SBF Classic Vespa's Cafe 2009 / 2010

[EJatt]

ouhkie..thx gweester..i will check it out later..thx

[Gweester]

no worries mate...my pleasure...

ask Tong Aik on the scoots....it is a AP plate light purple scooter...

 

 

happy testing!!!

[ah786786]

Originally posted by Gweester@Nov 13 2006, 03:46 PM

Sharpey, Phew! tot the cost of the paperwork for LTA is S$700....cos for other bikes the inspection cost is only S$50...

so the S$700 is the exhaust and shipment cost...still pretty hefty...

guess i will have to shelve the idea for the time being...

 

ah786786, yeah....guess it looks pretty awesome to be fitted with those kinda of exhaust...but doubt it will be approved...

we can mock up however hard it is on the rest of the stuff but the exhaust just kills it....Sigh!

when will LTA loosen the rules on exhaust for our scoots?

 

BTW, anyone got the address of the scooter shops in JB?

Tot of going to check it out while i still have my big bike....

I always go to this vespa shop,its the shop i mentioned earlier.......

They specialise in racing vespas.....

From the time i got my vespa,got introed to the shop by my dad,frm than always go there service....

 

Service very good,Price also very good....

 

Sometimes weekdays got to go early if not got to wait in queue....

[Gweester]

the vespa shop you are talking about is ????

Tong Aik???

[ah786786]

the shop i talking abt is in JB.

[Sharpey]

ah786786

 

Still a bit vague

 

Does this shop have a name?

 

Would be cool to check out.... as long as I can be handcuffed to scooter at all times to prevent theft.... Too many horror stories have made be scared of riding into Malaysia.... Don't get me wrong... I LOVE Malaysia... great place, great people.... just paranoid....

[azahoneystar]

Sharpey -> Thx... ya I didnt bring my spare tyre. N i dun even noe hw to fix one haha~

 

machine_k -> ok once i buy new glove box i giv u mine.

 

yey tmrw taking back my bike frm tong aik. wana ask aunty ah soo hw to fix e rear tyre hehe

[machine k]

azahoneystar, give ah? haha free?

[ackl]

azahoneystar - same problem happened to me before.

but i am worst --I have spare but don"t know how to change.

but luckily manage to find some kind bro to help out.

so it better to know before you are in needs.

also the clutch cable. need to know how to change also.

 

 

just get back my vespa from a engine overhaul..

been think to go for a CDI change or overhaul the engine

with my limited budget i can only get one done.

but sure can feel the differents before and after overhaul.

[Sharpey]

Changing the rear wheel is easy if you know how....

 

Here goes...

 

Get a 13mm spanner (or one of those "t" shaped tools from your favourite scootershop...)Remove spare wheel and place to one side... Then, loosen the nuts on the punctured rear wheel before taking the wheel off the ground...

 

Turn off fuel... (preferably run scooter until its dies from lack of fuel) to prevent flooding later....

 

If you can find a wall to lean scooter onto, then turn handlebars till they lock and then tilt towards wall. Handlebar will touch wall, so the scoot will be balancing on 1 leg (main stand) and handle grip.... Mechanics use this technique in their workshops... Your rear wheel should now spin freely (gear in neutral ) loosen nuts, remove wheel, put new one on... etc..

 

If you can't find a wall, no worries, you can lie the scoot down (engine towards ground)... Your scooter cover makes a perfect blanket here....

You won't break anything doing this... (just remember to remove the engine side cowl [cover] first!!!)

 

Hey presto... no more flat tyre... and you've saved yourself either a long walk, or a 30 dollar ride in the bikebulance....

 

Hooray...

[Gweester]

ah786786,

 

Do you have the address or name of the shop in JB?

would love to check it out....

 

Yeah....heard lotsa stories of stolen scoots in M'sia....

anyone tried alarm on vintage scoots?

[maz]

Originally posted by Sharpey@Nov 15 2006, 03:44 PM

If you can't find a wall, no worries, you can lie the scoot down (engine towards ground)... Your scooter cover makes a perfect blanket here....

You won't break anything doing this... (just remember to remove the engine side cowl [cover] first!!!)

 

Hey presto... no more flat tyre... and you've saved yourself either a long walk, or a 30 dollar ride in the bikebulance....

 

Hooray...

Gotta agree absolutely with sharpey on that. Its the best way to change the tire anywhere. If u afraid u might scratch ur flywheel cover, cover with a cloth or u could have a DIY jack with just a screw driver( not too long no too short). U can place the screw driver upright rest it on the end where ur rear suspension is. wallah u can take out the tire.

 

By the way a size 13, 11, 10 are handy spanner size to have incase of emergency. Most of the nuts are that size. With juz the 11 u can open the whole engine carb included. except for a 14 for the suspension and a 17 for the exhaust. Its a gd investment cos i've seen some bike which goes on the bikebulance for minor problem. Maybe sharpy can teach to do some of the simple on the road repairs.

 

So sharpey hows ur progress on the ur latest vespa project?

[Sharpey]

Erm... Roadside repairs eh..... hmmm... Touch wood, I havne't really ever done any

 

Must say that I've yet to change a clutch cable... last time mine broke I limped to the shop without a clutch... i.e. forcing scooter into gear... This is possible, but wears out the "shifting cross" or cruciform....

 

You'll know if your cruciform is worn out when you scooter suddenly decides to jump out of gear... or find it hard to engage a particular gear... (btw cruciforms are designed to wear out... you change them so that you don't need to change other things...like the gears.. which as a result don't wear out)

 

Anyone think of others??

 

Good tip on the spanners Maz.... I believe seng huat hardware store (on jln besar near the top on the right side... has its own mini parking lot) outside sells a roll of spanners (stanley brand = good) in these common sizes... fits nicely in the glove box, and thanks to the cloth roll, doesn't vibrate in there

 

 

Am now starting the painting again on the project vespa.... first attempt turned out crappy... since I didn't do enough body preparation before starting... Hopefully this time it'll work! YAY!

 

Anyone got a pinasco kit 200cc that they want to sell??? Am in the market for one...

 

Cheers,

 

James.

[ackl]

IF have 2 piece of Wood work as well place them on your main stand one on each side.

and just take out your tyre.

 

""u could have a DIY jack with just a screw driver( not too long no too short). U can place the screw driver upright rest it on the end where ur rear suspension is""

 

The first time i change the guy use this way as well with a wooden stick.

 

Anyone change the front before..

it is the same? (beside don"t need anything to rise your wheel)

[vespa ak]

just to check u guys.what kind of vespa acessories would u guys be looking for?e.g mud guard etc etc

[Sharpey]

exactly the same... doing the front is just a question of loosening nuts, changing wheel and then tightening nuts...

 

Remember to always tighten nuts in a star pattern... (ensures the wheel is on straight)

 

[maz]

Originally posted by Sharpey@Nov 16 2006, 11:38 AM

Remember to always tighten nuts in a star pattern... (ensures the wheel is on straight)

 

yes this is absolutely important. screw handtight first before actually tigthening with spanner in star pattern. make sure that u go thru all the nut in this manner once again to ensure all the nuts are tight. else if the nut are not tight the vibration might cause it lossen up and ur ride will be wobbly. I kena before. lucky neva fall down.

 

if anyone of u plan to change ur tire and tube urself. deflate the tube. remove all the screw on the rims. the next part will be the hardest splitting the rims from the tire. i use a flat screw driver and go thru round the rim like opening a can of paint. the u can replace the tube. make sure the valve is pointing on the rite direction. inflate it abit before lining it in the tyre. place the rim and put all the screw. this part is crucial. do not tighten it first make sure u can see the tube. inflate abit more. then bounce the tire. this is to make sure the rims dont crip the tube when u tighten it. after this is confirm then tighten all the screw.

 

All this may sound easy but when its crunch time it will take us a long time to do it. An advise will be to pratise it then u will be familliar and will neva repeat the same mistake again.

 

I realise there isnt any checklist for us to refer if we find it hard to check why our scooter doest start. Anyone care to draw one up? For me i will check if my plug fire up first. that is to ensure the coil is ok and the plug is ok.take out plug then place bag the plug cap. put it on the engine and kick start. u will see the whether there is spark coming from it. if if the plug doesnt fire up u can narrow it down to the coil, cdi,plug. if it does fire up it could possible be the carb. main jet sometimes is the main culprit. the vibration causes it to tighten up. so it bloody hard to start. evrthing else like timing doesnt idle, the bike start but spluuters and die off, too excessive white smoke could be due to wear and tear in the engine. esp the oil seals,clutch side and flywheel side. thats all i have now. correct me if i'm wrong and do add on if u have any inputs

[machine k]

Just to add on to Sharpey's ride-without-clutch-cable issue,

 

it is possible, but no doubt it will lead to some wear and tear of the cruciform, but you can try to reduce the amount of wear and tear by twisting the gear shift at the right moment.

 

Heh, not an easy way of describing when is the right moment. i'd say when the rpm is not too high, not too low. 'cause if you realise, gear shifts are usually easier when it is at a certain rpm range for that specific gear. So if you are at the right rpm for the gear shift, a light twist will set the gear change easily.

 

Thats just FYI, its best to change that clutch cable...haha

[machine k]

heh, this is an old fault chart i've seen somewhere in the internet.

 

Though there are more possible causes...

anyone care to add on?

[Mark C.]

Originally posted by maz@Nov 16 2006, 01:31 PM

I realise there isnt any checklist for us to refer if we find it hard to check why our scooter doest start. Anyone care to draw one up? For me i will check if my plug fire up first. that is to ensure the coil is ok and the plug is ok.take out plug then place bag the plug cap. put it on the engine and kick start. u will see the whether there is spark coming from it. if if the plug doesnt fire up u can narrow it down to the coil, cdi,plug. if it does fire up it could possible be the carb. main jet sometimes is the main culprit. the vibration causes it to tighten up. so it bloody hard to start. evrthing else like timing doesnt idle, the bike start but spluuters and die off, too excessive white smoke could be due to wear and tear in the engine. esp the oil seals,clutch side and flywheel side. thats all i have now. correct me if i'm wrong and do add on if u have any inputs

Hi bro maz,

You might like to take a look at these thread that contribute by our value members: Info on Classic Vespa.

Hope to see more contribution.

[Sharpey]

good tips there maz and machinek....

 

we should copy into the info on classic vespa thread....

 

Or someone want to setup a wiki... perhaps when not busy....??

That'd be cool

[maz]

cool got flow chat. didnt realise it was in the sticky. none the less its still quite useful.thanks machinek and mark c. What i know i can share. still learning albeit havent had much time to explore somemore.

 

Still tempering and exploring/researching on 2 areas which i'm not really satisfied yet. firstly the suspensions. cant get the right stiffeness suspension for the front(3 legged fork) and rear. i dont know how i can modifiy the front fork to fit other types of shock. and for the rear no money buy bitubo. Sharpey are u using the klaus studio rubber for ur suspension and engine mount? how much does those rubber cost.

 

Secondly is the gear ratio stuff. have been searching and going thru the net but cant seem to find wat gear ration to use. One thing i know is to use a t5 fourth gear. as the gap is smaller between the forth and the 3rd. and i also not sure how to calculate the clutch teeth. now using 20/64? thinking of switching but dont know wat combination for wat. 21/ something or 23/64. one is for long distance one is for pick up.. this one is still super blur. ANyone got use pinasco lightweight flywheel? got any comment or even anyone selling? hehe. Cheers

[Sharpey]

First things first maz... what scoot do you ride??

 

The clauss mounts pricing is available on their website.. http://www.claussstudios.com

[maz]

Log card say gs150. not the classic gs but i the squre headlight. using px150 engine and a 200cc clutch. change outlook become nonsense. hybrid of old and new.

 

u mean to say u import the thing in? thought u got it from tong aik.

[Sharpey]

Hi Maz... nope... I imported straight from Mr & Mrs Clauss... very nice people... you send money via pay pal (get a shipping quote first though...)

 

Both the shock mount and the engine mounts are good, and well worth the money for the added stability they give....

 

Best way to improve front end stability is to get rid of those old 3-legged forks... You'll be hard pressed to find a better shock to fit that old design... With the px design you have a choice of sebac (import yourself) bitubo (available here) and fournales (import yourself...) Order is cheapest first...

 

Sebac front and rear are good and cheap (if you can afford to import...)

 

You don't need a T5 4th on a 150 setup... they only benefit 200cc scoots

 

Advice on gearing... can't help... I do know that folks on stellaspeed.com have experience with 150 scoots.... they're a nice bunch too