Honda NSR150SP Riders

[FireGunz]

Yup, I currently using "chiong" one for abt 5 years. One of the front socket has melted (NT sure if bulb can fit in now), so only use 1 side for the time being. Cost 45$ tat time. Of course orig one is better but def cost much much exp hor. But hw we knw if orig is really orig unless go boon Siew buy. Aftermarket ones r v similar to orig at norm wkshops.

Hmmmmm...... I see, Thank bro. For the info about what is the difference.

 

Bro, will the bike inspection can pass seem one of the front socket has melted?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[sporeknight]

Nwadys new bike lo beam 1 light, high beam 2 lights. So I think they don really care. I jus pass my inspectn on Oct.

[FireGunz]

Actually.........

 

Battery is to store charge. Magnet coil is to charge your battery. Rectifier is to control the voltage so your magnet coil don't overcharge your battery.

 

If you blip throttle, voltage goes up, means magnet coil is fine. Don't go up means magnet coil spoil.

 

If you blip throttle, and you voltage exceeds 15V, means rectifier spoil.

 

If rectifier and magnet coil both ok, but battery is below 11V consistently despite riding everyday, means battery spoil.

 

Hi Seniors, i had measures the volt at the battery.

 

1. Before started bike the battery volt is 12+ (below 13v).

 

2. After start the bike & blip throttle is 14+ (below 15v).

 

So the battery, rectifier & magnet coil are ok. Right?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[wait4me]

Yup, I currently using "chiong" one for abt 5 years. One of the front socket has melted (NT sure if bulb can fit in now), so only use 1 side for the time being. Cost 45$ tat time. Of course orig one is better but def cost much much exp hor. But hw we knw if orig is really orig unless go boon Siew buy. Aftermarket ones r v similar to orig at norm wkshops.

 

there is a stanley word at the headlight for original

 

chiong wants cant even last putting HID

[FireGunz]

there is a stanley word at the headlight for original

 

chiong wants cant even last putting HID

Ok. Noted. Bro.

 

Just wondering that the "Stanley" word printed (or sticker) at which part of the headlight that can be see?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[Heathx]

Ok. Noted. Bro.

 

Just wondering that the "Stanley" word printed (or sticker) at which part of the headlight that can be see?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

on the front itself. you cannot miss it one.

 

And your 'holy trinity' sounds correct. But continue to monitor the voltage of the batt over next few weeks, if the voltage keep dropping means batt issue.

[FireGunz]

on the front itself. you cannot miss it one.

 

And your 'holy trinity' sounds correct. But continue to monitor the voltage of the batt over next few weeks, if the voltage keep dropping means batt issue.

 

Hi bro, you mean continue to monitor the voltage of the battery at both part

1. "without start bike" battery itself &

2. "after start bike" with blip throttle.

So over the next week. Right? Or just monitor on part 1 only (without start bike)? also after measurements, what if the result still same like before the part 1 is 12+ (below 13v) follow by the part 2 is 14+ (below 15v)?

 

I also had try after started the bike but "without" blip throttle as the voltage is 14+ too. Also about the neutral light indicator (Before start bike) is bright too.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[Heathx]

Hi bro, you mean continue to monitor the voltage of the battery at both part

1. "without start bike" battery itself &

2. "after start bike" with blip throttle.

So over the next week. Right? Or just monitor on part 1 only (without start bike)? also after measurements, what if the result still same like before the part 1 is 12+ (below 13v) follow by the part 2 is 14+ (below 15v)?

 

I also had try after started the bike but "without" blip throttle as the voltage is 14+ too. Also about the neutral light indicator (Before start bike) is bright too.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

No, just your battery itself. It's easy if you have a voltmeter on your bike. I highly encourage you to get a voltmeter if you have not done so yet.

 

So let's say today you on your ignition, haven't start bike up yet, your voltage shows 12.0V. After 1 month of riding, if it shows 11.0V at ignition on, means your batt is not being charged. Then you do a check on each of the components. If your rectifier and magnet coil are working as intended, then it means that your battery is not able to hold charge.

 

It happened to me recently. I couldn't start up my bike after i sent my friend home, because temp was high and the fan was on, so it sucked voltage from an already low charge battery. But since i ride everyday, it shouldn't be the case. Went to diagnose, and found coil and rectifier both working. Turns out, the battery was 2yrs old and was time to replace it.

[FireGunz]

No, just your battery itself. It's easy if you have a voltmeter on your bike. I highly encourage you to get a voltmeter if you have not done so yet.

 

So let's say today you on your ignition, haven't start bike up yet, your voltage shows 12.0V. After 1 month of riding, if it shows 11.0V at ignition on, means your batt is not being charged. Then you do a check on each of the components. If your rectifier and magnet coil are working as intended, then it means that your battery is not able to hold charge.

 

It happened to me recently. I couldn't start up my bike after i sent my friend home, because temp was high and the fan was on, so it sucked voltage from an already low charge battery. But since i ride everyday, it shouldn't be the case. Went to diagnose, and found coil and rectifier both working. Turns out, the battery was 2yrs old and was time to replace it.

I see... Ok. Thanks.

 

Bro, where did you install the voltmeter at your SP it seem like no place to put it. Also are you install the voltmeter all by yourself or mechanic do it. What is the price of purchase item & installation? Possible to share your photos of the voltmeter where it installed as for the reference or guide usage.

 

The voltmeter mainly check / monitor on the battery voltage when you turn on the ignition or during the riding. Right?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Edited October 15, 2015 by FireGunz

[jbdoggy]

and the fan was on.

 

Oh! can install fan is it? Where did you get it?How much? I had always wanted a fan but looks like not enough space like that.

Or are you referring to your cbr??

 

 

Edit: Are there any foldable mirrors out there suitable for sp?

Edited October 15, 2015 by jbdoggy

[Heathx]

I see... Ok. Thanks.

 

Bro, where did you install the voltmeter at your SP it seem like no place to put it. Also are you install the voltmeter all by yourself or mechanic do it. What is the price of purchase item & installation? Possible to share your photos of the voltmeter where it installed as for the reference or guide usage.

 

The voltmeter mainly check / monitor on the battery voltage when you turn on the ignition or during the riding. Right?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

Yes, voltmeter to check on batt voltage. It's good to have cos u can notice whether got any possible electrical issues easily. On my SP, i placed it on my right air duct. There's this black plastic piece that goes all the way to the front of your bike and runs beside your speedo meter. Fairing and saitou is attached to it too.

 

The voltmeter i got is the koso slim voltmeter, i got my mech to install it for me cos i kiasi. Scared i anyhow then make things jialat. Hahaha... There's quite a few people selling in those facebook groups, and you can prolly find in carousell too. It's about $20-$30+. can't rem exact. Some sellers offer to do installation too.

 

 

Oh! can install fan is it? Where did you get it?How much? I had always wanted a fan but looks like not enough space like that.

Or are you referring to your cbr??

 

 

Edit: Are there any foldable mirrors out there suitable for sp?

 

Oh, the fan is for my CBR. SP don't really need fan at all, it's very easy to cool an SP, just move can already. SP stuck in jam 20mins then only overheat. Those inline 4 engines 5-10mins mampos already, got fan also still damn hot... Hahahaha... But if u want, i'm pretty sure can use those CPU fan, which is slim enough. Just need to mod on/off switch and find some way to place it securely.

[cnbn]

No power can be a lot of possibilities. To really tell you what is wrong not easy, unless you can tell us more about what you notice when you ride, the character of the bike.

 

Engine alone the health maybe not good. Parts worn out. Low compression = low power transmitted.

 

For 2-stroke bikes, common lack of power culprit is the exhaust pipe choked up.

 

Thanks bro Heathx for reply,

 

My sp unable to hit higher than 110kmph. How do i check if my sp has low compression? Thanks.

[Heathx]

My sp unable to hit higher than 110kmph. How do i check if my sp has low compression? Thanks.

 

Compression hard to check. For the experienced riders, they will tell you can hear difference one, and it's true. Engine with good compression, the sound will be more crisp. Compression no good, the sound like lao hong like that...

 

I highly suspect it may be your exhaust system choked up. Can go to your mech and do a check first. If really choked up, see if you can do a decarbon for your exhaust belly (the whole black part) and whether you need to replace your endcan (the silver cylinder near the end). Decarbon can be done in JB for cheap. Singapore also have, but more rare now cos some shops scared kena summon by NEA (decarbon is a very smokey process). Endcan about $80 from Everfit, FJT, Ever Success all those in Singapore.

 

The most effective way of decarbon is they cut open your exhaust belly and do it, but upon welding back, will create a mark that will make you fail inspection. Some mechs do a good job of filing the weld mark down and repainting the belly, so it looks as good as new. Other way is to go shop, loan their exhaust belly for inspection only.

 

If your exhaust is clear, and the problem persists, then only it's time to look at engine. Reason why see exhaust first is cos no matter how good condition your engine is, if exhaust not clear, also no power one. This is a common problem for 2-stroke bikes.

[sporeknight]

Compression hard to check. For the experienced riders, they will tell you can hear difference one, and it's true. Engine with good compression, the sound will be more crisp. Compression no good, the sound like lao hong like that...

 

I highly suspect it may be your exhaust system choked up. Can go to your mech and do a check first. If really choked up, see if you can do a decarbon for your exhaust belly (the whole black part) and whether you need to replace your endcan (the silver cylinder near the end). Decarbon can be done in JB for cheap. Singapore also have, but more rare now cos some shops scared kena summon by NEA (decarbon is a very smokey process). Endcan about $80 from Everfit, FJT, Ever Success all those in Singapore.

 

The most effective way of decarbon is they cut open your exhaust belly and do it, but upon welding back, will create a mark that will make you fail inspection. Some mechs do a good job of filing the weld mark down and repainting the belly, so it looks as good as new. Other way is to go shop, loan their exhaust belly for inspection only.

 

If your exhaust is clear, and the problem persists, then only it's time to look at engine. Reason why see exhaust first is cos no matter how good condition your engine is, if exhaust not clear, also no power one. This is a common problem for 2-stroke bikes.

So bro Heathx, is it really necessary to replace the end can? Hav seen mech remove it n go to the back of their wkshop dono wat they do. Susp they "wash" it. Hw n wat they do, I did nt c.

 

My SP from day 1 till nw did nt svc the power vlv, end can whatever. Speed also abt 110-120max. Rpm can't go beyond 6.5k.

[jbdoggy]

Oh, the fan is for my CBR. SP don't really need fan at all, it's very easy to cool an SP, just move can already. SP stuck in jam 20mins then only overheat. Those inline 4 engines 5-10mins mampos already, got fan also still damn hot... Hahahaha... But if u want, i'm pretty sure can use those CPU fan, which is slim enough. Just need to mod on/off switch and find some way to place it securely.

 

Thks bro. I think i jus leave it as it is. I also noticed engine cools down very quickly once off engine at night. From needle a bit more then 3/4 pt to cold in less then an hour! But as you say, once on the move temp also drops very quickly to abt 1/3rd point.

 

Now my turn to hv coolant tank completely dry! I wonder if all the tight u turns, tight loops, tight 8s & other slow speed stuff I was practicing in the open carpark had anything to do with it cos temp needle always 3/4 pt or a bit more. So the high heat caused it to evaporate since the tank cap so soft.

 

Another suspicion - when Ah Chong changed my coolant he used more then 1 litre of Ipone coolant. Charged me for 2 containers. But when I went to change my clutch in JB, all that coolant got drained out & was eventually replaced by only 1 litre of Yamalube coolant. Since radiator can take abt 1.1 litre, all the balance from the tank eventually go to the radiator.

 

Im very tempted to go & have Ah Chong put back the 1l+ of Ipone coolant again. Seems to keep the engine at a cooler temp when on the move. Needle at quarter point compared to 1/3rd pt with yamalube.

 

Endcan about $80 from Everfit, FJT, Ever Success all those in Singapore.

 

The most effective way of decarbon is they cut open your exhaust belly and do it, but upon welding back, will create a mark that will make you fail inspection. Some mechs do a good job of filing the weld mark down and repainting the belly, so it looks as good as new. Other way is to go shop, loan their exhaust belly for inspection only.

 

I thought for end can, you can jus replace the fibre inside?? Open up end can, remove the dirty fibre & replace with new one & then solder back the chrome part? Anyway to actually know for sure that its time to replace endcan?

 

Exhaust must cut open ah? Jialat leh like that. I thought they use a blow torch & heat up the whole unit until red hot & then after that use compressed air jet & blow out all the dried carbon??

[Heathx]

So bro Heathx, is it really necessary to replace the end can? Hav seen mech remove it n go to the back of their wkshop dono wat they do. Susp they "wash" it. Hw n wat they do, I did nt c.

 

My SP from day 1 till nw did nt svc the power vlv, end can whatever. Speed also abt 110-120max. Rpm can't go beyond 6.5k.

 

Not necessary to replace endcan. You can do a chemical wash and/or repack the fibre. But it's not that much cheaper, and it takes up much more time. So personally, i just got a new endcan instead, just take out old one, put in new one, 15mins settled. The old one, you can leave at mech to wash and refibre, then next time when your new one clogged up, just replace with the cleaned old one lor. Then clean the newer one. Hahaha...

 

If can, do some servicing. The rpm part is impt. Sometimes in bad situation, you need the sudden burst of power to get out of trouble. And SP power comes in only after 6.8k rpm, when the valve opens. If your valve and engine is healthy, speed comes naturally.

 

 

Decarbon got 2 methods. First is cut open and decarbon. This method is the 'correct' method, as it really make sure everything inside totally clean. Downside is, got a scar that will make you fail inspection unless your mech damn zai to hide the scar well.

 

The other method is don't cut at all, they take a blow torch and heat up the exhaust belly until it red hot, then use a hammer to whack, and compressed air to blow out the chunks of carbon simultaneously. This method, obviously not as clean, because sometimes the chunks too big and cannot blow out properly. You must understand that both ends of the exhaust are narrow, and acts as a funnel. But usually, it is good enough. It should be able to clear at least 80% of what's stuck inside.

Edited October 20, 2015 by Heathx

[soundwave]

Looking for NSR150SP in stock condition. Fairing and wheels have to be in original colour/condition, NOT resprayed. Pls PM if one is available.

[jbdoggy]

Not necessary to replace endcan. You can do a chemical wash and/or repack the fibre. But it's not that much cheaper, and it takes up much more time. So personally, i just got a new endcan instead, just take out old one, put in new one, 15mins settled. The old one, you can leave at mech to wash and refibre, then next time when your new one clogged up, just replace with the cleaned old one lor. Then clean the newer one. Hahaha...

 

If can, do some servicing. The rpm part is impt. Sometimes in bad situation, you need the sudden burst of power to get out of trouble. And SP power comes in only after 6.8k rpm, when the valve opens. If your valve and engine is healthy, speed comes naturally.

 

 

Decarbon got 2 methods. First is cut open and decarbon. This method is the 'correct' method, as it really make sure everything inside totally clean. Downside is, got a scar that will make you fail inspection unless your mech damn zai to hide the scar well.

 

The other method is don't cut at all, they take a blow torch and heat up the exhaust belly until it red hot, then use a hammer to whack, and compressed air to blow out the chunks of carbon simultaneously. This method, obviously not as clean, because sometimes the chunks too big and cannot blow out properly. You must understand that both ends of the exhaust are narrow, and acts as a funnel. But usually, it is good enough. It should be able to clear at least 80% of what's stuck inside.

 

Thanks very much bro heathx. learning so much from you.

[Simoncwtay]

Thanks very much bro heathx. learning so much from you.

 

Anybody want to upgrade to 250CC. Selling two stroke powerful bike. In Tip top condition. All parts are in original. Sms through 97489420 to view to believe

[spidey77]

Friend letting go kr monoshock,said cn be used on sp.Safe to use kr monoshock on Sp?I only know needs to be fitted upside down,anyth else need to take note?anyone tried and tested before?

[Heathx]

Hear before, never tried.

[spidey77]

Hear before, never tried.

 

What's the review or feedback?

[FireGunz]

If fuel cork is loose, need to remove the fuel tank. You will see like some metal tap thing protruding out from the tank. Use a spanner to tighten the nut. Sometimes, if you unscrew the tap, you will see the rust build up there also. The rust is from your fuel tank, then collect over there over time. Just use petrol to rinse away and put back.

 

Hi bro (Heathx), the nut to be tighten (Fuel tap) that you early mention where is that located at?

The "A" or "B" or other place?

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Edited October 28, 2015 by FireGunz

[FireGunz]

Hmmmmm....

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[superfruits]

hi guys i am very new to bikes. just got my SP 2 days ago (FS plate) and experiencing abit of problems. upon hitting 120kph, the bike seem to struggle to reach higher speeds. went to a shop in JB and the mechanic told me need to "top overhaul" or "wash the engine" i am not very sure what he means, but what i am sure of, is that the previous owner changed the block, gaskets, piston, rings, conrod, seals. and he just finished running in the engine. so what could be the problem?

 

fairings condition are quite bad scratches and cracks here and there and the fairings are not exactly of the same color/design, a slight dent on the fuel tank. any recommendations on where to get brand new coversets and tank? pls advice.

 

right side of the headlamp has melted, looking to get a new set of headlamps.

 

thank you guys