Hi new here, but already have a question haha!

[yoshino305]

Okay was thinking, should i get a 2nd hand honda sp/ kawa 150krr after getting my 2B license

and change at 2A then 2.

 

or

Get a Aprillia rs4 125 and ride it until class 2?

Guys , which one is cheaper and good?Your opinions are really appreciated !

Anyway nice to meet all of you!

[ki113r]

SP also can ride till class 2 ma, but I suggest FZ16 if you talk about RS4 125

[yoshino305]

FZ16 look too small for me , my height and weight is 176cm / 76kg haha.

I wondering if SP kana abused too much anot scared alot of problems in just 1-2years .

[captain_des]

Sp would be your best bet since you'll be upgrading your license after a year.

 

Less loss on paper with sp (Honda) with pro arm branding plays a very

big part in the second hand market.

 

Do your homework on the going prices before committing

 

IMO Kawa more likely to get pulled over.

 

Also check if both the bikes you mention is on 2t pump or premix.

Sh*t happens at the most unlikely timings

 

Remember, frequent upgrading means more loss on paper unless

You'll ride sp all the way till cl2 which is very doubtful

[yoshino305]

Thanks capt. des for your reply, But i don't really understand "pro arm branding, kawa being pulled over , 2t pump and premix ".

Mind explaining cause i don't really know what it all means:/

[Hydher]

are you working or studying?

done with ns?

 

it is possible not to lose a cent on machine price if you are patient for good deals.

 

The aprilla is a nice ride with good brakes but can be hell to your wallet.

A broken mirror can set you back for hundreds. I would reccomend someone who is financially good to get this. The 4 strokes r125 or r15 is v good too.

 

on the upgrading or till class 2, i believe if its something only you know the answer 2.

S4 and 400cc sportsbikes are a tempt.

I went all out to get a gsxr 1000 only to realise its not something too feasible here.

[yoshino305]

Hmm, i am in NS and also studying no extra income.

I love how aprillia looks , SP and KRR too but aprillia for one thing is expensive,

SP and KRR most likely got alot of problems and i don't know how to examine if the bike has any problems..

Willing to learn, but don't know where to start.

hydher mind giving me advice on this ? :/

thanks!

[foxin]

I guess given your situation (assuming you have no support at all)..

Your "no extra income" means there are alot of things you cannot do eh...

 

Aprillia is new; comes with a hefty price tag but least you can worry that the bike can last you for quite a while. Parts nonetheless, should you want to change them would definitely be expensive. But you have no worries since it's aggressive enough.

Besides, Rs4 is over-rated and definitely cannot satisfy your craving.. which will lead to my point 3 later.

 

SP/Kawa. Very susceptible to to kana with LTA.. Known to be a "ah beng" bike.. Practically, there is NO ORIGINAL bike left since there are some things that is definitely change. You don't know the history of the bike.. countless previous owner.. countless makeover..

Comes very cheap, but the maintenance is a killer... You never know what would spoil and what need to change. Rectifier for this instance already cost 100 over.. no doubt there are 2nd hand and after market parts, but how long can it last?

 

Final point.

You will never be satisfy with just a bike. Human hand and mind are very itchy. Especially young one.. There are some point you would want to go over to the north to change parts.. performance parts.. cosmetic..

Fuel for SP/KRR is also very inefficient and costly.

 

How are you going to weight all this? Ask you buy SP/Krr also not right.. ask you to buy brand new aprillia also not right.

[Hydher]

Hi yoshino

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

Well if you have no disposable income I'd like to break it to you that sportbikes are the wrong direction to look to save money.

Insurance, fuel, gears and buying dinner for hot babes.

I would say, its either you run them at its optimum or it would not run at all.

 

If youre looking at that 3 2b sportsbike, it runs on two stroke oil.

That would require greasy-expensive-time-consuming maintainence of valves, carburettor and mid pipes due to the build up of carbon. eg normal transport bikes $20-30 per service, yours 80-100.

Yes. these bikes are really fast but with the tire and brakes, it puts you at risk.

 

Being a 2b sportsbike, everyone will run the bike on high rpm and occasional top speed test stressing the engine.

Kawa and sp being old, more stressed out engines. Bring a friend if in doubt.

 

By this, im sure the kawa or sp would definitely be cheaper by bounds to repair being that its more popular here and that sets healthy competition. eg 800 for a overhaul on the kawa and 2-3 times for the aprilla. Same goes for other parts by wear and tear or crash.

 

If the sp/kawa set aside 1k.

If the aprilla set aside 2k.

 

Insurance for p plate is about 1.2k at least

 

For kubs its 800

For ybr etc its 600

 

for road tax since most sp n kawa are 10 years or more. 64 on the first year and 10% increase yearly till 50%.

[ki113r]

Erm, if FZ16 feels small for u, then SP or KRR is even smaller ma. Get a KTM Duke or Yamaha R125 lor?

[WanFazer]

B4 u even get a bike, check wats ur budget bro... Old bikes, cheaper mthly installment but higher running cost vs a new bike... Dun forget e insurance premium dat u have to pay... Most importantly, get someone whom have essential experince to go to e bike shop with u.. Else u kena carrot for sure...

 

Make sure u ask e hidden clause such as early settlent fees, late payment penalty etc... Dun make decision in a haste.. Scout a different bikeshops n compare prices.. Good luck !!

[Jehuty]

Shut up and get a TZM la.

[Heathx]

Hi bro! Welcome to SBF!

 

I think size isn't a problem for your choices of bikes. i'm 1.79m myself and riding an SP.

 

Aprilia is a nice bike, but, maintenance is very costly. Be prepared to spend around 2-3 times more than SP or KRR maintenance.

 

SP/KRR not say cannot get good condition ones, but you will need someone who knows about them, and will be firm enough to tell you no, and you must have the humility and patience to accept their advice. Odds are there are some bikes out there with big problems, so finding one with minor problems is probably the best you can do. Fix the small problem, and the bike will be good to go.

 

Now, for your choices of bikes, they are 2-stroke machines. 2 strokes can either go by 2T pump or premix. 2-strokes require adding 2T oil into the petrol to lubricate the engine. The actual 4T engine oil we put into the bike only affects the gears, does not affect engine at all. I hope this does not confuse u.

 

Premix and pump are 2 ways to deliver 2T into the petrol. Premix means your bike has no 2T reservoir and pump, everytime you pump petrol, you agaration 20ml of 2T per litre of petrol. Cough medicine bottles are good for measuring the amount to pour into ur fuel tank. Remember to shake your bike after pumping and before moving out to ensure the 2T and petrol mixed well. This method is more lecih, but you don't have to worry about pump spoil and causing piston jam.

 

Reservoir + pump system is much less troublesome. You just pour your 2T into the reservoir bottle, and adjust the settings on the pump as to how much 2T you want to mix with the petrol. Got minimum/maximum setting one. But if you ride halfway and your pump spoil, i pray you dun get piston jam on expressway during rush hour.

 

As for petrol, my SP is managing a 20km/litre on average. sometimes it good mood, then 25km/litre also have. Sometimes jam until macam constipation for 3 days in a row, then can drop to 18km/litre, cos lanesplit then go slower to avoid getting into that fz8 scenario.

 

On to insurance. 2B sports bike at your age and p-plate. prepare to pay around 1.2k+ for 3rd party. I think only NTUC will cover your age range. I heard from my instructors that a few other insurance companies are not covering below 20yrs old.

 

A good condition SP will cost maybe around 2k-2.5k. As some bros here mentioned, the SPs you get now are probably modded in some way. So please do bring along someone experienced.

 

As to which bike will kena stop by TP more... 99% depend on the rider attitude in riding. If fast and furious, then +500% chance of stopped. If slow and steady, then -50% chance. The other 1% of being stopped is either random check or TP want to check out your bike cos too chio. LTA is the one that will stop u for inspection.

 

Lastly, whether to ride for 2yrs then go class 2 bike, is a decision you have to make for yourself. My advice is, if you plan to go 600cc only, then it can be done, safely. But you have to be mindful and be very cautious with your throttle in the first 2 weeks. If you want to go 1000cc, then i would suggest going 2A first. I plan to get a CBR1000RR when i get my class 2. But i think there is wisdom in taking steps in reaching that goal, in the interest of safety. My friend was showing me the difference btn my SP and FZ1 when i told him i wanted to skip 2A. He let me throttle his bike at neutral gear, and from that moment on, i know i want to take that intermediate step. Especially more since 2-stroke 2b to 4-stroke class 2 superbike.

[haoKR]

i was like you last time,considering kr or rs125.but got a kr instead.

kr otr 2-3k,rs ard 13k+ otr(1st hand)

but if u paying by installment,then anything man

 

any budget ?

 

but if u gona chiong 2a and 2 in the next 2yrs,and get a cls 2 bike,try not to get a 1st hand cls 2b bike..

[yoshino305]

Really thanks for replying my posts.

@foxin: yeah, thats what i been thinking about all day long, 1. If i buy sp/kawa= even with minor problems, i think the problems already big. 2. Buy aprillia= Costly, Maintenance= Costly,mod costy etc etc (Summary very expensive). 3= If i don't totally figure this out, i would have much bigger problems in the end. Is it possible to Change everything on SP( 1ST HAND PARTS) and make it brand new and still at manageble price?

 

@Hydher: Thanks for explaining, understand abit better now. But i prefer sports to others cus of the looks tbh, and willing to spend abit more than other bikes but main thing i am scared is i buy sp= repair and buy parts till the whole thing actually cost more than aprillia in the end.

 

@killer: Considering cbr150 haha.

 

@Wan: ok thanks!

 

@Jehuty: I can't stop asking cause i don't want to end up on the road lying down.

 

@heath: Thanks for enlightening me on several things, is it possible for SP to go through replacing everything and the price still ok? Even if i replace the main parts would it give problems ?

 

@Hao: Ok thanks keep that in mind.

Edited February 26, 2013 by yoshino305
Not complete.

[haoKR]

find 1 expert wif u if u wan a sp/kr

[Jehuty]

IMO get a 4 stroke like Spark, can use until class 2 and serve as a sidebike. My 2 cents.

[foxin]

Really thanks for replying my posts.

@foxin: yeah, thats what i been thinking about all day long, 1. If i buy sp/kawa= even with minor problems, i think the problems already big. 2. Buy aprillia= Costly, Maintenance= Costly,mod costy etc etc (Summary very expensive). 3= If i don't totally figure this out, i would have much bigger problems in the end. Is it possible to Change everything on SP( 1ST HAND PARTS) and make it brand new and still at manageble price?

 

 

For SP and Krr, we cannot say minor problem or what.. All bike will have wear and tear, so it's inevitable.

If you're looking at changing everything into brand new parts.. how much brand new parts can you replace. The whole engine? The whole coolant system? How much you're prepared to incur? NS + Studies is a deadly combination.

Even if you go up north to M'sia for all these brand new parts/ after market parts, it wouldn't work the same way anymore. Besides, if you wanna change all inner parts, might as well you buy a brand new bike. Right?

 

My final verdict to your case will actually be not getting yourself a bike.

New bike need atleast a downpayment of a good 2000 (I'm assuming you're below 21yo and P=plate, insurance is already some 1.1K). So it's out.

For old bike, budget is one very big headache here in SG with insurance, roadtax (since your's is an old bike, you need to pay like 20% more than normal road tax).

Fuel is increasing and sp/krr are not very fuel efficient. 1L some 20over KM.. at best you get 30. But what about engine oil change? 2T lub? de-carbonized? Wear and tear replacement?

 

If monthly you have no disposable income of around 300 a month (not including installment) you can forget about sportbike. (Note, this amt includes your savings for insurance next year)

 

BUT! Base on what Jerhuty mention.. you can actually find yourself mantaining better with a spark/ wave.. actually. Maybe you can consider that. Those machine somehow are hardy for some reason.

[bruce71]

no offence, as i am also new here, this is what i observed here...a trend...

 

newbie come here ask questions here & there, what is good/bad, what bike should i buy?

 

old birds helpful give their opinions. different old bird give different opinions. sometimes their opinions contradict...argument start...some really cunning experienced very old birds keep quiet as they have all seen it before...hehehe

 

after all the info, newbie read here read there, ask here ask there. after that, newbie ignores everything & go buy what he initially set eyes on...the sexy bike he had seen & wanted all along, to hell with alll those conflicting opinions & complicated knowledge.

 

end of story until another newbie come here ask again 'hi, i am newbie, old birds what bike should i buy ah?'...process repeated...

 

if newbie is young female, lagi more response, sometimes months after still got guys reply even when the newbie female say won't buy bike already, left the forum & moved on, hahaha...

[foxin]

Definitely! If all the presume "old birds" were to have one united answer to everything that will be said, then wouldn't it be a scam?

Or maybe countries wouldn't even have differences. Different school of thoughts and coming point IMO. (Words hare hash cause they dont carry tone, I'm not being mean ahr. Peace peace..)

 

Well.. Newbie or not, who ever comes here is to gain something from what other people see. This forum ranges from ah pek chill'n riding to lacer wannabe to motorbike stylist and so on.. it's a community!

So for instance I'm coming in on a point of view as a person who set his mind as a tourer, naturally I wouldn't be so interested in stuff such as "what engine blok brand is better, what gives a better grip on the asphalt during wet condition" and so on...

Newbie finds enlightenment, newbie gains. Wanna still be bloody stupid to get into trouble, by all means. I'm not a brother by blood to any of them.. I have no control to some extend :)

 

Female? Why not?! Put down the "tiko pek? mentality. Should a female comes along, naturally people will perceive her as not being as knowledgeable since it's stereotype as guys being more of a motorhead. If she is, then wouldn't it be good that the nature of course called "same characteristic" arises and might the 2 want to form a bond somehow? (I believe alot of bros here finds char bo into bike are hot.. right?)

Can help then help lo... No harm ma~

Click here, read liao.. comment lo. Cannot help? Discuss.. Cannot discuss? Have a nice day!

[Heathx]

Almost all second hand bikes older than 3 yrs will have some form of problem. Nothing to do with rider good or not , it's purely mechanical; wear and tear occurs, machines break down. Good riders maintain to keep the problems as minor and minimal as possible. Bad riders on the other hand, as long as the bike can move can liao.

 

Hmmm.... Let's look at a price perspective. Let's say you managed to get a good condition SP, that'll cost you probably 3.5k-4k on the road, meaning all expenses considered. This SP will run well, but you may have to do a top servicing, which will cost anywhere from $80-150, some replacement of a random part, $20(minor part)-$300(fork or magneto coil). It's quite a sum already and the bike is running probably around 80%, total cost, agaration give you $4.3k.

 

If you plan to totally do up the bike with new parts, prepare to spend another $2k at least then, though highly likely more. Engine overhaul i heard is $800. Replace both front fork, original Jap made is $300 per fork, give discount $550. Magneto coil and rectifier (to charge your battery) is $300. Exhaust system if want to replace new, is another few hundreds. Brake pads, brake lines, brake pumps, electrical lines, all these costs money to the hundreds totalled up too. In the end, you'll prolly spend $6-8k on the SP if you redo everything. Totally not worth it, might as well get a brand new CBR150R or a R15.

 

I saw that you are considering CBR150R. It's a nice bike, but i must warn you that at low rev, the bike has very low power. The power kicks in at 8k rpm. R15 is probably a better choice. I heard it has less torque issues than the CBR150R, but i have not tried personally.

 

My advice is that if you want a 2b sports bike with no problems, then get a brand new, but prepare to fork out 2x the amount ($8-9k) over a 2nd-hand SP or KR($4k). Also, if you are getting 2A bike, then be prepared to make a big loss when selling the 2b bike too($1-2k loss).

 

If all you're planning is to ride 2b for a year, then up to 2a, and you only want sports bike, then get a good condition SP. For some reason, i find SP tend to be better maintained than KRRs.

 

When you do get the SP, whatever parts that can still be use, just use and maintain unless it spoil then replace. You can lessen the amount spent on replacing parts if you have a good shifu to teach you what parts to check and how to determine it's good or not. No point replacing parts that are 80% ok and don't pose life-threatening danger. The good thing is, even if the part is say at 60% condition when you initially get the bike, sometimes after you do servicing and maintain nicely, the part will become 80% condition one. Exhaust system, previous owner never decarbonis, then will be very heavy and bike will like no power, but once decarbonised, world of difference. Piston, carburator before and after cleaning will have big difference also. Just like bike chain, if the previous owner never degrease, it'll have lumps of dirty grease and look damn cui, but once you decrease and clean the chain, then add a new layer of chain lube, chain will be shiny, unless rusted.

 

 

TL;DR

 

Get the best conditioned SP you can find, get a good mech to service it, then spend the rest of the money on safety riding equipment like protective jacket, fullface helmet, armored gloves. Machine is one part of the equation. You can have brand new bike, but your safety gears not good, in a fall, chances of bad things happening not any lower.

Edited February 27, 2013 by Heathx
added TL;DR

[bruce71]

Definitely! If all the presume "old birds" were to have one united answer to everything that will be said, then wouldn't it be a scam?

Or maybe countries wouldn't even have differences. Different school of thoughts and coming point IMO. (Words hare hash cause they dont carry tone, I'm not being mean ahr. Peace peace..)

 

Well.. Newbie or not, who ever comes here is to gain something from what other people see. This forum ranges from ah pek chill'n riding to lacer wannabe to motorbike stylist and so on.. it's a community!

So for instance I'm coming in on a point of view as a person who set his mind as a tourer, naturally I wouldn't be so interested in stuff such as "what engine blok brand is better, what gives a better grip on the asphalt during wet condition" and so on...

Newbie finds enlightenment, newbie gains. Wanna still be bloody stupid to get into trouble, by all means. I'm not a brother by blood to any of them.. I have no control to some extend :)

 

Female? Why not?! Put down the "tiko pek? mentality. Should a female comes along, naturally people will perceive her as not being as knowledgeable since it's stereotype as guys being more of a motorhead. If she is, then wouldn't it be good that the nature of course called "same characteristic" arises and might the 2 want to form a bond somehow? (I believe alot of bros here finds char bo into bike are hot.. right?)

Can help then help lo... No harm ma~

Click here, read liao.. comment lo. Cannot help? Discuss.. Cannot discuss? Have a nice day!

 

ok! agree! +1!

 

back to topic, tape replay:-

my 1.5 cents is

 

under 21, get old 125Z

under 25, get new jupiter MX135 / old RX-Z

after 25, get old KRR / new CBR150

 

but of course, as usual most newbies will ignore my 1.5 cents & go get the sexy RS4...

 

hahahaha lol, no offence, peace !

[Hydher]

Hi bro! Welcome to SBF!

 

I think size isn't a problem for your choices of bikes. i'm 1.79m myself and riding an SP.

 

Aprilia is a nice bike, but, maintenance is very costly. Be prepared to spend around 2-3 times more than SP or KRR maintenance.

 

SP/KRR not say cannot get good condition ones, but you will need someone who knows about them, and will be firm enough to tell you no, and you must have the humility and patience to accept their advice. Odds are there are some bikes out there with big problems, so finding one with minor problems is probably the best you can do. Fix the small problem, and the bike will be good to go.

 

Now, for your choices of bikes, they are 2-stroke machines. 2 strokes can either go by 2T pump or premix. 2-strokes require adding 2T oil into the petrol to lubricate the engine. The actual 4T engine oil we put into the bike only affects the gears, does not affect engine at all. I hope this does not confuse u.

 

Premix and pump are 2 ways to deliver 2T into the petrol. Premix means your bike has no 2T reservoir and pump, everytime you pump petrol, you agaration 20ml of 2T per litre of petrol. Cough medicine bottles are good for measuring the amount to pour into ur fuel tank. Remember to shake your bike after pumping and before moving out to ensure the 2T and petrol mixed well. This method is more lecih, but you don't have to worry about pump spoil and causing piston jam.

 

Reservoir + pump system is much less troublesome. You just pour your 2T into the reservoir bottle, and adjust the settings on the pump as to how much 2T you want to mix with the petrol. Got minimum/maximum setting one. But if you ride halfway and your pump spoil, i pray you dun get piston jam on expressway during rush hour.

 

As for petrol, my SP is managing a 20km/litre on average. sometimes it good mood, then 25km/litre also have. Sometimes jam until macam constipation for 3 days in a row, then can drop to 18km/litre, cos lanesplit then go slower to avoid getting into that fz8 scenario.

 

On to insurance. 2B sports bike at your age and p-plate. prepare to pay around 1.2k+ for 3rd party. I think only NTUC will cover your age range. I heard from my instructors that a few other insurance companies are not covering below 20yrs old.

 

A good condition SP will cost maybe around 2k-2.5k. As some bros here mentioned, the SPs you get now are probably modded in some way. So please do bring along someone experienced.

 

As to which bike will kena stop by TP more... 99% depend on the rider attitude in riding. If fast and furious, then +500% chance of stopped. If slow and steady, then -50% chance. The other 1% of being stopped is either random check or TP want to check out your bike cos too chio. LTA is the one that will stop u for inspection.

 

Lastly, whether to ride for 2yrs then go class 2 bike, is a decision you have to make for yourself. My advice is, if you plan to go 600cc only, then it can be done, safely. But you have to be mindful and be very cautious with your throttle in the first 2 weeks. If you want to go 1000cc, then i would suggest going 2A first. I plan to get a CBR1000RR when i get my class 2. But i think there is wisdom in taking steps in reaching that goal, in the interest of safety. My friend was showing me the difference btn my SP and FZ1 when i told him i wanted to skip 2A. He let me throttle his bike at neutral gear, and from that moment on, i know i want to take that intermediate step. Especially more since 2-stroke 2b to 4-stroke class 2 superbike.

 

My gsxr 1000 averages at 17-18km/L

[Hydher]

ok! agree! +1!

 

back to topic, tape replay:-

my 1.5 cents is

 

under 21, get old 125Z

under 25, get new jupiter MX135 / old RX-Z

after 25, get old KRR / new CBR150

 

but of course, as usual most newbies will ignore my 1.5 cents & go get the sexy RS4...

 

hahahaha lol, no offence, peace !

 

Seen too many

The brakes beri good though.

Many times i confuse it with a 600cc

[WanFazer]

Bro, if die2 muz get bike bt no budget, e best solution is to find sugar mummy to sappork u hehe... But if u find 1, muz find for me oso ok hehe...

 

Joke aside, seriously if u aint got e budget, forget bout getting a bike... NS allowance wnt b enuf to cover ur expenses... Complete ur NS, find a stable job n save up.. Meantime take public transport then after a yr, take class 2A, another yr later take class 2.. By e time perhaps u oreidi got a stable job n have savings... Then go shopping for a class 2 bike...

 

To me, its juz a myth not to b able to control a class 2 bike without gg thru e steps... Coz i've known frens who straight away took class 2 without gg thru class 2B n 2A n immediately bought a class 2 bike n have no issues bout getting use to it...

 

Niway, ultimately e choice is urs... Juz hope dat u wnt make e wrong decision n regrets later coz by then its too late...