Honda NSR150SP Riders

[Heathx]

What's the review or feedback?

 

Tiagong KR monoshock better and cheaper than SP, but i never tried so don't quote me on that. Personally, i went for the $100+ combiz from LAB, after 2months, the shock broke. Then i reverted back to my stock shocks, which was a bit soft, but still good provided don't whack too hard at track.

 

Hi bro (Heathx), the nut to be tighten (Fuel tap) that you early mention where is that located at?

[ATTACH]329196[/ATTACH]

The "A" or "B" or other place?

 

In my case, i tightened the A part. Sorry for late reply, i was away in Hong Kong getting fat. lol.

 

hi guys i am very new to bikes. just got my SP 2 days ago (FS plate) and experiencing abit of problems. upon hitting 120kph, the bike seem to struggle to reach higher speeds. went to a shop in JB and the mechanic told me need to "top overhaul" or "wash the engine" i am not very sure what he means, but what i am sure of, is that the previous owner changed the block, gaskets, piston, rings, conrod, seals. and he just finished running in the engine. so what could be the problem?

 

fairings condition are quite bad scratches and cracks here and there and the fairings are not exactly of the same color/design, a slight dent on the fuel tank. any recommendations on where to get brand new coversets and tank? pls advice.

 

right side of the headlamp has melted, looking to get a new set of headlamps.

 

thank you guys

 

First question that comes to mind is, why you buy such a bad condition SP? >_

 

If the exterior so chui, what makes you think the owner will take care of the interior? Previous owner claimed changed everything, did he show you receipt? Did you open up the engine to see if all the parts were new?

 

Anyway, to address the issues you face.........

 

Struggle to go above 120kmph can have many reasons. First possibility is engine condition not good. Second possibility is your valve have issue (choked or not working properly). Third possibility is your exhaust system choked up. There are other possible causes also, but the three above are most common. If any shop or mechanic tell you must overhaul without opening up the engine to inspect the piston and block, don't bother with them. There's no way to judge that an engine need overhaul just by looking from exterior, unless it's already jammed.

 

All the parts you need for SP, you can get from Everfit, Ever Success, or FJT Parts. Just google them and you can find their location and contact already. These 3 are authorised dealers for Honda parts. All located at Rowell street area so if one shop no stock, the others are within walking distance. Fairing is a give and take, cos sometimes the holes they drilled not accurate one, so the fitting a bit off. But shouldn't be too big of an issue.

[superfruits]

First question that comes to mind is, why you buy such a bad condition SP? >_

 

If the exterior so chui, what makes you think the owner will take care of the interior? Previous owner claimed changed everything, did he show you receipt? Did you open up the engine to see if all the parts were new?

 

Anyway, to address the issues you face.........

 

Struggle to go above 120kmph can have many reasons. First possibility is engine condition not good. Second possibility is your valve have issue (choked or not working properly). Third possibility is your exhaust system choked up. There are other possible causes also, but the three above are most common. If any shop or mechanic tell you must overhaul without opening up the engine to inspect the piston and block, don't bother with them. There's no way to judge that an engine need overhaul just by looking from exterior, unless it's already jammed.

 

All the parts you need for SP, you can get from Everfit, Ever Success, or FJT Parts. Just google them and you can find their location and contact already. These 3 are authorised dealers for Honda parts. All located at Rowell street area so if one shop no stock, the others are within walking distance. Fairing is a give and take, cos sometimes the holes they drilled not accurate one, so the fitting a bit off. But shouldn't be too big of an issue.

 

 

He had receipts of the overhaul, the bike sounds good and proper. It's just that the outer appearance isn't very good but I can change that myself, most importantly, it must be able to run. It has no problem with moving off, just have problem with hitting higher speeds. Thanks for your reply bro, it was helpful

 

 

 

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[Heathx]

He had receipts of the overhaul, the bike sounds good and proper. It's just that the outer appearance isn't very good but I can change that myself, most importantly, it must be able to run. It has no problem with moving off, just have problem with hitting higher speeds. Thanks for your reply bro, it was helpful

 

Glad that my advice was helpful to you! If that's the case, then perhaps you'll want to skip to check valve or exhaust first. If exhaust is choked, you will need to decarbon it, and either change or wash your endcan. You can scroll to the previous few posts where we discussed this. My endcan was choked up badly once. My rpm couldn't go past 6.5k, and my speed was limited at 100kmph at most. Just the endcan choked alone can cause NSR150SP to become C70...

 

Just another thing. The fairings and tank total can cost up to $500ish, so be prepared to face that kind of price. I had to buy a whole set before after a highside at pasir gudang. Fuel tank no stock, so i got them to knock the dent out, then putty the exterior to make it smooth. Bikes that have survived crashes, don't expect alignment and fitting of fairings to be flawless, sometimes you may have to drill a hole or 2 to fit the fairing comfortably. If you forcefully fit the fairing according to its initially drilled holes, it may cause the fairing to crack prematurely due to increased stress.

[wait4me]

wa get bike not long go high speed. jin fierce

[Heathx]

wa get bike not long go high speed. jin fierce

 

Some live by this rule.

 

[superfruits]

Glad that my advice was helpful to you! If that's the case, then perhaps you'll want to skip to check valve or exhaust first. If exhaust is choked, you will need to decarbon it, and either change or wash your endcan. You can scroll to the previous few posts where we discussed this. My endcan was choked up badly once. My rpm couldn't go past 6.5k, and my speed was limited at 100kmph at most. Just the endcan choked alone can cause NSR150SP to become C70...

 

Just another thing. The fairings and tank total can cost up to $500ish, so be prepared to face that kind of price. I had to buy a whole set before after a highside at pasir gudang. Fuel tank no stock, so i got them to knock the dent out, then putty the exterior to make it smooth. Bikes that have survived crashes, don't expect alignment and fitting of fairings to be flawless, sometimes you may have to drill a hole or 2 to fit the fairing comfortably. If you forcefully fit the fairing according to its initially drilled holes, it may cause the fairing to crack prematurely due to increased stress.

 

 

Do you know the price of decarbonising the pipe? How much would it cost to knock out the dent in the fuel tank and the putty thingy?

From my house to my work place, the roads are practically empty and big 3 lanes and the corners are wide, very little traffic lights that are green most of the time, able to corner the turns at around 100-120kph. Very smooth to ride!

 

 

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[FireGunz]

In my case, i tightened the A part. Sorry for late reply, i was away in Hong Kong getting fat. lol.

 

Welcome back home, Bro.

Thank for the pointing out where to tighten the nut for the fuel tap when it loosen.

 

But I'm just wondering about that "Nut" (Part "A"). Base on the vision when turn the fuel value "On/Off" it seem like indirectly (Part "A" nut) for controlling the Fuel flow. To me, it more slightly look like just to secure the fuel tap only.

 

Hmmm... how should I put it.

 

Sorry bro (please don't get offended), that is base on Practical (did hand on before) or Theory (just knowledge only without hand on)

 

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Edited November 3, 2015 by FireGunz

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, does any of you sent the bike for "Top Servicing" or Polish piston / block / cylinder head so on... just wonder that does the mechanic take out all this item from engine single by single for polish (mean like able see the item itself during the cleaning) or just pour the chemical stuff (something like) into the engine to do a clean?

 

My point is during the "Top Servicing" or Polishing the item (take out the part) which able to see to whether the item is damage or not & knowing how bad the condition it.

 

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[Heathx]

Do you know the price of decarbonising the pipe? How much would it cost to knock out the dent in the fuel tank and the putty thingy?

From my house to my work place, the roads are practically empty and big 3 lanes and the corners are wide, very little traffic lights that are green most of the time, able to corner the turns at around 100-120kph. Very smooth to ride!

 

 

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I can't remember how much it costs to decarbonise pipe, but it's easier to do that in JB, cheaper and they don't have strict regulations on environment thingy. The knocking and putty i'm not sure also, cos i did a paintjob with the shop and they included the cost in the total.

 

We all like to ride fast, that's why we bought sports bike in the first place. But safety first. Want to go fast, go to track instead, where there are larger run-off areas and less obstacles or vehicles in the way. The danger on the roads is real. All it takes is one mistake, fall and hit against divider or curb at high speed, then GG liao. I lost a friend because he was making a right turn at 70kmph, lost control, hit divider and one young life snuffed out just like that. It's easy to go fast, but can you stop whenever you want, or need to?

 

https://youtu.be/BuKUbnDZy3Y

 

Impact at 19 seconds. And that guy was wearing armored jacket and proper protection gears too...

 

Welcome back home, Bro.

Thank for the pointing out where to tighten the nut for the fuel tap when it loosen.

 

But I'm just wondering about that "Nut" (Part "A"). Base on the vision when turn the fuel value "On/Off" it seem like indirectly (Part "A" nut) for controlling the Fuel flow. To me, it more slightly look like just to secure the fuel tap only.

 

Hmmm... how should I put it.

 

Sorry bro (please don't get offended), that is base on Practical (did hand on before) or Theory (just knowledge only without hand on)

 

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No offence taken. My case was fuel tap was loose, so i just tightened the A part then ok liao. But the fuel tap on/off thing has nothing to do with A part, unless your A is loose and whether on or off, still leaking petrol, which was what happened in my case. hahaha...

[Heathx]

Hi Seniors, does any of you sent the bike for "Top Servicing" or Polish piston / block / cylinder head so on... just wonder that does the mechanic take out all this item from engine single by single for polish (mean like able see the item itself during the cleaning) or just pour the chemical stuff (something like) into the engine to do a clean?

 

My point is during the "Top Servicing" or Polishing the item (take out the part) which able to see to whether the item is damage or not & knowing how bad the condition it.

 

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Mech will take out the parts one by one to clean, then assemble back again. Usually they will rinse with petrol and use a brush to clean the carbon off the parts. It is during then that they can also see if any parts worn out or any problem like scratches on piston or block.

[FireGunz]

No offence taken. My case was fuel tap was loose, so i just tightened the A part then ok liao. But the fuel tap on/off thing has nothing to do with A part, unless your A is loose and whether on or off, still leaking petrol, which was what happened in my case. hahaha...

 

Ok, Noted.

Thank bro for sharing info & the experience too.

 

Mech will take out the parts one by one to clean, then assemble back again. Usually they will rinse with petrol and use a brush to clean the carbon off the parts. It is during then that they can also see if any parts worn out or any problem like scratches on piston or block.

 

Hmmm... I see, so if possible alway go for "top servicing" 1st (to see the item) then not just hearing the engine sound to say got whatever piston or block got crack.

 

After seeing if there really got any crack so on which show by the mechanic then go for overhual (replace the crack item) Right?

 

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Edited November 4, 2015 by FireGunz

[sporeknight]

Some live by this rule.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]329421[/ATTACH]

 

I totally agree. If NT u will feel tat u can't control it mentally. Meaning u r the master, yr ride is jus tamed horse.

[Heathx]

Hmmm... I see, so if possible alway go for "top servicing" 1st (to see the item) then not just hearing the engine sound to say got whatever piston or block got crack.

 

After seeing if there really got any crack so on which show by the mechanic then go for overhual (replace the crack item) Right?

 

For me, i would say once you get your bike, should go to your trusted mech and get him strip the engine to take a look. Block, piston is only the top, there's still conrod, engine bearings, crankshaft, gearbox all those. Even if your 'top' is in pristine condition, your 'bottom' no good, sooner or later will have problems also. And yes, during servicing, if any part found to be scratched or compromised, mech will suggest to replace unless it's extremely minor and can still be used.

 

 

 

Recently i went msia. Thought highway at midnight nobody, can whack. Hit 240+, damn shiok. Then suddenly saw a pile of something on the road. Too fast, not in time to swerve, so just kept bike straight and whacked through it, praying. It was sand, and my bike swayed and buckled. I kena vicious tankslap. Luckily, i was prepared for it and kiapped my fuel tank tight with my thighs. Kept the throttle open and rode out the tankslap. After that, stopped by the side and calmed down before riding off again. Road condition can change suddenly. I can't tell anyone not to speed, cos that would be hypocritical. But be careful when you do, and also think twice before doing so.

[FireGunz]

For me, i would say once you get your bike, should go to your trusted mech and get him strip the engine to take a look. Block, piston is only the top, there's still conrod, engine bearings, crankshaft, gearbox all those. Even if your 'top' is in pristine condition, your 'bottom' no good, sooner or later will have problems also. And yes, during servicing, if any part found to be scratched or compromised, mech will suggest to replace unless it's extremely minor and can still be used..

 

Hmmm... you got the point.

 

Recently i went msia. Thought highway at midnight nobody, can whack. Hit 240+, damn shiok. Then suddenly saw a pile of something on the road. Too fast, not in time to swerve, so just kept bike straight and whacked through it, praying. It was sand, and my bike swayed and buckled. I kena vicious tankslap. Luckily, i was prepared for it and kiapped my fuel tank tight with my thighs. Kept the throttle open and rode out the tankslap. After that, stopped by the side and calmed down before riding off again. Road condition can change suddenly. I can't tell anyone not to speed, cos that would be hypocritical. But be careful when you do, and also think twice before doing so.

 

:eek: 240+ :eek: that fast!!!

 

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[Heathx]

 

 

 

:eek: 240+ :eek: that fast!!!

 

 

Wanted to clear carbon, so went fast. But mine only 600cc... Friends riding 1000cc all out of sight liao... But really must be careful when speeding... all it takes is one mistake... Could have ended very badly for me, but luckily i'm still here...

[FireGunz]

Wanted to clear carbon, so went fast. But mine only 600cc... Friends riding 1000cc all out of sight liao... But really must be careful when speeding... all it takes is one mistake... Could have ended very badly for me, but luckily i'm still here...

Wa... which model of the bike "600cc" can recommend...

 

Start Aiming... the 2A next year.

 

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[yoyo_99]

Sorry guys, need to put my bike sales here. I couldn't post in garage sale, may b i'm newbies here.

 

Model : Honda NSR150SP

Engine Capacity: 149

Classification: Class 2B

Registration Date: 16 Jul 2001

COE Expiry Date: 30 Jun 2021

 

Selling Price: $4,200

 

Well maintained bike, only ride during weekend. Sell due to upgrading to 2A bike. Only sincere buyer to be entertained. Viewing at Clementi HDB parking block. Please contact me @ 90695356. Thanks

[jbdoggy]

Wa... which model of the bike "600cc" can recommend...

 

Start Aiming... the 2A next year.

 

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Hey bro Firegunz! I dunno abt you, but im quite torn between a 600rr & a daytona 675 for a dream bike! Honda fanboy in me says 600rr but the 675 is really really swee & power!

 

But 2a is 1st. Enrolling next april.

[FireGunz]

Hey bro Firegunz! I dunno abt you, but im quite torn between a 600rr & a daytona 675 for a dream bike! Honda fanboy in me says 600rr but the 675 is really really swee & power!

 

But 2a is 1st. Enrolling next april.

Wa... power man...

 

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[wait4me]

dun waste time for 600cc . go traight for 1000cc .

and if u feel u can tamed a beast , go for the kawazaki zx12

[Heathx]

I think if from SP jump class 2, best to start with 600cc. The power and weight difference is quite a lot. I dropped my bike doing a tight u-turn, while going upslope at the power station at the top of 99-bend on my 2nd day. SP no problem, but 600cc much heavier and i wasn't prepared to fail. Broke brake lever and rear signal light. Lucky got sliders and i dropped it slowly enough, so fairing no damage at all. If 1000cc, i think habis... Cos i sure cannot tong the extra weight and size of the bike.

 

If from 2A jump progress to class 2, then by all means go for a 1000cc.

 

For Singapore, frankly, 300-400cc is most practical, and enough. But heart itchy, sure will get big bike one. Hehehe...

 

End of the day, don't let your bike control you, you must control your bike. So you need to know where you stand. improve your skills before you make that leap.

 

For me, budget was a concern, so i skipped 2A, and got a CBR600RR straight after my SP. Was considering the new R1, but out of my budget and luckily i didn't take yet, cos the tech leap is very great, a lot of things to learn, electronics and stuff.

 

 

 

All in all, you have to decide for yourself if you dare, and want to take on a 1000cc after your SP or not. It can be done, but you have to really tickle the throttle the first few days to get used to it, and for safety sake. Personally for me, i'm happy with a 600cc, cos even if i track, i only go Pasir Gudang. And 600cc is also good for Sepang. But really, i use it more for everyday ride. Ownself like can liao. If you really really want 1000cc, go for it, if not if you make do make do, then you will always yearn for 1000cc, won't be happy with 600cc one. Right now, i'm at a very comfortable stage with the 600cc, not really yearning for 1000cc. Doubt i will yearn for 1000cc for quite a while also, cos 600cc really nice to play. And well, we don't really go 299kmph to warrant a 1000cc also.

 

 

 

As for which supersport bike to get, it really depends on how much cash you have, how marquee a brand you want, aftersales servicing, parts availability etc.

 

Daytona 675 i heard is a very nice bike to ride. I tested it once, weight doesn't feel much different from the CBR600RR. But the bike is slimmer due to its more compact triple cylinder config, and comes with a lot of goodies. If you get a 675, basically there is not much need to get aftermarket parts anymore. But in Singapore, your parts availability will be a lot more challenging. I have heard of 675s waiting 2months for a single engine part. Is also considerably more expensive.

 

CBR600RR is a very comfortable bike to ride. It handles well, and its powerband is more gradual than the R6, making it more practical for street riding than the R6. It holds itself well in the high rpm ranges also, and the engine unit is reliable. But the bike on a whole is a basic package. No fancy things like slipper clutch, traction control, ohlin shocks and forks etc that you may find on a 675. Even the R6 comes with a slipper clutch. I chose this because it's cheap, it's easier to ride on a daily basis on the streets, and parts availability is plentiful. It's also voted best supersport bike on multiple occasions.

 

R6... boy, where do i even begin? Best supersport bike for track imo. The powerband is in the highs, above 8k. Can just orgas when you hear it scream when it pass by you along the home straight in Pasir Gudang at 240+kmph. Definitely buy this if you're a trackie, going at least once or twice a month. But it's a nightmare to ride on the streets. Because the powerband is so high, you have to keep it at 8k at least to feel some semblance of power. And at that rpm, your bike is very noisy. Secondly, the torque of this beast is fierce. I rode it a couple of times, and i was a pillion on multiple counts, very uncomfortable bike to ride in traffic in my opinion, torturous for pillion.

 

899 Panigale, heard many many good reviews, saying that its damn comfortable to ride and comes with goodies too. I've never gotten a chance to ride it, so i won't know. But there was a rave about it when it first came out. I would think it's easier to service a Ducati in SG than a Triumph.

 

MV Agusta F3 styling also jin chio, but i won't know about how it rides. My friend who rides a F800 dragster brutale says MV clutch is smooth as butter though. But engine very rough. Maybe he not used to it yet.

 

Not a Kawa or Suzuki fan, so i can't say anything about Kawasakis or Suzukis, since i already eliminated them from my choices. Hahaha... Personal preference lah.

Edited November 9, 2015 by Heathx

[FireGunz]

I think if from SP jump class 2, best to start with 600cc. The power and weight difference is quite a lot. I dropped my bike doing a tight u-turn, while going upslope at the power station at the top of 99-bend on my 2nd day. SP no problem, but 600cc much heavier and i wasn't prepared to fail. Broke brake lever and rear signal light. Lucky got sliders and i dropped it slowly enough, so fairing no damage at all. If 1000cc, i think habis... Cos i sure cannot tong the extra weight and size of the bike.

 

If from 2A jump progress to class 2, then by all means go for a 1000cc.

 

For Singapore, frankly, 300-400cc is most practical, and enough. But heart itchy, sure will get big bike one. Hehehe...

 

End of the day, don't let your bike control you, you must control your bike. So you need to know where you stand. improve your skills before you make that leap.

 

For me, budget was a concern, so i skipped 2A, and got a CBR600RR straight after my SP. Was considering the new R1, but out of my budget and luckily i didn't take yet, cos the tech leap is very great, a lot of things to learn, electronics and stuff.

 

 

 

All in all, you have to decide for yourself if you dare, and want to take on a 1000cc after your SP or not. It can be done, but you have to really tickle the throttle the first few days to get used to it, and for safety sake. Personally for me, i'm happy with a 600cc, cos even if i track, i only go Pasir Gudang. And 600cc is also good for Sepang. But really, i use it more for everyday ride. Ownself like can liao. If you really really want 1000cc, go for it, if not if you make do make do, then you will always yearn for 1000cc, won't be happy with 600cc one. Right now, i'm at a very comfortable stage with the 600cc, not really yearning for 1000cc. Doubt i will yearn for 1000cc for quite a while also, cos 600cc really nice to play. And well, we don't really go 299kmph to warrant a 1000cc also.

 

 

 

As for which supersport bike to get, it really depends on how much cash you have, how marquee a brand you want, aftersales servicing, parts availability etc.

 

Daytona 675 i heard is a very nice bike to ride. I tested it once, weight doesn't feel much different from the CBR600RR. But the bike is slimmer due to its more compact triple cylinder config, and comes with a lot of goodies. If you get a 675, basically there is not much need to get aftermarket parts anymore. But in Singapore, your parts availability will be a lot more challenging. I have heard of 675s waiting 2months for a single engine part. Is also considerably more expensive.

 

CBR600RR is a very comfortable bike to ride. It handles well, and its powerband is more gradual than the R6, making it more practical for street riding than the R6. It holds itself well in the high rpm ranges also, and the engine unit is reliable. But the bike on a whole is a basic package. No fancy things like slipper clutch, traction control, ohlin shocks and forks etc that you may find on a 675. Even the R6 comes with a slipper clutch. I chose this because it's cheap, it's easier to ride on a daily basis on the streets, and parts availability is plentiful. It's also voted best supersport bike on multiple occasions.

 

R6... boy, where do i even begin? Best supersport bike for track imo. The powerband is in the highs, above 8k. Can just orgas when you hear it scream when it pass by you along the home straight in Pasir Gudang at 240+kmph. Definitely buy this if you're a trackie, going at least once or twice a month. But it's a nightmare to ride on the streets. Because the powerband is so high, you have to keep it at 8k at least to feel some semblance of power. And at that rpm, your bike is very noisy. Secondly, the torque of this beast is fierce. I rode it a couple of times, and i was a pillion on multiple counts, very uncomfortable bike to ride in traffic in my opinion, torturous for pillion.

 

899 Panigale, heard many many good reviews, saying that its damn comfortable to ride and comes with goodies too. I've never gotten a chance to ride it, so i won't know. But there was a rave about it when it first came out. I would think it's easier to service a Ducati in SG than a Triumph.

 

MV Agusta F3 styling also jin chio, but i won't know about how it rides. My friend who rides a F800 dragster brutale says MV clutch is smooth as butter though. But engine very rough. Maybe he not used to it yet.

 

Not a Kawa or Suzuki fan, so i can't say anything about Kawasakis or Suzukis, since i already eliminated them from my choices. Hahaha... Personal preference lah.

 

Wa.... see your review of this few bike. Will wait until to class 2 also will take you advise too...

 

Thank for sharing info. 😃

 

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[wait4me]

i only can say lifestyle and hobbies with change as one grow older.

 

in the end i settle for comfort and space, and choose a bike for scenary then speed.

 

hit 299 on a 1000cc is nothing , is maintaining that for a few minutes then is something.

[Heathx]

i only can say lifestyle and hobbies with change as one grow older.

 

in the end i settle for comfort and space, and choose a bike for scenary then speed.

 

hit 299 on a 1000cc is nothing , is maintaining that for a few minutes then is something.

 

Definitely agree on this entire post.

 

Old liao want get married start family, have kids all these, will realise appetite for risk become lesser, and just want to relax a bit more instead.

 

It's easy to go fast on a straight road. That's why they always say straight road is for fast bikes, track is for fast rider. My bike not 299 fast for straight road, and i not fast rider for track, but can play corner at my own time happy liao. =P

 

Maybe when i reach 40+, i'll go for touring bike. Lol...

[DaBonz]

 

Help to look out for this Honda NSR150SP plate FS5608T. Stolen from Simei area on 27/28 Oct. Please contact 9639 9977 if you have any info. Thanks.