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Product : Engine Oil Discussion


ypvs

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More to hollow knocking sound. Will take note of your advice bro... will get it rectified a.s.a.p :D btw thanx for the help

 

High pitch clicking sound would be predetonation (too lean / overheat) while a hollow-sounding 'clonking' means the piston and/or rings are damaged. Both can cause EO loss in different ways.

 

An overheating engine sacrifices EO to protect the metal parts while damaged piston loses compression and causes excessive blowby.

 

Suggestion - fix ASAP - the damage will only worsen over time, and the constant EO loss is a hole in the wallet.

Yamaha SparkZ 110 (2004 to 2008)

Yamaha X1-R 135 (June 2008 to Feb 2009)

Gilera ST Runner 200 (Feb 2009 to I dun knw...:confused:)

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=123504&d=1252221095

 

 

Cinta takkan datang, kalau tak dicari ... Cinta takkan dapat, kalau tak memberi ...

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schnell maximax 2 100%syn...5w60

 

Those who are not used to heavy engine sound do not use this.

I always use 50wt oil.

1st time use it feels my gear change is heavier and the rest is good.

No problem to go long distance as i feel its better than 50wt except for heavy gear change.

Will post when i feel its time to change.

 

Finally got it changed today after 4000km and more than 3 months.

The heavy gear change becomes lighter and sound is lighter as such i think its time to change.

Changed to penzoil 40 WT.

I will get the big bottle when i go to AMK ntuc as i think it is worth it.

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Finally got it changed today after 4000km and more than 3 months.

The heavy gear change becomes lighter and sound is lighter as such i think its time to change.

Changed to penzoil 40 WT.

I will get the big bottle when i go to AMK ntuc as i think it is worth it.

 

I was wondering what would happen if I ever used a 60 - the pumping drag would be very high. Noticeable difference between 40, 50 and 60 especially for Japanese inline fours. Most lose power and acceleration using 50 already (super four experience). Oils tested then were OWS and Chex (apparently OWS sucks big time, avoid).

 

Also the thicker oil may not be able to flow well into smaller oil lines within the engine.

 

You just did a good textbook experiment on oil viscosity :3

 

How much is the big pennzoil from AMK?

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just did an oil change to delo 400. the big bottle is a bit clumsy to handle therefore end up spilling a good amount. also i overfill my crankcase as i not sure how much oil went in. the dip stick is not helping much too. end up spending some time cleaning up the area as much as i can. loving the oil so far. 200ppm of moly. wooooooo...:thumb:

 

guess i got to transfer the oil to small bottle first next round.

 

got to change coolant soon. it been 1year.

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I was wondering what would happen if I ever used a 60 - the pumping drag would be very high. Noticeable difference between 40, 50 and 60 especially for Japanese inline fours. Most lose power and acceleration using 50 already (super four experience). Oils tested then were OWS and Chex (apparently OWS sucks big time, avoid).

 

Also the thicker oil may not be able to flow well into smaller oil lines within the engine.

 

You just did a good textbook experiment on oil viscosity :3

 

How much is the big pennzoil from AMK?

 

I mean the big bottle is the WT60 oil.

I have not got the WT60 big bottle yet.

I feel it is very good for long distance but i do not like the dragging feel during changing of gears.

The Pennzoil i got is small bottle for 18dollars per bottle.

I am starting to have a relax ride using WT40 oil as i feel the engine is not dragging hard.

Now i will prefer to have a WT40 oil.

Maybe will try carlube big bottle after Pennzoil.

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  • 2 weeks later...

thinking of trying out carlube fully sync motorcycle engine oil for some time and today saw the price drop to 7.90 per litre at amk hub ntuc with a further 20% discount (6.32 final price), cant resist and bought 2 bottles. will try it out on the next oil change on my cbf150. any cbf150 users tried the carlube fully sync? or any riders tried in on their air cooled engines ?

Monster Energy......CBF150........

"'Chances Favored The Prepared Mind"

"Your Ambition outweighs Your Talent!"

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thinking of trying out carlube fully sync motorcycle engine oil for some time and today saw the price drop to 7.90 per litre at amk hub ntuc with a further 20% discount (6.32 final price), cant resist and bought 2 bottles. will try it out on the next oil change on my cbf150. any cbf150 users tried the carlube fully sync? or any riders tried in on their air cooled engines ?

 

i use it for my spark 135 before. pretty decent oil although there are some negative reviews. i saw the offer too and damn tempted to get a few bottles. i got until 31 oct to consider:cheeky:

 

either the oil has a formula change or they just updated their rating. it used to be API SG but now SL rated. so good luck with the oil.

 

oh... as with all oil with high VI, it might not be as shear stable as others. so keep the OCI reasonable.

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thinking of trying out carlube fully sync motorcycle engine oil for some time and today saw the price drop to 7.90 per litre at amk hub ntuc with a further 20% discount (6.32 final price), cant resist and bought 2 bottles. will try it out on the next oil change on my cbf150. any cbf150 users tried the carlube fully sync? or any riders tried in on their air cooled engines ?

 

It thin pretty fast....I brought 3 bottles used on my R6 before....After 2000km become very thin....But at less than $20 per oil change...Nothing to lose

Bikes Owned: LC125 RXZ135 GSXR400RP CB400VS CB400Spec2 SV650 02CBRF4i FZ1000 CBR929 05YZF-R6 CBR150 HondaSonic125 Yamaha_CygnusX125 KymcoGrandink_250 Hornet_250 04_Yamaha_Tmax Silverwing 400 FZ6_S2 GSXR600K7

 

Current bikes: NIL

Gear 4th

http://45.media.tumblr.com/f183dbd75b05df79cf6f77dba98d7339/tumblr_o1sqbk4h8Z1s5rcozo1_400.gif

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys,

 

I went to my usual shop in AMK that sells Chex 9000, just hoping that he might have some stock but didnt have.

 

However, I found Shell Advance 4T fully synthetic 15W50 for just 20$ there. Giant is selling the same EO for 26$. I think good value for money at 20$

May '10 - Jun '11 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG2

Jul '11 - Jan '12 : Honda Phantom TA200

Feb '12 - Jul '12 : Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi UG3

Aug '12 - Current : Bajaj Pulsar 200 DTSi

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http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/IMG_2554.jpg

 

Look what i stocked up..

Lucky enough to find a clearance and wiped them all out :D

 

Reviews here!

http://www.hdforums.com/forum/oil-and-oil-related-topics/372172-went-to-oil-test-schaeffers-oil-blew-them-all-away.html

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

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wow! thats a lot! guess u got it pretty cheap huh? is that wet-clutch compatible or car EO? hope its gd for ur steed... :)

 

i was jus trying out the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 from MXTRADINGS... $18 for a fully-synthetic n works great on my air-cooled phantom!

 

those wif inline-fours can try out the 10W40 for the same prices as well..

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

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Written on the website and it is approved for motorcycle use with the rating. HD reviews from other countries has nothing but good review on them. Im on the royal purple 10w40 sae now and i like it.

 

Reason i stock it up is because of the moly content, reviews and the price ;)

 

Engine oil is cheap insurance for you engine (:

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

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can anyone recommend which is the best engine oil for cubs??im riding x1-r..and using motul 5100 10W50 now the engine feel like rough when im riding..

 

Is the 50-weight oil dragging down your top end acceleration? Try a 'lighter' grade like 10W40. Synthetic will give you superior protection with a lighter weight oil. Check the yamaha manual - does it specifically recommend 10W40 as the standard recommendation?

 

There are some liquid cooled bikes on the market which lose up to 10% of horsepower if the wrong oil grade is used. And the spark is liquid cooled, hence the above suggestion. 300V is good but expensive, you pay for what you get.

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Is the 50-weight oil dragging down your top end acceleration? Try a 'lighter' grade like 10W40. Synthetic will give you superior protection with a lighter weight oil. Check the yamaha manual - does it specifically recommend 10W40 as the standard recommendation?

 

There are some liquid cooled bikes on the market which lose up to 10% of horsepower if the wrong oil grade is used. And the spark is liquid cooled, hence the above suggestion. 300V is good but expensive, you pay for what you get.

 

allrite bro..thanks for the advice..maybe im using the wrong oil grade..appreciate ur advice bro.. :)

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http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/IMG_2554.jpg

 

Look what i stocked up..

Lucky enough to find a clearance and wiped them all out :D

 

Reviews here!

http://www.hdforums.com/forum/oil-and-oil-related-topics/372172-went-to-oil-test-schaeffers-oil-blew-them-all-away.html

 

got from lubeszone? those are excellent oil. wanted to get some myself too before i settle with Delo 400. 300ppm of moly!!! enjoy...

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guys after installing an oil temperature meter on my phantom, i realise HDEO (delvac mx 15w40) might nt be as good for an air-cooled engine.. despite its good lubrication properties, i was seeing 125-130 degrees on the highway (110kph on meter).. too high for comfort..

 

after changing to mobil 1 v-twin 20w50, im seeing max 110 degrees at d same speeds.. im nt sure isit the weight that makes the delvac rly thin & less efficient in cooling, or its d better synthetic properties of the mobil 1.

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

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allrite bro..thanks for the advice..maybe im using the wrong oil grade..appreciate ur advice bro.. :)

 

if you are using 300V, keep it for a good 4,000-5,000km or more if you are advanturous. i have a friend who do a 10,000km oil change with his spark 135. not something i will ever do without UOA. just do the oil some justice and don't dump it too early.

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if you are using 300V, keep it for a good 4,000-5,000km or more if you are advanturous. i have a friend who do a 10,000km oil change with his spark 135. not something i will ever do without UOA. just do the oil some justice and don't dump it too early.

 

then if i were to do full service..must still change the engine oil rite?

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guys after installing an oil temperature meter on my phantom, i realise HDEO (delvac mx 15w40) might nt be as good for an air-cooled engine.. despite its good lubrication properties, i was seeing 125-130 degrees on the highway (110kph on meter).. too high for comfort..

 

after changing to mobil 1 v-twin 20w50, im seeing max 110 degrees at d same speeds.. im nt sure isit the weight that makes the delvac rly thin & less efficient in cooling, or its d better synthetic properties of the mobil 1.

 

intersting. this is the 2nd time such issue is reported which i have never heard of in other bike forums. both invovle in swithing from 40wt HDEO to 50wt bike specific oil. may i know where is the temperature located at?

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then if i were to do full service..must still change the engine oil rite?

 

depend on what your "full service" inculde. chance are anything that mess with engine you will need to change the oil.

 

for engine oil, as long as you are not modding the engine or running it hard most of the time, any quality oil will do. changing it regularly is the key. ask any of your biker friends do they have any engine failure due to engine oil and chances are you will find none even with cheap mineral oil.

 

motul 300v is good stuff. but way too expensive for something which very likely won't bring you mearsureable benefit for day to day usage.

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