Product : Engine Oil Discussion

[kinwei]

From their data sheet, Mobil XHP LE meet ACEA E6 spec, which has a foaming limit of 10ml, 50ml, 10ml. If you can find a cheap ACEA E9 spec HDEO, that would be great because the limit has drop to 10ml, 20ml, 10ml. The lesser the foam, the better is the cooling.

 

http://www.chemcorp.co.uk/creo_files/upload/related-items/delvac_xhp_le_10w-40.pdf

 

I did saw your discussion regarding the foaming, quite Interesting. I told my friend to monitor the heat or anything out of ordinary and update me asap. Worst case, will just change the oil.

[Isopropyl]

was chating with a friend on bike maintaince about bleeding the brake and changing fork oil etc. when the topic reached EO and engine top service, he mentioned his dad is riding a 15years old Suzuki GN125 with OCI of 5,000km yet never had his engine torn open before.

 

sometime EO can go much longer then we think it can....

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

End of first week of Schaeffer - no oil consumption and no issues. Very quiet and very smooth oil.

 

For the kind of settings (and DIY modified parts) + riding style I like to run on this bike the oil temp is high enough that I can evaporate half a litre of Motul in a few days. Chex 9000 does fine and Schaeffer does even better.

 

And it's only the cheap $11 7000-series oil. 9000 would be even better?

[stsoh]

when u tuned ur carb too lean, engine will get overheated.

tuned ur carb richer...engine WILL run cooler.

 

check the spark plug electrode color;

if it is brown or tan, a/f mix is correct.

if it is white or grey, a/f mix is lean.

if it is black or sooty, a/f mix is rich.

 

many sillyporeans luv to run their bike lean.

there r many cons vs only one pro, which is 'save a penny'.

 

here r the cons:

1) overheated engine, seized to function.

2) under power.

3) cooked/evaporated engine oil will form sludge (well known as black death to engine tat block oil passage orifices).

4) when engine overheated, oil will breakdown n loss it's designed properties function thus engine wear out faster.

5) plastics, rubber seals, gaskets get hardened n leaks due to extreme heat which cause metal extreme expansions n contractions when cools.

6) emits more pollutants to atmosphere eg. carbon monoxide n nitrous oxide.

7) melted rubber sole n bike cover canvas on extremely hot muffler.

many more......

 

even u use cheap hdeo, it wont last.

do it right, set ur bike runs with correct a/f mix n solved all ur oil problems.

Edited December 6, 2011 by stsoh

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Excuse me, lets not point fingers here, some of us do tune our own carbs. And some even have precise and delicate instrumentation installed on their bikes from their own enthusiasm.

 

And when I say 'operating temperature has increased' - different oil types have different operating temperatures.

 

It's possible to have a 'rich' setting on oil A act like 'too lean' once you change to an experiment specimen B.

 

The trick is to find an oil with the desired base stock + additives that plays well with your machine's desired tune. And can withstand desired / expected operating temperature. Yes, there's such a thing. Aircooled engines are always regarded as 'prayer cooled' engines. Especially when idle. It relies on oil for most of its cooling ability. Which is why you want the most shear-stable, breakdown resistant oil available in the industry, regardless of engine condition or state of tune. It's plain problem solving engineering.

 

There's always an optimal setting for anything. I can also say that a lot of riders I know, especially on classic style or commuting air-cooled bikes, love to run their engines rich. Of course, a rich setting runs smoother, but there comes a point where up to 10% of peak horsepower is lost, and there is also the issue where some intake and exhaust designs cause the whole system to flood on highway speeds when the throttle is wide open.

 

Oh, and don't mention the backfiring that no mechanic can never solve. I don't point fingers at them and say, rich = poor tuning either. Sometimes it's the engineering limitations of the machine, or other factors like environmental temperature, that causes a momentary over-rich condition.

 

The issue is never about leanness, or richness, but here what I do is teach people how to manage engine temperature. Then people can learn how to create a lean running condition at low loads and low speeds, and enrich appropriately during accelerations and highway cruise.

 

Why settle for lean or rich when you can coach people on better and greater things, like emulating a fuel injected system?

 

That said, I have been running lean for... how long was it? About 2 years now. 46km/l peak fuel economy from an ah pek bike ™. No mechanical problems.

 

It has a rich setting too. It's just like the 'takeoff power' checklist of a piston engine aircraft. It's used for Friday nights.

 

There's another mode called 'war emergency power' - with water injection. Let me tell you that you can run VERY lean on this setting and suffer from no predetonation or deposit buildup (read up ADI / anti detonant injection tech on Reno Air race engines, to quote one example)

 

And other riders too, have their own little trade secrets. They aren't sillyporeans once you get down to details - they're passionate bikers just like you and I.

Edited December 7, 2011 by Pandora's Kitten :3

[BLACK COMET]

was chating with a friend on bike maintaince about bleeding the brake and changing fork oil etc. when the topic reached EO and engine top service, he mentioned his dad is riding a 15years old Suzuki GN125 with OCI of 5,000km yet never had his engine torn open before.

 

sometime EO can go much longer then we think it can....

 

Make sense as time. But one thing for sure. Ah Pek and us "youngster" have diff riding style.

 

Althou I am going into Ah Pek classification in a few years, I myself is also guilty of pushing the bikes to the limits:

 

1. "****! gonna kanna sandwiched! Chiong out first then say," (WOT. rev to 9000+ 100km/h in 3 sec to escape. Then drop back to 5000+ 75km/h).

 

2. "Siao! late already! (very bad excuse and example). Chiong all the way at 90+ 100 where the speed limit is 70 all the way. (3 cameras in this route.)

 

3. Red light turn to green (open throttle big). As a first bike in the traffic lights and behind u is some dreamingh driver who don't check blind spot. And enjoy weave driving.

 

Engine oil will last how long depends on the distance and riding style.

 

Guideline is 1 quart of engine oil per 50gallon of petrol. Singapore style of riding and condition, U can easily cut this by half.

 

Finally, Some ah pek, the way they ride. not more than 70 most of the time, Accelarations is like a car on a super leisure drive. I won't be surprised that the oil will last more than 5K.

[BLACK COMET]

when u tuned ur carb too lean, engine will get overheated.

tuned ur carb richer...engine WILL run cooler.

 

check the spark plug electrode color;

if it is brown or tan, a/f mix is correct.

if it is white or grey, a/f mix is lean.

if it is black or sooty, a/f mix is rich.

 

many sillyporeans luv to run their bike lean.

there r many cons vs only one pro, which is 'save a penny'.

 

here r the cons:

1) overheated engine, seized to function.

2) under power.

3) cooked/evaporated engine oil will form sludge (well known as black death to engine tat block oil passage orifices).

4) when engine overheated, oil will breakdown n loss it's designed properties function thus engine wear out faster.

5) plastics, rubber seals, gaskets get hardened n leaks due to extreme heat which cause metal extreme expansions n contractions when cools.

6) emits more pollutants to atmosphere eg. carbon monoxide n nitrous oxide.

7) melted rubber sole n bike cover canvas on extremely hot muffler.

many more......

 

even u use cheap hdeo, it wont last.

do it right, set ur bike runs with correct a/f mix n solved all ur oil problems.

 

True to a certain extent on the AF part.

 

But HDEO part I will kinda disagree with u in a certain sense.

 

IF the AF is not set properly, No amount of HDEO will solve ur bike problems of AF. But it will still improve the condition abit. But not much. maybe 5%?

 

Now if we put in another scenario. Proper AF settings. Bike mineral oil vs minieral HDEO, then The Hdeo is much more superior.

 

Same case for fully syn HDEO and and Fully syn bike oil.

 

The HDEO package, in a way cleans much better, clear soot much better and better anti-foaming agent.

 

With a TBN of 9 and above. It will definately last longer than bike specific oil.

 

However, HDEO have a higher fluid dynamic drag, U might want to to some clutch free play adjustments.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Make sense as time. But one thing for sure. Ah Pek and us "youngster" have diff riding style.

 

Althou I am going into Ah Pek classification in a few years, I myself is also guilty of pushing the bikes to the limits:

 

1. "****! gonna kanna sandwiched! Chiong out first then say," (WOT. rev to 9000+ 100km/h in 3 sec to escape. Then drop back to 5000+ 75km/h).

 

2. "Siao! late already! (very bad excuse and example). Chiong all the way at 90+ 100 where the speed limit is 70 all the way. (3 cameras in this route.)

 

3. Red light turn to green (open throttle big). As a first bike in the traffic lights and behind u is some dreamingh driver who don't check blind spot. And enjoy weave driving.

 

Engine oil will last how long depends on the distance and riding style.

 

Guideline is 1 quart of engine oil per 50gallon of petrol. Singapore style of riding and condition, U can easily cut this by half.

 

Finally, Some ah pek, the way they ride. not more than 70 most of the time, Accelarations is like a car on a super leisure drive. I won't be surprised that the oil will last more than 5K.

 

 

That high revs and you only have 850ml of oil in your Suzuki, and furthermore it's aircooled. It does explain perfectly why motorcycle oils are worked much harder and VIs will get sheared down rapidly.

 

A lower grade engine oil, like Castrol 10W40 would get sheared down real fast into something like a 10W20 beyond a certain point (let's just use classic bike rules - 1000 mile OCI), but synthetic oils like AMSOIL will survive much longer.

 

It's also interesting that some regard API SH as the best motorcycle formulation because it has less/no friction modifiers and more 'emergency' additives such as phosphorous that prevent metal to metal contact in the case of oil starvation.

 

 

That said because you need phosphorous and zinc, and improved shear stability for a bike oil it's harder to find a substitute over the more expensive popular brands of motorcycle oil.

 

Which is why we're all experimenting and posting findings

[stsoh]

........That said' date=' I have been running lean for... how long was it? About 2 years now. 46km/l peak fuel economy from an ah pek bike ™. No mechanical problems.........[/quote']

 

46km/l for old tech 2-valves 4-strokes phantom engine tat u r riding, i'm rite?

if yes, it is extremely too lean.

phantom avg fc should be around 35km/l.

u seemly write very knowledgeable stuffs but fundamental basic is zero.

even for kups avg fc should be around 40km/l, anything more than eg 50 or 60km/l r extremely lean.

 

there r a few ways for oil to disappear;

1) leakage.

2) piston blow-pass.

3) exhaust valve stem worn.

4) extreme heat cause evaporation n cook oil.

 

which do u think ur situation is?

 

by riding a bike, u r doing good to environment but running lean has adverse effects causing more damages to environment eg. more frequent oil changes, emitting more air pollutants tat poison us n creating smogs (nitrous-oxide).

trees can only absorb carbon dioxide n emits oxygen but carbon mono-oxide stay forever.

Edited December 7, 2011 by stsoh

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

46km/l for old tech 2-valves 4-strokes phantom engine tat u r riding, i'm rite?

if yes, it is extremely too lean.

phantom avg fc should be around 35km/l.

u seemly write very knowledgeable stuffs but fundamental basic is zero.

even for kups avg fc should be around 40km/l, anything more than eg 50 or 60km/l r extremely lean.

 

there r a few ways for oil to disappear;

1) leakage.

2) piston blow-pass.

3) exhaust valve stem worn.

4) extreme heat cause evaporation n cook.

 

which do u think u situation is?

 

by riding a bike, u r doing good to environment but running lean has adverse effects causing more damage to environment eg. more frequent oil changes, emitting more air pollutants tat poison us n creating smogs (nitrous-oxide).

trees can only absorb carbon dioxide n emits oxygen but carbon mono-oxide stay forever.

 

Thanks for your feedback and discussion

 

I'm actually surprised old bike can get such FCs but do take note the 46 comes from super gentle riding. The bike should not be used to go lane 1 and overtake on that lean setting, otherwise it's as you say, lean running causes the Phantom to burn out its oil rapidly at sustained higher speeds.

 

It's quite simple to keep this engine from overheating, and to detect said overheating - there's a big power loss if the engine is overheated. Managing the throttle and keeping to the specifed speed for that state of tune means I'm not running any hotter than anyone else.

 

Synthetic oil does retard the rate of oil loss due to evaporation - simple switch to Chex 9000 took care of the oil consumption issues. And it dissipated heat much faster, for a cooler running engine. Go a bit richer and Chex 9000 makes a Phantom get 38-42 km/l at 100-110kph indicated (85 GPS-95). Still decent, with a powerband that's usable by anyone.

 

It's when trying to go to insane revs (no governor on this engine) or try a 'minimum 110kph' sprint that pushed me to try out other synthetic oils like Pennzoil (works), and later on, curiousity for trying HDEO (need to test more/other brands).

 

All these different oils and testing them at different riding conditions and styles have an interesting requirement for carburetor readjustment. The optimal power band goes all over the place depends on what I want to do.

 

Now my current objective is, being recommended to try HDEOs with superior high temperature stability (such as Schaeffer), I'm looking for the most inexpensive oil for both extreme economy and maximum power settings.

 

Two test bikes are used - one for destructive testing (mine) and another Phantom with identical configuration for non-destructive 'normal' riding. Now it appears that No. 1, the destructive testbed, might survive longer than the second one owned by another rider.

 

That's despite oil change intervals as high as 5000km, various types of fuel additives, and yep, frequent over-revving day in day out (versus 'standard' 2000+km OCI for No. 2 and cautious riding).

[BLACK COMET]

46km/l for old tech 2-valves 4-strokes phantom engine tat u r riding, i'm rite?

if yes, it is extremely too lean.

phantom avg fc should be around 35km/l.

u seemly write very knowledgeable stuffs but fundamental basic is zero.

even for kups avg fc should be around 40km/l, anything more than eg 50 or 60km/l r extremely lean.

 

there r a few ways for oil to disappear;

1) leakage.

2) piston blow-pass.

3) exhaust valve stem worn.

4) extreme heat cause evaporation n cook oil.

 

which do u think ur situation is?

 

by riding a bike, u r doing good to environment but running lean has adverse effects causing more damages to environment eg. more frequent oil changes, emitting more air pollutants tat poison us n creating smogs (nitrous-oxide).

trees can only absorb carbon dioxide n emits oxygen but carbon mono-oxide stay forever.

 

Ummm. Carbon monoxide is converted into CO2 in presence of Combustion of 02 or used as an reducing agent. So it don't really stays on forever.

 

CO is not light and tends to collect at low areas. So any combustion take place will clears up CO.

[stsoh]

even u r doing 38km/l, it is still lean.

all stock bikes r set on lean.

gauge a/f mix by checking ur spark plug electrode color tone.

brown or tan is the correct a/f mix.

[stsoh]

Ummm. Carbon monoxide is converted into CO2 in presence of Combustion of 02 or used as an reducing agent. So it don't really stays on forever.

 

CO is not light and tends to collect at low areas. So any combustion take place will clears up CO.

CO can't convert to CO2 as easily as u think.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_monoxide

Edited December 7, 2011 by stsoh

[BLACK COMET]

CO can't convert to CO2 as easily as u think.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_monoxide

 

* Atmospheric presence

 

 

* Through natural processes in the atmosphere, it is eventually oxidized to carbon dioxide. Carbon monoxide concentrations are both short-lived in the atmosphere and spatially variable.

 

Well, That is what was written in Wiki? Under the atmospheric presence tab.

[BLACK COMET]

even u r doing 38km/l, it is still lean.

all stock bikes r set on lean.

gauge a/f mix by checking ur spark plug electrode color tone.

brown or tan is the correct a/f mix.

 

Paiseh in barging in for AF discussion.

 

I think it is more than that. The colour discription is correct. But I think you guys my have left out some of the details.

 

Most of the time, when you ride to bike shop and check plugs, U only check the AF for the pilot jet.

 

to do the check for AF on the main jets and needle clip possition, U have to do "Plug Chop"

 

Pilot control the AF from 0 to 1/4 of throttle position. Needle clip position controls 1/2 to 3/4 of throttle position and main control 3/4 to 4/4 position of the throttle opening.

 

Tuning the correct AF for pilot is easy. But that does not means that the bike is running rich or lean. Unless U can garantee that U never open ur throttle for more then 1/4, then adjusting AF screw is enough.

 

The correct way should be going for Jettings.

 

There is 1 rider I know do his own jettings. His a 2stroke runner with malossi block, TM24, polini speed control, gear up kit and other mods.

 

Most modd like this without proper jettings will usually give 20km/l or less.

 

But he manage to get close to 30km/l.

 

That is for water cool.

 

Another recent found fact (must admit I am abit lost touch and slow on this) This same rider told me that water cool and aircool tunning is pretty much diff. Aircool engine combustion temp is never constant like water cool. Once the temperature goes up, the current etting will behave leaner.

 

So it is correct to say in a way, temp management is important.

 

However, there's one thing most bike shop in SG overlook. Valve clearance. Valve clearance will affect FC indirectly. And move bike shop and some rider will say, No need one lah. 53000km still runs ok.

[stsoh]

yes, in general u r rite.

need to do trials n errors to find out the a/f at low n top ends.

it is still far better than running ur engine lean.....

many yrs of riding, for those bike still using carb, since stock r set at lean, i usually find out tat one step up change for slow-jet n main-jet from stock with pilot(air)-screw at 1.5 turns n jet-needle clip one slot down.....sweet on the spot.

it is much better run n ride with cooler n substantial up 5~10% more horsepower.

in this forum, many riders dun even know their engine is overheated n boastfully claim how good their fc r.

regrettable they will never truly enjoy riding a bike.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

It's true that a lot of 'shop tunes' or even factory fresh machines may be set leaner than optimal. They may be tested by factory riders after all, in colder climates.

 

However, very few to none of us are using factory-tuned vehicles or even rely on shop tuning.

 

My 38km/l settings aren't lean at all. Quite the contrary, this is the setting for daytime non-stop endurance runs at 110. The 46 setting isn't lean either - not within its intended throttle range and cruise speed.

 

I'm not going to delve into the science, and the years of engineering that has been put into a process of 'mechanical selection' - to identify a make and model of motorcycle to run fuel efficiency and engine tuning tests on, but I'll tell you this:

 

There's a certain motorcycle workshop here in Singapore that takes in used bikes. They don't care about how beat up or mistreated the machine is. They'll take it in, dismantle everything, and put it back together, bring it for inspection, then put it on the resale market at anything from 2x to 5x the market value for these veteran bikes.

 

Only if you ride one of these, then you'll know the hard work that goes into studying the design and intended usage of the bike, rebuilding it not just to sell but to improve upon its base performance - because the garage owner too, is an avid car & bike enthusiast, he'll try and match the setup to what you expect of your future bike.

 

There are no words to describe how little bits and pieces of mechanical excellence all come together to create a rebuilt machine that not only looks new, but runs better than it's new.

 

Most would post how class 2B Yamaha 2 stroke commuters usually attain 25km/l. Maybe 30 if driven with a gentle hand. This bike builder isn't satisfied with such trivial numbers. He said, why not 35?

 

And true enough the bike got 35km/l with stock gearing. And I looked at the gearing. And the driving experience with this gearing. After a while I had a new set of ratios in mind, tailored to the kind of traveling speed and acceleration demanded of Singapore traffic. A cruising speed of a Lane 1-worthy 130kph indicated. 0-100 acceleration, almost to sportsbike levels.

 

All these weren't done by lean running. The optimal powerband was drawn out on a chart, the rider's expectations roped in, and the settings optimised for that critical mid to high rev range that gives a two stroke its main thrust. Pure scientific brilliance. Getting the right carb for the job, and its jetting right was easy. What did the rest, was the rider. And constant feedback and evaluation between riders and builders. Simple.

 

That mixture of superior engine builder and a custom gearing netted 39km/l from a model that's factory rated for 30km/l, with most getting 25km/l on the street.

 

There's much more to lean or rich than just air fuel ratios. There's so much more about automotive engineering to learn about, from so many different environments and disciplines, that sticking to one single track achieves little result.

 

And so have we come full circle back to square one in last week's discussion.

 

We're testing Schaeffer 7000 and other reputedly superior engine oils. I'm running an engine and tune that took years of automotive research and painstaking internet and real-world scouting to procure. There are still things in this world that no human can explain.

 

A 10 year old bike with holes randomly drilled in it, aluminum foil clad in other areas, ridden in a destructive manner with 'not optimal' carburetor settings still getting superior fuel economy while outrunning most other machines in its class on the street - what's so special about it?

 

If people were to open their minds, apply engineering expertise from not just conventional concepts but seek to constantly improve on-hand equipment by studying works of superior craftsmanship and technology, a lot more is possible from today's motorcycles... because we are no longer limited by materials, science, or the will to learn, explore, and experiment in view of the public eye so that not just the individual can benefit from the sharing of information, but for everyone who chances upon this thread as well.

 

For those who would jump in and immediately start jumping to conclusions, instead of doing the more effective backtracking to read earlier test reports to find out experimental objectives and the means of said research, well, they are obviously not contributing anything to the topic at hand and merely stalling everyone's progress. I mean, we're evaluating engine oils based on their operating temperature using a FIXED SET OF AIR-FUEL MIXTURE SETTINGS TO AVOID CORRUPTING TEST RESULTS, what's so difficult to understand about it?

 

I don't know what to call that, but it's tantamount to being unnecessarily and unjustifyably rude.

Edited December 7, 2011 by Pandora's Kitten :3

[Isopropyl]

@Pandora's Kitten :3

 

you still using 2T for in fuel? saw this excellent and cheap product from Mxtradings. TCW3 is very popular as an fuel additive. should burn cleaner then standard 2T. was deciding between TCW3 and FP60 plus. seem to have a problem getting FP60 plus. went motorworld yesterday but it doesn't carry it any more.

 

i think race werk seriously need to update it list.

[plasticprison]

you can get fp60 at mustafa too. but racewerks is slightly cheaper.

[Isopropyl]

you can get fp60 at mustafa too. but racewerks is slightly cheaper.

 

mustafa doesn't have the plus version.

[kinwei]

mustafa doesn't have the plus version.

 

I saw some FP60 at bikeworkz. But that was more than a month ago.

[stsoh]

It's true that a lot of 'shop tunes' or even factory fresh machines may be set leaner than optimal. They may be tested by factory riders after all, in colder climates. ........

..........

we're evaluating engine oils based on their operating temperature using a FIXED SET OF AIR-FUEL MIXTURE SETTINGS TO AVOID CORRUPTING TEST RESULTS, what's so difficult to understand about it?

 

I don't know what to call that, but it's tantamount to being unnecessarily and unjustifyably rude.

 

 

lol

wat lengthy words.......still fundamentally basic is zero.

true fact is fuel saved = lesser fuel burnt = under power = overheat engine - law of physic.

u dun even know heat is the killer of oil, how knowledgeable about oil is useless.

i end my note here, forgive my rudeness but i felt the need to interrupt.

Edited December 11, 2011 by stsoh

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

@Isopropyl - thanks for the tip.

 

The TCW3 from Schaeffer? I saw that too, but didn't get it as my 2T usage is minimal now, I only use it if I want to do silly things such as go 120kph or play extreme high revs on my ah pek bike.

 

Then after talking with some friends who recommended the SPC Levo 98 petrol, I tried it too and was literally blown away - this fuel has some sort of additive package that somehow prevents 'knocking' in my engine making high RPM power significantly better. I have been using Levo almost exclusively since and am left with something like, 30ml of Shell 2t.

 

I will definitely check out the TCW rated 2T from MXTradings as, according to the American 2T enthusiasts, TCW (or marine 2T) is definitely superior and safer to use than motorcycle 2T.

 

 

ps. went to do an experimental HDEO + Schaeffer 7000 oil today based on new ideas on an oil website (mainly for the detergents and trying to get some semblance of the awesome low end torque). Running lean today the bike was really fast! Interesting! Rich carb = less power.

[Isopropyl]

@Isopropyl - thanks for the tip.

 

The TCW3 from Schaeffer? I saw that too, but didn't get it as my 2T usage is minimal now, I only use it if I want to do silly things such as go 120kph or play extreme high revs on my ah pek bike.

 

Then after talking with some friends who recommended the SPC Levo 98 petrol, I tried it too and was literally blown away - this fuel has some sort of additive package that somehow prevents 'knocking' in my engine making high RPM power significantly better. I have been using Levo almost exclusively since and am left with something like, 30ml of Shell 2t.

 

I will definitely check out the TCW rated 2T from MXTradings as, according to the American 2T enthusiasts, TCW (or marine 2T) is definitely superior and safer to use than motorcycle 2T.

 

 

ps. went to do an experimental HDEO + Schaeffer 7000 oil today based on new ideas on an oil website (mainly for the detergents and trying to get some semblance of the awesome low end torque). Running lean today the bike was really fast! Interesting! Rich carb = less power.

 

the brand is Amsoil. fully synthetic @ $14:) Amsoil HP injector is the product. yeah, in the states, when they use 2T oil as fuel additives for 4T application it will always be TCW3.

 

i have been using SPC since i got my bike due to it cheaper price:cheeky: now change to SPC 92 after starting experiment with fuel additives. currently i am using Marvel Mystery Oil with every top up and Redline SI-1 with every OCI. will be switching to TCW3 soon.

 

dying to try new oil too. too bad i still got 5L bottle of Delo 400, 5L bottle of castrol new gen, 4L bottle of Shell Helix Ultra, 4L bottle of Castrol Magnatec, 1L bottle of Pennzoil titanium and 1.5L bottle of mix oils which i use for chain lube. not to mention all those fuel additives and spray lube stuffed in the store room. wifey is not happy at all. not at all:sian:

 

longing to try Schaeffer is not helping. saw Amsoil year end sales is certainly making things worst:(

 

guess got to stay again all oil site for awhile.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

You have enough oil to last for several years of oil experiments. Though, the Helix and Magnatec are car oils? Probably be great for use on a dry-clutch bike since they are not affected by friction reducers.

 

The group bought at least 8 litres of Amsoil too at $17 per litre for testing on two Suzukis, a GSR and a DR200, great price, but I'm sticking to Schaeffer because of the low low price. Non-destructive test rider reports Schaeffer's 'moly plating' effect has kicked in too after a week or so, giving him an awesomely smooth ride.

 

Ever thought of selling off the extra oil? It can be used to fund new oil purchases, making way for new oil test projects or even getting some instrumentation. Oil temp gauge would be waaaay better than testing oil temp by hand LOL.