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I read page 1 and page 4 of this thread.

 

In a public forum, the best arguments fly on their own wings, while the harder one tries to push a failing one the more it cannot stand.

 

I can only hope more people read this thread.

 

On a side note, and off topic at that. Just needing some quick independent input from knowledgeable electricians but not sure u guys read the battery threads.

 

A battery charger charges an 8 amphere battery in 8 hours according to the manual. If my batt goes flat due to a failing charging system (rectifier+coil) on the bike, the nearest AC socket at the petrol station will not return me a full charge in 2 or 3 hours. It might actually take longer than 8. Correct?

 

There's a lot of crap but thankfully some wise words in this thread, such as by ncknight and Strongeagle (as always) This i know is correct.

 

Its always a pleasure to see sorely inadequate replies to good arguments. Its worth a good laugh over a beer :deal:

P-plate should be an attitude to safety and riding. There's always more to learn.

 

10417710_10152885054228332_2597706433133321618_n.jpg?oh=a3e4c65165b15e5d659161c304211563&oe=54FB0965

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Hello there,

 

The stator+flywheel combo puts out either 8V or 14V to charge a 6V or 12V battery respectively; you cannot hook up a 240AC mains supply to the battery.

 

In most cases at bike shops, they will have a step down transformer used specifically for battery charging, and the rate of charging will be determined by the capacity of the transformer; but safe to say that these transformers should be able to charge your battery faster than via on-vehicle stator+flywheel (or in Singaporean terms, dynamo/coil).

 

I read page 1 and page 4 of this thread.

 

In a public forum, the best arguments fly on their own wings, while the harder one tries to push a failing one the more it cannot stand.

 

I can only hope more people read this thread.

 

On a side note, and off topic at that. Just needing some quick independent input from knowledgeable electricians but not sure u guys read the battery threads.

 

A battery charger charges an 8 amphere battery in 8 hours according to the manual. If my batt goes flat due to a failing charging system (rectifier+coil) on the bike, the nearest AC socket at the petrol station will not return me a full charge in 2 or 3 hours. It might actually take longer than 8. Correct?

 

There's a lot of crap but thankfully some wise words in this thread, such as by ncknight and Strongeagle (as always) This i know is correct.

 

Its always a pleasure to see sorely inadequate replies to good arguments. Its worth a good laugh over a beer :deal:

projectsenso.com - Asia's Entrepreneurs Community, bringing 1,241 entrepreneurs from Singapore, Malaysia and Philippines together!

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Hmm.. Its a Ctek battery charger designed to be plugged in to AC socket and safely charges the 12V DC batteries. I was just wondering about the time needed to charge.

 

Lets just hope I do not find that out on my trip :angel:

 

But thanks, ncknight.

P-plate should be an attitude to safety and riding. There's always more to learn.

 

10417710_10152885054228332_2597706433133321618_n.jpg?oh=a3e4c65165b15e5d659161c304211563&oe=54FB0965

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Hmm.. Its a Ctek battery charger designed to be plugged in to AC socket and safely charges the 12V DC batteries. I was just wondering about the time needed to charge.

 

Lets just hope I do not find that out on my trip :angel:

 

But thanks, ncknight.

 

Just to let u have a peaceful mind - may i loan u a XS3600(3.6amp) - so u can choose to charge at a faster rate if u need to. :cheeky:

HP: 93891138 :angel:

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

wow, interesting read.

My Rides:

LuLu, Piaggio Gilera Runner FXR 180 (Feb05-Aug05)

PhanPhan, Honda Phantom TA 200 (Aug05-July07)

Leyley, HD Sportster XL1200R (Jul07-July09)

TiTi, Yamaha Majesty YP250 (Jul07-Oct09)

DyNaNa, HD FXDX Dyna SGS (Jul09-Dec10)

LanPaPa, Vespa Excel PX150XE (Oct09-Jul10)

PiaSekSek, Piaggio X8 (Aug10-Dec10)

Stixie, Honda ST1300A (Jan11-Nov15)

Giogio, Piaggio MP3 400IE (Nov15-??)

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Interesting indeed. I was actually quite impressed with revtec after reading the MO thread for it, seeing as how there were so many positive reviews. I admit, I am not electrically trained nor was I particularly adept at physics in school but the information in this thread provided was presented simply enough (notably by SE and ncknight) and it has pretty much dispelled my previous notions about volt stabilisers in general.

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  • 3 years later...

...

 

But how does the "voltage stabilizer" help? No physical explanation that makes any sense. Its construction and installation will tell anyone with a knowledge of electricity that it can't possibly do what it says it is supposed to do.

 

Here is a fact: The voltage stabilizer is connected in parallel across your battery terminals. In turn, the charging system is connected in parallel to the battery. When the charging system is operating properly it puts out 14.1 volts... this is the voltage potential needed to cause a lead acid battery to charge. There is NOTHING the voltage stabilizer can do to change this voltage, except maybe becoming a hard short circuit... which of course is not a good thing. And when the charging system is not charging, the voltage potential across the battery is 12 volts... the battery voltage... and because the "stabilizer" (ha ha ha) is connected in parallel, it too, must have exactly the same voltage potential, and there is nothing that it can do to change that voltage potential. In short, it is crap.

 

It's sold to gullible people who do not understand what they are buying. They are getting ripped off. And that, sir, is garbage.

 

PS: "Grounding" is also a total waste of money. Truly, as long as you have clean, tight connections and cable ends that are properly connected to the cables, electricity absolutely does not give a sh*t whether it travels one inch or one foot to become grounded. In fact, vehicles and all electronic circuits are built with a single ground to minimize floating ground problems, which can occur when you connect two devices together intead of grounding them to a single ground.

 

Voltage stabillizer is NOT the same as an voltage regulator !

A regulator keeps the amount of voltage you wished for .. and see's the it doesnt drop below or rises above

 

A voltage stabilizer has more to do with noise , spikes .. spikes are not always dffernt amount of voltages

AS we all know that this battery charger doenst simulate 100 percent proper sinus wavve and is rectified trough some stupid diodes or in the best case an IC555 or some other transistors...

 

The purpose for the capacitors placed in paralel is to make sure that you fill the gaps in the sinus wave WHENEVER there is ONE ! and It's not ALWAYS there ... becouze when you start your car.. YOu deal with harsh conditions like ... engine temperature... Thats why the engine does not turn good in idle speed when you start up the engine.... After a few seconds or minutes this will no longer be the case..since your ECU takes care of it and does what IT have to do in PERFECT conditions . Ofcoruse the engines are now much more avanced and the ecu keeps up with all the changes.. but not all the vehicles have that.. Also in high revs... You get a hell lot more noise ! How do you explain the crapy noise that most people experience when they listen to there radio? Obviously this is form the altanator ! Couz you can hear you engine reving... Even my grandmother could hear this... By aplying the voltage regulator / stabilizer it gives a helping hand. I dont believe this would give 10 extra hp like they say but I do believe There might be a smoother engine respons.. It depends on you car.. how old.. howdirty the conections are.. it depends on alot of things. But This would definatly not hurt your car .... It looks good , you can sleep good at night by knowing that is a good thing to do overall for your car

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  • 2 years later...
The car/vehicle charging system has been the same for decades. Nothing much has been done to the basic operation of the car battery charging system. For all commercially available vehicles, the output of the alternator is regulated by an IC regulator, which charges the battery all the time and maintains the battery at about 90% before fully charged. This is a continuous drain of at least 1-2kW, or more, of the useful power from the flywheel of the engine, regardless of the driver's demand or road condition. If the engine is not properly tuned, such loading can be most obvious and annoying during idling. In fact, the larger a battery is used in a car, a larger amount of energy may be required to charge the battery depending on its state of charge.

 

The spikes and loadings on the battery affect the ECU operation. Also, the regulator IC in the alternator has limited response speed. All these result in a fluctuating voltage that cannot be cured by brute force, such as adding capacitors at the B+ 12V supply rail. (The output voltage is controlled by the IC pumping current into the excitation winding of the alternator. The performance of this IC has a direct relationship of output voltage stability.)

 

The fundamental solution is to optimize the whole battery charging system, improves the dynamic responses of the charging IC, increase the rate of change of field winding current to maintain optimal operation. And under certain operating conditions, balance the charging system such that the alternator no longer forces energy into the battery. Hence, at least 1-2kW of useful power is saved from the engine. With the loading removed, the engine will appear to be livelier, responsive, and the useful power can be transferred to the wheels. Also, with the load removed, the engine RPM is more stable and hence a more stable voltage is observed.

 

Ez-stab provides the benefits of a balanced charging system, giving a much more stable voltage and yet reduces loading on the engine. In the near future, Ez-stab will be designed into an active control closed loop battery charging system with intelligent control/communication with the ECU. Sounds overkill, but it is an area, which many performance car designers overlooked. We have addressed this problem and had filed a patent in Singapore, soon in USA and Japan. While many perform extensive modifications such as exhaust or engine porting to gain a few horsepower; such benefits may be easily achieved thru an Ez-stab in the system with no sacrifice of vehicle comfort and vehicle warranty. Ez-stab also protects the battery and ECU for repeated heavy usage within service life.

 

Anyone interested in a unit..??

 

:cheeky: :cheeky:

 

How much is it? Pm me

 

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08 Oct 2009 - 20 Nov 2010 : Vespa Excel P150XE

06 Nov 2010 - 11 Oct 2012 : Gilera Runner ST200

11 Oct 2012 - Present : Yamaha FZ1-S (Fazer)

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  • 11 months later...

Hmmm... Interesting

Regulators/rectifier to convert stator AC high voltage to DC and charge the battery at it bike spec.

What is a voltage stablelizer? A bunch of capacitor which store current temporarily.

If there is a power surge, rectifier is kaput.

:bounce::bounce:
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  • 5 years later...

I got one because I thought it would help. My lights would flicker and voltage would be 15v and when I rev certain sensors would say a problem when there was simply not. It ended up being the regulator in the alternator. I think this helps in ways I can explain only for  Mitsubishi lancer. If any vehicle your lights flicker this might help. A lead acid battery is already a stabilizer, I put one on a red optima and I think there is parasitic drain.

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  • 1 month later...

it helps in terms of smoother engine but one thing to take note if you dun ride daily.

battery drain a lot faster, so just remove it if you are not riding daily. If riding daily, can just put on for smoother engine.

 

tested - put on - my battery can last about 5-7 days without riding.

take off, at least 2-3 weeks without riding.

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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On 2/4/2021 at 9:18 AM, adesmond2 said:

it helps in terms of smoother engine but one thing to take note if you dun ride daily.

battery drain a lot faster, so just remove it if you are not riding daily. If riding daily, can just put on for smoother engine.

 

tested - put on - my battery can last about 5-7 days without riding.

take off, at least 2-3 weeks without riding.

Are these still applicable to newer bikes with advance electronics? These voltage stabilizers sure did help in the past with carb bikes with wonky wiring and tech/electronics but it seems these days voltage stabilizers are getting less common.

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On 2/6/2021 at 10:54 PM, SBF said:

Are these still applicable to newer bikes with advance electronics? These voltage stabilizers sure did help in the past with carb bikes with wonky wiring and tech/electronics but it seems these days voltage stabilizers are getting less common.

The above report is based on my Kawasaki Kips KR150..  :) 

based on several bike shops, they say not required.. Let me try after I get my 2A bike.. haha..

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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On 2/8/2021 at 6:34 AM, adesmond2 said:

The above report is based on my Kawasaki Kips KR150..  :) 

based on several bike shops, they say not required.. Let me try after I get my 2A bike.. haha..

Which 2A bike are you looking at? Shopping for new bikes is the best part!

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9 hours ago, SBF said:

Which 2A bike are you looking at? Shopping for new bikes is the best part!

hahaha.. most likely will settle with MT-03.. Check with bike shops and users, very maintenance free and fussle free bike.. Super 4 they say a lot of problems and too cosy to repair as well..

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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