Sportsters Riders

[ZeeWan]

Just to answer your question, I don't think it's ok. Cos efi is still an efi. It will only hurt e engine more just because u want a carb sound....if u want carb, get a carb engine....efi engine needs to run at higher rpm unless he got a tuner then it's different. But engine check light is not good

 

Thank you NiteKidz! Well it took me a few months to thank you. I bought the bike anyways. I followed my guts. The mechanic was telling the truth. Once he installed the sensor, the check light was gone. After a few months of riding, there is one code that came out. P1032. Thats the only code. But overall, the bike runs great! Any tips on this?

[Brenden]

Thank you NiteKidz! Well it took me a few months to thank you. I bought the bike anyways. I followed my guts. The mechanic was telling the truth. Once he installed the sensor, the check light was gone. After a few months of riding, there is one code that came out. P1032. Thats the only code. But overall, the bike runs great! Any tips on this?

 

Agree with Nitekidz...a good video on the dangers of making EFI engine sound like carb http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hDxBc4Fnlw... 5:45 onwards.. basically the engine is not designed to run like a carb engine. Maybe ur mechanic is right, its ok for the bike, but u wont know until he take it apart. And even if he does, and there is damage, will he honestly admit that it is due to the low idling setting?? No checklight doesnt means its not causing any damage bro..

Edited May 2, 2014 by Brenden

[ezzyoiler]

p1032..is related to oxygen sensor fault..the following article may be of interest to you..

 

[h=1]Oxygen Sensor Codes: Avoiding The Common Pitfalls[/h] Oxygen Sensors, otherwise referred to as O2 Sensors, and their related check engine light codes, can be troublesome at the very best! Today we discuss the design and function of these sensors, and some of the pitfalls encountered during the diagnosis of their related fault codes.

 

It seems as though the check engine light and O2 Sensor codes have always gone hand in hand. I can't even begin to tell you how many perfectly good sensors I've seen replaced for a rich/lean code, or as a cure to a service engine light that comes and goes. Fact is, when oxygen sensors were first being used, they did tend to fail. But manufacturers have been redesigning and tweaking these parts for over twenty years, and nowadays they are fairly bullet proof! Oxygen sensor codes no longer mean "replace the oxygen sensor", and this mindset can be costly! So what goes wrong during the diagnosis of these systems? Well, let me share my experience and you can take it for what it's worth!

 

Nearly all engine control systems are comprised of multiple sub-systems. These sub-systems each depend on correct input from other areas of the electronic engine control system in order to perform their individual tasks properly. Confused yet? Keep reading, it'll make sense soon! There are a large number of codes relating to oxygen sensor faults. There are also a lot of faults that are often incorrectly thought to be caused by a bad oxygen sensor (also referred to as an O2 Sensor). The O2 codes relating to circuit faults can be tested fairly easily. For help on these codes, check out our Generic OBDII list and definitely read our article on diagnosing the wiring related portion of a trouble code. You will also run into codes for the O2 heater circuits. Newer O2 sensors have heaters as part of their design. This allows them to get up to temperature quicker and begin functioning sooner, resulting in lower overall vehicle emissions. If you ever need specific in depth code help, use the "Get Help" link and we can run down the basics with you as needed. The codes that may give you more of a run for your money are the PO171-P0175 generic (or similar manufacturer specific) codes. These codes tell you that despite the computers attempts to correct fuel trim (the amount of time the injectors stay on, delivering more or less fuel as needed); it can not obtain the correct air/fuel ratio. These are known as rich and lean codes, and almost as often as I've seen new oxygen sensors installed for these codes, I've seen the same vehicles need re-diagnosis!

First we need to understand how an oxygen sensor works. The oxygen sensor screws into the exhaust and the sensor end protrudes into the pipe so that exhaust gases pass across the sensors internal element. There is a steel shielding with slots that direct exhaust flow across the actual element. As a note, oxygen sensors used to determine engine fuel ratios are always located in front of the catalytic converter. The sensors behind the cats are called monitors and we will discuss these later. Sensors are normally described with the prefix HO2S meaning Heated Oxygen Sensor and followed with bank and position number. For example HO2S11 would be the oxygen sensor on bank 1 and first in line (pre catalytic converter) and HO2S12 would be on bank 1, but second in line (the monitor) An oxygen sensor creates a voltage between 0 and 1 volt by means of a chemical reaction between the sensor element and the oxygen in the exhaust passing across that element. Outside air also passes through the sensor and it is a comparison between the oxygen content in the exhaust and fresh air that actually determines voltage output (information for trivial purposes only and for curious techs). Believe it or not, the fresh air on many sensors actually travels through the wiring insulation! Anyway, a voltage closer to one volt indicates a rich condition and closer to zero indicates lean. The computer uses this valve to constantly adjust fuel trim to maintain a 14.7:1 air fuel ratio. We will be putting up an article on fuel trim soon but this is a huge topic all on its own. Okay so this is where it gets somewhat complicated. Just kidding! It's all nuts and bolts; and wires, and chemicals and never mind!

Okay so the more oxygen in the exhaust (lean condition) the lower the voltage from the O2 sensor and the more fuel the computer calls for. Then the oxygen content in the exhaust drops (because it is being used up in the combustion process), and the voltage increases (rich condition) and the process repeats, for as long as the car is running, hundreds of times a minute. A gasoline internal combustion engine needs oxygen to burn the fuel. If the mixture is ideal (or 14.7:1) then all of the oxygen is consumed as the fuel is burned. The exact amount of fuel needed to produce a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio varies with barometric pressure (altitude), relative humidity and fuel quality and condition; thus the need for oxygen sensors.

 

So knowing all of this what should we check when we have those pesky rich or lean codes? The most common issues for lean codes are:

 

1. Vacuum leaks - check for failed or loose vacuum lines, leaking intake gaskets, intake air tubes loose or any other source of un-metered air leaks (leaks after the Mass Air Flow Sensor)

2. Restricted fuel filter or bent/pinched fuel system lines

3. Incorrect input from other sensors, such as the Mass Air Flow Sensor, which may not always drop a separate code

4. Engine misfire - Yes I know this one may seem weird. You might think that if there is a misfire then you will have all that unburned fuel and it should read rich; right? Well the O2 sensors read only oxygen content in the exhaust, so if you have all that unburned fuel from incomplete combustion then, you guessed it, you also have all that unburned oxygen. High O2 content in exhaust equals a lean reading!

There are also some other possibilities such as an internally leaking EGR system, (but this will typically set a separate code). A leak in the exhaust system before the O2 sensor will also cause incorrect readings. And always check for after- market modifications. These can throw a wrench into the works! The only other possibilities (however unlikely), are wiring issues, computer concerns or a bad O2 sensor! There now that I've said it, on to rich codes.

The possible causes of rich codes are:

 

1. A leaking or faulty fuel injector

2. Fuel injector driver in computer shorted, or wiring short for injectors (likely a ground short)

3. Leaking or faulty fuel pressure regulator or restricted return line

4. Faulty evaporative emissions system - bleeding fuel vapors into engine (not commanded by computer)

5. On newer models a faulty fuel pump or fuel pump driver module

6. Faulty readings from other sensors such as a Mass Air Flow Sensor. You may actually be getting more air than the MAF tells the computer

7. Exhaust leaks before the sensor will cause erratic readings

8. After market components or performance chips

9. And yes, if I dare say it, possibly a computer, wiring issue or even a faulty O2 sensor!

The other codes we should address are those related to the sensors located after the catalytic converter. Though these may appear identical to the oxygen sensors pre-converter, they perform an entirely different task and are known as Monitors. The only job of these sensors is to "monitor" the efficiency of the catalytic converters. The readings from these sensors should be much more stable and not fluctuating like the front O2 sensors. The computer compares the readings from the oxygen sensors (pre cats) and the monitors (post cat) to determine if the catalytic converters are doing their job and "cleaning" the exhaust. You never want to replace a monitor for a rich/lean concern as they have no bearing on these codes. As the converters begin to fail, you will see the monitors voltage readings follow the oxygen sensor readings. Technically these are all "oxygen sensors" but it is important to distinguish the difference between pre-converter & post converter sensors, so I find it easiest to stick to calling the back ones monitors.

And that pretty much wraps up my ideas on this topic. If you've run into other causes of these codes for gasoline engines then use the contact form and educate me! The quickest way to learn is through somebody else's experience! Hope we helped to shed some light.

The engine-light-help.com Team

Back To Top Of Oxygen Sensor Codes Diagnosis Help Page

[ZeeWan]

anyone knows of xr1200 or xr1200x for sale kindly sms me at 98416525 thankyou . Genuine buyer

 

Agree with Nitekidz...a good video on the dangers of making EFI engine sound like carb http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hDxBc4Fnlw... 5:45 onwards.. basically the engine is not designed to run like a carb engine. Maybe ur mechanic is right, its ok for the bike, but u wont know until he take it apart. And even if he does, and there is damage, will he honestly admit that it is due to the low idling setting?? No checklight doesnt means its not causing any damage bro..

 

Hi Brenden! Yup. I am aware of the damage that the low idling might cause. Anyway, I was concern with this and that was the reason why I told the mechanic to reinstall the original sensor. Currently I am running with the sensor and the idling is back to normal since the day I took the bike home. No more low idling for me for the moment. Hehe. But the main concern now is the P1032 code. Currently trying to troubleshoot the problem.

 

Hi ezzyoiler! Thank you very much. A very useful article there. Thanks for sharing this to us. I hope I can troubleshoot this problem anytime soon!

 

Anyways, any of you guys here are planning to order anything from J&P cycles or some other websites?

Edited May 2, 2014 by ZeeWan

[Brenden]

Hi Brenden! Yup. I am aware of the damage that the low idling might cause. Anyway, I was concern with this and that was the reason why I told the mechanic to reinstall the original sensor. Currently I am running with the sensor and the idling is back to normal since the day I took the bike home. No more low idling for me for the moment. Hehe. But the main concern now is the P1032 code. Currently trying to troubleshoot the problem.

 

Hi ezzyoiler! Thank you very much. A very useful article there. Thanks for sharing this to us. I hope I can troubleshoot this problem anytime soon!

 

Anyways, any of you guys here are planning to order anything from J&P cycles or some other websites?

 

haha there is always a never ending list of things I want to buy:D...yah some from J&P, consolidating shipping?

[ZeeWan]

haha there is always a never ending list of things I want to buy:D...yah some from J&P, consolidating shipping?

 

Well I might. But I am not familiar with online shopping. I would prefer someone who is more familiar to be the one ordering though...

[Brenden]

Well I might. But I am not familiar with online shopping. I would prefer someone who is more familiar to be the one ordering though...

 

I see, I buy most of my stuff from US...check your PM, maybe i can help u

[tempest]

It is indeed cheaper to buy online. I shopped on Amazon to get my stuff. But the freight directly from individual vendors would be very costly. If you guys have a Citibank credit card, use this service called Borderlinx. Go to http://www.borderlinx.com.

 

What this service does is to provide you a mailing address in the US. So when you buy on Amazon or eBay, just indicate your address provided by Borderlinx. You can buy multiple items, consolidate them and ship them to Singapore at a very affordable price. I bought 4 items in all and it only cost me S$34. Remember to look for the lowest total price when you buy. That means product price + shipping price.

 

This is the most cost effective way for me. Anyone with a better idea please do share.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[fazerocks]

Any shop to recommend to chg tyre for my iron?

 

1yr old bike original tyre slippery already.

 

Will it void warranty to chg outside while still under 2yrs.

 

Thanks for any info.

[skyblueblue]

Happy 2014 Sporster Riders

 

Heidenau Singapore would like to introduce the new model for the cruiser market. Heidenau K65.

 

K65 is equipped with heavy duty side walls and soft compounds, it provide the weight support for popular Harley Davidsion models as well as Metric models.

 

Heidenau Germany has already proven themselves to produced quality tyres for the Adventure Touring and scooter segment. We expect the same result k65 will bring to the Cruiser market.

 

Popular sizes as below:

130/90 B 16 M/C

150/80 B 16 M/C

100/90 - 19 M/C

110/90 - 19 M/C

80/90 - 21 M/C

MH 90 - 21 M/C

and many more for sportster.

 

For the introduction of K65, we are delighted to give you sportster riders from SBF, this great introductory prices for your chopper, crusiers.

 

Enquire with us via Facebook or contact our sales guy directly at +65 9668 9088 (John)

 

Facebook Heidenau Tyre Singapore

 

Try this

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[tommyyeo]

Hi,

changing tyres won't void your warranty.

[whitewall]

Hi, anyone changed their clutch plates before? Any idea how much it cost? Thanks

Edited June 4, 2014 by whitewall

[Bay]

Hi all, I just got my 883Iron recently. Was wondering if anyone is keen on a meet-up kopi session? And maybe a short ride afterwards?

[NiteKidz]

Hi all, I just got my 883Iron recently. Was wondering if anyone is keen on a meet-up kopi session? And maybe a short ride afterwards?

 

New or used? How much u got it?

[Bay]

I bought it 2nd hand, 2 years bike. So is there a whatsapp group or something for us sportster riders?

[sgstarrider]

Hi Harley riders,

I m in process of getting a '95 XLH883 & looking for stock exhaust, stock dual seat & stock rear fender for this model.

If you hav or know of any bros selling 'em, please PM me asap.

 

Thank you.

[Nqcf]

Hi fellow sportster,

 

I looking for a 883 iron, preferable the orange color.. Any one have the contacts pls pm me.

 

Tks in advance

[Costa]

Sportster Stuff for Cheap Sale.

 

1) Original Iron handlebar (Almost New) - $50

2) Throttle cable from HD (New) - $100

3) Pillion foot pegs (New) - $150

4) OEM White Nostalgic hand grips (New) - $50

5) A pair of unique white Solo Springer Seat with 3" barrel (New) - $120 each

 

Interested buyer pls call/sms 92466888.

Edited August 5, 2014 by Costa

[DrRipper]

Hi,

 

Looking for Harley Windshield Docking Hardware Kit Part Number 58164-96 for 39 mm fork as well as a spare 2-up seat for 04-up sportster with 4.5 gal tank.

 

PM me if you have one for sale. Thanks.

[jamez]

Hi folks, any of you seeking to have factory black rocker top box covers, gearcase covers and primary cover? Looking to swap with POLISHED covers in reasonably good condition. to swap with an 09 883r so 04 onwards sportsters should do the trick. You pay your own labour I pay my own. To be done at dealer. An opportunity to save some money (If you intend to buy) and effort (if you intend to paint). The engine covers are stock from the 883r so quality of the paint is factory assured. Let me know. Cheers.

[bobster]

hi all, just got myself a 09 XR1200.

anyone has parts for this model to let go?

my contact 8223-4403

 

cheers and ride safe on a rainy day

[zaku_g]

Hi guys, anyone have a burly 10.5" rear shock for sales? New or used doesn't matter.

 

PM me @ 91873320 if available thanks!

 

Joseph

[greddyevo]

(SOLD)hi Guys, i've got sportster 48 2010 Forward control full set to let go. black. please offer. SMS at 82450343. thanks

Edited October 20, 2014 by greddyevo

[fazerocks]

Only mod is Pillion seat + Pegs + Back Rest.

New Battery + Avon Tyre

Selling as is.

 

Looking at 21K. Loan Available.PM me.

http://www.singaporebikes.com/used_bikes/30460/harley_davidson_xl883n_iron/

Edited November 5, 2014 by fazerocks

[HOLLA]

Hi am considering getting a used harley, may i know beside harley-davidson singapore, where can i view used harley in bike shop?