[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[stsoh]

hi bros. questions here. wat is the FC of this bike ? is the spare cheap and easily be found in singapore and malaysia ? thanks alot.

always running about 100~110 kph on the meter along ecp/pie.

my fc avg about 27 km/l, carb setting on the rich side.

always ride for leisure, fun to ride.

rw is on the high-end of 2b class.

if u want to save fuel dun run above 60kph, it will be the same as any 2b class.

 

daelim parts can only obtain from cka - daelim agent in sillypore.

cka has a shop in malayais, i think near batu cave (check their web site).

unique parts pertained to rw like engine parts, frame, rims, handlebar, etc.

even u approach other shop they also have to get engine parts from them.

 

consumables like tires, light bulbs, brake pads, spark plug, battery, sprockets, chain, accessories items can be purchase from any bike shops.

Edited June 27, 2010 by stsoh

[SevenZ]

my fc avg about 27 km/l, carb setting on the rich side.

.

 

want to ask, other than carb settings, what did u change?

10km/l is alot lost. But is it alot more powerful ? like 3-5hp more ?

[stsoh]

my current rw configuration is done over the years thru trials n errors by myself, not cka.

now it is totally to suit me riding very well.

 

my carb settings:

slow-jet#40 (stock #38),

main-jet#102 (stock #100),

jet-needle clip @ slot #3,

pilot(air)-screw @ 1.25 (1 1/4) turn.

 

sprocket ratio is 15t/44t with rk x-ring chain.

 

air-filter is DIY high-flow KnN air-filter.

 

exhaust header is stainless steel 1 1/8" ID with restrictors (3/4" hole steel washers) welded at both ends.

(cka sell the stainless header, didn't even knows tat rw will loss power at low rpm or any engine with bigger pipes will loss power at low rpm. after much research, came to a conclusion tat 3/4" header is much more suitable than 1 1/8". bigger isn't better.)

 

muffler's db silencer removed.

 

battlelax bt-045 front 110/70 n rear 140/70 tires.

 

engine modded to X5, 140cc.

horsepower wasn't any different from 125cc after modded to 140cc if carb wasn't setup properly.

tat's why i retuned the carb by myself, not by cka n now it is far better than b4.

i do runs at 120 kph on level expressways n 110 kph upslopes PIE eunos2bedok n ECP2TPE.

in layman term, i can overtake those slowpokes riding up a slope or up a hill with power-like.

 

lastly, dun forget the engine oil: Royal Purple Max-Cycle 20w-50.

 

not after spend all the money n time, i've a superbike, NO, it's superb.

dun forget, it is still a 12 horsepower 140cc bike.

it is fun to ride, enjoy the riding every time on the road.

in other words, i can't afford to own n maintain a litre bike, this is the best alternative.

Edited June 27, 2010 by stsoh

[stsoh]

......

10km/l is alot lost.....

 

i think i missed out some pointers about run ur bike lean.

there r more disadvantages saving a few cents of fuel than wasting.

 

here's why u shouldn't run ur bike lean:

1) it will cause engine to overheat.

2) overheat will cook ur engine oil (eo).

3) cooked eo will breakdown n loss it's properties thus more frequent eo change.

4) cooked eo will cause more engine parts to wear out prematurely.

5) overheat will fuse spark plug.

6) overheat will cause premature parts failure.

7) plastic n rubber seals will be harden n brittle, seize to function/broken due to overheat.

8) engine will stop running due to overheat.

9) hard to start, under power can't overtake others, not running at it's optimum.

etc.........

Edited June 27, 2010 by stsoh

[SevenZ]

icic.. i never tune my carb before.

no idea how to as well.

will wait till i get my 2a bike before i start learning on the roadwin

 

Thanks uncle soh!

[stsoh]

went to mustafa early this morning ard 1.00am.

saw this colorful rw fba7xx4m at the same parking lot.

just wonder where is the owner?? shopping??

[stsoh]

icic.. i never tune my carb before.

no idea how to as well.

will wait till i get my 2a bike before i start learning on the roadwin

 

Thanks uncle soh!

single piston engine with single carb is the most simplest to tune.

inline-4, v-4 or v-twin engines r more complex, even i dun want to fool around without carbtune (vacuum gauges).

coz even if every parts setting r perfect, carbs wun synchronize due to differential of each pistons' compression n suction.

even EFI have to be synchronize for perfect harmony then u can sense the sweetness of power coming from the engine.

[lazykatak]

can i know what is the capacity of our fuel tank??

16L?

just now i risk going jb with empty fueltank, was on reserve from noon, when in at 11am..

i pump in abt 17.2L....

[SevenZ]

can i know what is the capacity of our fuel tank??

16L?

just now i risk going jb with empty fueltank, was on reserve from noon, when in at 11am..

i pump in abt 17.2L....

 

woah ? how to pump 17l to a 16l tank?! shell eat our money ah!

[stsoh]

can i know what is the capacity of our fuel tank??

16L?

just now i risk going jb with empty fueltank, was on reserve from noon, when in at 11am..

i pump in abt 17.2L....

jb pump meter is not accurate, meter over run by a litre.

u have been cheated by a litre.

 

i used to always run till reserve n pump at jb.

it's always 15++liters, never exceed 16 liters.

 

pls be aware tat jb petrol do have a small amount of water.

i had to drain petrol 4~5 times every year when i only pump at jb.

stop going to jb becoz my passport expired n did not renew.

 

if u constantly pump at jb one day u will experience after pump petrol at jb.

ur bike can start easily but die when try to move off.

every time engaged gear the bike cannot move n engine die off easily on engaging gear.

u have experienced water in the carb.

 

to remove water from carb is simple, this is wat i do:

1) put ur bike on main stand.

 

2) close the fuel valve.

 

3) if u haven't loosen the carb drain screw b4, u need a big screw driver with big handle to loosen it.

it is very tight, after loosening it then use the kit screw driver to tighten then next time it will be easy to loosen the carb drain screw.

 

4) loosen the carb drain screw n let the carb bowl fuel to be drained.

 

5) turn the fuel valve to reserve n let it drain a bit more, eg 0.25L.

since water is heavy, it is always at reserve portion of the tank.

tat's why u need to turn fuel valve to reserve to drain the excess water accumulate in the tank.

 

6) close the fuel valve n tighten the carb drain screw (hand tight is enough, dun over tighten. it will be difficult to loosen next time.)

 

7) turn fuel valve to normal open, done.

 

ur bike will run normal till next water accumulation.

Edited June 30, 2010 by stsoh

[lazykatak]

yup2... experience the water in carb or contaminated fuel b4... i think i clear the contaminant as i got stuck a few times riding ard b4 going jb... yup i suspect that the pump there cheat 1 liter from me, will try check other place and see if it is the same...

[Sliqueboy]

hey, do any of you change your sideview mirror? just a random question.

[stsoh]

so far i change two sets, one short n one long stem.

both r lousy coz of it's rotating joints r not stable.

mirror always droop down n vibs a lot, very poor view.

now using honda wave cub mirrors, better than oem mirrors.

very cheap n very good with better rear view too.

brought at LAB, S$8 per pair.

Edited July 3, 2010 by stsoh

[SevenZ]

hey, do any of you change your sideview mirror? just a random question.

 

yes. using koso noww..

VIBRATES WORST THAN A VIBRATOR.!

[Sliqueboy]

yes. using koso noww..

VIBRATES WORST THAN A VIBRATOR.!

 

that bad? was intending of getting one set for mine. not sure how good it is.

[stsoh]

have tried few other mirror sets, so far honda wave mirrors r the best.

minimum vib, great rear view n cheap.

looks great on rw too.

[SevenZ]

that bad? was intending of getting one set for mine. not sure how good it is.

 

yes.. unless its below 5k rpm.

above 5krpm. u just see circles from the lights

[NoFishesAllowed]

im sorry... im a new member and i cant see most of the post by soh cos it was labeled as deleted.. can someone summarize wad is required to make the bike go smoother at top end speed and hopefully faster pick up too?

[stsoh]

haaa, i deleted those b4 2009....too much free time.

too much info leads to mislead-information.

dun need to read past info since latest r more up-to-date.

 

here r my recommendations for stock rw:

1) use 15t front sprocket -

why u may ask....it will help dampen the vibration of the engine n increase top speed by 5%.

tat means stock 14t front sprocket, it's top speed is 110kph.

with 15t sprocket will up the top speed to 115~120kph@10,000rpm.

also it's cheaper to change front sprocket than the rear sprocket n u can change it at any bike shop.

 

2) stock carburetor settings:

a) jet-needle clip - stock is at 2nd slot.

for medium power, to have power n save fuel change clip position to 3rd slot.

for power, set clip to 4th slot.

 

b) pilot(air)-screw - stock is set at 2 1/8 turns.

wat it means is tighten the pilot(air)-screw all the way inwards when it touches bottom then turns out 2 1/8 turns.

do not over-tighten pilot(air)-screw or u will break the screw tip.

 

pilot(air)-screw setting responds to jet-needle clip positions.

for stock, pilot(air)-screw is set at 2 1/8 turns with jet-needle clip at 2nd slot.

for medium, pilot(air)-screw is set at 2 1/2 turns with jet-needle clip at 3rd slot.

for power, pilot(air)-screw is set at 2 1/4 turns with jet-needle clip at 4th slot.

 

3) acceleration cam cable adjustment

u can locate this cam on the right side of the carburetor.

when u turn the throttle, u can see the cam moves up n down.

it actuate a pump n spray more fuel into the engine.

throttle cable branches from single into two cables -

one goes to the throttle valve in the carb, this is non-adjustable.

the other is the cam accelerator which is adjustable.

so set this near the max, when at full throttle, the cam will move up.

use ur finger n lift up the cam, it should move tiny bit eg. 0.5mm.

tat mean the throttle valve have reach the top first instead of the cam.

 

tat's all need to do for better rides on a stock rw.

if u dun understand any of wat i have wrote above, print this out n let cka mech do it for u.

Edited July 8, 2010 by stsoh

[SevenZ]

haaa, i deleted those b4 2009....too much free time.

too much info leads to mislead-information.

dun need to read past info since latest r more up-to-date.

 

here r my recommendations for stock rw:

1) use 15t front sprocket -

why u may ask....it will help dampen the vibration of the engine n increase top speed by 5%.

tat means stock 14t front sprocket, it's top speed is 110kph.

with 15t sprocket will up the top speed to 115~120kph@10,000rpm.

also it's cheaper to change front sprocket than the rear sprocket n u can change it at any bike shop.

 

2) stock carburetor settings:

a) jet-needle clip - stock is at 2nd slot.

for medium power, to have power n save fuel change clip position to 3rd slot.

for power, set clip to 4th slot.

 

b) pilot(air)-screw - stock is set at 2 1/8 turns.

wat it means is tighten the pilot(air)-screw all the way inwards when it touches bottom then turns out 2 1/8 turns.

do not over-tighten pilot(air)-screw or u will break the screw tip.

 

pilot(air)-screw setting responds to jet-needle clip positions.

for stock, pilot(air)-screw is set at 2 1/8 turns with jet-needle clip at 2nd slot.

for medium, pilot(air)-screw is set at 2 1/2 turns with jet-needle clip at 3rd slot.

for power, pilot(air)-screw is set at 2 1/4 turns with jet-needle clip at 4th slot.

 

3) acceleration cam cable adjustment

u can locate this cam on the right side of the carburetor.

when u turn the throttle, u can see the cam moves up n down.

it actuate a pump n spray more fuel into the engine.

throttle cable branches from single into two cables -

one goes to the throttle valve in the carb, this is non-adjustable.

the other is the cam accelerator which is adjustable.

so set this near the max, when at full throttle, the cam will move up.

use ur finger n lift up the cam, it should move tiny bit eg. 0.5mm.

tat mean the throttle valve have reach the top first instead of the cam.

 

tat's all need to do for better rides on a stock rw.

if u dun understand any of wat i have wrote above, print this out n let cka mech do it for u.

 

it would be good if u have pictures to help people like me! who know nuts about carb settings !

i always wanted to try! but when i go to my bike . look at the carb. i just blur. no idea what's what and dun wan to screw things up!. and im really reluctant to go cka and pay them to do for me :/

[stsoh]

my recommendations r very basic stuff.

anyone with basic mechanical skill can do it.

go to any of ur favorite mech or bike shop willing to do.

first pay, watch n learn then do it yourself.

[NoFishesAllowed]

thank you so much for ur reply. will try that out soon:)

[NoFishesAllowed]

in the case where i want to undo the cam accelerator setting that u told me.. how do i go about doing it? will this adjustments eat up more fuel

[stsoh]

if u look at the bracket tat hold the cable, it's just a screw n lock nut.

loosen the lock nut n turn the screw up or down then lock the nut.

imo, max tat i recommended spray the max amount of fuel.

if u want less than make more slack but u will felt less pickup.

[NoFishesAllowed]

b) pilot(air)-screw - stock is set at 2 1/8 turns.

wat it means is tighten the pilot(air)-screw all the way inwards when it touches bottom then turns out 2 1/8 turns.

do not over-tighten pilot(air)-screw or u will break the screw tip.

 

pilot(air)-screw setting responds to jet-needle clip positions.

for stock, pilot(air)-screw is set at 2 1/8 turns with jet-needle clip at 2nd slot.

for medium, pilot(air)-screw is set at 2 1/2 turns with jet-needle clip at 3rd slot.

for power, pilot(air)-screw is set at 2 1/4 turns with jet-needle clip at 4th slot.

 

 

 

 

am i right to say this is playing wid the idling speed?