BMW Motorcycles

[Cyclop aka Sideways]

Dry clutches requires a different technique of release as compared to wet clutches. Its ok and should be released fast, not dumping it mind you. You will incur extra wear as what cgl said if one rides it like a wet clutch equipped bike. And yes, labour ain't cheap, sign of the time I guess...

[Nicholai]

I don't know about the current models, but I rode a R1100R for 6 years. The clutch plate replacement for the R1100 series is well documented in several R1100 websites. If you do a lot of half-clutch riding, and I mean a lot, then it may last for about 20k. When I ride my R last time, I used to just move off and quickly change to second gear. I also "pre-pressure" the gear before I pull in the clutch. This would lengthen clutch plate life and ensure a smooth shift without false neutrals. Just some quirkiness that most would get used to after a while. I think the transmission for the current models had improved though.

 

$1.5 to $2k for the clutch plate replacement is mainly for labour. The plate is quite cheap. And you would be adviced to change the oil seal too since you had paid so much to dismantle the engine.

 

BTW, when I sold my bike at more than 60k km of mileage, there was zero engine or transmission problems. BMW engines are very reliable. But there are problems here and there with electronics, and these kicks in about 4th year of my ownership of the bike. The recent revamp on the wiring in BMW bikes would, hopefully, have addressed these issues.

 

I think if you are opting for the F800GS, then you would not need to worry as the transmission will not be the "dry" type.

 

By that you mean something like riding a scrambler: kick into 1st gear, rev a bit then quickly kick up to the 2nd gear? If that is the way then I'm used to it . Have you ever replaced the clutch plates during the 6 years of ownership? I understand that it costs a bomb as to access to the plates, the mech needs to dismantle the engine, right?

 

Haha.. thanx for the assurance on the F800GS, but it is quite uncommon for a dual-sport/enduro bike with wet clutch. Hmmm, maybe BMW sees this as an improvement??

[coolcat]

liao liao .. now gotta relearn riding, never knew that wet and dry clutch got different way to ride.

[Nicholai]

liao liao .. now gotta relearn riding, never knew that wet and dry clutch got different way to ride.

 

Haha.. me too. I knew about that only now .

[cgl]

By that you mean something like riding a scrambler: kick into 1st gear, rev a bit then quickly kick up to the 2nd gear? If that is the way then I'm used to it . Have you ever replaced the clutch plates during the 6 years of ownership? I understand that it costs a bomb as to access to the plates, the mech needs to dismantle the engine, right?

 

Haha.. thanx for the assurance on the F800GS, but it is quite uncommon for a dual-sport/enduro bike with wet clutch. Hmmm, maybe BMW sees this as an improvement??

 

Nope. When shifting up, just push up the gear lever to the point before it'll go to the next gear, then clutch in. Also, I was adviced by the technician not to clutch in fully, just clutch in enough to shift to the next gear. All these will minimize clutch wear.

 

And no, had never changed my clutch plate.

[cgl]

liao liao .. now gotta relearn riding, never knew that wet and dry clutch got different way to ride.

 

Hahaha, relax! Just my personal view. May not be correct. If you had been riding your way and there was no problem, no need to relearn lah!

[SDR]

liao liao .. now gotta relearn riding, never knew that wet and dry clutch got different way to ride.

 

Can teach me after you master it?

 

I buy you milo lah.

[Nicholai]

Nope. When shifting up, just push up the gear lever to the point before it'll go to the next gear, then clutch in. Also, I was adviced by the technician not to clutch in fully, just clutch in enough to shift to the next gear. All these will minimize clutch wear.

 

And no, had never changed my clutch plate.

 

I see. Good for you, man!! Seems like you had a mighty awesome time with your Beemer. Perhaps what the mech told you is some sort of a preventive measure. Good advice!! Thanx for the info, man.

[Cyclop aka Sideways]

Aiyoh... its a German gal.... don't need to baby her http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/naughty.gif they are built tough.. kekeke

 

Can teach me after you master it?

 

I buy you milo lah.

[SDR]

Aiyoh... its a German gal.... don't need to baby her http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/naughty.gif they are built tough.. kekeke

 

Gal... mine is 4 generation back, may be grandam... must handle with care.

[slowpoke]

Gal... mine is 4 generation back, may be grandam... must handle with care.

 

well i believe the wet clutch type will usually require a change at a shorter interval... maybe ard 40k but again, it'll depends on how u ride n also where u ride... trackies usually change earlier n will use this chance to upgrade the friction plates or springs.. beemerwise, i think the preloading technique will help with clutch wear as well as smoother shifting..

 

wet n dry clutch do need a slightly different method to get optimal results..(in my opinion) So far... my mileage is 131k n clutch change only once.. so im guess its quite lasting hehe (fingers crossed)

 

hope my comments help

[Nicholai]

well i believe the wet clutch type will usually require a change at a shorter interval... maybe ard 40k but again, it'll depends on how u ride n also where u ride... trackies usually change earlier n will use this chance to upgrade the friction plates or springs.. beemerwise, i think the preloading technique will help with clutch wear as well as smoother shifting..

 

wet n dry clutch do need a slightly different method to get optimal results..(in my opinion) So far... my mileage is 131k n clutch change only once.. so im guess its quite lasting hehe (fingers crossed)

 

hope my comments help

 

They really help, man! These really confirmed that the myth of clutch plates replacement every 10,000km is, as it is, a myth. Btw, what are the symptoms of worn-off clutch plates?

[SDR]

well i believe the wet clutch type will usually require a change at a shorter interval... maybe ard 40k but again, it'll depends on how u ride n also where u ride... trackies usually change earlier n will use this chance to upgrade the friction plates or springs.. beemerwise, i think the preloading technique will help with clutch wear as well as smoother shifting..

 

wet n dry clutch do need a slightly different method to get optimal results..(in my opinion) So far... my mileage is 131k n clutch change only once.. so im guess its quite lasting hehe (fingers crossed)

 

hope my comments help

 

Wow, 40,000km only, does that apply to "racing" bikes?

 

Understand an R6 owner replaced the clutch plates around 20,000km but I guess he upgraded it instead as he uses the R6 for track purpose only.

 

I have understanding from an ex Ducati M900 Monster that the clutch plates can last at least 25,000km before replacement.

 

Just wonder what is the life span for sport tourer like VFR, FJR, STX and ST11? So far, never heard of anyone mentioned about clutch plates replacement and some ST11 have clocked almost 200,000km.

 

For most R1100 and R1150, I understand most of them needed clutch plate replacement at 80,000km due to these bikes have more torque, higher bhp and usually heavily loaded. My Ah Pek R100R has clocked 155,000km to date and did an inspection on the clutch plate and etc… at about 150,000km when replacing engine oil seals. I have requested mech to replace the clutch plate since all has been dismantled but mech advised not to waste money as he compared my used clutch plate to a to a brand new clutch plate to show me that the wear is minimum, he explains that the wear is min as my bike has only 58bhp, lighter, smaller wheel and I don’t ride hard enough which I agreed as I never ride above 90km/hr in Singapore.

 

[SDR]

The brake reservoir for the R1200GS /GSA is vented. Therefore, when you travel at high speeds or cruise extensively at constant on highways, the deflected air around your windscreen goes right above the region where the reservoir is. This deflected air creates a vacumm pocket above the reservoir, thus sucking out brake fuild. Techinically, it can be solve by just putting a sock or wrist band on the reservoir and it will solve yr problem. It is a common occurence in all R1200GS's. Actually more common on the GSA. There are instances of it on the K1200S too.

 

Correct me if I am wrong, I think all brake reservoirs are vented regardless of makes, if not, don't think we are able to brake on other bikes.

 

Just like all engine are vented and not necessary to add additional hose to let it breathe.

 

I did talk to other GS/GSA owners and they don't have such problem (1 of the GSA12 rode his to Europe and he told me he had observed everything all the way there and nothing leak, very reliable bike according to him).

 

Could it be due to over filled? What about just fill it up to 3/4 full and monitor, I think that should solve the problem. Do check the seals inside the reservoir and replace it if necessary. In usual case, I filled up mine to 3/4 full, monitor it after 100km and top up to near max line if necessary but I usually leave it at 3/4 mark.

 

[cgl]

Correct me if I am wrong, I think all brake reservoirs are vented regardless of makes, if not, don't think we are able to brake on other bikes.

 

Just like all engine are vented and not necessary to add additional hose to let it breathe.

 

I did talk to other GS/GSA owners and they don't have such problem (1 of the GSA12 rode his to Europe and he told me he had observed everything all the way there and nothing leak, very reliable bike according to him).

 

Could it be due to over filled? What about just fill it up to 3/4 full and monitor, I think that should solve the problem. Do check the seals inside the reservoir and replace it if necessary. In usual case, I filled up mine to 3/4 full, monitor it after 100km and top up to near max line if necessary but I usually leave it at 3/4 mark.

 

 

Wouldn't venting the brake reservoir introduce moisture into the brake fluid? Brake fluids have a very high boiling point to prevent vapourizing (brake pads are heated up when braking) and creating bubbles of vapour. Vapour is bad as it can be compressed, thus reducing braking effectiveness. If I'm not wrong, too much moisture in the brake fluid would lead to the water boiling out when the pads are hot and might reduce braking effectiveness. I think that's the reason why we should only use newly opened bottles of brake fluids (brake fluids absorb moisture quite readily).

[SDR]

Wouldn't venting the brake reservoir introduce moisture into the brake fluid? Brake fluids have a very high boiling point to prevent vapourizing (brake pads are heated up when braking) and creating bubbles of vapour. Vapour is bad as it can be compressed, thus reducing braking effectiveness. If I'm not wrong, too much moisture in the brake fluid would lead to the water boiling out when the pads are hot and might reduce braking effectiveness. I think that's the reason why we should only use newly opened bottles of brake fluids (brake fluids absorb moisture quite readily).

 

err... do we have some misunderstanding here. Look at all brake reservoir on all makes, there's a small breathing hole for ventilation. I may be wrong.

[slowpoke]

They really help, man! These really confirmed that the myth of clutch plates replacement every 10,000km is, as it is, a myth. Btw, what are the symptoms of worn-off clutch plates?

 

i suppose higer revs not producing the equivalent power... like in high gears n when u open the throttle hard, ur revs go up but the power dun seem to come.. cos its all slipping at the clutch n not transmitted to ur tyres.. hehe..

 

something like tat.. dun worry.. if it happens... im sure u can feel it..

[slowpoke]

Wow, 40,000km only, does that apply to "racing" bikes?

 

Understand an R6 owner replaced the clutch plates around 20,000km but I guess he upgraded it instead as he uses the R6 for track purpose only.

 

I have understanding from an ex Ducati M900 Monster that the clutch plates can last at least 25,000km before replacement.

 

Just wonder what is the life span for sport tourer like VFR, FJR, STX and ST11? So far, never heard of anyone mentioned about clutch plates replacement and some ST11 have clocked almost 200,000km.

 

For most R1100 and R1150, I understand most of them needed clutch plate replacement at 80,000km due to these bikes have more torque, higher bhp and usually heavily loaded. My Ah Pek R100R has clocked 155,000km to date and did an inspection on the clutch plate and etc… at about 150,000km when replacing engine oil seals. I have requested mech to replace the clutch plate since all has been dismantled but mech advised not to waste money as he compared my used clutch plate to a to a brand new clutch plate to show me that the wear is minimum, he explains that the wear is min as my bike has only 58bhp, lighter, smaller wheel and I don’t ride hard enough which I agreed as I never ride above 90km/hr in Singapore.

 

 

 

the r6 clutch change intervals sounds very realistic.. as well as the duke... as for sport tourers, if they are used mainly for touring, then im sure they will last a long long time.. 100km n above cos they are not exposed to stop go traffic and high revs clutch throws and high rev downshifts as we do in track...

 

the mileage usually is jus a rough guide for clutch change.. but mainly will depend on how u ride and why u ride.. wahhaha

[SDR]

I don't understand why dry and wet clutch? Many say that dry is better, faster and etc... is it true? and in what way it is better or why it is better and faster?

 

Thanks.

[coolcat]

My ½ cent worth …

 

It is not moisture that is worrisome for brake fluid but air. Air (as opposed to fluids) is highly compressible and hence it is detrimental to any fluid-based hydraulic system. Brake fluid absorbs air and hence should be changed over time because with air-content, it losses its compressibility.

 

As for clutch ………………… I know nothing. I do know that Ducati clutch plate is cheaper and more accessible, hence cheaper to change.

 

Cheers

 

Cat

[coolcat]

err... do we have some misunderstanding here. Look at all brake reservoir on all makes, there's a small breathing hole for ventilation. I may be wrong.

 

I think my R1150 do not have le, cover held down by 4 nuts. But I agree, the Brembo Cup I think maybe have, that is why most people put wrist-band around to absorb the fluid?

 

ah, SDR, what have you done now? Now I have to solve the mystery of the venting hole ....

 

Cheers

 

Cat

[coolcat]

Slowpoke, I note that you now ride a R1100R and a R1, ... out of curiosity, how do you find a beemer attractive after all the tech / performance of a racing bike? .. apart from a more comfy posture ...

 

I am just curious ...

 

Cheers

 

Cat

[Cyclop aka Sideways]

Dry clutch makes the bike sounds like a ca$h register... ka-ching ka-ching http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/lol8.gif Music to some people's ear.....

 

I don't understand why dry and wet clutch? Many say that dry is better, faster and etc... is it true? and in what way it is better or why it is better and faster?

 

Thanks.

[Cyclop aka Sideways]

Thats the perfect testimony for a BMW bike... how many 4th generation of other marques do we still see on the road... you got a gem there Bro

 

Gal... mine is 4 generation back, may be grandam... must handle with care.

[SDR]

I think my R1150 do not have le, cover held down by 4 nuts. But I agree, the Brembo Cup I think maybe have, that is why most people put wrist-band around to absorb the fluid?

 

ah, SDR, what have you done now? Now I have to solve the mystery of the venting hole ....

 

Cheers

 

Cat

 

huh... the purpose of the wrist-band is to absorb the fluid? Will something that has "wing" to wrap around do a better job? Kekeke...

 

Was told by an ex-street racer - I mean ah beng in the early 90s that the wrist-band on his lacing bike brake reservoir was to keep the fluid in correct temp during "high speed".

 

KNN, kena smoked by ah beng for so many years...

 

Thanks.