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Which type of s4 has the best fuel consumption?  

569 members have voted

  1. 1. Which type of s4 has the best fuel consumption?



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Posted

After 200km of 3k to 4k rpm gear changes i gave up trying to force myself to gear change at these rpms liao. Simply cannot take it. So switch back to my normal riding. After some 330+km i went to top up 14.2litres petrol. Agar agar is about 24km/l. If i had stuck to 3k-4k rpm change throughout, its definitely 25 or even 26km/h.

 

However, to do 25 or 26km/h will require cruising at about 70 or 80 on expressways on the left lane, some free wheeling towards traffic lights and when downslope, accelerations from traffic lights like a car etc. Riding frugally means that you give up some of the benefits of good riding, and that includes proper use of the throttle to accelerate to free spaces and engine brakes to slow down.

 

The S4 offers good engine braking at 4-7k rpm for street riding, drastically reducing the need for the brakes, taking away one the biggest causes of motorcycle accidents. Setting entry speeds into corners early and being in the right gear before leaning in means that the bike is more stable as you're banked over, allowing you to power out early towards the next corner without having to twist the throttle wide open, again taking away another factor to motorcycle crashes. If you choose to lane split, and I believe many of us do, dropping a gear or two also keeps the power handy, in case you need to get out of trouble or e-brake when that taxi cuts into your path. Riding frugally simply means riding less safely. I urge those who are considering to change their riding habits due to current all time high petrol prices to reconsider whether their safety is worth the risks of that few dollars every few days. Surely, a lifestyle change like reducing one or 2 sticks of cigarette a day or cutting down on booze will go a long way towards saving money and your health.

 

Those few days of riding with the best consumption I ever had was also one the darkest days ever, when i did not look forward to my next ride, knowing that I'm missing out on a lot of good riding. Perhaps I will put this info to good use if i ever lose my way too far north and run low on petrol... :)

 

Summary for Vtech 1 to share. (Consumptions on the same bike)

 

3k-4krpm gear change---25km/l

Normal riding- 20km/l

NSH riding 140-190km/h --- 16-17km/l

 

Cheers to good riding :)

P-plate should be an attitude to safety and riding. There's always more to learn.

 

10417710_10152885054228332_2597706433133321618_n.jpg?oh=a3e4c65165b15e5d659161c304211563&oe=54FB0965

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Posted

my consumption from KL trip. 18km/l at 160-190km/h. 21-23km/l at 120-140km/h. vtec saves petrol for me. my settings run best at 7.5-8k rpm. its a vtec 2 btw.

http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/ghost_04_/SIN%202009/4748b439-d86b-4bf3-a212-e1be01c6664c.jpg

stay calm and carry on...

Posted

fc should depends on the wear and tear of the engine...anyone strongly disagreed to it?>>

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/operationfd/torture.jpg

 

1 2 3 4 5 TESTING TESTING .......HELP STOP ANIMAL TESTING..1 2 3 4 5....TESTING TESTING.. ONE LIFE GONE

Posted
I think the switch Jfor_Jimmy1986 mention is a switch to on/off Vtec during vtec kick in. Am i right? Heard someone in this forum from Japan got this device.. :cheeky:

 

yeaa Crazy you're right... constant opening of Vtec is unneccessary when cruising on NSHW.. except for overtaking of long chain of vehiclels, on-ing and off-ing can save on the fuel consumption..

 

e.g full tank of s4, 350km (w Vtec) - from JB reach KL

full tank of s4, xxx KM (w/o Vtec) - furthur than KL ...

~ The Most Dangerous Practice - Tailgating. Accidents can be avoided if drivers Know how to Tailgate ~

:thumb:

Posted
Thanks mate. I'll bear this in mind if i miss my petrol stops or screw up on planning.

 

haa.. if u miss ur petrol stops in msia, u can ride back , in sg - stop and push back.. =x

~ The Most Dangerous Practice - Tailgating. Accidents can be avoided if drivers Know how to Tailgate ~

:thumb:

Posted

SO OVERALL which S4 is the most PETROL SAVE! :D

passed class 2B 31-08-06 (ex phantom TA200)

passed class 2A 06-11-07 (riding cb400 S1)

passes class 3 17-04-07 (some times)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v431/ahboy_ahboy/image004.gif

Posted

A friend emailed me this.

Dont know how true it is but I thought

can share with you guys especially the big bikers.

 

Subject: Tips for Filling Up Gasoline

 

*How not to lose money at the petrol stations especially when petrol

prices are sky rocketing!*

 

I've been in the petroleum pipeline business for about 31 years,

currently working for the Kinder-Morgan Pipeline here in San Jose, CA.

We deliver about 4 million gallons in a 24-hour period from the pipe line; one day

it's diesel, the next day it's jet fuel and gasoline. We have 34 storage

tanks here with a total capacity of 16,800,000 gallons. Here are some

tricks to help you get your money's worth.

 

1. Fill up your car or truck in the morning when the temperature is

still cool. Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks

buried below ground; and the colder the ground, the denser the gasoline.

When it gets warmer gasoline expands, so if you're filling up in the afternoon

or in the evening, what should be a gallon is not exactly a gallon.

In the petroleum business, the specific gravity and temperature of the fuel

(gasoline, diesel, jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products) are

significant. Every truckload that we load is temperature-compensated so

that the indicated gallonage is actually the amount pumped. A

one-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for businesses, but service stations

don't have temperature compensation at their pumps.

 

2. If a tanker truck is filling the station's tank at the time you want

to buy gas, do not fill up; most likely dirt and sludge in the tank is

being stirred up when gas is being delivered, and you might be transferring

that dirt from the bottom of their tank into your car's tank.

 

3. Fill up when your gas tank is half-full (or half-empty), because the

more gas you have in your tank the less air there is and gasoline

evaporates rapidly, especially when it's warm.

(Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating 'roof' membrane to

act as a barrier between the gas and the atmosphere, thereby minimizing

evaporation.)

 

4. If you look at the trigger you'll see that it has three delivery

settings: slow, medium and high. When you're filling up do not squeeze

the trigger of the nozzle to the high setting. You should be pumping at the

slow setting, thereby minimizing vapors created while you are pumping.

Hoses at the pump are corrugated; the corrugations act as a return path

for vapor recovery from gas that already has been metered. If you are

pumping at the high setting, the agitated gasoline contains more vapor, which

is being sucked back into the underground tank so you're getting less gas

for your money.

 

Hope this will help ease your 'pain at the pump'.

Posted

thumbs up to you.... great advise for malaysia petrol pumper

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i261/operationfd/torture.jpg

 

1 2 3 4 5 TESTING TESTING .......HELP STOP ANIMAL TESTING..1 2 3 4 5....TESTING TESTING.. ONE LIFE GONE

Posted

swee.. nice and useful info... btw im doing that all the time without knowing y i do that... hahaha... i use to pump super slow for no reason...

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1150/1426483839_2b47be539c_o.jpg

 

oct05 - oct06 runner 200

oct06 - july07 vtec1

july07 - ?? runner200

may09 - ?? vtec2

Posted
swee.. nice and useful info... btw im doing that all the time without knowing y i do that... hahaha... i use to pump super slow for no reason...

 

I think by pumping too slow can be a disadvantage because you will loose more petrol through evaporation since it is a very volatile liquid.

Posted
I think by pumping too slow can be a disadvantage because you will loose more petrol through evaporation since it is a very volatile liquid.

 

its just striking a balance between too fast and too slow

imo, i'll just go at the speed im comfortable with, and stick to my late night JB runs.

 

frankly, we lose significantly less vapor if we pump when the engine is cold.

but then, malaysia petrol so cheap, waste a bit never mind one lah haha :lol:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v56/flykite/futurerp.jpg
Posted
I think by pumping too slow can be a disadvantage because you will loose more petrol through evaporation since it is a very volatile liquid.

 

also true... but now im not running s4 le, my petrol tank opening is jus nice, slightly bigger a bit than the nozzle . so should b ok ba..:cheeky:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1150/1426483839_2b47be539c_o.jpg

 

oct05 - oct06 runner 200

oct06 - july07 vtec1

july07 - ?? runner200

may09 - ?? vtec2

Posted

good detail...thumb for u

bike history

1987 - 1988 - Baby steps

1989 - 2005 - Bus,Mrt,Taxi

Nov05 - Jan07 -YBR125

Jan07 - Feb11- CB400 Spec 1

Mar11 - ??? Fazer 1000

Nov05 - Got Got Class 2B

Dec 06 - Got Class 2A

Nov07 - Got Class 3

Mar08 - Got Class 2

Posted

useful info...can try out and maybe those who did so, can post here to see if there is any effects..

 

cheers!

2005-2006 : Yamaha RXZ 135

2006-2010 : Honda Super 4 Spec I

2010-2012 : Honda VFR 800 5th Gen

2012-current : SYM MaxSym 400i

Posted

good tip! esp the one where you should not pump when the tanker is in the station! hahah! i tot when i see the tanker i should pump cos the petrol maybe fresher! LOL

 

:faint:

Posted
it really have to depends on the rider's riding habit

 

yess.. agree ...~ must have riding discipline.... =D

~ The Most Dangerous Practice - Tailgating. Accidents can be avoided if drivers Know how to Tailgate ~

:thumb:

Posted

Dear fellow s4 riders,

 

Recently my PB1 has seen a dramatic drop in FC. Also sometimes when i throttle i can feel that the power delivered is very jerky. like got something stuck somewhere blocking it. So far i've changed EO, Oil filter, air filter, spark plug, service and tune carbs, service radiator and changed my starter motor. All done within last 2 weeks. My mech still can't find the problem.

 

Please help if you've encountered the same problem before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Cheers :thumb:

Posted

Air filter.....But are you sure he really change it??

Bikes Owned: LC125 RXZ135 GSXR400RP CB400VS CB400Spec2 SV650 02CBRF4i FZ1000 CBR929 05YZF-R6 CBR150 HondaSonic125 Yamaha_CygnusX125 KymcoGrandink_250 Hornet_250 04_Yamaha_Tmax Silverwing 400 FZ6_S2 GSXR600K7

 

Current bikes: NIL

Gear 4th

http://45.media.tumblr.com/f183dbd75b05df79cf6f77dba98d7339/tumblr_o1sqbk4h8Z1s5rcozo1_400.gif

Posted
Dear fellow s4 riders,

 

Recently my PB1 has seen a dramatic drop in FC. Also sometimes when i throttle i can feel that the power delivered is very jerky. like got something stuck somewhere blocking it. So far i've changed EO, Oil filter, air filter, spark plug, service and tune carbs, service radiator and changed my starter motor. All done within last 2 weeks. My mech still can't find the problem.

 

Please help if you've encountered the same problem before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Cheers :thumb:

 

 

I riding PB1, i dont have this problem.

3 Arai Helmet Meets Up :angel:

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