Warming up of Engine

[dexter]

thanx bro for all the information given....realli appreciate it...ermmm:cheer: :cheer:

 

ermmm

i heard there is problem when like piston sieze when u did not warm up our bike cos the piston is not enough lubricated by the engine oil.....so warm up our bike first liao

[Speedpass]

Originally posted by four@Feb 6 2004, 09:33 PM

huh?? squeeze clutch to let let flow?????? :confused: sure anot?? nvr heard this b4.. i also let the bike run til exhaust hot then move off.. 6 yrs ++ liao. nothing major happen also..

tats wat the mech at bike shop told me

[hachi]

Next time u go there ask him why ok? THe oil will flow if the engine is running. Quite weird leh.

[seven7sin]

but if u ever tried during warm up..u put to neutral tat time..u try squeeze yr clutch..and let off..hear the sound...it is different..wat is the reason behind..

[Speedpass]

Originally posted by seven7sin@Feb 7 2004, 01:33 PM

but if u ever tried during warm up..u put to neutral tat time..u try squeeze yr clutch..and let off..hear the sound...it is different..wat is the reason behind..

i think its becos of tat sound coming from the engine , tats y i ask the mech y tis happens . he ask me to try squeeze the clutch during warm up . n the rattling sound disappeared .

[seven7sin]

Originally posted by Speedpass@Feb 7 2004, 01:45 PM

i think its becos of tat sound coming from the engine , tats y i ask the mech y tis happens . he ask me to try squeeze the clutch during warm up . n the rattling sound disappeared .

agreed...

[hachi]

My S$ also like that what is wrong izzit the clutch housing?

[redtail]

i don't think there's anything wrong with that sound.

If you clutch in and the sound disappears..

 

most probably the sound is just the vibration of the engine and nothing much.

[four]

Originally posted by Speedpass@Feb 7 2004, 01:45 PM

i think its becos of tat sound coming from the engine , tats y i ask the mech y tis happens . he ask me to try squeeze the clutch during warm up . n the rattling sound disappeared .

i guess most prob the sound comes from some vibration lar... clutch is to engage n disengage the clutch plate. u engage mean the gears( neutral or watever) is engaged to the engine, thus vibration, n sound.

 

when u disengage, no engine power is transmitted to the gears or wat so ever.., thus different sound.

 

if u guys notice, if u park ur bike main stand, neutral gear, the wheel will still spin.. mine got main stand, so can observe..

 

i'm not sure if my theory is right. feel free to correct me.. its jus my guess..

 

but i'm dead sure, the clutch cannot pump oil or anything lor.. maybe the mechanic toking abt hydraulic clutch? then got oil lor..

[dexter]

hheheheh..alooo guys...

the sound that come from ur bikes is actually the clutch housing sound......nothing to do with the engine bro.....correct me if i am wrong:giddy:

[salem77]

well usually a stick away iz enough fer warming up bro....but if ure a non-smoker, 2mins shld b enough fer the engine oil 2 go up circulating......

[sfowner]

Last time I never warm up before I ride. Now I give it about 3-4 minutes, and I can really feel the difference - smoother, better pick-up. I think the few minutes is worth it.

[Vtec1605198534]

I use my hand to feel my exhaust fume... wait till it's warm then i move off

[bomisman]

Is it really necessary to warm up the bike everytime you wanna ride? If yes, how long is required?

Thanks

[MiCmAsTa]

Bikes are just like us humans....

 

Why we need to do Streching b4 runs? We don't wish to have Cramps/injuries right? Same to bikes...

 

I usually warm up my bike for at least 3mins (Up to individuals) b4 I ride it.

[retro1983]

warm-up abt 5 - 10 mins and mpve it off slowing without stressing the engine...

[Guest enHANZed]

i remember its something like ...the engine oil will flow down to theoil sump when parked and there will be less oil in the piston/gear areas ...so a proper warm up ensures even oil flow ard the parts

[S4Sixty]

Originally posted by bomisman@Dec 7 2004, 05:40 AM

Is it really necessary to warm up the bike everytime you wanna ride? If yes, how long is required?

Thanks

Advisable not to leave bike running in neutral gear for long.

Just start the bike and move off slowly out from ur carpark.

 

try to keep rev very low for first few mins and after that gradually increase and maybe after 5 mins or more normal riding speed.

 

Cheers !

[BOTAKQ]

Originally posted by S4Sixty@Dec 7 2004, 04:13 PM

Advisable not to leave bike running in neutral gear for long.

Just start the bike and move off slowly out from ur carpark.

 

try to keep rev very low for first few mins and after that gradually increase and maybe after 5 mins or more normal riding speed.

 

Cheers !

I everytime will let the engine ide for the first 30sec , then rev. it @ 1.5k RPM for another 20sec. before i move off slowly and maintain at low rev. not more then 3kRPM for the first 10min ride ...

May i koe y it is advisable not to leave bike running in neutral gear for long.

[Guest TheSquid]

For 4 strokes

 

Idling induces high torque loadings at the bottom end which drop dramatically at about 2000rpm. All sorts of clearences are bigger when cold, so a gradually changing rpm will help to keep bits pressed together and not rattling to and fro and therefore wearing. Too many rpm when cold can cause bigger problems than all of these, so I say: "warm up between 2-4000rpm, and keep varying the speed.

 

Standing still or Ride away?

I always ride away, I keep the revs down to 3500 until the temp gague starts to move (which means that the thermostat has started to open), this is because clearences are still big and whereas I want to keep things loaded up I don't want things getting up any momentum at 11000rpm, and valves can find it a bit difficult to close quickly when cold. Never ever let the engine labour (bog down) as each rev is like a hammer-blow through the system, I stay above 2000. Riding along means that you CAN keep a constant rpm, the drivetrain will load the engine up and keep it from rattling

 

ALternatives?

The alternative is to do like they warm the racebikes on telly (which I used to think was showing-off) which is to blip 2-5k until the temp starts to rise, then blip 5-8k until it reaches normal. Do this every morning and you'll never have to go to a neigbor's Booze and Uefa Cup Session:giddy:

 

So i say, Ride away ASAP

 

Warming down

Once you've got warm, had a hoon about, and come home check your temp gauge before you switch off. Hard running while still cold will knacker an engine over a period of weeks, hard running too hot can do it in seconds. If you're on the limit of some component somewhere (ring) it might be ok if it's still moving but sieze if it's allowed to stop, it's just as easy to spot a problem by checking the gauge each time then by scooping bits of piston from your crankcase.

 

If the fan is on when you get home, let it idle (safer to do when warm) until it cuts. I say: "Too much heat is the biggest enemy"

 

Why so.....oh well...think about it, after switching off the engine, the temperature still continue to rise and can results in "boil over" (defination can be found in my waterwetter article).

 

Another very important point, especially so with synthetics oil, is using the proper viscosity grade. It would seem to make perfect sense that a 15W-50 would be *better* for a high revving engine. Unfortunately, not the case. Using a heavier viscosity oil than the engine was designed for robs horsepower, creates MORE heat internally, and may actually decrease lubricant flow through critical bearings. We want to be right on the viscosity required for the engine...

 

so anyone who wanna use my above mentioned warm up method (ride off asap)

 

makes good sense to use 10W50.....hehehehehe

 

for track goons with track tools

 

10W40 will be sweet.

but that means frequent oil change as well

 

By the way, jetting that's too rich, or the use of the choke for too long

during warm-up, can rinse oil off cylinder walls and accelerate piston ring

wear.

[bomisman]

Originally posted by CookieSoL@Dec 8 2004, 12:03 AM

For 4 strokes

 

Idling induces high torque loadings at the bottom end which drop dramatically at about 2000rpm. All sorts of clearences are bigger when cold, so a gradually changing rpm will help to keep bits pressed together and not rattling to and fro and therefore wearing. Too many rpm when cold can cause bigger problems than all of these, so I say: "warm up between 2-4000rpm, and keep varying the speed.

 

Standing still or Ride away?

I always ride away, I keep the revs down to 3500 until the temp gague starts to move (which means that the thermostat has started to open), this is because clearences are still big and whereas I want to keep things loaded up I don't want things getting up any momentum at 11000rpm, and valves can find it a bit difficult to close quickly when cold. Never ever let the engine labour (bog down) as each rev is like a hammer-blow through the system, I stay above 2000. Riding along means that you CAN keep a constant rpm, the drivetrain will load the engine up and keep it from rattling

 

ALternatives?

The alternative is to do like they warm the racebikes on telly (which I used to think was showing-off) which is to blip 2-5k until the temp starts to rise, then blip 5-8k until it reaches normal. Do this every morning and you'll never have to go to a neigbor's Booze and Uefa Cup Session:giddy:

 

So i say, Ride away ASAP

 

Warming down

Once you've got warm, had a hoon about, and come home check your temp gauge before you switch off. Hard running while still cold will knacker an engine over a period of weeks, hard running too hot can do it in seconds. If you're on the limit of some component somewhere (ring) it might be ok if it's still moving but sieze if it's allowed to stop, it's just as easy to spot a problem by checking the gauge each time then by scooping bits of piston from your crankcase.

 

If the fan is on when you get home, let it idle (safer to do when warm) until it cuts. I say: "Too much heat is the biggest enemy"

 

Why so.....oh well...think about it, after switching off the engine, the temperature still continue to rise and can results in "boil over" (defination can be found in my waterwetter article).

 

Another very important point, especially so with synthetics oil, is using the proper viscosity grade. It would seem to make perfect sense that a 15W-50 would be *better* for a high revving engine. Unfortunately, not the case. Using a heavier viscosity oil than the engine was designed for robs horsepower, creates MORE heat internally, and may actually decrease lubricant flow through critical bearings. We want to be right on the viscosity required for the engine...

 

so anyone who wanna use my above mentioned warm up method (ride off asap)

 

makes good sense to use 10W50.....hehehehehe

 

for track goons with track tools

 

10W40 will be sweet.

but that means frequent oil change as well

 

By the way, jetting that's too rich, or the use of the choke for too long

during warm-up, can rinse oil off cylinder walls and accelerate piston ring

wear.

Thats a mouthful. Thanks brah!

[GarY1605198568]

Originally posted by CookieSoL@Dec 8 2004, 12:03 AM

For 4 strokes

 

Idling induces high torque loadings at the bottom end which drop dramatically at about 2000rpm. All sorts of clearences are bigger when cold, so a gradually changing rpm will help to keep bits pressed together and not rattling to and fro and therefore wearing. Too many rpm when cold can cause bigger problems than all of these, so I say: "warm up between 2-4000rpm, and keep varying the speed.

 

Standing still or Ride away?

I always ride away, I keep the revs down to 3500 until the temp gague starts to move (which means that the thermostat has started to open), this is because clearences are still big and whereas I want to keep things loaded up I don't want things getting up any momentum at 11000rpm, and valves can find it a bit difficult to close quickly when cold. Never ever let the engine labour (bog down) as each rev is like a hammer-blow through the system, I stay above 2000. Riding along means that you CAN keep a constant rpm, the drivetrain will load the engine up and keep it from rattling

 

ALternatives?

The alternative is to do like they warm the racebikes on telly (which I used to think was showing-off) which is to blip 2-5k until the temp starts to rise, then blip 5-8k until it reaches normal. Do this every morning and you'll never have to go to a neigbor's Booze and Uefa Cup Session:giddy:

 

So i say, Ride away ASAP

 

Warming down

Once you've got warm, had a hoon about, and come home check your temp gauge before you switch off. Hard running while still cold will knacker an engine over a period of weeks, hard running too hot can do it in seconds. If you're on the limit of some component somewhere (ring) it might be ok if it's still moving but sieze if it's allowed to stop, it's just as easy to spot a problem by checking the gauge each time then by scooping bits of piston from your crankcase.

 

If the fan is on when you get home, let it idle (safer to do when warm) until it cuts. I say: "Too much heat is the biggest enemy"

 

Why so.....oh well...think about it, after switching off the engine, the temperature still continue to rise and can results in "boil over" (defination can be found in my waterwetter article).

 

Another very important point, especially so with synthetics oil, is using the proper viscosity grade. It would seem to make perfect sense that a 15W-50 would be *better* for a high revving engine. Unfortunately, not the case. Using a heavier viscosity oil than the engine was designed for robs horsepower, creates MORE heat internally, and may actually decrease lubricant flow through critical bearings. We want to be right on the viscosity required for the engine...

 

so anyone who wanna use my above mentioned warm up method (ride off asap)

 

makes good sense to use 10W50.....hehehehehe

 

for track goons with track tools

 

10W40 will be sweet.

but that means frequent oil change as well

 

By the way, jetting that's too rich, or the use of the choke for too long

during warm-up, can rinse oil off cylinder walls and accelerate piston ring

wear.

Well Done!~@

[kaginah]

well i just start the bike and smoke one full stick b4 riding off... think might be the traditional method...

[bomisman]

Originally posted by kaginah@Dec 9 2004, 01:17 AM

well i just start the bike and smoke one full stick b4 riding off... think might be the traditional method...

he he for me dont smoke.. think buy 1 can of coke.. should do the trick.. heh:cheeky:

[AmuroBike]

i always warm my bike about 1 to 2 min in the morning.... i oso got ask some mech and my friend, they say if our bike park overnight must warm up about 1-2 min is better cos due of the weather and let the engine oil flow well...

 

so the advise is warm up about few min then move off in morning is better...