[Group] YAMAHA Fazer

[dragonforce]

can... but there's a few factors to be considered lei bro...

 

 

HID actually consume slightly more current than Halogen...

 

are you going to replace it for both sides?

if yes, please take note that one side is H7 and the other is H4...

 

the beam pattern of H7 & H4 is different, hence you probably wanna take note of this...

H4 is more powerful then H7 fyi...

 

when you installed HID, please take note that you will lose the function of immediate beam response e.g trying to high beam others...

hence in this case, you probably have to disable your bypass cus it will not work like wad you wished it to be...

 

if you install HID directly into our stock headlight case, you will be like me, blinding everyone who is in my path...

if that's the case, you probably got to install eye lids like me but it's kinda will not pass when it comes to inspection...

 

you may also consider doing a dual headlight mod cus 1 eyed HID headlight is kinda out of tune...

 

you may also consider doing a headlight switch to cut off your headlights to prevent unnecessary usage...

 

like what i had mentioned earlier, the best way to get the damm thing out of it is to do a headlight projector mod...

this will solve all beam issues...

but to do this mod is frickn' not easy... even dragonforce who is expert in DIY mods also freak off... hahahaha!

 

maybe more ba... hahahaha...

maybe for a detailed review from me, u can treat me kopi and i can share wif u over chats... hehehehe...

 

i very lousy in diy mods leh.. lol.. i only know how to read up and do some research.. but when it comes to doing it, i am very lousy, ESPECIALLY ELECTRIC stuff.

but from what i observed on my old bike, the HID actually consumed slightly less than my halogen. of cos not really accurate lah. i nv use multimeter to test, just those voltmeters.

 

the projector / angel eye mod is still screaming at me to attempt it. i think it always will until i have done it. lol.

 

Correct me if i'm wrong.

 

ideal current should not fall below 12V (undercharge) & not above 15V (overcharge). Or perhaps is different with Fazer?

 

i think anything below 12.5v is quite low already. anything above 13.5 is quite high. once again, not very accurate cos readings are from voltmeter, not multimeter.

there's a concern for my bike cos hardly can get above 13.2V. in fact, quite often below 13V. i will monitor closely again. probably get my mech to test from the battery.

[jairz]

can... but there's a few factors to be considered lei bro...

 

 

HID actually consume slightly more current than Halogen...

 

are you going to replace it for both sides?

if yes, please take note that one side is H7 and the other is H4...

 

the beam pattern of H7 & H4 is different, hence you probably wanna take note of this...

H4 is more powerful then H7 fyi...

 

when you installed HID, please take note that you will lose the function of immediate beam response e.g trying to high beam others...

hence in this case, you probably have to disable your bypass cus it will not work like wad you wished it to be...

 

if you install HID directly into our stock headlight case, you will be like me, blinding everyone who is in my path...

if that's the case, you probably got to install eye lids like me but it's kinda will not pass when it comes to inspection...

 

you may also consider doing a dual headlight mod cus 1 eyed HID headlight is kinda out of tune...

 

you may also consider doing a headlight switch to cut off your headlights to prevent unnecessary usage...

 

like what i had mentioned earlier, the best way to get the damm thing out of it is to do a headlight projector mod...

this will solve all beam issues...

but to do this mod is frickn' not easy... even dragonforce who is expert in DIY mods also freak off... hahahaha!

 

maybe more ba... hahahaha...

maybe for a detailed review from me, u can treat me kopi and i can share wif u over chats... hehehehe...

 

sounds like installing alarm will be a simpler option for me... Whahahahha!

[pichudot]

i very lousy in diy mods leh.. lol.. i only know how to read up and do some research.. but when it comes to doing it, i am very lousy, ESPECIALLY ELECTRIC stuff.

but from what i observed on my old bike, the HID actually consumed slightly less than my halogen. of cos not really accurate lah. i nv use multimeter to test, just those voltmeters.

 

the projector / angel eye mod is still screaming at me to attempt it. i think it always will until i have done it. lol.

 

oh... tot u expert in mods and you sounds like one...

 

 

sounds like installing alarm will be a simpler option for me... Whahahahha!

 

hahahaha... lazy bums...

shouldn't have tell u that much... let you buy liao then LL had to do then share wif u...

[DeusExMachina]

yalor, very unfriendly leh you..

 

let me know when you coming then i appear..oh ya...xxlb

 

 

Tuesday almost impossible la. Seriously. Work and errands.

Friday maybe. I go out more often on weekends.

[d3an_cain]

Hi bro,with or without a speedohealer...-5.2% difference with stock gearing,even worse with a 16t,-10.8%.:faint:Tested :- 280KM/h with a 16T @ 11500 without speedohealer(253km/h with speedohealer) clocked on my top speed recall.

 

sdeepohealer?? pardon my noob qsn.. but whats that? doin research b4 committing myself to a class2 bike..

[dragonforce]

 

oh... tot u expert in mods and you sounds like one...

 

 

 

 

hahahaha... lazy bums...

shouldn't have tell u that much... let you buy liao then LL had to do then share wif u...

no lah.. probably sound like 1 only cos i read up on it lor.. if i expert i straight away ship in the projectors and diy already..

[dolf]

sdeepohealer?? pardon my noob qsn.. but whats that? doin research b4 committing myself to a class2 bike..

Hi,it calibrates your speedometer to display the 'real' speed as the factory setting is not accurate:(.

[Intruder]

Correct me if i'm wrong.

 

ideal current should not fall below 12V (undercharge) & not above 15V (overcharge). Or perhaps is different with Fazer?

 

Just to share.

 

12.8V & above ~ Fully charged.

12.7V & below ~ Require charging.

Under 12.0V ~ Replacement of battery require.

 

For accurate Volt reading, battery should be measured after the machine / Charging stop for 30 mins.

 

On my old Honda bike. The charging device should charge the battery within certain operation range. If the charging device charging current / voltage over certain limit, that mean the charger is not able to regulate the charging current, hence the battery is being 'pump' with excessive input. It will cause the battery to die early and if bad luck, may cause explosion or leak as the battery is very very hot. My battery was changed for only 9mths and it dies on me. Later realized my rectifier is kaput too.

 

When rev over certian rpm, the charger (recifier) should automatically regulate or cut the input current and ONLy maintain at certain upper limit rating.

[jairz]

Just to share.

 

12.8V & above ~ Fully charged.

12.7V & below ~ Require charging.

Under 12.0V ~ Replacement of battery require.

 

For accurate Volt reading, battery should be measured after the machine / Charging stop for 30 mins.

 

On my old Honda bike. The charging device should charge the battery within certain operation range. If the charging device charging current / voltage over certain limit, that mean the charger is not able to regulate the charging current, hence the battery is being 'pump' with excessive input. It will cause the battery to die early and if bad luck, may cause explosion or leak as the battery is very very hot. My battery was changed for only 9mths and it dies on me. Later realized my rectifier is kaput too.

 

When rev over certian rpm, the charger (recifier) should automatically regulate or cut the input current and ONLy maintain at certain upper limit rating.

 

wah..............

[maxxmadness]

you can find out if your battery or your rectifier is faulty by feel / touch if your battery has been going flat these days.

 

after riding for awhile, feel your rectifier, if your rectifier is cool to the touch, then you have a faulty rectifier...change your rectifier. if it warm to the touch, that shows your rectifier is working, your battery is at fault. your battery is unable to hold charge, change the battery asap. Using a faulty battery will in turn damage the rectifier in the long run

[Yatz86]

sdeepohealer?? pardon my noob qsn.. but whats that? doin research b4 committing myself to a class2 bike..

 

dont know of any sdeepohealer.

 

 

but if its a speedohealer ure referring to, its a device to rectify the speedometer error.

 

 

Stock setting bike has a speedometer error of at least 10% off. This means that if ure travelling lets say 90km/h the actual travelling speed is actually 10% lesser. Add it other items like 16t sprocket and ure reading is worse from ure meter.

 

to add on 1 extra function is that it is able to recall ure top speed when on the bike.

 

for more reading can go here

 

and TGIF pp!!

[pichudot]

dont know of any sdeepohealer.

 

 

but if its a speedohealer ure referring to, its a device to rectify the speedometer error.

 

 

Stock setting bike has a speedometer error of at least 10% off. This means that if ure travelling lets say 90km/h the actual travelling speed is actually 10% lesser. Add it other items like 16t sprocket and ure reading is worse from ure meter.

 

to add on 1 extra function is that it is able to recall ure top speed when on the bike.

 

for more reading can go here

 

and TGIF pp!!

 

u installed already bro?

[Yatz86]

u installed already bro?

 

 

nah u know im not a gizmo kindda person:cheeky:

[pichudot]

nah u know im not a gizmo kindda person:cheeky:

 

can try to be one...

btw, how was ur bike? any difference from before and now?

[Yatz86]

can try to be one...

btw, how was ur bike? any difference from before and now?

 

gotten fresh new PR2 tyres after 26k on stocks:cheeky:

 

awesome tyres I must say.

 

and new HEL brake hose.

 

now considering LED signal lights for my front and back:angel:

 

have to ease on the mods a bit....been frequent to dinners and movies these few weeks:faint:

[pichudot]

gotten fresh new PR2 tyres after 26k on stocks:cheeky:

 

awesome tyres I must say.

 

and new HEL brake hose.

 

now considering LED signal lights for my front and back:angel:

 

have to ease on the mods a bit....been frequent to dinners and movies these few weeks:faint:

 

alw date girls out wad... that's y no time for us and no monie for mods...

[Yatz86]

alw date girls out wad... that's y no time for us and no monie for mods...

 

Girl not girls:faint:

 

im no player:cheeky:

 

anyway just received another assignment to do for school and been going for countless interviews which takes out a chunk of my time liao~~

[dragonforce]

Girl not girls:faint:

 

im no player:cheeky:

 

anyway just received another assignment to do for school and been going for countless interviews which takes out a chunk of my time liao~~

haha..

all the best for your interviews..

[DeusExMachina]

gotten fresh new PR2 tyres after 26k on stocks:cheeky:

 

awesome tyres I must say.

 

and new HEL brake hose.

 

now considering LED signal lights for my front and back:angel:

 

have to ease on the mods a bit....been frequent to dinners and movies these few weeks:faint:

 

 

What was your stock tyres?

 

I've already gone thru a set of Pilot Power 2CTs and BT-016s each. They grip good but wear fast. And due to work and sh1t, I don't foresee myself doing much touring this year. Commuting, yes. So not worth buying the "latest" tyres.

 

Looking for cheaper tyres to use and throw. PR2 sounds good, but they are cost as much as the abovementioned, and don't offer as much grip, but they do last longer. How much longer?

 

I was thinking of older models like Alpha 10, M3, etc. Should have discounts on those.

[dragonforce]

i used a11 on my s4 before.. very very good grip, but very fast wear off also.. looking for something more grippy now.. currently still on the stock bt020, wet road grip very bad..

[Fazer 9553]

Just my opinion - you may find different - but I've had so many sets of BT020 and 021 - find they are better and cheaper than any of the other "sport touring" tyres. Strange, but I trust them most in the wet - as good as the PR2 but less $$ (that's P 'Road' 2 - not 'Race')

Edited March 12, 2010 by Fazer 9553

[dragonforce]

Just my opinion - you may find different - but I've had so many sets of BT020 and 021 - find they are better and cheaper than any of the other "sport touring" tyres. Strange, but I trust them most in the wet - as good as the PR2 but less $$ (that's P 'Road' 2 - not 'Race')

i have used bt021 before as well on my s4.. its good as a touring and commuting tyre. but the bt020 is, far below my expectations.

[åŒåšåº]

i used a11 on my s4 before.. very very good grip, but very fast wear off also.. looking for something more grippy now.. currently still on the stock bt020, wet road grip very bad..

for me i'm using diablo strada, find it quite gd for dry & wet condition...

[Yatz86]

What was your stock tyres?

 

I've already gone thru a set of Pilot Power 2CTs and BT-016s each. They grip good but wear fast. And due to work and sh1t, I don't foresee myself doing much touring this year. Commuting, yes. So not worth buying the "latest" tyres.

 

Looking for cheaper tyres to use and throw. PR2 sounds good, but they are cost as much as the abovementioned, and don't offer as much grip, but they do last longer. How much longer?

 

I was thinking of older models like Alpha 10, M3, etc. Should have discounts on those.

 

stock tyres was bt020. good on dry roads, terrible on wets.

 

hm,no idea how long pr2 tyres will last cause this is my very 1st aftermarket tyres:faint:

[dragonforce]

stock tyres was bt020. good on dry roads, terrible on wets.

 

hm,no idea how long pr2 tyres will last cause this is my very 1st aftermarket tyres:faint:

i agree.. its really terrible on wet roads. didnt give me any confidence at all.

 

i am tempted to get the dragon supercorsa, or the bt003rs..

 

power 1, racetec, or diablo sc out of my budget range..