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  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Bros... I'd like to replace my seat for my CB400 Revo model. If possible, can anyone here advise cost of original replacement vs replica.

Also, of shops that would give a good deal for seat replacement.

 

Thanks :)

Posted

Bros... I'd like to replace my seat for my CB400 Revo model. If possible, can anyone here advise cost of original replacement vs replica.

Also, of shops that would give a good deal for seat replacement.

 

Thanks :)

Posted

Hi all today just dp for my new revo 2014:cheer: hope to learn more things from all the old birds in here :lovestruck:

:cheer:1995 LC125 // 1997 RS125 // 1999 NSR250 PGM4 // 2001 EG5 // 2006 TS // 2009 S4 REVO // 2010 CTR // 2012 STI // 2014 S4 REVO // 2015 CBR600RR :cheer:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Installed the scottoiler earlier and after traveling for a distance, realized a spot of oil at the swing arm and the rear rim was full of small oil dots.

 

Checked the reservoir and the adjuster knob at the reservoir was set to 3/4 maximum. I cleaned that small oil spot from the swing arm, turned the knob to the minimum and went for lunch.

 

After my lunch, saw a small spot of oil under my rear sprocket.

 

Rode home and again, the small oil spot appeared at the same swing arm and I cleaned off again. Will take a look later.

 

Since I have adjusted the flow rate to the minimum, I am not expecting to see that excess oil on my swing arm. Is this normal? What is the ideal setting for local riding, considering I am not throttle happy and leisure rider.

 

First time using scottoiler and seeking some opinions from the gurus here.

 

Merry Christmas to all.

Posted
Installed the scottoiler earlier and after traveling for a distance, realized a spot of oil at the swing arm and the rear rim was full of small oil dots.

 

Checked the reservoir and the adjuster knob at the reservoir was set to 3/4 maximum. I cleaned that small oil spot from the swing arm, turned the knob to the minimum and went for lunch.

 

After my lunch, saw a small spot of oil under my rear sprocket.

 

Rode home and again, the small oil spot appeared at the same swing arm and I cleaned off again. Will take a look later.

 

Since I have adjusted the flow rate to the minimum, I am not expecting to see that excess oil on my swing arm. Is this normal? What is the ideal setting for local riding, considering I am not throttle happy and leisure rider.

 

First time using scottoiler and seeking some opinions from the gurus here.

 

Merry Christmas to all.

 

it is more like a trail and error for adjusting the scottoiler. after you reduce the flow there is still leftover oil on your chain and sprocket so it will take awhile before you wont see the oil anymore unless you want to wipe off all the excess oil manually.

for me i'm using 1/3 turn however mine is self-mod to have dual injector head, so 1/3 might be too much for you.

2012 - 2015: Honda CB400 Spec3

Posted
it is more like a trail and error for adjusting the scottoiler. after you reduce the flow there is still leftover oil on your chain and sprocket so it will take awhile before you wont see the oil anymore unless you want to wipe off all the excess oil manually.

for me i'm using 1/3 turn however mine is self-mod to have dual injector head, so 1/3 might be too much for you.

 

Thanks for the prompt reply.

 

There was a new spot of oil at the same area of the swing arm again. You could be right that the spot of oil could be due to the excess on the chain and sprocket coz the installer adjusted to 3/4 during the installation.

 

I have adjusted the knob all the way down to the minimum band and after I turn on the engine, the tip is not dispensing the oil. Does it take that long to dispense a drop at the minimum? Or it only dispense when the bike is moving?

 

Reason I'm confused is because I read somewhere and stated that it should be adjusted to 1 drop per min and it will auto dispense after the engine is on, even when parked. However, there are some users who reported that the dispensing is based on the speed instead.

Posted
So there's float in it right. Went to unique. Told me Dono if there's floater. Cos thy yet and encounter such issue yet. And if No floater. Thy told me Dono must change what.. I didn't hear properly. I hear the price properly only.. told me night cost 800+ to 900+ . *slap head*. Anyway. ... Thanks bro. Like tat I'll go check around first..

 

Bro, not sure whether u changed it already. But the fuel pump and float for the revo is a one piece item. Cost price is 750+ from boon siew. if your bike is not under warranty then actually... Just make do with the mileage meter... Not really worth to change it. Wait till fuel pump spoil then change together.

Posted
Thanks for the prompt reply.

 

There was a new spot of oil at the same area of the swing arm again. You could be right that the spot of oil could be due to the excess on the chain and sprocket coz the installer adjusted to 3/4 during the installation.

 

I have adjusted the knob all the way down to the minimum band and after I turn on the engine, the tip is not dispensing the oil. Does it take that long to dispense a drop at the minimum? Or it only dispense when the bike is moving?

 

Reason I'm confused is because I read somewhere and stated that it should be adjusted to 1 drop per min and it will auto dispense after the engine is on, even when parked. However, there are some users who reported that the dispensing is based on the speed instead.

 

yup the manual states that you should get one drop per min but personally i feel that's too much. what i suggest you to do is turn it up 1/4 round and ride for awhile, probably 1 or 2 days then check your chain to see if it is wet. if it is not wet turn up slowly bit by bit and check again. i personally use the SCOTTOILER word that is directly below the knob as a guide to adjust. i think currently my knob is pointing at the letter I or L.

 

also to let you have a better understanding. assuming you are using the scottoiler-V, it operates when your engine starts where it creates a vacuum to open the valve at the top of your scottoiler. so in order for the scottoiler to start dispensing oil you have to start your engine, not just by turning on your bike key. speed does not affect your dispensing at all, it only creates more splatter if you turn the dispensing knob too much hahaha.

2012 - 2015: Honda CB400 Spec3

Posted

I am not sure if this the correct section to post it, but I wish to share my experience about this miraculous product which @ahpek carry.

 

I recently purchased a 2nd hand S4 revo ABS. The engine condition was not too bad to begin with given that its a low mileage bike.

I paid ahpek a visit to do up my grounding and happened to met a fellow forum-er riding a COE renewed spec 1.

Given that its a old bike plagued with problems, Ahpek introduced a solution which he termed "liquid engine rebuilt" to salvage this old bike.

According to the owner of this spec 1, mototiam diagnosed the bike and suggested that a hefty top overhaul is required as usual.

I will try to explain this " liquid engine rebuilt" to the best of my knowledge ( as heard from ahpek).

As moving parts such as the piston rubs against the wall of the block, wear and tear deteriorates these parts (not to mention gasket and etc) over time.

Essentially, what ahpek does is to add his magical formula into the engine oil. This magically formulation comprises of a few compounds when activated forms crystal lattice which are 7 times harder than steel.

Heat (produced by the bike) activates the compounds and forms crystal lattice structure which fills up the cavity along the piston and the block wall,much like applying putty to a rough wall.

 

Having nth to lose, these are just additional knowledge to me, and I have no intention to purchase this at this point of time as my bike conditions still feels ok to me (60k km for 6.5 yrs bike).

However, few days later I received WA messages from this spec 1 chap telling me what he purchase was what indeed ahpek claimed. I was still quite skeptical but still I gave it a try.

 

I was told that activation will take around 150km, however, I could immediately feel the effect of it at my 50km mark.

50km mark, Engine brake becomes stronger. Gear change gives a more solid sound (much like engaging the 1st gear on an R6, my previous ride). Prior to this, my S4 gear change felt ordinary and wasnt as smooth.

120km mark, I could feel significant improvement to my throttle response. TIGHT is the exact word I would use here. (i think it is cuz of the near perfect power transmission from combustion chamber to drive the conrod then to the crankshaft

175km mark, I have never break a brand new super 4, but i think thats what it should feel like.

 

I have not tested if my FC improve significantly but theoretically, it should. What can I say? I am a happy man. Paying a small price for riding a "new" bike. kudos to @ahpek

 

P.S. I dont gain from promoting ahpek and his product, but I believe people who believe in what i said have very much to gain from this lengthy read =P

Posted
yup the manual states that you should get one drop per min but personally i feel that's too much. what i suggest you to do is turn it up 1/4 round and ride for awhile, probably 1 or 2 days then check your chain to see if it is wet. if it is not wet turn up slowly bit by bit and check again. i personally use the SCOTTOILER word that is directly below the knob as a guide to adjust. i think currently my knob is pointing at the letter I or L.

 

also to let you have a better understanding. assuming you are using the scottoiler-V, it operates when your engine starts where it creates a vacuum to open the valve at the top of your scottoiler. so in order for the scottoiler to start dispensing oil you have to start your engine, not just by turning on your bike key. speed does not affect your dispensing at all, it only creates more splatter if you turn the dispensing knob too much hahaha.

 

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Just check my bike earlier, there is no residue oil on my swing arm after I cleaned off the last spot yesterday.

 

My knob is within the word "minimum" and when I start the engine, no oil is dispensed as observed. Perhaps it is too minimum. Anyway, there's a small pocket of air near the end of the plastic tube where it meet the black dispenser, so not sure if this affect the function and hence no oil when the engine is running.

 

Will continue to monitor.

Posted
I am not sure if this the correct section to post it, but I wish to share my experience about this miraculous product which @ahpek carry.

 

I recently purchased a 2nd hand S4 revo ABS. The engine condition was not too bad to begin with given that its a low mileage bike.

I paid ahpek a visit to do up my grounding and happened to met a fellow forum-er riding a COE renewed spec 1.

Given that its a old bike plagued with problems, Ahpek introduced a solution which he termed "liquid engine rebuilt" to salvage this old bike.

According to the owner of this spec 1, mototiam diagnosed the bike and suggested that a hefty top overhaul is required as usual.

I will try to explain this " liquid engine rebuilt" to the best of my knowledge ( as heard from ahpek).

As moving parts such as the piston rubs against the wall of the block, wear and tear deteriorates these parts (not to mention gasket and etc) over time.

Essentially, what ahpek does is to add his magical formula into the engine oil. This magically formulation comprises of a few compounds when activated forms crystal lattice which are 7 times harder than steel.

Heat (produced by the bike) activates the compounds and forms crystal lattice structure which fills up the cavity along the piston and the block wall,much like applying putty to a rough wall.

 

Having nth to lose, these are just additional knowledge to me, and I have no intention to purchase this at this point of time as my bike conditions still feels ok to me (60k km for 6.5 yrs bike).

However, few days later I received WA messages from this spec 1 chap telling me what he purchase was what indeed ahpek claimed. I was still quite skeptical but still I gave it a try.

 

I was told that activation will take around 150km, however, I could immediately feel the effect of it at my 50km mark.

50km mark, Engine brake becomes stronger. Gear change gives a more solid sound (much like engaging the 1st gear on an R6, my previous ride). Prior to this, my S4 gear change felt ordinary and wasnt as smooth.

120km mark, I could feel significant improvement to my throttle response. TIGHT is the exact word I would use here. (i think it is cuz of the near perfect power transmission from combustion chamber to drive the conrod then to the crankshaft

175km mark, I have never break a brand new super 4, but i think thats what it should feel like.

 

I have not tested if my FC improve significantly but theoretically, it should. What can I say? I am a happy man. Paying a small price for riding a "new" bike. kudos to @ahpek

 

P.S. I dont gain from promoting ahpek and his product, but I believe people who believe in what i said have very much to gain from this lengthy read =P

 

 

Yup. I had everything done by him. The longer you used the bike the more you feel the difference. And slowly your bike will FC will greatly improved. I ever rode till empty tank, really empty. Haha! It gave me a mileage of 430km. And tried without getting my tank empty which was 15L @ 380km.. So, yah it will improve. Btw, my bike is the first few model of revo. Fuel sucks alot initially. Lol!

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
I am not sure if this the correct section to post it, but I wish to share my experience about this miraculous product which @ahpek carry.

 

I recently purchased a 2nd hand S4 revo ABS. The engine condition was not too bad to begin with given that its a low mileage bike.

I paid ahpek a visit to do up my grounding and happened to met a fellow forum-er riding a COE renewed spec 1.

Given that its a old bike plagued with problems, Ahpek introduced a solution which he termed "liquid engine rebuilt" to salvage this old bike.

According to the owner of this spec 1, mototiam diagnosed the bike and suggested that a hefty top overhaul is required as usual.

I will try to explain this " liquid engine rebuilt" to the best of my knowledge ( as heard from ahpek).

As moving parts such as the piston rubs against the wall of the block, wear and tear deteriorates these parts (not to mention gasket and etc) over time.

Essentially, what ahpek does is to add his magical formula into the engine oil. This magically formulation comprises of a few compounds when activated forms crystal lattice which are 7 times harder than steel.

Heat (produced by the bike) activates the compounds and forms crystal lattice structure which fills up the cavity along the piston and the block wall,much like applying putty to a rough wall.

 

Having nth to lose, these are just additional knowledge to me, and I have no intention to purchase this at this point of time as my bike conditions still feels ok to me (60k km for 6.5 yrs bike).

However, few days later I received WA messages from this spec 1 chap telling me what he purchase was what indeed ahpek claimed. I was still quite skeptical but still I gave it a try.

 

I was told that activation will take around 150km, however, I could immediately feel the effect of it at my 50km mark.

50km mark, Engine brake becomes stronger. Gear change gives a more solid sound (much like engaging the 1st gear on an R6, my previous ride). Prior to this, my S4 gear change felt ordinary and wasnt as smooth.

120km mark, I could feel significant improvement to my throttle response. TIGHT is the exact word I would use here. (i think it is cuz of the near perfect power transmission from combustion chamber to drive the conrod then to the crankshaft

175km mark, I have never break a brand new super 4, but i think thats what it should feel like.

 

I have not tested if my FC improve significantly but theoretically, it should. What can I say? I am a happy man. Paying a small price for riding a "new" bike. kudos to @ahpek

 

P.S. I dont gain from promoting ahpek and his product, but I believe people who believe in what i said have very much to gain from this lengthy read =P

 

 

Hi hyyh2409...thanks for sharing it here. Oh yah..save bike wear and tear, save fuel, sve overhaul high cost and have a great safe ride...made it 5 yrs younger, ha...x3!

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Yup. I had everything done by him. The longer you used the bike the more you feel the difference. And slowly your bike will FC will greatly improved. I ever rode till empty tank, really empty. Haha! It gave me a mileage of 430km. And tried without getting my tank empty which was 15L @ 380km.. So, yah it will improve. Btw, my bike is the first few model of revo. Fuel sucks alot initially. Lol!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

:cheer:...Kudos bro..ride safe and enjoy ur ride always.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi there. I'm looking to trade + I top up my original rectangle S4 mirror with the new type original round mirror. Anyone interested can msg/whatsapp me at 86138204. Thank you.

"Don't do onto others, what you don't want others to do onto you"

"What goes around, comes around"

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
:cheer:...Kudos bro..ride safe and enjoy ur ride always.

Hi ah pek,my revo have misfiring problem.already change spark plug and problem not solve..spark plug cable ok and coil also ok..I suspect maybe the injector spray fuel not working properly. Anything else could be fault such as TPS sensor?

 

Sent from my ASUS_T00J using Tapatalk

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