse all the old oil out. Den u hold the damper so that the 2 holes face the ceiling. Always maintain this position till the 2 screws r back on tight, otherwise air will go in.

Now, use the syringe n pump oil into 1 hole till the other ooze out again. Put the syringe 1 side. If u pump into the left hole, pull the damper rod towards ur right fast, den push it VERY slowly left, u will see bubbles come out or oil shoot out. When pull right, make sure there's oil full on the left hole. if it goes down, top up wid the syringe, but this time not poke the whole syringe into the hole. Hold it on top the hole n drip it in till it over flow, pull to right fast, den left slow n watch the bubbles come out. repeat till no bubbles, den repeat 2 to 3 times again jus to be sure. rem the right, top up by dripping, den slow left.

Now, put back the small screw into the left hole n work the right one. Right side is opposite, pull to left fast, push to right slow. Do the drip top up n clear all bubbles, den put back the right screw. I'm 99% sure most will not get all the air out, to test, pull n push left n right, END to END, if its not consistant pressure or its progressive, den take out the left screw, ignore the right screw n pull, drip, push again. aft this, screw back, remove the other screw, pull, drip, push till no more bubbles, screw back. usually the inconsistant part will be when the damper rod is push till almost the end when left about 1 cm. Work out slowly n alot of times, definately will be consistant thruout the stroke be it left or right. aft this, clean out wid mama lemon n sponge 1st, den use degreaser. I use the ows degreaser n it makes wonder. Den fix back the damper n go for a ride.

 

 

 

 

If timing is just nice, I dun mind a meet up wid all u guys here n show how to do.

My 1st time doing it was a mess, brake fluid here n there, fingers cut by tools, etc.....

 

 

give you a few more years think you can open a bike shop in Kallang area liao..the exact location think you can guess where rite..?

[OldTree998]

thanks full carbon end cans

 

i went hkl with the mindset of getting akra o ne.. but they no stock liao then ah xiong ask me look at leo vince then i "watever la just buy" lol

 

 

Oh so u're FuFu .. I was at HKL-Unity on Friday also .. Saw u and your girlfriend there .. your thick stack of 50 dollars note caught my most attention .. Haha no la , nice bike there u have .. Do join us for a ride soon

[OldTree998]

It was very nice meeting you guys

Oh so u're the R6 chap hor .. and Nut is R1 chap with Bitubo rear absorber ..

Nice meeting u both , we'll go touring at PG circuit again one day ..

ya fun, thrill, excitment

Ya really thrilling .. all thanks to the BMW rider , I nearly crash with him ..

 

So Bro lo-on when is our next trip ?

[seb9312]

just wondering if the yamaha yzf r125 is out in singapore already? saw videos on youtube bout the bike and it's awesome

[fufu]

Oh so u're FuFu .. I was at HKL-Unity on Friday also .. Saw u and your girlfriend there .. your thick stack of 50 dollars note caught my most attention .. Haha no la , nice bike there u have .. Do join us for a ride soon

 

oh hi erm theres so many there which one are u lol i wanted to use cc but will get charge 3.5% which i feel bo hua so i go withdraw money from banks lo..

 

kinda worried with so much cash on hand lol:sweat:

[Guest NPNT]

just wondering if the yamaha yzf r125 is out in singapore already? saw videos on youtube bout the bike and it's awesome

out ady. buy while stocks last.

[Aie]

just wondering if the yamaha yzf r125 is out in singapore already? saw videos on youtube bout the bike and it's awesome

Yup. Chio bike. From far, looks like an R6...

[Shark]

the 1198 is already out right bro

[DeusExMachina]

just wondering if the yamaha yzf r125 is out in singapore already? saw videos on youtube bout the bike and it's awesome

 

It's a well dressed kup kia.

[MC28]

Officially on Ducs web thou..But still keen on a 848..

[benson]

It's a well dressed kup kia.

 

Agreed! I have a spare 135cc 4stroke cubkia n the power sucks!

[bsk_R103]

oh hi erm theres so many there which one are u lol i wanted to use cc but will get charge 3.5% which i feel bo hua so i go withdraw money from banks lo..

 

kinda worried with so much cash on hand lol:sweat:

 

your end-can looks wicked man..

[fufu]

your end-can looks wicked man..

 

just for posing

[TinyTanic]

good for p plater too....

 

Pasir Ris bro... urself?

 

wah bro u stay pasir ris??? can go KKFC together2 lah like tat... im also shy2 lah wanna meet the rider....

 

Hi guys, would like to share 2 diys I've done recently. Cos not bike shops not good, but they dun do 100% perfect like every1 would to their own bikes. Aft I done it myself, definately feels better den when I left the bike shop.....

 

Brake bleeding. This is a good diy, even if ur current setup feels gd, I can guarantee u that aft u diy, it feels better!

Parts needed:

 

1- Brake fluid. For me, I got the motul rbf600 dot 4 500ml. It got a gd wet n dry boiling point.

 

2- 1 X 8mm spanner.

 

3- Air tubes for those fish pumps. 1 metre will be more den enough.

 

4- 1 X sicssors

 

5- 1 X container, something like the standard size peanut butter one.

 

6- Blue tac

 

7- Water

 

1st of all, find the container, punch a hole on the top of the cover jus enough to fit the air tube in. I used a screw driver n hammer it, but rem to start wid a thinner one, aft the hole is punched in, den continue wid a thicker one till u get the correct size.

Go to ur bike, secure the container wid the blue tac on the floor jus at the right side of ur front wheel. Slot the air tube into the hole n push it till it touch the bottom of the container. Fill container wid brake fluid, ard 1/5 of the whole container can liao. Bring the other end of the tube towards ur brake pump, cut it off there n can start bleedin the brakes. U dowan the tube to be too long or too short, leave abit of slack n cut there.

I suggest bleed the master cyl 1st, den the left caliper, right caliper, den back to the m/c again.

Take out the rubber cap that cover the bleeder, force the air tube over it n push all the way in. Dun worry if it seems like too small can't fit. As long as u push hard, cfm can go in. Now, pump the lever few times n den hold there, continue to appy pressure, use the spanner n open the bleeder, at this point, ur lever will lose pressure n goes all the way to the handle bar,close the bleeder n pump the lever few times till u get pressure again. wad we wan here is, open the bleeder so that lever goes in, but close the bleeder b4 it touches the handle bar. few tries n u'll get it. Now, this is call bleeding, but how to know when to stop? Look at wad comes out of the bleeder into the air tube, u dowan bubbles, just pure flow of brake fluid. For me, since oredi spent so much time, I just pump/bleed alot times n waste all the fluid but I'm sure no air in the lines liao. Do this for the m/c, 2 calipers den back to the m/c again. Always rinse wid water aft 1 part is complete b4 movin to the other part, u dowan to spoil ur paint. Also, make sure brake fluid filler container(the round thing on the right handle bar) is always fill wid fresh fluid to max, min that allow is above the min line. otherwise air gets suck in again den have to start all over again.

Aft u r done, top up to max line n throw the fluid away, u dowan to use it again cos its hygroscopic.

DIY urself n let me know how u feel.

 

yeah tats true enuf... DIY is the best cos u feel so successful after each try... brake bleeding is soooo easy... cos im doing it every time when servicing land rover in the army camp... and currently im finding the good and performance brake line for my bike.... Will try DIY if possible.

 

2- OEM steering damper

 

If ur steering damper is too soft for u or its movement is not smooth, this is a gd diy thats worth the time.

 

Parts needed:

 

1- Allen keys (2 Sizes)

 

2- Syringe

 

3- Fork oil, I got the maxima 10wt fork oil. not bad, if u like stiffer, consider the 15wt. if not, 7/7.5wt. for 5wt, might as well dun change...

 

4- 13mm box spanner

 

5- 12mm spanner.

 

6- 8mm spanner.

 

To remover the damper, u need the 12mm n 13mm spanner n remove the part attached to ur left handle. But the clutch cable and the adjusting ring n clip is in the way, use the 8mm spanner n loosen the clutch clip on, dun remove it, jus loosen n wriggle it out of the way.

Den us allen key n romove the screw on the other end n den head back hm. I do it at the kitchen basin cos quite messy.

At 1 side of the damper, u'll see 2 small allen key screws, remover them both n pump the damper till u get all the oil out. Now, use the syringe n pump new oil into 1 of the hole till u see the other hole ooze oil out. den u pump n pump n pump till shiok, den drain out all the oil again. This way, u rinse all the old oil out. Den u hold the damper so that the 2 holes face the ceiling. Always maintain this position till the 2 screws r back on tight, otherwise air will go in.

Now, use the syringe n pump oil into 1 hole till the other ooze out again. Put the syringe 1 side. If u pump into the left hole, pull the damper rod towards ur right fast, den push it VERY slowly left, u will see bubbles come out or oil shoot out. When pull right, make sure there's oil full on the left hole. if it goes down, top up wid the syringe, but this time not poke the whole syringe into the hole. Hold it on top the hole n drip it in till it over flow, pull to right fast, den left slow n watch the bubbles come out. repeat till no bubbles, den repeat 2 to 3 times again jus to be sure. rem the right, top up by dripping, den slow left.

Now, put back the small screw into the left hole n work the right one. Right side is opposite, pull to left fast, push to right slow. Do the drip top up n clear all bubbles, den put back the right screw. I'm 99% sure most will not get all the air out, to test, pull n push left n right, END to END, if its not consistant pressure or its progressive, den take out the left screw, ignore the right screw n pull, drip, push again. aft this, screw back, remove the other screw, pull, drip, push till no more bubbles, screw back. usually the inconsistant part will be when the damper rod is push till almost the end when left about 1 cm. Work out slowly n alot of times, definately will be consistant thruout the stroke be it left or right. aft this, clean out wid mama lemon n sponge 1st, den use degreaser. I use the ows degreaser n it makes wonder. Den fix back the damper n go for a ride.

 

 

 

 

If timing is just nice, I dun mind a meet up wid all u guys here n show how to do.

My 1st time doing it was a mess, brake fluid here n there, fingers cut by tools, etc.....

 

 

Do u mean the stock damper tat our bike fitted with????