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Posted
Stick your finger under the catch, you should be able to push up some mechanism/pin.

 

I'm using bluetack to keep the pin and hence, the catch, in position.

But everytime you push the button, the pin will drop again.

Hence, have to readjust again.

 

Sounds :giddy: ...

 

That sound to be a good first aid solution. Still figuring on a more premanent solution.

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Posted

1) common engine problem before getting? belt? roller?

 

2) radiator spoil?

 

3) does the engine burn 4t(worn rings or piston) n give out white smoke?

 

More like those large sum repair.

not like wear n tear parts, brake pads, tire.

 

Do you ride burgman 250?

i went to a few bikeshop....they say this bike got most prob.

 

becoz too common and ppl dun take care? spoil just sell?

 

did i ask in the wrong thread?

Hello

Old doesnt mean no good!

 

TZR125 2RK

XR400

Posted
can send me the link? thanks a lot.

 

Here you go bro! :)

Even the smallest spark can start a massive forest fire...

 

Quotable Quotes: If you ride a motorcycle often, you will be killed riding it. That much is as sure as night follows day. Your responsibility is to be vigilant and careful as to continue to push that eventuality so far forward that you die of old age first

Posted
Got the plastic rivets from the Bolts website.... And they are 101% better and more sturdy than the original!

 

Cool, guess its time to order some! The ones for below the floormat and bottom fairing are M8s right?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/Arcfire/PGforumbike.jpg

 

Jun 2002 - May 2003 ~ NSR150SP

May2003 - Dec 2006 ~ GSXR400RR

Oct 2006 - Present ~ Burgman AN400K3

Posted
Here you go bro! :)

 

thanks bro.

but these, the designs are the same as the stock ones.

guess i'll have to try the Honda ones.

TEAM RedBull Singapore

 

Daniel aka bigcow +65 9105-0569

 

ScooTourers: Have Scooter, Will Travel...

Posted

Arcfire: Yup, the big ones are M8s

 

Bigcow: They look the same, but the design is slightly different... the rivets are "3-stage" types, as in the inner portion is not removable, so you just have to depress and the rivet can be removed.

 

For the old design of the OEM rivet, you have to push the centre pin all the way in (sometimes all the way through) to remove the rivet... this often results in breakage or the centre pin getting lost.

 

But I also dunno if the Honda ones are even better in design... any pictures of it? :p

Even the smallest spark can start a massive forest fire...

 

Quotable Quotes: If you ride a motorcycle often, you will be killed riding it. That much is as sure as night follows day. Your responsibility is to be vigilant and careful as to continue to push that eventuality so far forward that you die of old age first

Posted

Bigcow: They look the same, but the design is slightly different... the rivets are "3-stage" types, as in the inner portion is not removable, so you just have to depress and the rivet can be removed.

 

For the old design of the OEM rivet, you have to push the centre pin all the way in (sometimes all the way through) to remove the rivet... this often results in breakage or the centre pin getting lost.

 

But I also dunno if the Honda ones are even better in design... any pictures of it? :p

 

cos the plastic rivet got dirt stuck there. thus not easy to remove. the honda ones are definitely more tough

TEAM RedBull Singapore

 

Daniel aka bigcow +65 9105-0569

 

ScooTourers: Have Scooter, Will Travel...

Posted
That sound to be a good first aid solution. Still figuring on a more premanent solution.

 

My bluetack have being there for 1.5 yrs :cheeky:

Just need spend few second to adjust everytime after pump petrol.

Posted

:giddy:

My bluetack have being there for 1.5 yrs :cheeky:

Just need spend few second to adjust everytime after pump petrol.

 

In that case, I might try it too. Who know might not be a first aid solution after all.

 

Thank for the tip.

Posted
Arcfire: Yup, the big ones are M8s

 

Bigcow: They look the same, but the design is slightly different... the rivets are "3-stage" types, as in the inner portion is not removable, so you just have to depress and the rivet can be removed.

 

For the old design of the OEM rivet, you have to push the centre pin all the way in (sometimes all the way through) to remove the rivet... this often results in breakage or the centre pin getting lost.

 

But I also dunno if the Honda ones are even better in design... any pictures of it? :p

 

Bro, how did you get past the shipping address on the website? There's no Singapore found the the list of countries. Did you get them to ship internationally?

 

How much did everything cost?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/Arcfire/PGforumbike.jpg

 

Jun 2002 - May 2003 ~ NSR150SP

May2003 - Dec 2006 ~ GSXR400RR

Oct 2006 - Present ~ Burgman AN400K3

Posted

Bro, I used VPostUSA for the shipping, all in all the shipping costed USD 5.00 + SGD 22 bucks.

 

I also got a oil/air separator, so the SGD shipping was shared between 2 items. Probably check with you how you fixed yours up... :sweat:

Even the smallest spark can start a massive forest fire...

 

Quotable Quotes: If you ride a motorcycle often, you will be killed riding it. That much is as sure as night follows day. Your responsibility is to be vigilant and careful as to continue to push that eventuality so far forward that you die of old age first

Posted
Bro, I used VPostUSA for the shipping, all in all the shipping costed USD 5.00 + SGD 22 bucks.

Shipping sounds ex...VPostUSA getting way ex nowsadays.

 

the honda ones are definitely more tough

Bigcow do u have p/n for the honda clips?if can fit i might be ordering.

 

Anyone has a blue prints view of the 'plastic flap' that cover the petrol tank cap. It just pop up and refuse to be press down. Think the catch is spoilt.

try pushing ur flap down harder until the catch clip into place. Mine use to be good til i replace the whole fairing. that catch can easily replaced and should not be too ex also.

AN650L3 (current): All mod transferred.

SW-T400 (till oct 13): voltmeter, safety features disabled. coocase v36+remote. Adjustable, folding Brake levers. Givi AF318 windshield. on-off switch(pilot light, head light, hazard light), electrical seat unlatch,Dr pulley.

AN400K6 (apr07-dec11): side deflectors, J Costa variator, Dr pulley slider + HiT clutch.

YP250, RVF400/RS250, NSF125.

Posted

 

 

try pushing ur flap down harder until the catch clip into place. Mine use to be good til i replace the whole fairing. that catch can easily replaced and should not be too ex also.

 

replace which part of fairing ?

Posted

many many but if u need to know:

gray colour - v piece above headlight. main piece surrounding H.L. piece below right leg.

 

black colour - main piece surrounding fuel lip (plastic flap). main compartment panel. piece surrounding meter and piece surrounding the 2 small compartment. piece where rider step

 

handle bar. fairing bracket. bracket below rear pillon foot.

 

a bit chim rite!

AN650L3 (current): All mod transferred.

SW-T400 (till oct 13): voltmeter, safety features disabled. coocase v36+remote. Adjustable, folding Brake levers. Givi AF318 windshield. on-off switch(pilot light, head light, hazard light), electrical seat unlatch,Dr pulley.

AN400K6 (apr07-dec11): side deflectors, J Costa variator, Dr pulley slider + HiT clutch.

YP250, RVF400/RS250, NSF125.

Posted
many many but if u need to know:

gray colour - v piece above headlight. main piece surrounding H.L. piece below right leg.

 

black colour - main piece surrounding fuel lip (plastic flap). main compartment panel. piece surrounding meter and piece surrounding the 2 small compartment. piece where rider step

 

handle bar. fairing bracket. bracket below rear pillon foot.

 

a bit chim rite!

 

bro, need to meet up with u 1 day. wan to take a look at your mini mirror.

TEAM RedBull Singapore

 

Daniel aka bigcow +65 9105-0569

 

ScooTourers: Have Scooter, Will Travel...

Posted
bro, need to meet up with u 1 day. wan to take a look at your mini mirror.

okie maybe coffee?

 

attached pic showing how to remove fuel lip catch.

catch.jpg

AN650L3 (current): All mod transferred.

SW-T400 (till oct 13): voltmeter, safety features disabled. coocase v36+remote. Adjustable, folding Brake levers. Givi AF318 windshield. on-off switch(pilot light, head light, hazard light), electrical seat unlatch,Dr pulley.

AN400K6 (apr07-dec11): side deflectors, J Costa variator, Dr pulley slider + HiT clutch.

YP250, RVF400/RS250, NSF125.

Posted

Remove the fuel lip catch as show by MaIkEr's pictures. Thank for the tips.

 

I then dismantle the fuel lip catch, easily done. There are 3 plastics parts without the metal spring. Think rusted into small pieces.

 

I then bring the part down Sungei road to get the spring, manage to get it a Kelatan lane, block 20 , corner hardware shop. Just find any spring which is longer than the stem of the plastic part. Cost 20 cents. Make sure that the spring is stainless steel.

 

Reassemble the 4 parts and it work very well.

 

Thank MaIkEr for the tips.

Posted

Err.. this trend like dying off wor... not much happenin around... Zzz...

Owned: Daylim Daystar, Honda Superfour, Suzuki DR350, Kawasaki ZX6R(98), Kawasaki ZX12R(00), Piaggio X9 200, Piaggio X9 500, Honda XR400, Piaggio Skipper 125, Gilera Runner VXR200(07), Suzuki Swift 1.3.

 

Current: Suzuki Burgman 650(04)

 

Coming Up: Mitsubishi Colt Version-R Turbo

Posted
anyone located their IU in the glove compartment , any problems with the erp detecting it ?

 

never a prob. but locate it in your right side glove compartment. cos thats where most of the shopping centers and other buildings the IU reader is going to point at.

TEAM RedBull Singapore

 

Daniel aka bigcow +65 9105-0569

 

ScooTourers: Have Scooter, Will Travel...

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