[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[phantomintheair]

So quiet today, Juz rode back my newly attain RW from CKA, its a wonderful bike dat comes wif stare from other riders haha

 

Initially the riding posture is very very awkward to me but after sometime I sort of gettin used to it. Yes, it is slower than my old ride but hey the only thing in my mind is I DON'T MIND. I was expecting this but I just love it to every bits.

[stsoh]

deleted...deleted.

Edited July 5, 2010 by stsoh

[dpquad]

Morning guys, just got my bike from CKA Bt Batok 2 days back. I hv to say tat im quite disappointed w buying the bike from them. Especially tat there isnt any braking for the rear when i stepped on the brake pedal! Also, when i engage first gear and move off, it slips constantly! I do hope they vouch for their "6 months warranty"...

 

Any workshop to recommend for servicing n repairs?

Edited May 22, 2009 by dpquad

[stsoh]

Morning guys, just got my bike from CKA Bt Batok 2 days back. I hv to say tat im quite disappointed w buying the bike from them. Especially tat there isnt any braking for the rear when i stepped on the brake pedal! Also, when i engage first gear and move off, it slips constantly! I do hope they vouch for their "6 months warranty"...

 

Any workshop to recommend for servicing n repairs?

well, u know there r problems, it's best get it repair.

any bikes will be shitty if no maintenances r maintained.

please follow owner's manual maintenance schedules.

 

no brakes = worn out or staled/harden brake pads (consumeable parts).

new brake pads need sometime for it to embed b4 it will bites.

 

constantly slip first/second gears = shifting gear dog is worn,

using good engine oil (consumeable parts) may help in less frequent of slips.

i did experienced constant slips when using cheap $10 semi-syn eo,

no more slips when i change eo using rp max-cycle 20w-50.

 

try use good engine oil like motul 300v, maxim, fuchs (silkolene), RP max-cycle, amsoil,....,etc.

all these r full synthetic n all either ester (group V) or PAO (group IV).

u may find some cheap label full syn but these r hydro-crack (semi-syn class A, group III) type.

it means a filteration method using dino based oil same as semi-syn.

 

it's better tat u return back to cka n ask for warranty.

if they r generous will give u free of charge.

consumeable parts r not cover under warranty.

u might want to buy eo n let them change for u.

brake pad they might charge for it or if pads r still thick,

they might sand it's surface so tat it may bite again.

Edited May 22, 2009 by stsoh

[dpquad]

well, u know there r problems, it's best get it repair.

any bikes will be shitty if no maintenances r maintained.

please follow owner's manual maintenance schedules.

 

no brakes = worn out or staled/harden brake pads (consumeable parts).

new brake pads need sometime for it to embed b4 it will bites.

 

constantly slip first/second gears = shifting gear dog is worn,

using good engine oil (consumeable parts) may help in less frequent of slips.

i did experienced constant slips when using cheap $10 semi-syn eo,

no more slips when i change eo using rp max-cycle 20w-50.

 

try use good engine oil like motul 300v, maxim, fuchs (silkolene), RP max-cycle, amsoil,....,etc.

all these r full synthetic n all either ester (group V) or PAO (group IV).

u may find some cheap label full syn but these r hydro-crack (semi-syn class A, group III) type.

it means a filteration method using dino based oil same as semi-syn.

 

it's better tat u return back to cka n ask for warranty.

if they r generous will give u free of charge.

consumeable parts r not cover under warranty.

u might want to buy eo n let them change for u.

brake pad they might charge for it.

 

Thanks stsoh! However, there are totally no connection to the rear brakes (its like free-play when u step on the pedal). Hope its the connector or cable tats loose...

 

As for slipped 1st gear, i will do a thorough servicing once the braking problem is solved.

 

Stsoh, where do you go for your servicing and repairs? Or r u going to your workshop next Saturday? Probably can meet u there n learn more from u abt this bike...

[stsoh]

your brake is oil actuated, can't be no feels.

it's either jammed, air-locked or run out of brake fluid.

better get it service at cka under warranty.

 

maintenance mostly DIY (Do-It-Yourself).

i change eo myself, disposed eo at cka sometime at any bike shop (pay $2).

shop around for good deals, no fix bike shop.

still visit cka hq for maintenances built up agent/owner relationship.

there no need to meet an old man like me.

coz it's worse than meet your old man, rite?

if u r lucky, u might meet me at cka hq.

 

maybe u can organise meet with all newbies like phantomintheair n tmcrider.

i frequently visit sbf, u can post Qs here.

i try my best to answer any Qs.

Edited May 22, 2009 by stsoh

[dpquad]

your brake is oil actuated, can't be no feels.

it's either jammed, air-locked or run out of brake fluid.

better get it service at cka under warranty.

 

maintenance mostly DIY (Do-It-Yourself).

i change eo myself, disposed eo at cka sometime at any bike shop (pay $2).

shop around for good deals, no fix bike shop.

still visit cka hq for maintenances built up agent/owner relationship.

there no need to meet an old man like me.

coz it's worse than meet your old man, rite?

if u r lucky, u might meet me at cka hq.

 

maybe u can organise meet with all newbies like phantomintheair n tmcrider.

i frequently visit sbf, u can post Qs here.

i try my best to answer any Qs.

 

Probably u r right abt the brakes, will get it checked w them. DIY is one option but there some other problems w the bike tat i hope if get it repaired by CKA, will not be too ex...

 

Haha! Im not young either la... Hope to see u around...

[lazykatak]

So quiet today, Juz rode back my newly attain RW from CKA, its a wonderful bike dat comes wif stare from other riders haha

 

Initially the riding posture is very very awkward to me but after sometime I sort of gettin used to it. Yes, it is slower than my old ride but hey the only thing in my mind is I DON'T MIND. I was expecting this but I just love it to every bits.

 

my is actually the same like yours, but in yellow..

 

but i ask them to change it to stock black...

hehehe

 

i seen this bike at toh guan.. i think buang right side... i hope its not u...

[stsoh]

yours is yellow with checker italian style cafe racer??

why change? can be.....another hottest rw?

Edited May 22, 2009 by stsoh

[dpquad]

my is actually the same like yours, but in yellow..

 

but i ask them to change it to stock black...

hehehe

 

i seen this bike at toh guan.. i think buang right side... i hope its not u...

 

Toh guan one that u saw could be mine if u saw it before this Wed...

[lazykatak]

yours is yellow with checker italian style cafe racer??

why change? can be.....another hottest rw?

 

haha.. i prefer original colour bah.. hehehe...

but now looks so plain.. so going to detail the rims.. chrome the side...

so have more contrast... ahha

[lazykatak]

Toh guan one that u saw could be mine if u saw it before this Wed...

 

i think i saw it on tueday or wed afternoon... whent there for my 5k servicing...

 

u buang right side ah???

[phantomintheair]

While I'm moving off, sometimes the engine tends to die off, should be the idling speed ? if that is the case wad should i do?

[stsoh]

yes, if your idle speed too low, it will die off.

let your bike warm up takes about 5 min at idle speed 1.5k rpm.

throttle up a bit to 2~2.2k rpm for about 2~3 mins b4 moving off.

 

u just need to tune carb a bit richer by adjusting pilot-screw or jet-needle's eclip position.

if u r not sure how to do it, u can always ask cka mech to help u do it.

 

here my recommendation for stock carb, balance with power n economical FC:

pilot-screw set at 2.5 turns n jet-needle's eclip at 3rd slot.

 

if u want better power, just set jet-needle's eclip at 4th slot.

 

remember this, setting too rich fuel is just a waste of fuel.

it's not necessary give good power performance.

[phantomintheair]

Thanks, but I'm not sure how to do the setting....think will have to get cka mech to do it for me altough I really wan to do it myself...

[dpquad]

i think i saw it on tueday or wed afternoon... whent there for my 5k servicing...

 

u buang right side ah???

 

No la, i went to pick up my bike after buying it... Was there around 6.30pm, so didnt get to see u..

[lazykatak]

how much u bought it?

[tmcrider]

I was following the service manual to dismantle my muffler. Wanted to see if I could DIY an aftermarket muffler myself.

When I noticed that my whole exhaust pipe looksed a bit funny.

In the end I dismantled the whole thing, and noticed several "welded spots" along the whole pipe. And what looks like "bad welding" and perhaps even a crack at where the gasket meets the muffler.

The muffler itself looks ok. Even got DAELIM engraving an all.

I don't have any other RW to check with, so I need some brudders' help to see if this is normal. I don't think so.

I think maybe kena buang before, and its a "patchwork" exhaust.

Here's some pics.

Hope anyone can comment and help out. TQ

[stsoh]

yes, confirm crack line.

remove the muffler from the header, 4 allen bolts.

check inner sleeve of the header for further cracks.

 

u can send it to any welding shop n ask them to patch for u.

most weld shop charge $10 per job.

 

it's common due to heat n vibration, did my header too then change to SS header.

my previous superbike had cracks too, weld until cannot weld anymore.

buy a new oem set of header cost $1,000, aftermarket SS header cost $1,500.

rw SS header cost $180.

 

btw, i installed two header gaskets to try reduce vibration from engine.

header gasket is copper seal btwn engine n header.

the rest of pics looks norm, mid section might have done repair work.

Edited May 22, 2009 by stsoh

[dpquad]

how much u bought it?

 

2.4k for a FX plate

[phantomintheair]

Yeah Stsoh, after warmin up of the bike (3-5 mins n trottlin 2-2.5 rpm of idlin speed for abt 2 mins or so) it really helps. But every start of the bike must do this or in the mornin when u ride?

[Suppose]

Yeah Stsoh, after warmin up of the bike (3-5 mins n trottlin 2-2.5 rpm of idlin speed for abt 2 mins or so) it really helps. But every start of the bike must do this or in the mornin when u ride?

 

hey, what's that digital thing on ur bike's handlebar?

[raden]

Yeah Stsoh, after warmin up of the bike (3-5 mins n trottlin 2-2.5 rpm of idlin speed for abt 2 mins or so) it really helps. But every start of the bike must do this or in the mornin when u ride?

 

i ever saw this bike at CKA kaki bukit....Is this yr bike bro???

 

[raden]

hey, what's that digital thing on ur bike's handlebar?

 

If u got any friends who wanna buy rw125, pls pm me ok....cos i am selling it at a reasonable price.

[tmcrider]

Uncle Soh, what's "SS" and "Header"?

When I opened up the exhaust, I noticed 2 x "sleeves" which connects the front opening of th eengine to one end of the exhaust. Is that the "Header"?

 

I tried to unscrew the gasket and separate the muffler, but the @$^$ thing is so tight!

I think it may be welded together! How?