[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[sleeper]

Hi guys! Hope somebody can help me wif these. Been spending alot on repairs recently,n hope to stop doing so soon.

 

Recently,my engine die off during warm up,around 2mins afta start engine. This only happens afta i changed e piston. Nv had this prob b4. Then when wanna start again,very difficult. Then when i clutch in n change to gear 1,at first no prob. When at junction,engine will die off even when i clutch in at gear 1.

 

At first,e mech sae coz of e timing. So he do e necessary adjustments. But when i reach home,e same prob occurs. Then e mech sae maybe e magnetic coil faulty. He oso mention maybe my speedometer faulty. I juz change both of these. But do these solve e prob? Thx...

[stsoh]

engine kept die off can be your idling too low.

it should be at 1.5k when hot but your rpm gauge is spoilt.

use your best judgement.

 

difficulty to start engine can be your carb is lean.

tell your mech to set it richer if your carb is stock, eg;

1) jet-needle clip at 4th slot (counting from top of the needle downwards).

2) pilot-screw at 2.5 turns (it means turn till it is bottom then loose it 2.5 turns. do not overtighten when bottoming, may will break the screw tip).

Edited July 13, 2009 by stsoh

[xishuo]

Hi sleeper,

 

After you had all this parts changed, don't move off from the shop immediately. Instead, ride around the neighbourhood, should there be any problem, go straight back to remedy.

 

And since is new piston, try to vary your speed so that the piston ring will seat nicely inside the chamber.

 

for your roadwin to recover asap...

[sleeper]

Thx uncle soh n xishuo! I realli hope dat my bike will heal. Tml i will tell e mech to do e following changes. Thx again! U guys hav been a great help...

[stsoh]

here's a general guide on pilot(air)-screw setting:

most factory default r set at 1.5 turns (nominal).

rw factory setting is at 2 1/8 or 2.125 turns.

pilot(air)-screw range is 1~2.5 turns,

if turn(s) is less or more than the range, replace slow-jet with next available size.

 

for example;

if less than one turn, replace with a smaller size slow-jet.

if more than 2.5 turns, replace with a bigger size slow-jet.

 

after replacing with a different size slow-jet, set pilot-screw at nominal 1.5 turns.

then reduce or increase pilot-screw by 1/4 (0.25) turn to search for it's optimum performance.

 

in my case,

i have replaced stock slow-jet (#38) with a bigger size slow-jet (#40).

my current pilot-screw is set at 1 1/4 (1.25) turns which i find it perform best.

also replaced stock main-jet (#100) with a bigger size main-jet (#102).

have tried other main-jet sizes like #98, #105, #108.

performance aren't good due either too lean or richness.

#102 gives the best performance.

if u r wondering where to buy slow n main-jet, the place is FJT@rowell rd.

 

other things to consider r sprockets ratio n rear tyre size.

my current is 15t/44t+X-ring chain with 130/70 rear tyre.

 

everything is DIY, don't trust any mech.....

best mech is yourself, none others r any better.

 

additional note, this tip is from roy tat i learn from him:

applied a two round of layer water pipe sealant tape at the jet-needle eclip's grooves area n eclip over it.

this will prevent wear at the groove neck where the eclip is slotted.

Edited July 15, 2009 by stsoh

[nudgedoink]

anyone knows what the cam chain tensioner looks like and where its located on rwr?

Edited February 22, 2010 by nudgedoink

[xishuo]

anyone knows what the cam chain tensioner looks like and where its located on rwr? the stupid vibrating sound is back. last time i just took out fairing and moved some wires around and the vibration was gone.. seemed that the wires were touching the radiator causing the rattling sound. but now i tried that and it doesnt work anymore. did some research and some people with similar problems mentioned that it could be the cam chain tensioner loose/spoilt. dont know what that looks like tho!

 

 

Hi nudge,

 

Sorry I'd never ridden a RwR and so I've no idea about the location of the cam shaft tensioner. But you may check out this site below to have a look.

(Sorry if i made any mistakes. Just trying to help)

 

http://www.kz1300.com/techarticles/z1300-cam-chain-tensioner.html

 

Cheers

[stsoh]

anyone knows what the cam chain tensioner looks like and where its located on rwr? the stupid vibrating sound is back. last time i just took out fairing and moved some wires around and the vibration was gone.. seemed that the wires were touching the radiator causing the rattling sound. but now i tried that and it doesnt work anymore. did some research and some people with similar problems mentioned that it could be the cam chain tensioner loose/spoilt. dont know what that looks like tho!

cam chain tensioner located at midway of engine, a protruding device.

cam chain tensioner is spring loaded, might as well let roy troubleshoot.

rattling can be from old sprocket with new chain.

i have rattling sound coming from use old sprocket with new x-ring chain btwn 5~5.3k rpm, once passed it no more rattlings.

another case can be header inner sleeve cracked, rattling sound due to gas impulsing at high rpm rushing out causing rattling sound.

[nudgedoink]

hm, thanks guys for all the input.

Edited February 22, 2010 by nudgedoink

[raden]

Hi nudge,

 

Sorry I'd never ridden a RwR and so I've no idea about the location of the cam shaft tensioner. But you may check out this site below to have a look.

(Sorry if i made any mistakes. Just trying to help)

 

http://www.kz1300.com/techarticles/z1300-cam-chain-tensioner.html

 

Cheers

 

Most ppl don't like phantom because

1. design concept

2. too low

3. length too long

 

that's all i know....feedback from friends,relative and me myself.

[Robirdz]

Hi guys, recently i have pump in Shell V-Power Racing (full tank) i can feel even more power in my bike. Im surprised with the pick up and the top speed. Thou the price is RM2.10 per liter. Since our bike is so fuel efficient. Its worth the pump. How about u guys in singapore? Any fuel of recommendation?

[lazykatak]

i pumped malasia vpower b4.. power wise not much diff..

but milage, 500+ to reserve...

but i try 1 time only... so cannot say much ah....

singapore vpower haven try...

now im using esso 5000 only in singapore.... getting abt 400+ to reserve...

[Suppose]

i've tried pumping v-power too but..really don't know and can't feel the difference

[xishuo]

i've tried pumping v-power too but..really don't know and can't feel the difference

 

esso's petrol are more liquid-like. Seems like it burns better. Usually gives me less mileage and more power.

 

v-power feels more slicky. Seems to burn harder. Need to throttle more for the same feel of power. Usually gives me more mileage but less power. (You feel like the engine has another drag force acting on it).

 

[L0sT]

Hi ALL.... I have jus join the roadwin club ~... l0lx.. collecting bike at CKA HQ later on... hope to meet up with u guys for coffee soon ~... Cheers !

[jtjtjtck]

Hi guys. I just bought over a 2nd hand roadwin X5. Been riding for 2 weeks. Can someone tell me what are the 2 tubes leading from the block to cooling coil are:)?

[stsoh]

those r oil tubes to cooler, it's for cooling engine oil (eo) when engine is running.

eo is pump up to cooler as u ride cold air rush thru coolers' fin to cool down eo n flow back to engine.

Edited July 25, 2009 by stsoh

[Suppose]

i wonder how the Roadwin X5 looks like..does it look different than the normal one? has anyone got a picture?

[xishuo]

Hi ALL.... I have jus join the roadwin club ~... l0lx.. collecting bike at CKA HQ later on... hope to meet up with u guys for coffee soon ~... Cheers !

 

Gratz bro... =) love your bike and your bike will love you. Not sure if your bike will have new tyre set. If it's new, don't over-rev, very easy to skid. So just relax for about 200 to 500km on your ride and then vroom vroom off!!

 

[stsoh]

i wonder how the Roadwin X5 looks like..does it look different than the normal one? has anyone got a picture?

 

outlook is same as first generation.

 

differences:

1) engine capacity 140.2cc (advertised as 150cc).

2) second generation frame, painted black.

3) headlight bracket additional hole for oem windshield mount.

4) EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculating) device removed.

[L0sT]

Gratz bro... =) love your bike and your bike will love you. Not sure if your bike will have new tyre set. If it's new, don't over-rev, very easy to skid. So just relax for about 200 to 500km on your ride and then vroom vroom off!!

 

 

l0lx... almost skid today in the rain... but no choice.. heart pain sia .. so fast nd to ride in the rain.. jus went CKA hq to get my box installed... hahah... will find a day meet u up for kopi ya... haha

[xishuo]

l0lx... almost skid today in the rain... but no choice.. heart pain sia .. so fast nd to ride in the rain.. jus went CKA hq to get my box installed... hahah... will find a day meet u up for kopi ya... haha

 

ride safe bro, like i said, you need to burn those surface rubber off to give better grip for the tyre.

 

Anyway =) Im free after 25th Aug. (Going back to reservist this friday)

I'll contact you for a kopi session k?

Probably will ask other roadwinners out also. Hardly had a chance to look at any nice roadwinners. ^_^

[L0sT]

BTW, my roadwin is having this squeaking sound as i ride... you noe wat is the problem tat cause this?.. i ask the mech at CKA hq... he sae brake pad new, tat y like that.... but the sound doesn't sounds like it came frm the brake leh... how ah??

[xishuo]

squeaky sound from which part? if it's the rear brake area, maybe the clip is dirty and got stuck. If not i think you may ask CKA people to loosen up the grip of the brake on the brake disc a little.

[stsoh]

BTW, my roadwin is having this squeaking sound as i ride... you noe wat is the problem tat cause this?.. i ask the mech at CKA hq... he sae brake pad new, tat y like that.... but the sound doesn't sounds like it came frm the brake leh... how ah??

do a few hard braking......but make sure there r no vehicles behind b4 trying it.