Product : Engine Oil Discussion

[naim]

Cant just look at the numbers really. If possible, find out their actual viscosity numbers (i tink is cst). Im using redline 5w40 (car type), but turned out is actually thicker than the 10w40 motorcycle version (in fact their 0w40 also thicker). The weight numbers cover quite a wide range.

[darknessfear]

Ur cbr400 has a 4-cylinder engine. Just stick to the better brands like motul or maxima and preferably 40wt spec. Should be best compromise between protection and performance.

 

HDEO = heavy duty engine oil. Its meant for heavy vehicles. Its good enough for huge diesel engines w/ turbos, should be gd enough for our small engines. Cant find at bike shop, only at petrol kiosks.

 

More for DIYer, because i doubt bikeshop mechanic will chg for u. Confirm will swear and curse at u for using lorry oil. More info, u can scroll back to the earlier pages. Lots more discussion on this was done.

 

hahaha lorry oil... thx forinfo.. but i dont think cbr400 needs to put those HDEO lah... abit over reacting haha.. but thanks for info!

 

If you indeed wish to try maxima, motul 300v full synthetic ester stuff, your bike might be consuming engine oil and you might need to top up every now and then. Bet your CBR is old and thus with the worn out rings and all, won't get good seal. Just so you know.

 

I used to use chex9000 full syn and castrol power 1 semi syn on my previous S4, it was good for its price.

 

Xue ling: let me know how the ipone performed. I know it's ester based but for its price, was thinking if I'm better off with power 1 racing or maxima extra

 

you mention about topping up EO!! i dont even know i need to do that! No wonder my exhaust has been spitting small small black oil. but my mech say it doesnt matter. Need to check soon..

But i am thinking of maxima and motorex.. really a hard choice. and its fully syn. i wouldnt put semi syn..

[slayer2cool]

From what I read, it's good to avoid those ultra thin oils at low temp, 0wX, 5wX etc. especially those with very wide viscosity range cos those oils has a lot of VIs and they don't last as long in our engine, thus the oil loses its viscosity faster. Unless you get those really good and branded stuff.

[HaiR1]

Anyone have tried Carlube fully synthetic 5w40?

 

Any feedback?

 

 

 

Exceed API SN

 

Retail at $8.80/1 litre or $40.60/5Litre

[hachi]

http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-12146-10W-40-4-Stroke-Motorcycle/dp/B002IANOR6/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1374978125&sr=8-10&keywords=motorcycle+oil

 

Anyone interested. Pack of 12 plus shipping cost 6.50SGD only mineral oils. Cheap and good. But need 125 US before it can be qualify to ship for free.

[slayer2cool]

Usd125 is a lot of oil hahaha. Can go bukit Merah lane auto car pte ltd, opposite hup sin, they sell castrol at low prices. 9.50 for castrol activ, 13.50 for power 1 and 19 for power 1 racing

[slayer2cool]

Double post*******

Edited July 28, 2013 by slayer2cool

[naim]

hahaha lorry oil... thx forinfo.. but i dont think cbr400 needs to put those HDEO lah... abit over reacting haha.. but thanks for info!

 

you mention about topping up EO!! i dont even know i need to do that! No wonder my exhaust has been spitting small small black oil. but my mech say it doesnt matter. Need to check soon..

But i am thinking of maxima and motorex.. really a hard choice. and its fully syn. i wouldnt put semi syn..

 

Not overreacting. HDEO is cheap and good!

 

I suggest check ur EO level often. If need regular topup, it could mean ur piston rings are worn out. In this case, u can use mineral or semi-syn to reduce this effect before u do the repairs. They will work fine, just reduce ur ool change interval. Synthetics are nt ideal in older and worn-out engines.

[slayer2cool]

Agreed. Most cases old engines will drink full synthetic sooner or later unless rings are changed. End up it could be more cost effective to use mineral oil. Haha. hDEO I read from some articles due to high level of detergent that may be bad for our bikes. I don't know ah haha I prefer my bottle to have a bike picture on it

[naim]

Then make a sticker and paste la, but will offset the cost. Haha. Yes it has high amounts of detergents (which is good mah) but not those that will spoil seals or bearings. Diesel engine materials mostly similar ah.

[HimQQ]

http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-12146-10W-40-4-Stroke-Motorcycle/dp/B002IANOR6/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1374978125&sr=8-10&keywords=motorcycle+oil

 

Anyone interested. Pack of 12 plus shipping cost 6.50SGD only mineral oils. Cheap and good. But need 125 US before it can be qualify to ship for free.

 

Don't qualify for the Global Eligible Free saver Shipping option.

as does not meet 1 of its requirements.

[Hydher]

Anyone have tried Carlube fully synthetic 5w40?

 

Any feedback?

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]284340[/ATTACH]

 

Exceed API SN

 

Retail at $8.80/1 litre or $40.60/5Litre

 

From previous discussion

His engine felt sluggish and when drained, it was like water

[Isopropyl]

Anyone have tried Carlube fully synthetic 5w40?

 

Any feedback?

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]284340[/ATTACH]

 

Exceed API SN

 

Retail at $8.80/1 litre or $40.60/5Litre

 

for bike, try to avoid anything that have such a wide viscosity spread like 5w40. it get chew up by the transmission in no time.

[slayer2cool]

for bike, try to avoid anything that have such a wide viscosity spread like 5w40. it get chew up by the transmission in no time.

 

Agreed, the VI may not last.

[Isopropyl]

the common understanding is that Engine Oil(EO) is make by using a thin oil and viscosity index improver(VII) is added to thicken it up. hence the widen the spread, the thinner the base oil and the more VII have to be added. we all know too much VII is not a good thing for motorcycle oil as VII polymers usually get destroyed through the motorcycle transmission gear and the EO thin rapidly.

 

that is half the picture. EO is usually make up of at least 2 grades of base oils or more. some EO may have more then 10 grades of base oils in order to achieve it desired properties especially synthetic oil hence it is much more difficult to formula a good synthetic oil then a mineral based oil.

 

for example, a simple binary EO or a 2 base oils EO normally make use of the base oils to control it viscosity as well. normally there will be a thin and thick base oil mix. the thin oil serve to improve flow during low temperature and the thicken oil is used to prevent the EO from thinning too much at high temperature. so to control viscosity, VII is not the only factor come into play. the industry is moving forward to using base oils to control the properties of the EO. for example, i sure some of you have notice that motul flagship oil 300V is phrasing out for their new range of oil called "Ester Core" through the advertisement here. They are replacing traditional metal based additives with organic based solution like different types of ester oil to improve the oil properties but that another story.

 

some types of EO used thicker base oils and add pour point depressants to spread the viscosity range of an EO instead of using a thinning base oil and adding VII to it. there are quite a number of ways for the tribologist to design a multi-grade oil.

[HaiR1]

for bike, try to avoid anything that have such a wide viscosity spread like 5w40. it get chew up by the transmission in no time.

 

 

Currently using on my Spec3

[slayer2cool]

the common understanding is that Engine Oil(EO) is make by using a thin oil and viscosity index improver(VII) is added to thicken it up. hence the widen the spread, the thinner the base oil and the more VII have to be added. we all know too much VII is not a good thing for motorcycle oil as VII polymers usually get destroyed through the motorcycle transmission gear and the EO thin rapidly.

 

that is half the picture. EO is usually make up of at least 2 grades of base oils or more. some EO may have more then 10 grades of base oils in order to achieve it desired properties especially synthetic oil hence it is much more difficult to formula a good synthetic oil then a mineral based oil.

 

for example, a simple binary EO or a 2 base oils EO normally make use of the base oils to control it viscosity as well. normally there will be a thin and thick base oil mix. the thin oil serve to improve flow during low temperature and the thicken oil is used to prevent the EO from thinning too much at high temperature. so to control viscosity, VII is not the only factor come into play. the industry is moving forward to using base oils to control the properties of the EO. for example, i sure some of you have notice that motul flagship oil 300V is phrasing out for their new range of oil called "Ester Core" through the advertisement here. They are replacing traditional metal based additives with organic based solution like different types of ester oil to improve the oil properties but that another story.

 

some types of EO used thicker base oils and add pour point depressants to spread the viscosity range of an EO instead of using a thinning base oil and adding VII to it. there are quite a number of ways for the tribologist to design a multi-grade oil.

 

Supposed that's where brands and quality comes in. Haha though I did read an online tests that showed even for good brands like motul, when it comes to stuff like 5w40, oil stil get thins out rather quickly. Though perhaps the test was somewhat dated so who knows with the new formula for their 300V it might be different. Too bad it's like 30 bucks a bottle argh

[naim]

If im not wrong, redline or motul 300v being mainly made of ester base already has a good viscosity spread. So even for example their 5w40, they dont rly nd to add any VI to the oil.

 

I strongly support redline. $20 for quality ester oil (if u hv wet clutch. scooter like mine can go for the car versions @ $17.50). Great alternative to the awesome but wayyyyy overpriced 300v.

[HaiR1]

Supposed that's where brands and quality comes in. Haha though I did read an online tests that showed even for good brands like motul, when it comes to stuff like 5w40, oil stil get thins out rather quickly. Though perhaps the test was somewhat dated so who knows with the new formula for their 300V it might be different. Too bad it's like 30 bucks a bottle argh

 

 

 

Even iPone now coming up with 5w40

[HaiR1]

Supposed that's where brands and quality comes in. Haha though I did read an online tests that showed even for good brands like motul, when it comes to stuff like 5w40, oil stil get thins out rather quickly. Though perhaps the test was somewhat dated so who knows with the new formula for their 300V it might be different. Too bad it's like 30 bucks a bottle argh

 

 

 

Even iPone now coming up with 5w40

[Isopropyl]

Even iPone now coming up with 5w40

 

it still great in a way for rider who do mainly short trip of less then 10mins where the EO will hardly raise to operation temperature or in some bikes that can get away with lower viscosity like Honda bikes from 2006 onwards which called for a 30wt oil.

 

for bikes that depend on viscosity to protect itself, that are alot of better choices out there.

[HaiR1]

it still great in a way for rider who do mainly short trip of less then 10mins where the EO will hardly raise to operation temperature or in some bikes that can get away with lower viscosity like Honda bikes from 2006 onwards which called for a 30wt oil.

 

for bikes that depend on viscosity to protect itself, that are alot of better choices out there.

 

 

 

 

Noted.. Thanks man..

 

 

Will change to maxima extra 10w-40 soon..

 

 

Currently about 500km on Carlube 5w-40

[HaiR1]

it still great in a way for rider who do mainly short trip of less then 10mins where the EO will hardly raise to operation temperature or in some bikes that can get away with lower viscosity like Honda bikes from 2006 onwards which called for a 30wt oil.

 

for bikes that depend on viscosity to protect itself, that are alot of better choices out there.

 

 

 

 

Noted.. Thanks man..

 

 

Will change to maxima extra 10w-40 soon..

 

 

Currently about 500km on Carlube 5w-40

[Isopropyl]

If im not wrong, redline or motul 300v being mainly made of ester base already has a good viscosity spread. So even for example their 5w40, they dont rly nd to add any VI to the oil.

 

I strongly support redline. $20 for quality ester oil (if u hv wet clutch. scooter like mine can go for the car versions @ $17.50). Great alternative to the awesome but wayyyyy overpriced 300v.

 

unfortunely, no one really know the ester percentage in motul flagship oil. i read that it range from 9% to 20% with the rest make up of PAO and Group III oil when some guys did some gas chromatography or got information from God know where. of course we should take it with a pinch of salt for such information. the important thing is motul is a great and proven oil for those that is willing to spend although i don't see a need for most riders. what we know in the new oil from what i gather is:

1) alot less traditional anti-wear like ZDDP and moly

2) alot less detergent

3) using multi-ester base oil as anti-wear

4) very "mixable" with other oil

5) improve performance and is now more of a "race oil" then "street oil" like 300V

6) Very little to no VII polymers

7) it still bloodly expensive:cheeky:

 

Redline oil have about 60% ester and the rest make up of PAO. it a stout oil. if you are just into ester oil, you can't go wrong with Redline or Maxima.

 

of course synthetic base oils does not ensure that it is a great performance or mineral base oil is a tell tales the oil is not good. it really about the whole package.

[slayer2cool]

what my friend told me about redline is its just so-so only. bring to track and after that, it doesnt feel as good anymore. but agreed, maxima and redline are the cheaper alternatives for those who are looking for ester based oils. im not too familar with redline but i know with maxima they also fortified with lots and lots of ZDDP to an extend it will never meet API SJ and above requirement. hahaha but i gess if you dont really give a damn about your cat converter, its fine. redline and motul i guess relies on other "technology" to offer protection. but im suprised the new formula for 300V is more of race oil than street. i wont want to use race oil in my bike. hahaha

 

i think Group III isnt so bad nowdays, has come a long way and improved alot but i think too much of a good thing can be bad too so maybe that why motul dont really use that much ester hahaha. and i guess psychologically when you see the word motul, castrol or maxima on race competition bike, you really would think it be the best stuff but honestly i dont know why but i feel american company cant really make good high tech oils. lol