Product : Engine Oil Discussion

[Isopropyl]

  fz35s said:

http://www.spc.com.sg/resources/File/lubrication/spc_ksyn.pdf

 

i will be happy to use any balance oil of yours:P it cost above 100buck for that bottle? from what i know it not sold in SPC sation. where did you get yours?

 

do keep us update after you change your oil. if you ask me, try to bite the bullet and run the oil further and see if it does better:P

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

  Isopropyl said:

i will be happy to use any balance oil of yours:P it cost above 100buck for that bottle? from what i know it not sold in SPC sation. where did you get yours?

 

do keep us update after you change your oil. if you ask me, try to bite the bullet and run the oil further and see if it does better:P

 

Mine required a short period of time before the bike and I "got used" to the oil. Once I found out why the running temperature was higher than normal I just did a small carburetor adjustment and it's now running just as well as any other bike oil.... with lots and lots of torque on the low end.

 

kitten

 

... But yes a lot of people and myself wonder why is the bike so darned powerful with HDEO. Low end torque is definitely significantly improved (makes cruising at silly low revs fun) high end is also as good as it was with those expensive synthetic bike oils.

Edited August 31, 2011 by Pandora's Kitten :3

[fz35s]

  Isopropyl said:

i will be happy to use any balance oil of yours:P it cost above 100buck for that bottle? from what i know it not sold in SPC sation. where did you get yours?

 

do keep us update after you change your oil. if you ask me, try to bite the bullet and run the oil further and see if it does better:P

 

i have change to my fav Fully Syn motorcycle oil at noon today ... took time off from work to "change oil"

 

82 degree Celsius for normal riding (at noon)

94 degree Celsius for abusive riding (at noon)

 

well, honda cub can survive using used cooking oil too:

 

i trust my dip stick thermometer and will use oil that produce lesser heat

Edited August 31, 2011 by fz35s

[nbk3]

  Quote

Mine required a short period of time before the bike and I "got used" to the oil. Once I found out why the running temperature was higher than normal I just did a small carburetor adjustment and it's now running just as well as any other bike oil.... with lots and lots of torque on the low end.

 

kitten

 

... But yes a lot of people and myself wonder why is the bike so darned powerful with HDEO. Low end torque is definitely significantly improved (makes cruising at silly low revs fun) high end is also as good as it was with those expensive synthetic bike oils.

 

by adjustment, did you mean to richen the mixture? my tiger runs on the same engine as the phantom ta200 hence im curious on how your experiences are with HDEO.

 

as for the heat issue, what do you guys think about strap-on heatsinks for our air cooled engines? since we do not have a radiator to work with? like, clamping on additional fins?

[Isopropyl]

  fz35s said:

 

i have change to my fav Fully Syn motorcycle oil at noon today ... took time off from work to "change oil"

 

82 degree Celsius for normal riding (at noon)

94 degree Celsius for abusive riding (at noon)

 

well, honda cub can survive using used cooking oil too:

 

i trust my dip stick thermometer and will use oil that produce lesser heat

 

that good!!! so what in your crank case now?

 

using cooking oil for engine is nothing new. still, i have not reach that level of faith yet. hehe...

[fz35s]

  Isopropyl said:

that good!!! so what in your crank case now?

 

using cooking oil for engine is nothing new. still, i have not reach that level of faith yet. hehe...

 

my usual engine oil:

 

http://www.spc.com.sg/resources/File/lubrication/spc_4t_ace.pdf

[Isopropyl]

  nbk3 said:

by adjustment, did you mean to richen the mixture? my tiger runs on the same engine as the phantom ta200 hence im curious on how your experiences are with HDEO.

 

as for the heat issue, what do you guys think about strap-on heatsinks for our air cooled engines? since we do not have a radiator to work with? like, clamping on additional fins?

 

if there are enough airflow i doubt there will be any problem on overheating. if there is prolong minimum airflow, adding practically possible additional surface area will do very little. further more to ensure good thermal transfer you will have to weld it onto the engine.

 

most engine whether air/water/oil cool are being design to operate at certain temperature therefore viscosity rating are tested at 100C. unless your riding condition require, there should be no problem.

 

as far as i know, operationlly of different engeine oil in term of temperature even synthetic vs dino is statistically insignificant. much less important for our day to day riding. that is to say, if you are riding monster V-twin air-cooled engine, a synthetic oil will be at advantage as does not get "cooked" that easily.

 

engine oil reducing temperature indeed is an interesting topic.

[fz35s]

  Isopropyl said:

engine oil reducing temperature indeed is an interesting topic.

 

well, if your concern is about cost and don't mind any brand of HDEO:

you can get a 18 liters HDEO for less than S$ 40 at:

Perfect Auto Centre Co

Add: 20 Woodlands Link #01-21 Woodlands East Ind Est S(738733)

Tel: (65) 67556358 ... look for Michael

 

i have tried several kinds of EO through the years and found that different type of oils does produce temp difference, gear shift smoothness ... etc

 

my engine oil change is every 10,000 km ... what about yours ?

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

  nbk3 said:

by adjustment, did you mean to richen the mixture? my tiger runs on the same engine as the phantom ta200 hence im curious on how your experiences are with HDEO.

 

as for the heat issue, what do you guys think about strap-on heatsinks for our air cooled engines? since we do not have a radiator to work with? like, clamping on additional fins?

 

@nbk3 - I leaned the mixture.

 

 

Once i switched to Rimula I immediately realised there is superior low to mid range torque. The torque is so high at idle that I can start moving without any throttle input whatsoever. This strange torque band shift means that the engine was overheating itself at idle.

 

To "detune" this behaviour I leaned the mixture (air correction screw) by 1/2 turn shifting the optimal torque band to a more practical range. In this case running lean optimised the operating temperature and power band of the engine, and gave superior fuel efficiency to boot.

 

High RPM behaviour is not affected, running just as well (and at similar temp) to the usual range of bike oils.

 

Infact, some of the "cooler running" oils I've tried have one problem... lack of horsepower.

 

I don't recommend using bolt on heatsinks although my group had touched on the subject... it's far easier and more economical to optimise the carb settings, wrap the exhaust for faster heat dissipation. Can be done for $0 - $2

[Isopropyl]

  fz35s said:

well, if your concern is about cost and don't mind any brand of HDEO:

you can get a 18 liters HDEO for less than S$ 40 at:

Perfect Auto Centre Co

Add: 20 Woodlands Link #01-21 Woodlands East Ind Est S(738733)

Tel: (65) 67556358 ... look for Michael

 

i have tried several kinds of EO through the years and found that different type of oils does produce temp difference, gear shift smoothness ... etc

 

my engine oil change is every 10,000 km ... what about yours ?

 

thanks for the information!!! will check up one of these days.

 

i ride for less then a year so only tried a few oil. Motul 300V, Amsoil MCF, Yamalube, Chex 9000, Castrol GTX, Delvac MX, Castrol RX New Gen, Carlube 4T. Seriously i don't feel much different between different oil as time goes by. i not too into "feel" of the engine oil. what causes the different feel? is it viscosity? is it coefficient of friction? i don't know. i more into UOA and data. even using a thermometer to measure the oil temperature does not tell much. is the warmer temperature due to higher friction? or is it due to better conduction of heat so more heat is being dumped into the oil? hard to say isn't it.

 

i change my oil at only 2,000km as i get some FOC HDEO. if i am buying my own oil, most likely i will use it up to 4,000-6,000km as per manual recommendation. next, i might be trying some automobile oil just for the fun of it and of course at no cost:P

 

seem like you have some access to SPC stuff:thumb: between the 2 EO you posted, personally i will take the HDEO anytime. the HDEO is much more robust with CI4/SL rating while the motorcycle oil is SM rated. at 5W50 for the motorcycle oil with a VI of 183, much VII is added to make that possible even with PAO/ester base oil not to mention group III base oil.

[fz35s]

  Isopropyl said:

even using a thermometer to measure the oil temperature does not tell much. is the warmer temperature due to higher friction? or is it due to better conduction of heat so more heat is being dumped into the oil? hard to say isn't it.

 

to me lesser heat translate to better oil for the bike

i am like you guys ... looking for cheaper alternative; however ... i believe what i saw (my thermometer dip stick) and sharing my experience.

 

if HDEO work for your bike ... go on and on

 

this will be my first and last experiment with HDEO for my cb750

[S_R]

Ows 800 cheap and good !

[Isopropyl]

there are rumour that Motul will be coming out with a new version of 300V which is better then current one. awaiting for the good news. hehehe...

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

  S_R said:

Ows 800 cheap and good !

 

Saw OWS for very cheap at Motoworld but the big bike riders don't seem to like it. Some horror stories regarding sludge and poor performance.

[BikedynamicCentre]

OWS engine oil good

[Isopropyl]

for those motul 300v fans, mxtradings is selling 28buck per bottle.

[revhappy]

Motul 5100 10W50 semisyn in my phantom is still doing a good job after 1k kms. Oil level is still at the top of the dip stick mark and I had filled exactly 1L.

[Isopropyl]

@Pandora's Kitten :3

 

How yr bike running on low rpm so far? Dont u worry abt engine oil not reaching the top with such low idle rpm?

[Suede]

MY bike nouvo 135 eats engine oil very fast. It traveled only for near to 3000km. i went for next engine oil change, the drain out from the used engine oil is so little. Any advice what is wrong with my bike? Been using fully synthetic oil all the time.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

  Isopropyl said:

@Pandora's Kitten :3

 

How yr bike running on low rpm so far? Dont u worry abt engine oil not reaching the top with such low idle rpm?

 

No problems at all so far, loving the ability to drive off at 1.5k RPM.

 

Switched back to normal motorcycle fully synthetic oil for sustained high speed use but surprisingly some of the benefits of HDEO remain, such as the sharp clutch engagement and not stalling when clutch is deliberately engaged at very low revs.

 

At high speed I don't remember the bike running this well before HDEO use, but recall from a US discussion years ago that some people like to use diesel EO as a sort of 'flushing oil' because it's high in detergent content. Acceleration and cruising speed improved as a result, although I trade some fuel economy commuting at 110 instead of 95-100.

 

Not advisable to do this on very, very old bikes, however, as the oil may clean the engine too well leading to loss of compression.

[Isopropyl]

gald u are having fun. Cant fight the itch today so ride down to JB for some low cost ron95 techron and a bottle of delo 400. Sgd40 for 5litres of hdeo goodness. The bottle is sitting infront of me with some bright yellow letters tat scream "rivals synthetic performance" with isosyn technology or simply group ii+ base oil.

Cant wait to get it into the crankcase. The next oil i dying to try is some scheaffer oil which is full of moly goodness:p but guess i have learn to control myself. My oil stock is building up in the stores and tat does not go too well with wifey

 

flush with HDEO is a good choice for bike. replace 10-25% of the EO with MMO help too. currently using MMO with petrol and i kind of like it:) those commercial engine flush might be too strong for the clutch plate.

 

  Quote

No problems at all so far, loving the ability to drive off at 1.5k RPM.

 

Switched back to normal motorcycle fully synthetic oil for sustained high speed use but surprisingly some of the benefits of HDEO remain, such as the sharp clutch engagement and not stalling when clutch is deliberately engaged at very low revs.

 

At high speed I don't remember the bike running this well before HDEO use, but recall from a US discussion years ago that some people like to use diesel EO as a sort of 'flushing oil' because it's high in detergent content. Acceleration and cruising speed improved as a result, although I trade some fuel economy commuting at 110 instead of 95-100.

 

Not advisable to do this on very, very old bikes, however, as the oil may clean the engine too well leading to loss of compression.

Edited October 12, 2011 by Isopropyl

[Isopropyl]

  Suede said:

MY bike nouvo 135 eats engine oil very fast. It traveled only for near to 3000km. i went for next engine oil change, the drain out from the used engine oil is so little. Any advice what is wrong with my bike? Been using fully synthetic oil all the time.

check for leaking? Or maybe there is some mechanical problem like piston ring wear or some parts wear out that cause increase in temperature. any usual things like abnormall noise or vibrition lately? Get a mech to check for u.

 

I suggest u monitor yr current oil level closely. It a good habit to check engine oil level every 500-1000km.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

  Isopropyl said:

check for leaking? Or maybe there is some mechanical problem like piston ring wear or some parts wear out that cause increase in temperature. any usual things like abnormall noise or vibrition lately? Get a mech to check for u.

 

I suggest u monitor yr current oil level closely. It a good habit to check engine oil level every 500-1000km.

 

Hmm I am not sure what can break a Yamaha 135 engine. Those things are robust and surprisingly hi performance in the right hands.

 

What grade is your full synthetic oil? There are two things that can be happening, one is as @Isopropyl mentioned - piston ring wear causing excessive blowby, or there's something wrong with your tuning. Not sure if Nuovo is carb or EFI but wrongly tuned carb engines can run very hot on the highway causing oil to simply.. disappear (evaporate, burn off, no one knows).

 

Have you changed engine oil types frequently? What oil has less consumption and which has more? Some oils better tolerate hot running than others.

 

I'm hoping the oil is at fault, because it's a cheap fix to use another oil type and stick with it, otherwise the piston rings have to be replaced and that's a few hundred $ at least. If you want a easy FOC diagnosis maybe you may want to head over the Planet Motors - see the boss ah chong who will test ride and give honest solutions.

 

 

  Quote

Cant wait to get it into the crankcase. The next oil i dying to try is some scheaffer oil which is full of moly goodness:p but guess i have learn to control myself. My oil stock is building up in the stores and tat does not go too well with wifey

 

Yep, I resisted the temptation to stock up on Pennzoil and Amsoil last week because I found out that I can safely run up to 3,000kms or more between oil changes. The Phantom -does- have an oil filter. Two, actually; we discovered that after a kopitiam engineering session. Sticking to full synthetic oil exclusively does mean zero oil consumption and 110+ kph speed all year round without problems. The good bike oils have enough tolerance to heat that a lot of tuning experiments can be safely done.

 

From experience, Castrol and Motul don't have that tolerance to very high horsepower setups.

 

Someone also recently proposed doing some experiments on the 'magnetic oil filler cap' thing so I procured some derelict HDDs for salvage purposes. No harm and I'd like to see if the magnet would actually stick any particles in the engine :3

[Suede]

  Isopropyl said:

check for leaking? Or maybe there is some mechanical problem like piston ring wear or some parts wear out that cause increase in temperature. any usual things like abnormall noise or vibrition lately? Get a mech to check for u.

 

I suggest u monitor yr current oil level closely. It a good habit to check engine oil level every 500-1000km.

 

So far no leaking seen... only some weird knock sound from the engine... one of the mechanic suggested that i went for overhaul

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

  Suede said:

So far no leaking seen... only some weird knock sound from the engine... one of the mechanic suggested that i went for overhaul

 

High pitch clicking sound would be predetonation (too lean / overheat) while a hollow-sounding 'clonking' means the piston and/or rings are damaged. Both can cause EO loss in different ways.

 

An overheating engine sacrifices EO to protect the metal parts while damaged piston loses compression and causes excessive blowby.

 

Suggestion - fix ASAP - the damage will only worsen over time, and the constant EO loss is a hole in the wallet.

Edited October 13, 2011 by Pandora's Kitten :3