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Posted

i believe JB can find many of our mike's aftermarket stuff and such... maybe one day we can org a trip down to see see look look

 

but personally i dont have much gd feeling bout that place

:cool:
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Posted

Actually, as long as its denso / NGK idirum spark plug shld b ok...

there's a recommendation in d manual, but i'm not following. idirum 4 me only.

 

Agree that the rims have to change as well...

but i don't know the weight of it.

can't expect to change one with either heavier or equal weight as stock,

see no point in doing so..

will go jetting this coming sat. (recommend is 6 mths 1x)

 

cold start not really a prob 4 me.

as i use my bike everyday

but during aug, i went 2 italy 4 a mth, come back...

took me 5 mins b4 i could start.

blame me for not disconnecting the battery and emptying the fuel..

ppl riding pulsar as far as i know, have no cold start prob...

dun 4get, our engine block is not a new one. few yrs back tech...

so who could blame.

 

fuel charger.... may be getting it on sat 2... c how it goes.

Posted
  Delusi0n said:
i believe JB can find many of our mike's aftermarket stuff and such... maybe one day we can org a trip down to see see look look

 

but personally i dont have much gd feeling bout that place

 

 

Don't bother with JB lah, I frequent there, for my RXZ yes a lot of parts, for CBF can forget it cos its not a popular bike there (may not be even imported into Malaysia). Of cos there may be some generic aftermarket parts which fit all Hondas, just that I don't think its worth the effort to make a dedicated trip down...

 

What wrong with your starter relay btw? Me worry that mine will also have problem if I continue cranking like that due to the difficult cold start. But have to give credit to the Boon Siew mech for tuning my cab, the problem is less severe now although its not completely resolved, intend to ask Boon Siew to tune again at my next service...

Posted
  theforce said:
Don't bother with JB lah, I frequent there, for my RXZ yes a lot of parts, for CBF can forget it cos its not a popular bike there (may not be even imported into Malaysia). Of cos there may be some generic aftermarket parts which fit all Hondas, just that I don't think its worth the effort to make a dedicated trip down...

 

What wrong with your starter relay btw? Me worry that mine will also have problem if I continue cranking like that due to the difficult cold start. But have to give credit to the Boon Siew mech for tuning my cab, the problem is less severe now although its not completely resolved, intend to ask Boon Siew to tune again at my next service...

 

No big deal actually, should be just a little kink on the connection part or button part. sometimes when i press the electrical stare, it dont crank, but sometime it will. but i switch off the electrical start and on it again and try, it comes up.

:cool:
Posted

For me to handle cold start, i normally will crank and hold the open the trottle slightly to keep it reving withing it dying. than i will open the choke to near the line labelled and let it runs on its own.. when it gets better.. i close the choke again.. normally will feel the engine blk and 4T block for slight heat before riding off.. this way, it wont even give a jerk when you kick to 1st gear

:cool:
Posted

Our bike have ECU? Though only higher-end bikes have it ...

 

Btw can anyone check if your bike 'creeps' a bit when fully clutch-in in first gear (from cold)? Mine does leh, checked that clutch freeplay is ok, not sure if its a problem... yeah my bike jerk slightly when engage first gear too (when engine cold).

Posted

What do you mean by your bike creeps a little in first gear? You mean your bike moves forward a bit eventhough you fully clutch in when engaging first gear? I guess that should not be a problem as my ex Vtec1 also jerk and move forward slightly when I engaged my gears. Its a norm for honda bikes I guess. The 2nd gear rough engaging is also similar to Vtec1. I used to think that I was poor in my gear shift. But I also noticed that other Vtec1 riders at that time also faced the same problem in gear shift. Hee...

Posted
  Yeoman said:
What do you mean by your bike creeps a little in first gear? You mean your bike moves forward a bit eventhough you fully clutch in when engaging first gear? I guess that should not be a problem as my ex Vtec1 also jerk and move forward slightly when I engaged my gears. Its a norm for honda bikes I guess. The 2nd gear rough engaging is also similar to Vtec1. I used to think that I was poor in my gear shift. But I also noticed that other Vtec1 riders at that time also faced the same problem in gear shift. Hee...

 

Yeah, exactly as what u described. But it gets ok after the bike is running hot. Not a problem I guess, just asking out of curiosity, Thanks bro!

 

The Boon Siew mech adjusted my clutch freeplay to the minimum (without me asking), maybe a lot of pple complain rough gear change. At first I was worried that the clutch plates will not disengage fully and get worn out easily. But after trying out for a while I realised gear-changing is actually easier and smoother. U guys may want to try too if you are facing difficult gear changing...

Posted

Hey guys, some interesting pics which I found in the internet. Now, who is saying that CBF150 is meant for ah peks only??? :p

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/derlih79/blog021.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/derlih79/blog042.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/derlih79/cbf.jpg

Posted
  Yeoman said:
Hey guys, some interesting pics which I found in the internet. Now, who is saying that CBF150 is meant for ah peks only??? :p

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/derlih79/blog021.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/derlih79/blog042.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/derlih79/cbf.jpg

 

Wah damn cool pics yeoman, can see the racing pipe, racing spark plug cable, enlarged cab and air intake in the first pic, no stand, and lady racer somemore hehe *nosebleed

 

I think if well-versed in Chinese can find a lot more pics, cos all the CBF pics will be in the chinese sites ... not me for sure :p

Posted
  theforce said:
Wah damn cool pics yeoman, can see the racing pipe, racing spark plug cable, enlarged cab and air intake in the first pic, no stand, and lady racer somemore hehe *nosebleed

 

I think if well-versed in Chinese can find a lot more pics, cos all the CBF pics will be in the chinese sites ... not me for sure :p

 

Haha... think you didnt noticed that the racing CBF is using a rear disc brake as well. Chio chio right? But what motivate me more is the beautiful babes in my signature pic. Hee hee... :cheeky:

 

Not necessary that you need to be well verse in chinese to be able to find those websites. I just googled for it and manage to grab quite a few nice webby liao...

Posted
  imzf said:
Hi guys CBF batt is using dry or wet cell batt??? o_O

 

CBF batt is wet cell.

Posted
  Yeoman said:
CBF batt is wet cell.

 

Can we change it to dry cell? I do not like the idea of topping up battery water.

 

Can we also change the rectifier so that the headlights are in a constant brightness instead of the lights flickering at idle speed?

------------------------------------------

1996-1999 Hurricane 400cc

2000-2007 CB400 Vtec 1

2007- CB400 Vtec 1 / CBF 150

Posted
  jaggy said:
Can we change it to dry cell? I do not like the idea of topping up battery water.

 

Can we also change the rectifier so that the headlights are in a constant brightness instead of the lights flickering at idle speed?

 

Ok let me give my opinion on these questions based on my limited mechanic experience hehe .......

 

Sure you can change to a dry cell, but a word of warning is that 'maintenance free' dry cell tend to die suddenly when they reach the end of their working life (you could find yourself unable to start the bike one day).

 

On the other hand, the conventional wet cell tends to die gradually (you feel the battery getting weaker and starting becoming gradually difficult, but it won't die on you suddenly). I would stick to the stock battery cos it came with the bike lah (why waste $)

 

As for the issue of topping up battery water, lazy people like me never do it one haha ... just use until the battery die, the surprising thing is that all my batteries lasted me in excess of 3 yrs so I guess its no issue there. Needless to say, I'm an avid supporter of wet cells.

 

 

Your headlight is flickering because its 'directly' connected to the rectifier. That is why it lights up brighter when you rev the bike. If you want a constant beam, changing the rectifier won't work. You have to re-route the wiring system of the bike so that the headlight is connected to the battery instead of the rectifier (getting a constant current). Certainly not worth the trouble and $ in my opinion.

 

Just as an example, your 'passing' high-beam button is directly connected to the battery, so it will not be affected by the revving of the engine (not that much anyway).

Posted
  Yeoman said:
Haha... think you didnt noticed that the racing CBF is using a rear disc brake as well. Chio chio right? But what motivate me more is the beautiful babes in my signature pic. Hee hee... :cheeky:

 

Not necessary that you need to be well verse in chinese to be able to find those websites. I just googled for it and manage to grab quite a few nice webby liao...

 

Ok bro, be sure to find more pics of our bikes with the hot chicks hehe ...

 

Hey do you have a larger version of the pic in your signature? want to print out put on my cubical haha

Posted
  Delusi0n said:
can check out if any exchust can be used to replace the stock? maybe can do a mass order

 

Hmmm.. change of exhaust pipe will almost certainly result in higher FC and increased engine wear, not to mention the hefty fine by LTA if the pipe is not approved.

Posted
  jaggy said:
Can we change it to dry cell? I do not like the idea of topping up battery water.

 

Can we also change the rectifier so that the headlights are in a constant brightness instead of the lights flickering at idle speed?

 

Hi Jaggy,

 

Theforce has explained it quite well. The headlight is also designed to work in such a way to conserve batt life. Battery is the most critical component for any vehicle to function. Of course you can choose to change the batt to dry cell at any point of time. But based on my experience and also what Theforce described, dry cell batts can die off any time upon reaching its life span. Usually the period is around 1-2 years. This may be more troublesome as compared to maintaining the original wet cell. But of course it is subjected to individual opinion.

Posted
  theforce said:
Ok bro, be sure to find more pics of our bikes with the hot chicks hehe ...

 

Hey do you have a larger version of the pic in your signature? want to print out put on my cubical haha

 

No problem. Just pm me with your email add.

Posted

I just got 53 km/L for my 3rd tank top up.

 

Consumption looks good. Going down to Boon Siew tom...

------------------------------------------

1996-1999 Hurricane 400cc

2000-2007 CB400 Vtec 1

2007- CB400 Vtec 1 / CBF 150

Posted
  jaggy said:
I just got 53 km/L for my 3rd tank top up.

 

Consumption looks good. Going down to Boon Siew tom...

 

Wah how come I only get mid-30s to 40km/litre...? Whats your cruising speed and riding style like?

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