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Posted (edited)
Ya. My bike fuel consumption 25-27km per litre. Quite good lar. But i tink my fuel gauge not accurate.

 

Coz sometimes after travelling 200km,my fuel gauge shows 1/4 full. But sometimes it shows 1/2 full. When i check e fuel level by openning e fuel lid,i couldn't realli tell if there's enuff petrol to last 400km.

 

Dats y e furthest i go before e nx fuel top-up is 300km max. Can anybody advise me wat to do? Thx..

 

one word for you. "TRY"

 

but before you do, do find the reserve lever/switch so that once you hit reserve, you can ride to the nearest petrol station... =)

 

Yes, the meter guage is not accurate. Shd be able to go around 100kms beforethe needle starts going down. and when u hit E, there's another 100 to go. Take note of where the needle points as the mileage reaches 400, as what stsoh mentioned.

 

Now my needle is spoilt. Always showing "E".

 

F = Full

E = Enough. LOL

Edited by suryadi

[31 Jan '08] - A Qualified Rider.

[19 Mar '08] - Daelim Roadwin 125

 

Between looks and speed, I pick looks.

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Posted
congrats.

did u get from cka or private sellers?

 

I got it from Bukit Batok's Midview Bldg, i think is CKA... I think i didnt get it at a good price, so hope the bike will live up to its price thou...

Posted

if u buy any bike from any shop, it will cost more $$$ coz they need to be profitable to sustain.

if u buy from privateers, depend on bike conditions still it need to send for repair.

as bike aged, condition deteriorates.

Posted
if u buy any bike from any shop, it will cost more $$$ coz they need to be profitable to sustain.

if u buy from privateers, depend on bike conditions still it need to send for repair.

as bike aged, condition deteriorates.

 

I agree w u. But it depends how much they gonna make from a bike. I just hope that this bike lives up to its price... $2.4k for a FX plate

Posted (edited)

it depends on wat's your expectations.

if u r those whom want speed, say above 130 kph like a 2-stroker than u be disappointed.

125/140cc 4-strokers, heavy with big tires = slow n steadfast bike.

 

note:

2nd gen rw with bigger engine cc is actually 140.2cc, not as advertised 150cc (X5).

Edited by stsoh
Posted
it depends on wat's your expectations.

if u r those whom want speed, say above 130 kph like a 2-stroker than u be disappointed.

125/140cc 4-strokers, heavy with big tires = slow n steadfast bike.

 

note:

2nd gen rw with bigger engine cc is actually 140.2cc, not as advertised 150cc (X5).

 

Hmm.. Good question on expectations.. Probably, i hope the condition and wear n tear of the bike is reasonably ok, cos i saw the mileage abt 25,000 km. N bike shop claimed tat no accidents before (but bike drop or skids r fine).

 

Im not ready for speed but just wanna do up the bike to not-so-original... Hehe

Posted

used to digg this machine, the rw.

 

but now, i digg the rwR more than my ride. lol :cheeky:

april 2009 to july 2011 - kawasaki krr150

june 2011 to sept 2013 - honda cb400 PB1

sept 2013 to nov 2014 - honda cb400 spec3

nov 2014 - honda cbr1000rr7

 

next ride?? :angel:

Posted (edited)

2004 naked carburetor single cam 4 valves air-cooled roadwin is the first generation.

2008 sport EFI twin-cam 4 valves water-cooled roadwin R is the latest generation.

some like sport, some like naked, some like cruiser, etc.......

 

i prefer naked over sport coz i find tat sport fairing a curse,

hate it coz will trap dirt if there is oil leak, troublesome to remove.

fairing will crack either during removal or drop bike or due to vib.

worst of all, completely thrash when crashed.

 

it's not tat we need aero-dynamics wind flow during ride within legal speed limits.

all a bike really needs is a windshield which is good enough.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

Dear All,

 

My naked roadwin has hit 30,000 kms under my care last night. =)

 

To note after 1 year of riding:

 

Fuel: ard 30km/l when just took. now is around 26km/l. Bike getting old, so fc shd increase.. but i love this bike for hte economy. 400kms on a full tank. can sometimes go up to a week before i need to pump.

 

Engine: losing power. That time use the OWS treatment, I thought i t would restore the bike performance, but its a drug. once you stop, it goes back to normal.

 

Tire wear: wear rate depending on rider. I'm very satisfied by my wear rate.

 

Maintenance: Oil change everymonth. Changed sparkies only once before. no problem = no change. But I feel that I need to go overhaul my engine. no notable problems at the moment, cept for loss of power and increased fc (due to wear and tear). any advise on whether i shd, or shd not? how much and how long does cka take?

 

Verdict: satisfied. not gonna sell it off, until someone tells me that he wants my bike.

 

But still snooping for a Spec 2...

[31 Jan '08] - A Qualified Rider.

[19 Mar '08] - Daelim Roadwin 125

 

Between looks and speed, I pick looks.

Posted
Dear All,

 

My naked roadwin has hit 30,000 kms under my care last night. =)

 

To note after 1 year of riding:

 

Fuel: ard 30km/l when just took. now is around 26km/l. Bike getting old, so fc shd increase.. but i love this bike for hte economy. 400kms on a full tank. can sometimes go up to a week before i need to pump.

 

Engine: losing power. That time use the OWS treatment, I thought i t would restore the bike performance, but its a drug. once you stop, it goes back to normal.

 

Tire wear: wear rate depending on rider. I'm very satisfied by my wear rate.

 

Maintenance: Oil change everymonth. Changed sparkies only once before. no problem = no change. But I feel that I need to go overhaul my engine. no notable problems at the moment, cept for loss of power and increased fc (due to wear and tear). any advise on whether i shd, or shd not? how much and how long does cka take?

 

Verdict: satisfied. not gonna sell it off, until someone tells me that he wants my bike.

 

But still snooping for a Spec 2...

 

Hi suryadi, congrats on ur yr old precious. Makes me look forward to mine liaoz! hehe.. Thou mine's left w 4yrs to go.. N glad to hear tat this bike has been quite problem free from wat u wrote, which makes me more assuring buying this bike... :cool:

Posted
Sup guys, been reading most of ur post. I'm interested in roadwin too .. approximatly how much is a 2nd hand rw?

 

I got my FX plate at $2.4k. :)

Posted
just the bike or with insurance ?

 

Shd b just e bike. But 1 advice i hav for u if u r planning to buy rw; if wanna get at cheaper price,buy from ppl thru this forum. If you buy from cka shop,e price is more ex. Can b up to $1k more ex. Go n spend some time researching on which one is cheaper. But if u buy from ppl,make sure u noe watever prob e bike has. Get somebody experienced with bikes to view e bike. Could b your father or friends hu r knowlegeable about bikes.

 

I quite regret buying from cka shop coz quite ex. Lucky dt time my father oso came to view e bike n help to bargain a bit. But still,i love my bike. No major prob so far. I consider it as value for money... :p

Posted

Any of u put box on ur rw? I used to put one during my ns,but decided to remove it afta 5 months coz doesn't look good wif a box to me..

Posted
Dear All,

 

My naked roadwin has hit 30,000 kms under my care last night. =)

 

To note after 1 year of riding:

 

Fuel: ard 30km/l when just took. now is around 26km/l. Bike getting old, so fc shd increase.. but i love this bike for hte economy. 400kms on a full tank. can sometimes go up to a week before i need to pump.

 

Engine: losing power. That time use the OWS treatment, I thought i t would restore the bike performance, but its a drug. once you stop, it goes back to normal.

 

Tire wear: wear rate depending on rider. I'm very satisfied by my wear rate.

 

Maintenance: Oil change everymonth. Changed sparkies only once before. no problem = no change. But I feel that I need to go overhaul my engine. no notable problems at the moment, cept for loss of power and increased fc (due to wear and tear). any advise on whether i shd, or shd not? how much and how long does cka take?

 

Verdict: satisfied. not gonna sell it off, until someone tells me that he wants my bike.

 

But still snooping for a Spec 2...

 

loss of power as in ur bike is slower? my bike is also around 4 years old and i feel that my acceleration in gear 1 is really slow and lacks torque..my bike fell sideways twice before though

Posted
loss of power as in ur bike is slower? my bike is also around 4 years old and i feel that my acceleration in gear 1 is really slow and lacks torque..my bike fell sideways twice before though

 

loss power, is comparitive. This is compared to when i first got it. CKA HQ did a carb wash for me when i first got it, so yea... can really feel the loss of power now.

 

Then again, it can be due to my sprocket ratio (15.42) and my tires (F: 110/70 R:130/70) which is slightly bigger than stock.

Stock gears are 14.42, and tyres F: 110/70, rear 140/60.

 

My bike eclip is on 3rd slot, and currently idling is slightly below 1.5k rpm.

 

If the bike feel sluggish, may want to consider adjusting the eclip to 4th slot (read the prev pages to find out what the eclip is, and how to adjust. too sleepy to explain here now)

 

Wanna ride my baby? then you can compare if its sluggish or not. Anyway, 1st gear meant for moving off, not meant to drag also...

 

Understand the bike first, then u'd know what to change or modify. no point changing everything to the best or most expensive parts when you hardly know your bike, in terms of performance (during wet/dry weather) and maintenance.

 

Need help, dun be shy to ask. We all learn together.

[31 Jan '08] - A Qualified Rider.

[19 Mar '08] - Daelim Roadwin 125

 

Between looks and speed, I pick looks.

Posted
Hi suryadi, congrats on ur yr old precious. Makes me look forward to mine liaoz! hehe.. Thou mine's left w 4yrs to go.. N glad to hear tat this bike has been quite problem free from wat u wrote, which makes me more assuring buying this bike... :cool:

 

Problem free? Hehe.. if you read my postings, u'd understand the little things i go thru with this bike..

 

Things i changed include bearing replacement for the wheels, front brake kit replacement, chanin and sprocket, tires replacement, brake pads tooo.... poor quality ones wear off faster than you can spell "Choong Kok Agency

 

Not cos of defects, but general wear and tear.

 

Honestly, be prepared to set aside on average, around $100 per month on maintenance, and this doesnt include petrol, insurance and road tax.

 

but the RW is a reliable transport bike. Its a Honda designed engine based on the CG125, and except for perhaps the sprockets engine parts and plastic body, everything else is interchangeable with either Yamaha or Honda aftermarket or Orig parts... so you can expect reliability to this engine.

 

Can fix RXZ head, or alien headlights. Katana, GSR, Sonic head lights as well.. windshield...

aftermarket sideview mirrors (or those fancy rectangular ones i'm eyeing)

 

Rear box, side box... Led lights... yoshi full system, and those fancy stuff...

 

Perhaps the only thing that you cant put on is a tank bra and bag.. havent seen a RW with one..

 

Again, the RW is a transport bike. Not meant for speed, nor stunts. but you can be assured when you ride over a pebble on the road, while taking a right hand corner at 80km/h, the rw will keep itself on the ground cos of the weight of the bike...

[31 Jan '08] - A Qualified Rider.

[19 Mar '08] - Daelim Roadwin 125

 

Between looks and speed, I pick looks.

Posted
Any of u put box on ur rw? I used to put one during my ns,but decided to remove it afta 5 months coz doesn't look good wif a box to me..

 

with box in day one....naked bike with box looks good.

Posted (edited)
.....Honestly, be prepared to set aside on average, around $100 per month on maintenance, and this doesnt include petrol, insurance and road tax.

tat's too much, maybe six months to one year if there r no major engine problems.

haven't change tires for 2 yrs, just change sprockets/chain set for S$120, it will last for two yrs also.

haven't change brake pads for 2 yrs.

oil change every four months, rp max-cycle $18 per btl.

oil filter every alternate oil change, S$7 per filter.

 

basically maintenance is cheap compared to class 2a/2 bikes, even cheaper than modern scooters.

 

....... Its a Honda designed engine based on the CG125, and except for perhaps the sprockets engine parts and plastic body, everything else is interchangeable with either Yamaha or Honda aftermarket or Orig parts... so you can expect reliability to this engine.

totally difference from cg engine, rw engine is daelim's design not honda's.

cg engine is old design, it's two-valves design whereas rw is 4-valves engine, notice the differences.

sprockets/chain r common among all small bikes, it's whether the shop willing to stock difference sizes or not.

 

note: daelim startup with honda as partners in korea, splitted apart later on.

currently daelim is sub-con to produce small bikes spare parts for honda.

Edited by stsoh
Posted (edited)
loss power, is comparitive. This is compared to when i first got it. CKA HQ did a carb wash for me when i first got it, so yea... can really feel the loss of power now.

 

Then again, it can be due to my sprocket ratio (15.42) and my tires (F: 110/70 R:130/70) which is slightly bigger than stock.

Stock gears are 14.42, and tyres F: 110/70, rear 140/60.

 

My bike eclip is on 3rd slot, and currently idling is slightly below 1.5k rpm.

 

If the bike feel sluggish......

basically cka will set carb back to default as of stock settings unless ask to do other else.

stock carb setting is lean, lack power.

need more power, set jet-needle's eclip to 4th slot since u r already at 3rd slot.

n also check your accelerator cam cable properly adjusted at max (cable-screw/lock-nut).

pilot-screw at stock setting is at 2 1/8, max setting is at 2 1/2 turns.

if backfire turn back (tighten) pilot-screw 1/8 turn until backfire stop.

 

my current carb setting is:

main-jet size is #102 (stock is #100).

slow-jet size is #40 (stock is #38).

jet-needle's eclip is in slot 4 (stock setting eclip is in 2nd slot).

pilot-screw is set at 1 1/8 turns, this is becoz of the larger slow-jet in use (stock is at 2 1/8 turns).

 

general guide for pilot-screw settings:

pilot-screw setting range is 1 (min) to 2 1/2 (max) turns.

wat's does this means?

it means turn pilot-screw all the way in until it bottoms.

(warning: do not over tighten, risk of breaking the pilot-screw end-tip)

once at bottom, unscrew 1.5 turns, this is the norm setting on most bike.

u can tighten pilot-screw in or out til min or max.

if less than 1 turn, replace slow-jet with one size smaller.

if more than 2.5 turns, replace slow-jet with one size bigger.

 

note:

pilot-screw is air-screw n air-screw is pilot-screw,

they r both the same but in different name.

tat's all.

Edited by stsoh

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