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[Archived - 2009] PK Official- Questions for Newbie


zero_degrees

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Metalfyre bro,

since you got knowleadge in carb tuning.. you know to have good FC is to turn in or turn out of the jet screw?

 

air over fuel or fuel over air ratio? thanks

 

Save metalfyre some effort so he can just fill up the loopholes in my answer. U turn the screw one direction, go and ride neighbourhood 1 round. If pop pop sounds louder, means too rich. If pop pop decrease means more lean.

 

Rich = fuel wasted.

 

Whether the screw limits the fuel or the air, i'm still lost.

 

as in, eg: fuel will still flow 1L/hr, just that the amt of air gushing thru increased = more lean. vice versa.

 

my limited knowledge tells me that fuel flow can only increase with new jets/needle/clip position.

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car suddenly overtake u then muz have good brakes to stop in time ma..how does power help?i feel i need more power cos i am heavy thats all..haha

class 2B : 27 November 2007

class 2A : 21 April 2009

class 2 : 21 October 2010

class 3 : 21 August 2007

 

 

"Change is a decision u make and not a thought in your mind"

 

" there can only be transformation when you have change your thoughts"

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car suddenly overtake u then muz have good brakes to stop in time ma..how does power help?i feel i need more power cos i am heavy thats all..haha

 

when u spot a potential kuku, better to be in front of him than to be at the back to kiss his ass. the ass kisser will always be disadvantage.

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so what u mean is if u see car wanna overtake u on the left or right, u jux trottle more to go in front izit?don let him overtake u?

class 2B : 27 November 2007

class 2A : 21 April 2009

class 2 : 21 October 2010

class 3 : 21 August 2007

 

 

"Change is a decision u make and not a thought in your mind"

 

" there can only be transformation when you have change your thoughts"

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the sound was emitted when i pull the clutch. U noe the way the old door hinge sounds like eeeeeeekkkk.... hahah! sumting like tat lah... i hope the cable not gng to snap soon hahah!

would be good to let mechanic do a checking for you, make sure they don't just make you change and pay but STILL not rectifying the problem.Learn from there too.

 

WD40. Spray every surface u can see, every hinge u can reach, exercise your fingers a good 10 mins. :p

 

I dun get it, what's so difficult about turning the steering 1 inch to change lane, and 1 inch to filter back? If u dun 1 to signal, then dun.... dun signal is better than same lane overtake and risk colliding w a bike. impact at 70kmh is no joke. There are many luxury car owners who do a proper overtake w/o signal, i silently thank them for their consideration.

 

once again, I'd like you guys to know what are the effects of wd40 before you use on some surfaces.Else some bugger would just spray on chain,sprocket etc.

 

drivers over time get used to their cars and laze while driving, it'll feel like daytona in the arcade to us, just swerving around with your right feet on gas.Take the initiative to spot pricks before they pierce you.

 

car suddenly overtake u then muz have good brakes to stop in time ma..how does power help?i feel i need more power cos i am heavy thats all..haha

with more power you need to have better brakes, with more power and no improvement in brakes will just make you typical Singaporean bikers who just go fast on straights and start bouncing off cars when you mess with them from the back.

 

when u spot a potential kuku, better to be in front of him than to be at the back to kiss his ass. the ass kisser will always be disadvantage.

either way, we're at disadvantage.Dying on this chunk of metal was never glamourous anyway.No need to be in front of him etc.Just stay away and best if you can see him just in case he pulls a stunt for all.

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so what u mean is if u see car wanna overtake u on the left or right, u jux trottle more to go in front izit?don let him overtake u?

that'll be stupid to do.When someone overtakes you on the right means you're slow already, if someone comes from your left, you're hogging you bugger! Just give way and ride along with your phantom.Don't create problems for other road users.

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excellent, you used my best buddy "search". congrats to the google of SBF! ok la i admit the search is kinda crappy.

 

How to know if your gear is chui, u listen to gear 1, gear 2 (seldom spoil), gear 3......... sound roughly the same.... then when u reach the problem gear, wah lau like got stones in the gearbox! that's called chui. :cool:

 

Haha.. well ur prob on 2nd hand bike was a learning exps too n i must admit that e searching part can b alittle test of patient...

 

On my "chui" part. Apparently i seem to b missing out kicks at gears"3/4". Somehow, onli manage to get all 6 when i real gentle in kicking from gear 3 to 4 n was wearing improper gear like sandals then.. :dozed: . On e expressway, every time i tot i was onli in gear 5 going to 6.. it already in 6. Thats why i wonder if i'm in e rite gear or as it "chui" esp when e engine is roaring at 90-100km/hr. Guess i'm a little paranoid n lack of practise for this instance.. Nevertheless, Will get Dr. Chong confirm again..

 

Say, did a little test on my start probs in e morning by trying to making 2 separate start at an interval of 1hr.. 1st start was accompany with a 3-5mins of warming up. But~ Seem like pulling of choke still require.:cry:

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Save metalfyre some effort so he can just fill up the loopholes in my answer. U turn the screw one direction, go and ride neighbourhood 1 round. If pop pop sounds louder, means too rich. If pop pop decrease means more lean.

 

Rich = fuel wasted.

 

Whether the screw limits the fuel or the air, i'm still lost.

 

as in, eg: fuel will still flow 1L/hr, just that the amt of air gushing thru increased = more lean. vice versa.

 

my limited knowledge tells me that fuel flow can only increase with new jets/needle/clip position.

 

Close the air screw all the way. Turn one round open and rev. You should hear a very 'bloated' sound. Turn another round open and rev. The sound should be sharper this time. The objective is to attain the sharpest sound possible, by turning 1/2 to 1 round, rev rev a bit....and adjust if necessary.

 

Anyway a clogged air filter will make your bike feel sluggish, and at worst, make your bike jerk till you feel you're riding a bronco. As far as I know, won't cause backfires or adverse FC to the point where you start taking note of it.

 

Thanks for the help btw :thumb:

 

car suddenly overtake u then muz have good brakes to stop in time ma..how does power help?i feel i need more power cos i am heavy thats all..haha

 

First off, more powerful bikes typically have better brakes. All modern bikes have brakes that are capable of stopping a bike faster than the bike itself can accelerate. Taking into account that the later models of litre bikes are capable of a 0-100 timing of 3-4 seconds, that means the brakes are really very effective at stopping your vehicle safely.

 

Power helps in the sense that you get to overtake potentially hazardous clusters of traffic. Once you break through, the road in front is clear, and you needn't worry about someone pulling in front of you or lane changing into your position; they're all behind you and cannot harm you. It also helps to assert your right of way, for instance I'm sure you've encountered many instances where you signal for 1 or 2 minutes to lane change to the right, but all the cars simply don't give a damn and you're stuck in that lane. Power means you can slip into space even if it's present only for a short period of time.

 

This is only my POV. There are riders who believe in defensive riding, give way all the time etc, and there are riders like me who believe in assertive (not aggressive) riding. For instance, I like to squeeze my way quickly through traffic until I get to a clear spot where the cars ahead are driving quite a distance in front of me, and some road hogger is holding the traffic behind up so the gap exists. While more defensively minded riders may say that squeezing at that speed is courting death, I prefer to think in the sense that I am minimising the time spent in the danger zone (being surrounded by cars). For instance, if I squeeze past a car pronto, I am only in between the car for maybe half a second...which translates to being in a dangerous position for half a second. After which, the car is behind me and poses no danger to me whatsoever.

 

But if you choose to guai guai stay behind the car BBDC/SSDC/CDC style, you are behind him for perhaps the entire journey, lets say 10 minutes. While the risk of something happening may be less, you are putting yourself in the dangerous position for 10 minutes, and this means 10 minutes where there is the possibility of the car in front jamming brakes or doing something equally funky. This also means that you have to concentrate on the car ahead in order to remain prepared if something funky happens. That's 10 minutes of concentration on one object, and less cognitive processing space for other important stuff like the surrounding traffic conditions etc. Whereas by passing the car quickly, I only need to concentrate for that split moment and be ready to react. Once I'm past, I can relax, concentrate on other important stuff and maintain a generally higher level of awareness while riding.

 

It's all about managing your risk while riding. If you think you prefer to spread it out as taught in the driving center, go ahead. If you think you wanna squeeze all that risk into one short burst, do so with confidence. At the end of the day, it's all up to the rider's choice. But without power, you can only sit back and hope the fellow in front of you is friendly.

 

Haha.. well ur prob on 2nd hand bike was a learning exps too n i must admit that e searching part can b alittle test of patient...

 

On my "chui" part. Apparently i seem to b missing out kicks at gears"3/4". Somehow, onli manage to get all 6 when i real gentle in kicking from gear 3 to 4 n was wearing improper gear like sandals then.. :dozed: . On e expressway, every time i tot i was onli in gear 5 going to 6.. it already in 6. Thats why i wonder if i'm in e rite gear or as it "chui" esp when e engine is roaring at 90-100km/hr. Guess i'm a little paranoid n lack of practise for this instance.. Nevertheless, Will get Dr. Chong confirm again..

 

Say, did a little test on my start probs in e morning by trying to making 2 separate start at an interval of 1hr.. 1st start was accompany with a 3-5mins of warming up. But~ Seem like pulling of choke still require.:cry:

 

 

I don't know what you're talking about :giddy: What miss kicks? What chui part?!? 90-100 roaring? Huh? 2 seperate starts, one with warm up? What's the result with warming up and without? Pulling of choke nothing to do with gearbox...more like your idling is set too low or your tuning is out.

 

Tolong la brother...i shag liao...cannot read ur code words. Pls do explain more clearly so that we can help you. You say things 1/2 1/2 I catch no balla.

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i agree. Running in at 70kmh, almost killed me when the bloody MPV / Taxi think they damn skinny want to same lane overtake just because i slightly left skewed on CTE. I dun get it, why do they love the left lane when there are bloody 4 to use. Tailgate, highbeam.......... my P Plate and reflective stickers so prominent somemore, NCD too high already ah??? Lane 1 is moving like 130kmh at least coz they zoom past like rushing to reincarnate.

 

i know its off topic, but just want to share w the rest, take a lot of care when u r running in. I have roughly 5 days left and i'll chiong 100kmh CTE and avoid the left lane at all costs. Since when the left lane become danger zone... :giddy:

 

Run in can go 80km/h ma. It's not the speed that counts in running in, but the engine revolutions. You want the piston ring to sit in and form a perfect seal. The best way to do it is to drag your gears (not too high tho) when you accelerate, and use plenty of engine braking when slowing down. What I typically do for running in while on the expressway is push my speed to 80 or for short bursts of 90 when I'm going to finish running in. Then if traffic allows or I'm forced to slow down, use a lot more engine brake than usual, allowing the piston to cycle. If the road is completely clear, I will accelerate to 80, down gear engine brake, down gear engine brake, accelerate and up gear, accelerate and up gear and then push to 80 again.

 

Anyway ppl go fast doesn't mean they are seeking death or reincarnation etc etc. They may genuinely be in a rush. On the road, must try to be more kai fang la...don't just becoz someone pisses you off, you wish death on him. You wanna disturb, can la. I sometimes also waggle my handlebars to give them a scare, or keep switching my signals from left to right and left again if ppl tailgate me on my phantom. Don't get pissed then allow your judgement to be clouded...very important. Anything happens, bikers lugi the most.

 

Anyway the left lane is the most dangerous, I feel. All the trucks and big vehicles there. Slow vehicles are there also. Most motorists will carry the mentality that these slow vehicles can makan...so for eg, instead of slowly switching over to the left lane to exit expressway, they will floor the pedal to overtake these slow vehicles and cut in front to exit. The heavy vehicles are sometimes forced to brake coz of these stunts..then if you stick to that lane...cannot see shyte coz the truck is big and blocks your view....GG!

 

The extreme right lane is the safest, as hardly anyone there brakes for no reason. No huge, vision obstructing vehicles there also. But must be able to keep up la.

Postman Eating Inc*

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/murano04sfs/38y29ty14.gif

 

http://4gifs.com/gallery/d/155006-1/Mascot_scares_girl.gif

 

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when u spot a potential kuku, better to be in front of him than to be at the back to kiss his ass. the ass kisser will always be disadvantage.

 

Correctorama. Take for instance you see a car swerving erratically in front of you. As you catch up, you realise the fugger is chatting/smsing on handphone. You wanna overtake quickly? Or you wanna guai guai increase following distance, follow the bugger? You slow down ppl from behind whack how? Or you follow safely behind, the bugger swerve somemore, causing a vehicle beside you to swerve and hit you? More danger la, imho.

Postman Eating Inc*

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/murano04sfs/38y29ty14.gif

 

http://4gifs.com/gallery/d/155006-1/Mascot_scares_girl.gif

 

Squid defination: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=squid

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:giddy: :giddy: :giddy: :giddy: :giddy:

Haha.. well ur prob on 2nd hand bike was a learning exps too n i must admit that e searching part can b alittle test of patient...

 

On my "chui" part. Apparently i seem to b missing out kicks at gears"3/4". Somehow, onli manage to get all 6 when i real gentle in kicking from gear 3 to 4 n was wearing improper gear like sandals then.. :dozed: . On e expressway, every time i tot i was onli in gear 5 going to 6.. it already in 6. Thats why i wonder if i'm in e rite gear or as it "chui" esp when e engine is roaring at 90-100km/hr. Guess i'm a little paranoid n lack of practise for this instance.. Nevertheless, Will get Dr. Chong confirm again..

 

Say, did a little test on my start probs in e morning by trying to making 2 separate start at an interval of 1hr.. 1st start was accompany with a 3-5mins of warming up. But~ Seem like pulling of choke still require.:cry:

 

let Chong play w it lor, tell him to check everything, else he would just ID the problem u tell him abt.

 

i dun understand your test, if i did read properly, you test is not relevant. i think u just bump up the idle shd work wonders. actually even a poorly tuned bike shd start ok. (note: poorly tune not same as purposely tune super rich)

 

best part, my bike totally cannot start if pull choke.

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same for my bike I think, don't know how many dinosaur years not been using my choke :cheeky: think it flooded thats why it could start :confused:

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Run in can go 80km/h ma. It's not the speed that counts in running in, but the engine revolutions. You want the piston ring to sit in and form a perfect seal. The best way to do it is to drag your gears (not too high tho) when you accelerate, and use plenty of engine braking when slowing down. What I typically do for running in while on the expressway is push my speed to 80 or for short bursts of 90 when I'm going to finish running in. Then if traffic allows or I'm forced to slow down, use a lot more engine brake than usual, allowing the piston to cycle. If the road is completely clear, I will accelerate to 80, down gear engine brake, down gear engine brake, accelerate and up gear, accelerate and up gear and then push to 80 again.

 

Anyway ppl go fast doesn't mean they are seeking death or reincarnation etc etc. They may genuinely be in a rush. On the road, must try to be more kai fang la...don't just becoz someone pisses you off, you wish death on him. You wanna disturb, can la. I sometimes also waggle my handlebars to give them a scare, or keep switching my signals from left to right and left again if ppl tailgate me on my phantom. Don't get pissed then allow your judgement to be clouded...very important. Anything happens, bikers lugi the most.

 

Anyway the left lane is the most dangerous, I feel. All the trucks and big vehicles there. Slow vehicles are there also. Most motorists will carry the mentality that these slow vehicles can makan...so for eg, instead of slowly switching over to the left lane to exit expressway, they will floor the pedal to overtake these slow vehicles and cut in front to exit. The heavy vehicles are sometimes forced to brake coz of these stunts..then if you stick to that lane...cannot see shyte coz the truck is big and blocks your view....GG!

 

The extreme right lane is the safest, as hardly anyone there brakes for no reason. No huge, vision obstructing vehicles there also. But must be able to keep up la.

 

ive been working hard on the revs but skimping on the engine brakes. will use em more this final 500. (chong said 1500).

 

eer, not wishing them death, its just the chinese figure of speech for people who rush when usually not required.

 

sometimes i wonder if my ears are bad. the sharper the engine sounds, the louder the pops too! turn it out 1 round more, no pops but idle sounds murky.

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ive been working hard on the revs but skimping on the engine brakes. will use em more this final 500. (chong said 1500).

 

eer, not wishing them death, its just the chinese figure of speech for people who rush when usually not required.

 

sometimes i wonder if my ears are bad. the sharper the engine sounds, the louder the pops too! turn it out 1 round more, no pops but idle sounds murky.

 

actually i think u think too much while riding, riding must have feel one,skali the noise u hear are the noises around u?

The pain of discipline is nothing like the pain of disappointment
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I still prefer wear full face and try to ignore engine noises and all ;)

 

actually i think u think too much while riding, riding must have feel one,skali the noise u hear are the noises around u?

 

IMO, when u got a slight pain in the tooth, go get a 30 dollar filling done, if u wait till pain and cannot sleep, a crown will cost 300 not considering the pain of kena drilled.

 

some problem, only when engine working hard then u hear a difference. bring to workshop do full service is good but remember its just the basics.

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dude, for me I maintain BEFORE time is due so less chance of it happening.Like you I change EO before time due and such.If it were to have major problems, you'll be able to tell before/while you ride ;)

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Guest @h_püi™
Close the air screw all the way. Turn one round open and rev. You should hear a very 'bloated' sound. Turn another round open and rev. The sound should be sharper this time. The objective is to attain the sharpest sound possible, by turning 1/2 to 1 round, rev rev a bit....and adjust if necessary.

 

Anyway a clogged air filter will make your bike feel sluggish, and at worst, make your bike jerk till you feel you're riding a bronco. As far as I know, won't cause backfires or adverse FC to the point where you start taking note of it.

 

Thanks for the help btw :thumb:

 

thanks bro, but can check with you.. you mean open and rev is you turn the screw and rev or do it concurrently?

 

i notice koon tune is he rev and adjust the jet screw at the same time

 

got some info regarding carb tuning frm a thai motorcycle website and they are talking about kaihin carb which what phantom is using.. dunno how true...

 

http://www.motorcycle.in.th/article.php/Carburetor-Tuning-idle-mixture-tuning

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qn for all,

 

my bike KEEPS ON BACKFIRING! :( it got softer after awhile, when i 1st posted this qn. but now its much louder.. :( someone please enlighten me.. :(

 

today i felt too free (as usual) and decided to check on my air filter. Open it, clean a lot of garbage...... use compress air to blow, both sides..... use tissue to wipe wipe...... clean up the black stains all over (probably wet air + van exhaust) Guess what, Zero backfire, can even close the screw by 1/3 (too much air already, too lean --> can hear the engine very rough )

 

air suction?

or fuel suction dunno which one

 

basically just tell the motordiam, that thing below fuel tank that cost 50+++ dollars that cause the pop pop sound...... they will know.

 

qn for all,

 

my bike KEEPS ON BACKFIRING! :( it got softer after awhile, when i 1st posted this qn. but now its much louder.. :( someone please enlighten me.. :(

 

thanks bro, but can check with you.. you mean open and rev is you turn the screw and rev or do it concurrently?

 

i notice koon tune is he rev and adjust the jet screw at the same time

 

got some info regarding carb tuning frm a thai motorcycle website and they are talking about kaihin carb which what phantom is using.. dunno how true...

 

http://www.motorcycle.in.th/article.php/Carburetor-Tuning-idle-mixture-tuning

 

he wants to listen to the idle louder. its all about the sound of the idle. Idle is simply rev at the minimal mah. Engine skips or sounds bloated.... pls try again.

 

for me i dun use the idle sound method,

1) blow the throttle a few times quickly, the bike shd return to idle very fast. (will die off if too rich) if its too rich would sound bloated, if its too lean sounds very hollow.

 

2) When idle, should not stumble/skip. (too rich)

 

3) Go to MSCP, down ramp at 1st gear, should be zero backfire. Tiny pops are acceptable. (else may end up too lean)

 

4) when u blast throttle uphill, the bike should respond with good torque. If it farts, too rich. (usually places w private houses will have decent slopes to play on, else use the expressways islandwide )

 

5) check the spark plug. many websites teach u how to do it. Frankly, once u get used to it, dun check u also know its too rich/lean liao.

 

Basically i use backfiring as a benchmark that something's screwed up my fuel air mixture. A well tuned phantom should have minimal backfiring. Dun believe that crap that its a phantom's nature to pop pop pop. This method can take a few hrs of your time. Do make sure its well warmed by riding 10 mins thru the gears. Please, check the default number of turns so u can trace back if all else fails.

 

that's my checklist. I can never catch the correct rev sound so i use the "practical" method.

 

disclaimer:

This is my self taught method that works for me and my machine only, any reference or use, is at your own risk, for your own trial and error. Done wrongly, could cause damage to various parts of your precious bike in the long run.

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qn for all,

 

my bike KEEPS ON BACKFIRING! :( it got softer after awhile, when i 1st posted this qn. but now its much louder.. :( someone please enlighten me.. :(

 

eat too much onion.

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