All about Steed

[jtzx]

Merry xmas!!!

[jiansheng]

Merry Xmas everyone. Thanks to all bro that been helping me thru out the yr...thanks!!

[zhigang]

Merry Chrismas, to all bros riding steed

Just got my steed this week and would like to share with you. I got from a bike shop, they have done all the necessary work, so far so good. if everything good, i will post the bike shop name later for your ref.

Enjoy with the pics

[madman]

Merry Chrismas, to all bros riding steed

Just got my steed this week and would like to share with you. I got from a bike shop, they have done all the necessary work, so far so good. if everything good, i will post the bike shop name later for your ref.

Enjoy with the pics

 

looks like shadow fenders... easy to spot u otr if ever meet i guess.

[Terrible One]

Yo Nomad..

 

" 30096.1

 

here it is s promised, I wrote this as I adjusted my own valves.

ATTENTION!!!When I wrote this, I took the valve slack measurements from the manual, this morning when I took off my tank for something else, I noticed that there was a sticker under the tank on the frame with that model years valve adjustments, which might be different from the model year of your bike, mine is a 2007,and it does have the same valve clearance but you never know so, make sure of what the measurements for your model year bike are supposed to be, as EPA additions each year MIGHT have changed some valve measurements, The one's that I wonder about would be the pre 99 dual carb bikes, which MIGHT have a different valve lash, so please check!

REMEMBER!!!check your model years valve measurement requirements

SORRY about this, I'm human, and do make mistakes, But the rest of this IS accurate, I assure you:-)

First of all, this is for those that have never attempted to adjust the valve lash in their Honda VLX, both standard and deluxe ( the ONLY difference between the two models is that on the deluxe, the valve covers and crank case side plates are chrome instead of brushed aluminum, and from 98 and later, the standard came only in black, where the deluxe came in red/blue/and silver (although Honda called the silver some kind of exotic blue for sales hype)

That being out of the way, let's begin.

CORRECTION ADDED AFTER POSTING: when turning the crankshaft with the socket, turn it COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, and on some valves, it will make it much easier if you feel free to bend the feeler gauges to make it as easy as you need to accomplish the task.

1) turn the petcock to the OFF position and run the engine until it runs out of fuel (this drains the fuel lines and the carb)

2) remove the triangle cover on the left side with a phillips screwdriver (from now on, the LEFT is the side without the carb or pipes)

3) remove the fuel petcock with your fairly small phillips and put all these parts in a small box marked "fuel parts"

4) after you have removed the triangle fuel line cover, the petcock, you will see two rubber hoses behind where the triangle cover was, the OUTSIDE one is the fuel line, remove this line from it's mounting.

5) after removing the seats, take a 12MM socket to the bolt at the rear of the tank, and after removing this bolt, gently lift the tank rear and gently pull the tank rearward to remove.

6) after securing the tank where it can't fall over or get damaged, on the left side, there are two round covers, the larger one in the center of the crankcase

is 38MM and the one to the rear of that round case is 31MM, remove them both with allen wrenches,careful not to damage the rubber grommets. Also, clean them real good.

7)remove the lower spark plugs from each cylinder,(the ones' on the sides, as they are easier) to remove the compression resistance when you rotate the crank to get each piston at TDC when it's time.

8) CLEAN the valve covers to the point that you could eat off of them! This is because as you remove the valve accsess covers you will find that even though you have already cleaned the valve covers, there will be quite a bit of dirt down in the flanges that the covers sit on. with a damp paper towel, GENTLY remove all signs of foreign matter from this area, then with dish soap water, clean around the openings real good, you don't want dirt falling into the valve train.

9) When you remove the valve lash covers from the valve covers ( the intake covers [ones in the middle] will be slightly larger due to 2 intake and 1 exhaust valve) by removing the allen key screws that secure them.(a small hint here to avoid a TON of agrivation. on the rear valve lash cover on the rear cylinder head, the inside screw is a ***** to get at, if you take the correct allen key, only an extra LONG one and grind the short end about just under half the normal length, it will be 100% easier. There is very little room at this spot.

10) now it's time to get the rear (I always start here, as the rear is the easier set to do and will build your confidence as well) valves and to make sure that the piston is at TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke (when the spark plug

is going off) by lining up the marks in the small opening on the left side SMALL cover by turning the bolt attached to the end of the crankshaft in the LARGE opening with a 17MM socket (this is why we removed the side mounted plugs, to make it possible to turn the crank without needing to fight the compression) so that the "RT" mark lines up with the line and all 3 valves are closed at the same time.

11) now that the rear piston is at TDC on the comp. stroke, and you have accsess to the valves, loosen the lock nut on top of the valve (10MM) and then, with a VERY SMALL adjustable wrench (I did not have a wrench this small, I think that the square adjusting nut is about 4MM) you will then, with the proper feeler gauge

(intake .006 MM, exhaust .008 MM) adjust the SQUARE nut out till you can get the feeler gauge in easy, then with the feeler in place, tighten the square nut till you can JUST move the feeler, then while holding the square nut steady with a wrench, tighten the lock nut (10MM) till it's fairly tight and won't come loose)HEAR IS A TIP TO MAKE THINGS A LITTLE EASIER: you can adjust the valves with your fingers by turning that small square nut by hand till it is just snug, then back it off about a 1/4 turn, so that when you tighten the lock nut, which should just be a very little loose, when it turns as you lock it down, those small square nuts will also turn a little with the lock nut. It will take a little guessing about how loose to leave them, after you lock down the 10mm nut, check the gap again with the feeler gauge to be sure it is correct.

Now repeat this whole thing for all three valves on the rear head, then repeat this whole thing again on the front head. The HARDEST part of this whole thing, is the front cylinders exhaust valve is a total ***** to get the feeler gauge into, as it is tight there, and the radiator is in the way, as well as hoses. But, just be PATIENT, and take your time with the exaust valve up front, and it will be worth it, if nothing else, just for the challenge. When you are done, and have everything buttoned up and running again, you will see why Honda Dealership Service Dept's charge $175 to do this! I hope that this helps. PS: IF anyone see's something that I missed,(I AM NOT PERFECT!) Please jump right in and either add to, or correct my mistakes, Thanks MG.

if you have any questions, or get stuck somewhere, just call me, and I will help you out verbally any way I can, just call me at

Home:406-662-3562

Cell:406-670-2557

Glenn Montanaghost Merideth.

[email protected]

http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr176/montanaghost

 

"

[icemanX]

hi sprint74, nice colour man,my bike handlebar & side box nt ready yet..nt even started yet,,the HANDYMAN was VERY BUZY during bonus time..i post the pic here once he completed the job..

[zhigang]

i saw some bros change their handle bar to the stright type, it is more stylish, but is it easy to ride? i heard from my mech, they said stright type will make u feel heavy, is it so? thanks

[boyvin]

any outing or gathering will be posted here?

Hmm, was wondering if any outing nxt weekend.

Merry xmas to everyone here!

[Nomad]

Yo Nomad..

 

" 30096.1

 

here it is s promised, I wrote ........ny way I can, just call me at

Home:406-662-3562

Cell:406-670-2557

Glenn Montanaghost Merideth.

[email protected]

http://s481.photobucket.com/albums/rr176/montanaghost

 

"

 

So dude have you done it already or just sharing the information first?

I realised that i might have a small issue and that is an absent of a petcock. somehow, my tank is a direct Gas flow to the carb. kinda weird....

[Nomad]

gathering postponed.

Edited December 28, 2009 by Nomad

[zhigang]

hi, bros, just got my steed400 less than a week, i was shock when i pump the petrol.

after hit the reserve tank, i only run about 170km, it is far from your standard, any suggestion what i need to improve?

when i got the bike, have change the engine oil and 4 plugs, but no change the air filter and the oil filter, is there anyway can improve the FC?

many thanks in adv.

[Terrible One]

So dude have you done it already or just sharing the information first?

I realised that i might have a small issue and that is an absent of a petcock. somehow, my tank is a direct Gas flow to the carb. kinda weird....

 

I haven't even read tru wat I copied and paste.. Haha.. Mine also same as urs wat.. I just unplug and stuff a bolt or and old spark to stop the fuel..

[boyvin]

Dear Fellow Steed riders,

 

Let's gather together before we close the chapter of 2009.

Venue: In the East zone this time since the last time was somewhere north.

Riders in the east, any suggestion on a nice place over there?

 

Time: Wednesday December 30, 2009 / 7.45pm - 9.45pm

I was thinking of planning it on New Year's eve (Dec 31st) but I believe most of us would have some plans in mind for the special day.

 

Attendees:

Nomad

 

I would love to attend.

I might hav an overseas trip which is still pending now.

Altho I stay in the west, i faithfully vote for jalan kayu.

[boyvin]

i saw some bros change their handle bar to the stright type, it is more stylish, but is it easy to ride? i heard from my mech, they said stright type will make u feel heavy, is it so? thanks

 

Mine is a straight type.

It is super heavy to turn.

The previous owner bought it so I dun noe where or wat brand it is.

[zhigang]

Mine is a straight type.

It is super heavy to turn.

The previous owner bought it so I dun noe where or wat brand it is.

 

Thanks, so i'd better not to change to straight type,

[icemanX]

hi zhigang, its cool too hav drag bar on steed, believe me..but get a longer length and at least 30 degree Pullback..you got few choice at CHONG AIK, ask for catalog before you buy..

[Terrible One]

Thanks, so i'd better not to change to straight type,

 

Looking at the fenders you have on your bike, I don't think drag bars will go with that look

[Nomad]

Looking at the fenders you have on your bike, I don't think drag bars will go with that look

 

I have to agree too.

Based on your profile picture, your bike has a cruising setup.

Usually full dressed cruisers would suit either wide beach bars:

http://www.cyclesolutions.net/images/products/kingpincycles/suzuki_beachbars6.jpg

or ape hangers:

http://www.metricthunder.com/news/wp-content/uploads/2006/12/rodriguez.gif

[gmoh]

hi zhigang, its cool too hav drag bar on steed, believe me..but get a longer length and at least 30 degree Pullback..you got few choice at CHONG AIK, ask for catalog before you buy..

 

i got my dragbars from chong aik about 2 months ago, at that point of time they only had one selection there, not much to choose from, plus they dont sell risers so.... hopefully they stock up within these 2 months -fingers crossed-

[gmoh]

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/PhotoGallerys/xlarge/Rats_Hole_gator_bike.jpg

 

simply wtf. haha.

[boyvin]

1. I would like to ask if bros here do change their air filter to aftermarket ones?

What brand are recommended?

 

2. What engine oil is recommended? I would prefer a 10w one.

Is Indemitsu ok for steed? Coz last time my civic i always use Indemitsu ones. Good!

 

3. What brand is a good choice for chain lubing? I intend to DIY every 1000km, with the help of a car jack. I am totally noob to chain lube tho..need to pick up fast.

[gmoh]

1. I would like to ask if bros here do change their air filter to aftermarket ones?

What brand are recommended?

 

2. What engine oil is recommended? I would prefer a 10w one.

Is Indemitsu ok for steed? Coz last time my civic i always use Indemitsu ones. Good!

 

3. What brand is a good choice for chain lubing? I intend to DIY every 1000km, with the help of a car jack. I am totally noob to chain lube tho..need to pick up fast.

 

well nomad and I are thinking of getting the K&N cone filter from online sometime back, so that is something you can consider? though we still have to figure out the rain-proof measures...

[zhigang]

hi zhigang, its cool too hav drag bar on steed, believe me..but get a longer length and at least 30 degree Pullback..you got few choice at CHONG AIK, ask for catalog before you buy..

 

Thanks bros, i got a riser on my bike, i think just need to buy the handle bar and install.

btw, any idea how much it is going to cost?

[gmoh]

Thanks bros, i got a riser on my bike, i think just need to buy the handle bar and install.

btw, any idea how much it is going to cost?

 

i got mine at 50 or 60 bucks (i cant remember), T1 told me his friend got his at only 30 if i remember correctly?

 

ah boy said his dragbars are also from daytona and he can sell a lot cheaper but personally, ah boy vs chong aik, ah boy's definitely more dodgy la, thats just my opinion btw. To each his own haha, goodluck!

[Nomad]

1. I would like to ask if bros here do change their air filter to aftermarket ones?

What brand are recommended?

 

2. What engine oil is recommended? I would prefer a 10w one.

Is Indemitsu ok for steed? Coz last time my civic i always use Indemitsu ones. Good!

 

3. What brand is a good choice for chain lubing? I intend to DIY every 1000km, with the help of a car jack. I am totally noob to chain lube tho..need to pick up fast.

 

(1) I am using a 3rd party airfilter. previously using original. no difference at all. Probably the make and quality slightly cheaper feel but doesn't affect performance.

 

(2) semi synthetic will do. 10w is fine. locally most EO are okay to use. won't destroy anything. unless you plan to go to some high altitude and cold atmospheric riding in the alps.

 

(3) There are simply too many to choose from. Oil, foam, spray...

some sticks on, some splatters all over, some vapourizes to easily.

all but a matter of trial and error and alot of rim washing. I am using RJ london's chain lube. bike shops usually use left over EO as chain lube.