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Posted
what is meant by the term IMHO and EFI ?

 

"In my humblest opinion" and "Electronic Fuel Injection" (carb-less bike)

Co-Moderator for IT -inerary forum

Biker nerd • Windows • Apple Mac • Android user

 

"Kick up your sidestand bro, let's ride..."

Posted
haha gangster also laugh already... archer why u always against me sia??

 

you think your post is productive?

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Stock is good...Choose your weapon wisely and enjoy it...you can have all the $$$$ to mod and in the end you can't make full use of it....
Posted

of coza must warm ** abit l0r, if not starting to ride from a bitter cold engine can cause faster wear and tear, as said, 1 cig time is enuff!

Looking at the ride tells everything about the rider

Posted
you think your post is productive?

 

not very but sure darn is funny :lol:

chill dude

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Posted

Hi there

I have heard and read in the net that warming your bike before a days ride will make the difference between fats wear and tear of piston and engine block, and going a long way maintaining the bike in good running condition.

During the nightly parking the oil will drain and collect at the bottom of the oil tank. the start up will force the oil to go to the other parts of the engine, whereby will lubricate them to protect from tear. It is safe to let it warm up for about 5min, or till you hear the engine smooth. Do not rev it up, just let it iddle. the purpose of warm up is the same for us. imagine waking up in the morning and run five times full speed around your block:faint: . As for the stick that you guys mentioned it will simply burn the lungs while waiting for the engine to warm:cheeky: .cheers and enjoy your ride

I just love the looks, feel and sound of an old good Guzzi, though it has been around since the time of my Grandfather. I guess "they" don't do things like that anymore! Well it's not true.

"They" still do URALS

Posted

Hi all, according to some expert, all car and bikes nowadays are design for start and go. Ideling of engine for anything more than 30 sec is a waste of petrol ($$$$$$$).

 

But the advice is , move slowly after just started the engine for better fuel comsumption and engine protection.

Posted
Hi there

I have heard and read in the net that warming your bike before a days ride will make the difference between fats wear and tear of piston and engine block, and going a long way maintaining the bike in good running condition.

During the nightly parking the oil will drain and collect at the bottom of the oil tank. the start up will force the oil to go to the other parts of the engine, whereby will lubricate them to protect from tear. It is safe to let it warm up for about 5min, or till you hear the engine smooth. Do not rev it up, just let it iddle. the purpose of warm up is the same for us. imagine waking up in the morning and run five times full speed around your block:faint: . As for the stick that you guys mentioned it will simply burn the lungs while waiting for the engine to warm:cheeky: .cheers and enjoy your ride

 

So did u pump petrol 3 times a day just like we need 3 meals?

Our heart dont really rest so did u left ur engine idling all the time since the day u brought it?

Does it make sense now?

Bikes Owned: LC125 RXZ135 GSXR400RP CB400VS CB400Spec2 SV650 02CBRF4i FZ1000 CBR929 05YZF-R6 CBR150 HondaSonic125 Yamaha_CygnusX125 KymcoGrandink_250 Hornet_250 04_Yamaha_Tmax Silverwing 400 FZ6_S2 GSXR600K7

 

Current bikes: NIL

Gear 4th

http://45.media.tumblr.com/f183dbd75b05df79cf6f77dba98d7339/tumblr_o1sqbk4h8Z1s5rcozo1_400.gif

Posted

Best warm up is let the engine run under light load. Idling for 5 mins or running under light load for 5 mins warm up engine faster...??

Bikes Owned: LC125 RXZ135 GSXR400RP CB400VS CB400Spec2 SV650 02CBRF4i FZ1000 CBR929 05YZF-R6 CBR150 HondaSonic125 Yamaha_CygnusX125 KymcoGrandink_250 Hornet_250 04_Yamaha_Tmax Silverwing 400 FZ6_S2 GSXR600K7

 

Current bikes: NIL

Gear 4th

http://45.media.tumblr.com/f183dbd75b05df79cf6f77dba98d7339/tumblr_o1sqbk4h8Z1s5rcozo1_400.gif

Posted
Hi all, according to some expert, all car and bikes nowadays are design for start and go. Ideling of engine for anything more than 30 sec is a waste of petrol ($$$$$$$).

 

But the advice is , move slowly after just started the engine for better fuel comsumption and engine protection.

 

how much petrol would you waste for warming up? if you can't even afford that few ml of petrol, why ride? :sian:

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Stock is good...Choose your weapon wisely and enjoy it...you can have all the $$$$ to mod and in the end you can't make full use of it....
Posted
how much petrol would you waste for warming up? if you can't even afford that few ml of petrol, why ride? :sian:

 

 

 

:thumb: good one there!

alternatives: if you wanna warm up your bike and not waste petrol

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rub both ya palms together fast and when feel that its warm to the touch warm the engine casing on both left and right. Do this for a couple of times and when "YOU" are warm enough proceed to ride off.

(the above is applicable only to bikes with exposed engine casing, for hidden within the fairings bike pls use other methods) :cool:

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2005-2006: Suzuki GSXR600 F* 75*

2007: Piaggio Vespa PX200E F* 9518*

2007-2008: Yamaha Spark T135 LE F* 75*

2008-Current:

Posted
Best warm up is let the engine run under light load. Idling for 5 mins or running under light load for 5 mins warm up engine faster...??

Yo Hachi since heart doesn't rest why not try the "run around block exercise right after bed. As for food I eat when stomach empty so I top up petrol when tank is empty. Rhetoric aside, warming the bike is a general rule which I have come accross in many materials and heard the instructors at CDC. Yet is up to any one whether to apply or not. I was just airing my opinion. Cheers and enjoy your ride.:cool:

I just love the looks, feel and sound of an old good Guzzi, though it has been around since the time of my Grandfather. I guess "they" don't do things like that anymore! Well it's not true.

"They" still do URALS

Posted

Wai meant is dont try to put funny logic that u think is correct to support your claim. Simple as that. If it make sense then my funny logic does make sense as well....

If you let ur engine idling for whole day I am sure ur tank can dry 3 times per day.....Why not u try it....

Bikes Owned: LC125 RXZ135 GSXR400RP CB400VS CB400Spec2 SV650 02CBRF4i FZ1000 CBR929 05YZF-R6 CBR150 HondaSonic125 Yamaha_CygnusX125 KymcoGrandink_250 Hornet_250 04_Yamaha_Tmax Silverwing 400 FZ6_S2 GSXR600K7

 

Current bikes: NIL

Gear 4th

http://45.media.tumblr.com/f183dbd75b05df79cf6f77dba98d7339/tumblr_o1sqbk4h8Z1s5rcozo1_400.gif

Posted
Wai meant is dont try to put funny logic that u think is correct to support your claim. Simple as that. If it make sense then my funny logic does make sense as well....

If you let ur engine idling for whole day I am sure ur tank can dry 3 times per day.....Why not u try it....

Mamduh posted some very relevant info, about those lubricating parts. And he just said one line about "imagine".

 

hachi relax lah, one small thing can agitate you so much. Bad for the body!! And i have logic to support why =)

Posted

I think i have posted some info few years back saying the best warm up is to ride lightly. You know somethin in SGP forum is that when people cant come up with info,date or theory that support but they often put in their funny logic..

Tear and wear is part and parcel of engine life, simple as that. Engine oil worked best when then engine is in optimum temp. That y stop and start traffic worked against EO, make sense right??

 

When you idle the engine let's in 5 mins. What is the temp?

When u run at light loads for 5 mins what is the temp?

EFI bikes have auto idle that increases rpm to around 2000rpm to hasten the process.

Since EFi bikes started their life with higher rpm than their carbs counter parts, do they suffered from premature wear...not that i heard of....

 

All oil flow into the oil sump, but there's always some oil on the metal surface. Warm up is to let the oil get into operating temp ASAP but at the same we cannot rev the tit out of it cos the metal parts inside need to get into temp as well.

By idling, u actually delay the warming up.

CArbs bikes are quite jerky before warm, reason being carbs settings was set during operating temp. They cannot compensate anything out of their setting unlike EFI, that take coolant temp,air,exhaust manifold and etc....

 

If you have read forum outside of singapore which I do like R1,CBR and SV forums. They come up with relevant info or experiences. Not once they have come up with out of bed run round the block logic. White light brighter than yellow light while the bulb is tinted...That is the difference...

Bikes Owned: LC125 RXZ135 GSXR400RP CB400VS CB400Spec2 SV650 02CBRF4i FZ1000 CBR929 05YZF-R6 CBR150 HondaSonic125 Yamaha_CygnusX125 KymcoGrandink_250 Hornet_250 04_Yamaha_Tmax Silverwing 400 FZ6_S2 GSXR600K7

 

Current bikes: NIL

Gear 4th

http://45.media.tumblr.com/f183dbd75b05df79cf6f77dba98d7339/tumblr_o1sqbk4h8Z1s5rcozo1_400.gif

Posted

I usually sit on bike, kickstart bike to life, put on helmet, put on armsleeves, look up at window to wave at mommy then ride off slowly to the main road. Enough to warm up the bike =)

Posted

Encore Hachi......the facts r so logic.....apparently there r still too many frogs in well in sg

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Posted

on a cold day, if i were to start a bike, the engine will start. but if i were to let it remain on idle mode, it will literally die off.

 

so to prevent the engine from literally dying off, i would rev it a little bit. then let it back to idle mode and before i hear the engine 'fading' off, i would rev it a little again.

 

by doing this, would this be damaging to the bike?.

For every 7 pounds you lose, you gain one horsepower.

Posted
on a cold day, if i were to start a bike, the engine will start. but if i were to let it remain on idle mode, it will literally die off.

 

so to prevent the engine from literally dying off, i would rev it a little bit. then let it back to idle mode and before i hear the engine 'fading' off, i would rev it a little again.

 

by doing this, would this be damaging to the bike?.

 

No harm done to the bike.

raining or not raining i also rev, no problem de, dun worry.

raining days open the choke longer, approx 30sec, rev abit, confirm will not die.

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Posted

Hi all

Few days back I posted some info (not so useful) of how to warm up the engine. You see I was giving knowledge from my experience of my 1986 bike, a MZ 250 2 stroke. Being an old bike and 2 stroke it required that kind of warm up, such as 3-5 min (more in winter) and in those time oils were single grade such as SA 30 for winter and SA50- 80 for summer. Anyway I screwed up :dot: and the warming up (at least for my phantom 4stroke) is like what Hachi and some others suggested, go on a light load. In a simpler way start, don't rev and take the gears smooth 1 to 2, mild revving. In a matter of 5 to 10 min your bike should be warmed up and quite ready for the day. if we iddle the bike in a stationary position the chamber might get choked, coz' the gazes are not forced out.

As for the run around the block analogy, well its just an analogy and its purpose is to make an importand yet boring technical info, easy and fun to read. Therefore no point wasting time with it. What we all want (including myself) is good beneficial knowledge. Hope I gave the right info. Take care and enjoy the ride.

I just love the looks, feel and sound of an old good Guzzi, though it has been around since the time of my Grandfather. I guess "they" don't do things like that anymore! Well it's not true.

"They" still do URALS

Posted

abt engine warm-up.... for this old scooter, if i never warm up , then whenever i do mild throttle, the engine will sound very very weak and....the engine will cut off if i continue mild throttling.......but after riding for some time, it will be fine with mild throttling.

 

can some1 advise what happening? is it because of no warm up or somethin is not right for the piston etc?

Posted
Hi all

In a simpler way start, don't rev and take the gears smooth 1 to 2, mild revving. In a matter of 5 to 10 min your bike should be warmed up and quite ready for the day.

 

Wah means i have to ride at gear one or two when i got out of carpark ah? 5-10 mins is quite long to move inside carpark only lol.

Posted

The main reason for warm up is to get the engine oil into the correct operating viscosity. Even with 'cold climate' viscosity rating like 5W50 (say Maxima Ultra), the oil is >6 times as thick as it is when fully warmed up. 15W50 oils >7 times as thick, 20W50 oils can be >9~10 times as thick. This is in our tropical climate, imagine people staying in winter conditions.

 

The lubrication and cooling of the crank bearings depend largely on the flow rate of oil. When it is cold and thick, there is too much resistance to pump and there is a valve in the oil pump mechanism of the engine that divert the flow away. What happens is that there is insufficient flow to the crank bearings. While there is an oil film clinging to the metal parts, this itself does not offer the full protection, in fact, not even close! This is a time when the the antiwear additives that plate the metal surfaces plays a big part, they act as a barrier that takes the wear instead of the base metal.

 

The principle of the crank lubrication is like those big granite balls 'floating' on a a base with flowing water, shut off the water and the ball touches the base, stop spinning. You can oil up the ball and force it to spin, but it still gets damaged.

 

If you rev the engine hard at this point, the bearings area can heat up very fast from the friction. But the oil in the sump is still cold and not flowing up to the bearings fast enough to sustain the oil film pressure, resulting in metal to metal contact, scarring the delicate bearing material. The end result is similar to running the engine without sufficient oil, spinning a bearing in the worse case scenario.

 

Of course, with our type of climate, we don't have the same level of coldness that people in winter climate have to deal with. The engine starts right up with little hesitation. Still, the oil is 6~10 times as thick compared to what the engine is designed for. In smaller 2B bikes, the oil takes forever to come up to temp, so might as well ride off gently once you can have steady idle. Class 2 bikes pick up temp much quicker and takes only a short while to get warm.

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