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[Discussion] DRZ 400 SM


biting_point
Go to solution Solved by exygon,

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Now my bike got this popping exhaust sound every time i deaccelerate and changing gear. Must i do JD jetting? i also plan to have aftermarket airfilter and 3x3 mod. Im not sure what to do 1st? i heard aftermarket airfilter and the 3x3 mod must be pair up. Any idea which one to do 1st?

 

Popping sound= Remove PAIR

Which ones u wanna do 1st depends on u but do the major ones 1st..MCCT,PAIR Removal and some other stuffs like maybe u can put in a FCR 41mm plus race cams,valves and the list goes on and on..haha..just my 2cents..aiyoh..just go down to Raptor can liow bro..

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Now my bike got this popping exhaust sound every time i deaccelerate and changing gear. Must i do JD jetting? i also plan to have aftermarket airfilter and 3x3 mod. Im not sure what to do 1st? i heard aftermarket airfilter and the 3x3 mod must be pair up. Any idea which one to do 1st?

 

In my personal opinion and having tried the JD kit before.. I wish to say that the JD kit, in my humble opinion, no offense to anyone intended... is as useful as a torn condom. Its a waste of money.... again in my own humble opinion.

 

All else untouched..if you put on an aftermarket exhaust (full system or end can) which is less restrictive...the engine is able to draw in more air through the carb coz the exhaust gases are leaving the combustion chamber faster and creating a lower pressure faster and thus 'sucking' in more air from the carb. The carb jetting now becomes too small to meter out the fuel proportionately to the amount increased air.

 

The mixture going to the combustion chamber is now lean (more air than fuel by weight). Lean mixtures burn hot and burn slow. So when the exhaust valve opens on the exhaust stroke... the mixture continues burning (exploding) into the exhaust hence the popping. The popping gets worst when the throttle is closed at high rpms, be it during downshifting or upshifting. Because the throttle is closed... even lesser fuel gets to mix with the inrushing air.. lagi more lean...lagi more explosions in the exhaust.

 

And the continued slow burning of exhaust gases in the pipe causes the header to heat up, so you feel the bike is very hot, and in its worst case, can cause the pipe to turn blue or even glow red hot.

 

The first 3 things that you should do on a DRZ is to get the case savers, axle sliders and handguards installed. The rest of the other stuff can come later.

 

If you put on an aftermarket exhaust.. you need to rejet the carb with bigger main and pilot jets. To further enhance the freer flowing exhaust.. you put on an aftermarket hi flow air filter like K&N. The enhance the higher air flow that the K&N air filter allows to the engine.. the current airbox is too restrictive in that it has small openings...so you do the 3 X 3 mod to allow more air in.

 

You do not need an MCCT unless you are racing the bike. The current ACCT on the bike (after 2005 models) is an upgraded version and is good enough for daily use.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1208-1.jpg

 

FAA licenced motorcycle mechanic :angel:

 

Add me: http://www.facebook.com/raptormotorsports

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Are you a trained mechanic? How would you know it's the piston and ring without even opening up to see the wear and tear of the cyclinder wall and piston? Even a well trained mech wouldn't diagose without opening up the cyclinder..

 

I suggest you bring it to a bike shop to get it check instead of guessing..

 

A piston and ring costs abt $300 or less..

You still gonna buy gasket, EO, labour for it..

Which might add up to abt $700, which is abt the cost of doing a overhaul..

A good bike shop will include the valve clearance for you, some do not..

 

If there's nothing wrong with the engine, dun open it..

My friend did a over haul on his 7 years DRZ, the wall and piston are still in great condition, and he regretted spending the money..

 

The sound maybe be a loose timing chain which only costs abt $200 to replace..

 

OK.. thanks for the input. Very much appreciated. Will bring her bike to a workshop soon.

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In my personal opinion and having tried the JD kit before.. I wish to say that the JD kit, in my humble opinion, no offense to anyone intended... is as useful as a torn condom. Its a waste of money.... again in my own humble opinion.

 

All else untouched..if you put on an aftermarket exhaust (full system or end can) which is less restrictive...the engine is able to draw in more air through the carb coz the exhaust gases are leaving the combustion chamber faster and creating a lower pressure faster and thus 'sucking' in more air from the carb. The carb jetting now becomes too small to meter out the fuel proportionately to the amount increased air.

 

The mixture going to the combustion chamber is now lean (more air than fuel by weight). Lean mixtures burn hot and burn slow. So when the exhaust valve opens on the exhaust stroke... the mixture continues burning (exploding) into the exhaust hence the popping. The popping gets worst when the throttle is closed at high rpms, be it during downshifting or upshifting. Because the throttle is closed... even lesser fuel gets to mix with the inrushing air.. lagi more lean...lagi more explosions in the exhaust.

 

And the continued slow burning of exhaust gases in the pipe causes the header to heat up, so you feel the bike is very hot, and in its worst case, can cause the pipe to turn blue or even glow red hot.

 

The first 3 things that you should do on a DRZ is to get the case savers, axle sliders and handguards installed. The rest of the other stuff can come later.

 

If you put on an aftermarket exhaust.. you need to rejet the carb with bigger main and pilot jets. To further enhance the freer flowing exhaust.. you put on an aftermarket hi flow air filter like K&N. The enhance the higher air flow that the K&N air filter allows to the engine.. the current airbox is too restrictive in that it has small openings...so you do the 3 X 3 mod to allow more air in.

 

You do not need an MCCT unless you are racing the bike. The current ACCT on the bike (after 2005 models) is an upgraded version and is good enough for daily use.

 

Thanks alot for the info. One day ill come down to your workshop. :)

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All pipes are mostly the same...... its just which brand you prefer...... Send to raptor motorsports at kallang ave industrial park for your servicing...... you will enjoy the bike after servicing.

 

Sure, just bought the pipe at moto world :) ok i back track the threads and did some reading today notice there are a few shops that was mention

 

1) unique motors

2) abboy (i think)

3) raptor motorsports

 

will try these shops out :) do u have the exact address ?

 

THanks manz am excited to ride the drz on monday after i go inspection for the pipe

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Raptor MotorSports and Abboy Motor Racing have been and still are actively involved in racing DRZs in the SMSA Bike Racing Series for last year and this year.

 

DRZ #18 is probably the fastest DRZ in Singapore... unless another DRZ can clock below 1 min 54 secs at the Pasir Gudang track... and the mechanic for this bike is Boy Johari from Abboy Motor Racing.

 

Race proven work quality.. that counts.. coz when the red lights go out...the bullshit stops and facts talk.

 

In short... which mechanic who does your carb rejetting goes to the Pasir Gudang track with you to ensure that the bike performs to expectations??? I will tell you now.. none. They will just rev the bike and tell you its good... collect your money and say bye bye.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1208-1.jpg

 

FAA licenced motorcycle mechanic :angel:

 

Add me: http://www.facebook.com/raptormotorsports

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Raptor MotorSports and Abboy Motor Racing have been and still are actively involved in racing DRZs in the SMSA Bike Racing Series for last year and this year.

 

DRZ #18 is probably the fastest DRZ in Singapore... unless another DRZ can clock below 1 min 54 secs at the Pasir Gudang track... and the mechanic for this bike is Boy Johari from Abboy Motor Racing.

 

Race proven work quality.. that counts.. coz when the red lights go out...the bullshit stops and facts talk.

 

In short... which mechanic who does your carb rejetting goes to the Pasir Gudang track with you to ensure that the bike performs to expectations??? I will tell you now.. none. They will just rev the bike and tell you its good... collect your money and say bye bye.

 

Hi Raptor,

please advice and help,

my mileage dropped from 180 to 100 km and i must switch to REV tank after i had change the JD setting, is the setting normal or not right and how come the different so much?

thanks

LC 125 - 1993

LC 125 - 1995

Aprilla RS 125 - 1998

Honda Civic EG9 - 1999

Mitsubishi Lancer CK4 - 2001

Nissan Sunny B14 - 2001

Nissan Primera - 2002

Nissan Sunny N16 - 2003

Nissan Sunny N16 - 2007

Honda Civic FD & DRZ 400 SM:thumb:

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Hi Raptor,

please advice and help,

my mileage dropped from 180 to 100 km and i must switch to REV tank after i had change the JD setting, is the setting normal or not right and how come the different so much?

thanks

 

Like I have said in an earlier post (post #227), I have never liked the JD jettings coz they are not meant for our tropical country humid weather. They will work great in the drier and cooler air of the temperate countries. The main jet needle of the JD kit is thinner and more tapered than the stock.

 

This means that if the main jet size remains the same... the fuel drawn out is going to be more. That is OK with the temperate countries where air is cold and dry... cold and dry means the air is denser, the molecules are packed closer together. More air can go with more fuel.

 

Here is tropical Singapore? Air is mixed with alot of water molecules.. so air is actually less dense. Less going in and more fuel coming out from the main jet = super rich running = high fuel consumption.

 

My advice is... throw out the JD kit.

 

Sadly... there are alot of conmen around willing to sell you anything and everything. Whether it works or not... its not their problem. Their problem is to suck out all the money you have.

 

In my 34 years of bike riding... I have seen and met them all. And now that I have started my own bike servicing business... I don't intend to be like them.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1208-1.jpg

 

FAA licenced motorcycle mechanic :angel:

 

Add me: http://www.facebook.com/raptormotorsports

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Like I have said in an earlier post (post #227), I have never liked the JD jettings coz they are not meant for our tropical country humid weather. They will work great in the drier and cooler air of the temperate countries. The main jet needle of the JD kit is thinner and more tapered than the stock.

 

This means that if the main jet size remains the same... the fuel drawn out is going to be more. That is OK with the temperate countries where air is cold and dry... cold and dry means the air is denser, the molecules are packed closer together. More air can go with more fuel.

 

Here is tropical Singapore? Air is mixed with alot of water molecules.. so air is actually less dense. Less going in and more fuel coming out from the main jet = super rich running = high fuel consumption.

 

My advice is... throw out the JD kit.

 

Sadly... there are alot of conmen around willing to sell you anything and everything. Whether it works or not... its not their problem. Their problem is to suck out all the money you have.

 

In my 34 years of bike riding... I have seen and met them all. And now that I have started my own bike servicing business... I don't intend to be like them.

 

Hey gunner,

Take his words bro. JD kit is just waste of your damm money. Ive been there done there and a wide smile came out after my try out. thumbs up for raptor and mechanic boy johari. ;D

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well, JD kit works for me thou..

I bought it in myself after seeing the amazing reviews on Thumpertalk..

 

Installed and try..

No popping sounds, FC is still good..

smiled happily when I rode out on the first try on JD kit..

 

My JD kit never gives me any problems until I changed to my FCR..!!

FCR also no problems because I followed Thumpertalk too..

Bought the FCR39MX specially made for DRZ with the proper "plug and play" kit..

this one made me smile until cannot see eyes..

the power difference btw stock carb and FCR is noticeably big..

 

My FC when I had my stockc carb with JD is 30-32km/L..

My FCR FC is 18-20km/L..

Edited by biting_point
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well, JD kit works for me thou..

I bought it in myself after seeing the amazing reviews on Thumpertalk..

 

Installed and try..

No popping sounds, FC is still good..

smiled happily when I rode out on the first try on JD kit..

 

My JD kit never gives me any problems until I changed to my FCR..!!

FCR also no problems because I followed Thumpertalk too..

Bought the FCR39MX specially made for DRZ with the proper "plug and play" kit..

this one made me smile until cannot see eyes..

the power difference btw stock carb and FCR is noticeably big..

 

My FC when I had my stockc carb with JD is 30-32km/L..

My FCR FC is 18-20km/L..

 

Thats awesomely good FC on your stock carb. You running any aftermarket endcan or FS?

Im getting about 21km/l on my stock carb with LV endcan.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii208/danielsin2/800_3108.jpg

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Just to clarify... the fuel consumption of the bike depends on what kind of roads you ride the bike, traffic light to traffic light or expressways most of the time, depends on what sprockets you have got on and depends on how heavy handed you are on the throttle.

 

Another contributing factor is the tyre pressures you are using.

 

My DRZ has a highly souped up engine, running stock sprockets, giving me 140km before reserve on the expressways and only 70 km on the Pasir Gudang race track.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1208-1.jpg

 

FAA licenced motorcycle mechanic :angel:

 

Add me: http://www.facebook.com/raptormotorsports

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Like I have said in an earlier post (post #227), I have never liked the JD jettings coz they are not meant for our tropical country humid weather. They will work great in the drier and cooler air of the temperate countries. The main jet needle of the JD kit is thinner and more tapered than the stock.

 

This means that if the main jet size remains the same... the fuel drawn out is going to be more. That is OK with the temperate countries where air is cold and dry... cold and dry means the air is denser, the molecules are packed closer together. More air can go with more fuel.

 

Here is tropical Singapore? Air is mixed with alot of water molecules.. so air is actually less dense. Less going in and more fuel coming out from the main jet = super rich running = high fuel consumption.

 

My advice is... throw out the JD kit.

 

Sadly... there are alot of conmen around willing to sell you anything and everything. Whether it works or not... its not their problem. Their problem is to suck out all the money you have.

 

In my 34 years of bike riding... I have seen and met them all. And now that I have started my own bike servicing business... I don't intend to be like them.

 

Hi Raptor,

thanks for the advice and i need your help to take out them, I will drop by your shop this Saturday to have them remove..... haiz.... kena con.......puke....

LC 125 - 1993

LC 125 - 1995

Aprilla RS 125 - 1998

Honda Civic EG9 - 1999

Mitsubishi Lancer CK4 - 2001

Nissan Sunny B14 - 2001

Nissan Primera - 2002

Nissan Sunny N16 - 2003

Nissan Sunny N16 - 2007

Honda Civic FD & DRZ 400 SM:thumb:

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Hey gunner,

Take his words bro. JD kit is just waste of your damm money. Ive been there done there and a wide smile came out after my try out. thumbs up for raptor and mechanic boy johari. ;D

 

ya... thanks bro, wasted my hard earn money, i should read his post before purchase the stupid thing

LC 125 - 1993

LC 125 - 1995

Aprilla RS 125 - 1998

Honda Civic EG9 - 1999

Mitsubishi Lancer CK4 - 2001

Nissan Sunny B14 - 2001

Nissan Primera - 2002

Nissan Sunny N16 - 2003

Nissan Sunny N16 - 2007

Honda Civic FD & DRZ 400 SM:thumb:

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Share on other sites

another question...

 

how to rid off scratches from plastic fairings to like new?

 

I mean.. besides cover & conceal like stickers & decals...

 

anyone done this miracle healing work b4?

 

sorry if i'm asking a question that's ben posted and answered here.. have tried searching...

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Dear seniors, i just got my drz on monday did a full servicing engine oil top up coolent plugs ... and a remus slip on, rode the bike ard notice the high beam indicator keep flashing on and off and gone after awhile even though i am sure i didnt touch it, today i didnt ride then reach home gave the bike a start, she started then i throttle a bit it died then very hard to start then when it finally start i smell something like burning rubber or plastic near the mid pipe or exhaust.

 

Is all these normal ? if not normal what must i do and look out for ?

 

thanks in advance ... :)

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