[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[stsoh]

stsoh.. is it possible to bore our cylinder to 200cc? i think this topic was sorta discussed before, but i really wanna find out wads the possibilities....

 

u have to ask spacerevo.

[suryadi]

wow!!! in tat case i shd change my tyres soon. haha. i'll try ur recommendation.. bt45 rite? anyway, u know how much the tyres cost individually??

 

i'm pumping 200front and 230rear, cos i pillion almost 100%, not getting any bubbles... u said the mech said wrong pressure is it? is it the mech at bukit merah? did he say wad was the pressure then??

 

anyway, i'm using 4th slot now. getting pretty decent fc now. power wise, it's significantly lesser but i got used to it quite fast. so i guess u will get used to it soon too!

 

 

Hmm.. Individually, the front is around $100-$130.. then the rear cost ard $15-$25 more...

 

If you go to the bike shops... 3 basic questions they will ask..

1) Made in Japan vs Europe vs some other country (taiwan, Thailand, korea etc...)

2) Budget

3) size.

 

So naturally i went for "made in Japan".

3 tyre makes for us... F: 110/70-17 R: 130/70-17

Dunlop TT900 - Quoted $265

Bridgestone Battlax BT45 - $235 ($220 @ HKL) [F: $110, R: $125]

Something something Aeromax (can't remember) - $245

 

The TT900 is favoured among those kupkias.. especially those delivery riders.. probly cos of its lower wear rate, and better grip on wet & dry (better, not best), compared to OEMs.

 

Also checked, the Duro tyres are $200. Cheaper than what CKA HQ is offering..

 

Manufacturer says that those made in japan tyres are generally better suited for our environment. European tyres (michellin for example) are not so suitable.. Those europe tyres have an uneven wear rate in our hot weather...

 

i'm pumping 200front and 230rear, cos i pillion almost 100%, not getting any bubbles... u said the mech said wrong pressure is it? is it the mech at bukit merah? did he say wad was the pressure then??

 

 

What AH Ping always do for me is F/R 200/220 for tyre pressure. But there are times that he put in 220/240 at my request cos i tell him I do a lot of pillioning.

 

Slightly overinflated tyres are good for pillioning as it would offer the same grip at a more comfy ride. However, when riding alone, the ride gets a lil bit more bumpy.

 

210/230 is still quite okay. not much diff anyway. Try out some tyre pressure combinations la, then ask ur pillion if got feel anything different. When i got my sprockets (chain + 15/42 sprockets = $150 @ CKA) tyres & bearings replaced, the gf felt a more comfy ride. So dun think that your pillion can't feel the difference.

 

oh, my earlier post abt $278 for wheels + bearings + rear brake pads is not without bargaining. SO confirm plus chop, the numbers dun add up.

 

For me, my priority is ride comfort. And i'm very sensitive to changes in my ride, like throttle response, braking noise, high speed vibes etc etc. So if I can't find the source, I'll get very worried. Once I know what causes the changes, then i feel better and assess myself if i need to replace the part, or tahan a bit longer.

 

anyway, i'm using 4th slot now. getting pretty decent fc now. power wise, it's significantly lesser but i got used to it quite fast. so i guess u will get used to it soon too!

 

The adjusted slot didn't last me a week~! Too 'weak' for my liking. Again, cos i tend to cruise at high speed, i can feel the engine really strain and work hard to get to the speed I want. This results in a hotter engine. UNCOMFORTABLE! Can feel the heat radiating at the traffic lights. But wet pants dry faster.

 

Now it's back in the 3rd slot. But somehow today feel there's a loss in the top end power.

Edited February 13, 2009 by suryadi

[suryadi]

NOt too sure if you ever notice this, that your bike performs better at night (after 9pm) compared to the morning (after 8am).

 

Wonder why...

 

But my explanation is that the night air is cooler and more dense than daytime air. Hence this means a better combustion in the Engine. Likewise why turbo engines (in cars) have intercoolers to cooldown the air.

 

My friend says his Rw does 140 at night (i know this is not mechanically possible) while its only 120 tops in the day time... Dunno true or not. But surely at night I feel there's a better throttle response, better aceleration...

 

Some food for thought...

[suryadi]

stsoh.. is it possible to bore our cylinder to 200cc? i think this topic was sorta discussed before, but i really wanna find out wads the possibilities....

 

Spacerevo did rebore his bike. 200cc Rw, with Yoshi pipe. He said he spent over 2k in 2 months to do this...

 

He did try 16/38 or 39 sprockets to try to manage a higher top speed (which is what some of us want) but according to him, at 5th gear, he can't pull beyond 5k rpm, perhaps due to an electronic power cut.

 

So i here, unless some mods are made regarding the power cut, there's no point making the change.

 

Doing the maths, my 125cc 15/42 runs 10k rpm at 120 kmh. give or take, around 11hp.

For him, its 200cc 16/39, 5k rpm @ 120 kmh, give take around 16hp.

 

not much diff i would say, except for a better pickup if he maintain at the same sprocket set up as i do, with a bit more to spare.

[suryadi]

hi bro.....bore to 200cc maybe can maybe can't...but the Q is how about the top speed? if after rebore to 200cc, the top speed can go to maybe 130 or maybe 140 then for me i can consider it...So what is yr opinion bro???

 

 

EFI engine x 125cc + 8.5k OTR x Perfectly legal = Top speed 145kmh. = RwR.

[aeykel]

bro stsoh..i wana ask u ques coz u r like a pro in bikes..hope u dun mind..

which is better..sohc or dohc..??and is there any diff between efi and fi..??

[stsoh]

....which is better..sohc or dohc..??

read this to find out:

http://paultan.org/archives/2005/06/22/sohc-vs-dohc-valvetrains/

 

"SOHC 16 valve engine would have better torque on the low end where the DOHC valvetrain’s weight results in lower torque. But at high engine speeds, the 16 valve DOHC engine’s peak torque and horsepower would be greater. That’s the trade-off. With the amount of valves being equal, SOHC has better low-end torque because the valvetrain package is lighter while DOHC has better top-end power."

 

 

and is there any diff between efi and fi..??

efi = electronic fuel injection.

fi = fuel injection (mechanical type).

 

there r mechanical fuel injection n r use by all diesel engines.

most current bikes n all cars r using efi (for better control of exhaust emissions).

[aeykel]

ok..thanks for the xplanation..currently riding rwr..which type of petrol would u recommen..im using esso the 800 type..and wat must we use to lube our chain..??can use wd40??

[stsoh]

ok..thanks for the xplanation..currently riding rwr..which type of petrol would u recommen..im using esso the 800 type..

 

there is a international standard guide to grade petrol quality around the world.

http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/Reference/RONMONPON.html

 

it's a grade guide to prevent pre-detonation (knocking or pinging).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pre-ignition

 

base on the engine compression ratio (cr), for example:

below 10:1 cr, use ron 92.

betwn 10~12:1 cr, use ron 95.

above 12:1 cr, use ron 98 or above.

 

rw cr is 10.7:1, i use ron95, eg shell95.

rwR cr is 11.8, u can use ron95.

 

but if u feels your engine is knocking or pinging, try use next higher grade like ron98 eg shell98.

 

 

 

and wat must we use to lube our chain..??can use wd40??

to lubricate chain, use chain lub like PJ1, maxima chain wax or any chain lub design to lubricate chain.

 

pls read instruction n wat does wd40 do.

 

DO NOT use wd40 to lub chain becoz it is not design to function as a chain lubrication.

 

DO NOT use wd40 to clean chain.

 

pls use chain cleaner, kerosene or diesel to clean chain.

[aeykel]

so where can i purchase the chain lub..?any bike shop?

[stsoh]

yes, any bike shop or any bike accessories shop.

[raden]

Spacerevo did rebore his bike. 200cc Rw, with Yoshi pipe. He said he spent over 2k in 2 months to do this...

 

He did try 16/38 or 39 sprockets to try to manage a higher top speed (which is what some of us want) but according to him, at 5th gear, he can't pull beyond 5k rpm, perhaps due to an electronic power cut.

 

So i here, unless some mods are made regarding the power cut, there's no point making the change.

 

Doing the maths, my 125cc 15/42 runs 10k rpm at 120 kmh. give or take, around 11hp.

For him, its 200cc 16/39, 5k rpm @ 120 kmh, give take around 16hp.

 

not much diff i would say, except for a better pickup if he maintain at the same sprocket set up as i do, with a bit more to spare.

 

 

So if that is the answer, then it is better to stick to the original concept am i rite bro??? Furthermore it is a waste...{ $$$$ }

 

[stsoh]

after long period of riding (>30,000km).

u will find the jet-needle neck where the eclip is located will be worn out.

wear is due vibration, jet-needle is moving up n down in the throttle valve.

combining roy n my method, this is it, prevention of jet-needle wear (see pic):

 

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3168/methodpreventingjetneeduv3.jpg

[Suppose]

finally got my roadwin..i rode it all the way back to kl from johor bahru which was about 400km..something i'm experiencing now is that my bike vibrates violently when i rev more than 3000 rpm..is it normal?

[stsoh]

yes, it vib between 4~5k rpm n above 8k rpm.

 

u don't have to ride at tat range.

smooth ride between 6~8k rpm @ 70~100 kph.

 

speedometer have about 8~10% read error like any other bikes.

tat means if u r doing 70 kph, real speed is 63~65 kph.

80 kph = real speed 72~74 kph.

90 kph = real speed 81~83 kph.

100 kph = real speed 90~92 kph.

110 kph = real speed 100~102 kph.

120 kph = real speed 108~111 kph.

[jonsng]

anyone wants to buy a daelim roadwin 125cc?? around 5years old bike.

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5077815#post5077815

 

no one really replied =/ i need to sell fast as i have a S4 currently too..

[raden]

finally got my roadwin..i rode it all the way back to kl from johor bahru which was about 400km..something i'm experiencing now is that my bike vibrates violently when i rev more than 3000 rpm..is it normal?

 

wow....that is a long run lah bro....hmmm i think the vibration sure like "HELL" am i rite bro???

 

[raden]

anyone wants to buy a daelim roadwin 125cc?? around 5years old bike.

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5077815#post5077815

 

no one really replied =/ i need to sell fast as i have a S4 currently too..

 

yours 5 yrs but mine is just 3 yrs only....anybody wanna buy pls let me know also bro....

 

[driftbaker]

hi bro.....bore to 200cc maybe can maybe can't...but the Q is how about the top speed? if after rebore to 200cc, the top speed can go to maybe 130 or maybe 140 then for me i can consider it...So what is yr opinion bro???

 

 

boring to 200cc is for the additional hp. whether to get to a higher top speed is a different thing. i think need to relook at alot of other factors eg: exhaust passage. the reason why i'm looking at boring is: i pillion almost 100% time. the weight of my bike, my pillion n me combined is damn heavy. n when i need to get out of tight situations with tat tiny 125cc, i cant get the power i need. so i'm looking at getting to higher cc.

[driftbaker]

Spacerevo did rebore his bike. 200cc Rw, with Yoshi pipe. He said he spent over 2k in 2 months to do this...

 

He did try 16/38 or 39 sprockets to try to manage a higher top speed (which is what some of us want) but according to him, at 5th gear, he can't pull beyond 5k rpm, perhaps due to an electronic power cut.

 

So i here, unless some mods are made regarding the power cut, there's no point making the change.

 

Doing the maths, my 125cc 15/42 runs 10k rpm at 120 kmh. give or take, around 11hp.

For him, its 200cc 16/39, 5k rpm @ 120 kmh, give take around 16hp.

 

not much diff i would say, except for a better pickup if he maintain at the same sprocket set up as i do, with a bit more to spare.

 

his was moriwaki (duno if it's a full system or not). it's a real pity he's not riding it anymore. i believe that bike is not tuned to it's full performance yet ie still can improve one...

[driftbaker]

there is a international standard guide to grade petrol quality around the world.

http://www.btinternet.com/~madmole/Reference/RONMONPON.html

 

it's a grade guide to prevent pre-detonation (knocking or pinging).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pre-ignition

 

base on the engine compression ratio (cr), for example:

below 10:1 cr, use ron 92.

betwn 10~12:1 cr, use ron 95.

above 12:1 cr, use ron 98 or above.

 

rw cr is 10.7:1, i use ron95, eg shell95.

rwR cr is 11.8, u can use ron95.

 

but if u feels your engine is knocking or pinging, try use next higher grade like ron98 eg shell98.

 

 

 

 

to lubricate chain, use chain lub like PJ1, maxima chain wax or any chain lub design to lubricate chain.

 

pls read instruction n wat does wd40 do.

 

DO NOT use wd40 to lub chain becoz it is not design to function as a chain lubrication.

 

DO NOT use wd40 to clean chain.

 

pls use chain cleaner, kerosene or diesel to clean chain.

 

cant agree more with stsoh!!!! dont use wd40!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i use pj1 to lub, and kerosene to clean. kerosene can get from hardshop or DIY shop. cheap cheap one. pj1 i got from ah boy.. bought for more than a year liao, still not yet use finish.. lol

[driftbaker]

i'm looking to mod my roadwin to get it to perform like a 250cc bike. wonder if any bros here got any suggestions.

 

this is my plan:

Stage 1: rebore to 200cc + full system exhaust

Stage 2: get an open-pod air air filter

Stage 3: change the carb is necessary

Stage 4: change sprocket settings

 

in between, monitor n tune as necessary.

 

this is just a very initial thinking.. not sure if it is feasible, therefore i would really appreciate if u all can provide feedback.

 

the reason y i wanna mod it is cos i really like the roadwin. there are no other class 2a bikes with such looks in singapore. maintenance wise, it's really cheap oso. i just cant bear to part with it for other 2a bikes, thus i really hope to be able to mod it up. i'm sure roadwinners in korea confirm got mod it up but too bad i have no chance to interact with them...

[AyamTandoori]

Hello...i'm new here..i also ride rw about 1 and half year..got it from my brother..very stylish design although low in power...want to know more about this bike..my bike is having major problem with gearbox i think..i cant use gear 3 as it will become lag..so i will enter gear 4 from gear 2 usually..so anybody can help me...also anybody from malaysia can tell me where to go for spare parts??i live in muar..so hard to search for spare parts...went to 4-5 shop still cant get spare part..very tension aaaarrrrrgggghhhh!!!!!

[stsoh]

i'm looking to mod my roadwin to get it to perform like a 250cc bike. wonder if any bros here got any suggestions.

 

this is my plan:

Stage 1: rebore to 200cc + full system exhaust

Stage 2: get an open-pod air air filter

Stage 3: change the carb is necessary

Stage 4: change sprocket settings

 

in between, monitor n tune as necessary.

 

this is just a very initial thinking.. not sure if it is feasible, therefore i would really appreciate if u all can provide feedback.

 

the reason y i wanna mod it is cos i really like the roadwin. there are no other class 2a bikes with such looks in singapore. maintenance wise, it's really cheap oso. i just cant bear to part with it for other 2a bikes, thus i really hope to be able to mod it up. i'm sure roadwinners in korea confirm got mod it up but too bad i have no chance to interact with them...

suggest u contact spacerevo n test out his bike b4 u do anything.

best thing to do is save your money n upgrade your licence to cl2.

switch to a litre bike, u will be smiling whenever u r riding.

big bikes r very fun, very fast n very hot.

no point gaining a few horsepower when u can 100 horses at once.

your pillion will be riding like a rollercoaster on every ride.

every things zipped by in seconds.

[Suppose]

hey guys..i have a big problem now. my bike won't start..it could start earlier this afternoon but when i revved it around 3-4 rpms in neutral a few times then the engine died, so i started it it again. i didn't ride the bike at all after that, just warming up the engine. after that i went to college and i just got home and wanted to go for a ride but sadly..my bike couldn't start all of a sudden..even in neutral..really need some ideas of what went wrong