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Posted
Y HELO THAR!

 

Give you a call sometime. Or you could just give a call sometime.

 

:)

 

 

SMS me ok. I really forget to save your number, really sorry.

2004-2006- KR150ZX *Stolen* :cry:

2006-2007- Honda CBX200S

2007-2013- Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-i UG3 and Honda CBR400RR-R (Both scrapped)

2013-current - Piaggio X10 350, 1996 Honda RVF400RT, 2003 Aprilia RS125 and 2003 Aprilia RS250 GP1.

Posted
WELL GUYS...

 

Finally I hit 60k KM for the past 1 yrs and 10 months... :angel:

 

60km only? mine still at 40+k mark. but after calculating, that means 30km in just 8 months!!! and the furthest place i've gone is danga bay. lol..

 

Hi bro, may I know how much does it cost for the spark plug and plug cable and how do we go about changing it? Hoping to save more fuels as recently had been traveling more often and pillion. :)

 

Hmm... is there any guideline on the air/fuel ratio? Not too sure how to determine mine.

 

Hi bro, can teach me how to take out the exhaust and maintain it? Thanks a million in advance.

ya la. how to maximise fuel efficiency and set the bike to run long distance better. the only thing i did is to change my rear sprocs to a size 38. i need some help too!!

 

Realized I don't have any pictures of the suspensions themselves. Heres a pic of the tail end of my bajaj with all the boxes on. Tires are Shinko tires. Looks like michelin pilot, eh? bought the tires F + R for 150 at Chong Aik @ 26 Joo Chiat Road. 180 for a pair of BT39 tires is ****ing ridiculous.

 

Makida sussers can be had at lorong bapok for less than 200rm.

 

i paid my friend $100. its expensive, but you can call it "members price" i guess. rezeki halal dibagi.

 

anyone else wanna change suspension? count me in! bro... u tell me too late sia! i just changed both my front and rear tyres for $193 over at UM. pocket burned!

 

anyway, i had my lunch at Eu Tong Seng foodcourt, the one behind Bugis Junction and saw this cool pulsar!!! The pulsar head has been totally ripped out to make way for a super 4 headlamp with the analogue meter remaining and IU unit on top of it. then, got belly pan that look very similar to the bike. people would have thought that the belly pan comes along with the bike. anyone seen this bike before?

Posted

Oh yeah Lucky21, sorry for the air/fuel ratio question, I missed it. It is compilated. Ideal ratio is usually range from:-

 

Air:Fuel = 20:1 (Lean Mixture - More power but damage the engine faster)

to

Air:Fuel = 14:1 (Rich Mixturre - Lesser power but lengthens the engine life by using more petrol)

 

Easier terms to understend, your spark plug head gives a good indication of your combustion ratio. Try removing it and see:-

 

- Very black with thick carbon coating at plug tip means - Your fuel is too much.

- Black plug tip - Still ok with a acceptable combustion ratio, fuel abit to much but ok.

- Brown plug tip - Perfecto, perfect combustion ratio between air and fuel mix (also gives the max combustion power out from the engine.)

- White plug tip - too much combustion air (waste of power and also can damage the engine if the plug is too white, hard to start engine also).

2004-2006- KR150ZX *Stolen* :cry:

2006-2007- Honda CBX200S

2007-2013- Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-i UG3 and Honda CBR400RR-R (Both scrapped)

2013-current - Piaggio X10 350, 1996 Honda RVF400RT, 2003 Aprilia RS125 and 2003 Aprilia RS250 GP1.

Posted

Pulsar is a very good bike in terms of good milage, longest I try was 850Km in a single tank with a LD Spec and a 38 sprocket rear, but very board to ride at a very slow speed. But never mind due to fuel prices like sky high. Better be save money than no honey.

2004-2006- KR150ZX *Stolen* :cry:

2006-2007- Honda CBX200S

2007-2013- Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-i UG3 and Honda CBR400RR-R (Both scrapped)

2013-current - Piaggio X10 350, 1996 Honda RVF400RT, 2003 Aprilia RS125 and 2003 Aprilia RS250 GP1.

Posted
:cry::cry:

 

see what i mean ??!! cry again... just like usopp...

 

hahahahaha :cheeky:

Regardless of race,religion and gender.

We sworn to our duty and honour.

We carry out our duty as a team and not indivdual.

We protect the Honour and interest of the TEAM.

Because,

We are all BIKERS

Posted
Oh yeah Lucky21, sorry for the air/fuel ratio question, I missed it. It is compilated. Ideal ratio is usually range from:-

 

Air:Fuel = 20:1 (Lean Mixture - More power but damage the engine faster)

to

Air:Fuel = 14:1 (Rich Mixturre - Lesser power but lengthens the engine life by using more petrol)

 

Easier terms to understend, your spark plug head gives a good indication of your combustion ratio. Try removing it and see:-

 

- Very black with thick carbon coating at plug tip means - Your fuel is too much.

- Black plug tip - Still ok with a acceptable combustion ratio, fuel abit to much but ok.

- Brown plug tip - Perfecto, perfect combustion ratio between air and fuel mix (also gives the max combustion power out from the engine.)

- White plug tip - too much combustion air (waste of power and also can damage the engine if the plug is too white, hard to start engine also).

 

you seem to have done some good and practical stuffs to your bike. any idea what's the initial damage to fix up and change all those stuffs? for me, i just do basic only. change $10 EO and cheap spark plug, also don't know what brand. nothing else done unless my bike got some problems and the mech says my bike gotta change this or that. every month, i go shop ask if got any problem with my bike. they say ok. no problem. but i feel as if it's not shiok! still wondering if it's the quality of the bike or the condition of the bike.

Posted

talking about P200 fuel injection. has anyone ask UM when roughly they bringing in the p200 fuel injection.. gotta start to plan liao..

 

if UM really bring anytime soon, guess me replace my horse.. hee.

i've always aim at the p220 cos of the Fuel injection... and now knowing

p200 gonna be a Fi... hehe...

 

really really can't wait!!:angel:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3154/2630373527_9614b93b66_o.jpg
Posted
Yeah that one but the one I brought is slightly dirrerent from the picture in terms of packaging. The cable is a dual core channel type with silicone coating. You are right.

 

thnxs bro. but w do u fix it? can u give a sample pic?

http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/603859_3802371097427_2134347937_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/534363_3998392523188_157059301_n.jpg

Posted

Nemesis, how about organising a small get-together and collate the mods we wanna do? Perhaps can ask for small-bulk discount :)

 

i'm interested in changing spark plugs and cables. my NGK plugs used for about 10k mileage liao.

Posted
Oh yeah Lucky21, sorry for the air/fuel ratio question, I missed it. It is compilated. Ideal ratio is usually range from:-

 

Air:Fuel = 20:1 (Lean Mixture - More power but damage the engine faster)

to

Air:Fuel = 14:1 (Rich Mixturre - Lesser power but lengthens the engine life by using more petrol)

 

Easier terms to understend, your spark plug head gives a good indication of your combustion ratio. Try removing it and see:-

 

- Very black with thick carbon coating at plug tip means - Your fuel is too much.

- Black plug tip - Still ok with a acceptable combustion ratio, fuel abit to much but ok.

- Brown plug tip - Perfecto, perfect combustion ratio between air and fuel mix (also gives the max combustion power out from the engine.)

- White plug tip - too much combustion air (waste of power and also can damage the engine if the plug is too white, hard to start engine also).

 

so how u do get 20:1 and 14:1?

U quoted 4 ways to check if the combustion is at the optimum or worst stages of tunning. Can explain if u tuned ur bike after every plug change to get the optimum or otherwise?

Do you noe that the air:fuel ratio is independ for all bike or other stuff are related to the A/F ratio?

 

Changing to dual/twin core plug cable does increase the power i agree, but changing the plug, plug cable and the intensity of the power/electricity supplied to the plug does make it a risk for the piston head overheating. Ask experienced mechanics they will know the consequences.

 

May i question what is the TDC of the piston, CP and combustion temperature in the combustion chamber before all the mods are done and after.

 

Thanks.

Life Is Never Fair.

 

Some pple slog for the paper in their wallet.

Some slog to feed the paper to the pple w/o the wallet.

Posted
Nemesis, how about organising a small get-together and collate the mods we wanna do? Perhaps can ask for small-bulk discount :)

 

i'm interested in changing spark plugs and cables. my NGK plugs used for about 10k mileage liao.

 

Sure why not... u help me think think...

Regardless of race,religion and gender.

We sworn to our duty and honour.

We carry out our duty as a team and not indivdual.

We protect the Honour and interest of the TEAM.

Because,

We are all BIKERS

Posted
Oh yeah Lucky21, sorry for the air/fuel ratio question, I missed it. It is compilated. Ideal ratio is usually range from:-

 

Air:Fuel = 20:1 (Lean Mixture - More power but damage the engine faster)

to

Air:Fuel = 14:1 (Rich Mixturre - Lesser power but lengthens the engine life by using more petrol)

 

Easier terms to understend, your spark plug head gives a good indication of your combustion ratio. Try removing it and see:-

 

- Very black with thick carbon coating at plug tip means - Your fuel is too much.

- Black plug tip - Still ok with a acceptable combustion ratio, fuel abit to much but ok.

- Brown plug tip - Perfecto, perfect combustion ratio between air and fuel mix (also gives the max combustion power out from the engine.)

- White plug tip - too much combustion air (waste of power and also can damage the engine if the plug is too white, hard to start engine also).

 

How to tune air/fuel mixture. Can you take photo and explain to all of us/Pulsar rider.

It will be great info.:angel::thumb:

Posted (edited)

Confirm Date : 5th April 09

 

Time of meetup : 10am

 

Location for meetup : kranji MRT station at the MRT side...theres a small loadind/unloading area

 

Time of departure to JB : 1115am

Agenda:

 

1) A&W @ permas Jaya

 

2) Jusco (otot)

 

3) Permas Jaya's Nasi lemak

 

4) Wash bike session behind AGL(Depend on situation)

 

5) Back to Singapore

 

Confirmed going please put ur nick.

 

1)Nemesis

2)Susvespa

3)Lindavw

4)PokeVin

5) Sc Gaban (Usopp)

6)

7)

8)

9)

10)

Edited by Nemesis

Regardless of race,religion and gender.

We sworn to our duty and honour.

We carry out our duty as a team and not indivdual.

We protect the Honour and interest of the TEAM.

Because,

We are all BIKERS

Posted
ok boss :D

 

i think.. u should organise it :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

hmmm

 

HOw about after ur wedding ?

Regardless of race,religion and gender.

We sworn to our duty and honour.

We carry out our duty as a team and not indivdual.

We protect the Honour and interest of the TEAM.

Because,

We are all BIKERS

Posted

Confirm Date : 5th April 09

 

Time of meetup : 10am

 

Location for meetup : Yishun Dam

 

Time of departure to JB : 1115am

Agenda:

 

1) A&W @ permas Jaya

 

2) Jusco (otot)

 

3) Permas Jaya's Nasi lemak

 

4) Wash bike session behind AGL(Depend on situation)

 

5) Back to Singapore

 

Confirmed going please put ur nick.

 

1)Nemesis

2)Susvespa

3)Lindavw

4)Pokvin

5)SC Gaban (Usopp)

6)Breadman

7)

8)

9)

10)

Posted (edited)
so how u do get 20:1 and 14:1?

U quoted 4 ways to check if the combustion is at the optimum or worst stages of tunning. Can explain if u tuned ur bike after every plug change to get the optimum or otherwise?

Do you noe that the air:fuel ratio is independ for all bike or other stuff are related to the A/F ratio?

 

Changing to dual/twin core plug cable does increase the power i agree, but changing the plug, plug cable and the intensity of the power/electricity supplied to the plug does make it a risk for the piston head overheating. Ask experienced mechanics they will know the consequences.

 

May i question what is the TDC of the piston, CP and combustion temperature in the combustion chamber before all the mods are done and after.

 

Thanks.

 

1. 14:1 to 20:1? Simple, it all ends in the Hydrocarbon Chemistry. Calculations of C5 Hydrocarbon base petroluem what humans call it gasoline or petrol in Asia language. A A:F ratio is base on how much air is needed to mix with petrol to create a good combustion range.

 

2. Tuning - I travel for at least 100Km before I tune my A/F ratio by observing the plug there after. This apply on my old scrapped modified Honda CBX 200S. For new bikes fresh from the factory, it alrady has been tune to get the best optimum ratio, avoid personal tuning if not nessary. Carburator tuning and cleaning need some skill to attend to it.

 

3. Not all bike have the same A/F ratio, it depands on the engineer who design the engine and determine what is the best combustion ratio of the engine to run. but the range of 14:1 to 20:1 is always apply, even to other types of internal combustion engines like cars and vans(petrol engine only).

 

4. You are right worrying about piston overheating, like wise before doing something, think about the problem that can occour and the solution that can compensate the problem. That's why it takes me 2 months to do my home work before I modify my engines. You don't just go to any shop and modify the engine to increase power of save fuel comsumption right. Motorcycle is a rider investment.

 

5. Rules of tumb, modify engine or any other thing need some thinking and homework, don't just think about want to do it. Example, running cost, realibility, engine stress, fuel comsumption, battery consumption, expension and contraction of engine component, temperature and other thing to consider also.

 

6. Piston TDC - Top Dead Center: At the point where the piston is at the higest point of the combustion chamber just few miliseconds before the spark ingites the air fuel mixture which force the piston to move back down again and repeat the cycle.

 

7. Combustion tempurature in the cumbustion chamber can range from 460 to 750 degrees Celcus. But to get accurate reading you need a special device that can measure the temperature in the combustion chamber (device is very expensive, even I can't afford it. hahaha.

Edited by arifisa

2004-2006- KR150ZX *Stolen* :cry:

2006-2007- Honda CBX200S

2007-2013- Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-i UG3 and Honda CBR400RR-R (Both scrapped)

2013-current - Piaggio X10 350, 1996 Honda RVF400RT, 2003 Aprilia RS125 and 2003 Aprilia RS250 GP1.

Posted
thnxs bro. but w do u fix it? can u give a sample pic?

 

If I want to take a picture, I have to remove the tank again. Lazy ah. But if you still want the picture wait till I buy a new P200 Fi. ok remind me....:(

2004-2006- KR150ZX *Stolen* :cry:

2006-2007- Honda CBX200S

2007-2013- Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-i UG3 and Honda CBR400RR-R (Both scrapped)

2013-current - Piaggio X10 350, 1996 Honda RVF400RT, 2003 Aprilia RS125 and 2003 Aprilia RS250 GP1.

Posted
1. 14:1 to 20:1? Simple, it all ends in the Hydrocarbon Chemistry. Calculations of C5 Hydrocarbon base petroluem what humans call it gasoline or petrol in Asia language. A A:F ratio is base on how much air is needed to mix with petrol to create a good combustion range.

 

2. Tuning - I travel for at least 100Km before I tune my A/F ratio by observing the plug there after. This apply on my old scrapped modified Honda CBX 200S. For new bikes fresh from the factory, it alrady has been tune to get the best optimum ratio, avoid personal tuning if not nessary. Carburator tuning and cleaning need some skill to attend to it.

 

3. Not all bike have the same A/F ratio, it depands on the engineer who design the engine and determine what is the best combustion ratio of the engine to run. but the range of 14:1 to 20:1 is always apply, even to other types of internal combustion engines like cars and vans(petrol engine only).

 

4. You are right worrying about piston overheating, like wise before doing something, think about the problem that can occour and the solution that can compensate the problem. That's why it takes me 2 months to do my home work before I modify my engines. You don't just go to any shop and modify the engine to increase power of save fuel comsumption right. Motorcycle is a rider investment.

 

5. Rules of tumb, modify engine or any other thing need some thinking and homework, don't just think about want to do it. Example, running cost, realibility, engine stress, fuel comsumption, battery consumption, expension and contraction of engine component, temperature and other thing to consider also.

 

6. Piston TDC - Top Dead Center: At the point where the piston is at the higest point of the combustion chamber just few miliseconds before the spark ingites the air fuel mixture which force the piston to move back down again and repeat the cycle.

 

7. Combustion tempurature in the cumbustion chamber can range from 460 to 750 degrees Celcus. But to get accurate reading you need a special device that can measure the temperature in the combustion chamber (device is very expensive, even I can't afford it. hahaha.

 

Wah bro are u a mechanic?

Cause you sound like one...

kekeke...

Posted
If I want to take a picture, I have to remove the tank again. Lazy ah. But if you still want the picture wait till I buy a new P200 Fi. ok remind me....:(

 

 

me can't wait for p200 Fi.....:(

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3154/2630373527_9614b93b66_o.jpg
Posted
I suggest the meet up at kranji MRT station at the MRT side...theres a small loadind/unloading area after the bus stop to park our bike

 

ok done... change already

Regardless of race,religion and gender.

We sworn to our duty and honour.

We carry out our duty as a team and not indivdual.

We protect the Honour and interest of the TEAM.

Because,

We are all BIKERS

Posted
Spark can cost from $8 (cheap copper plug 2mm) to a expensive $35 (0.7mm Iridium Racing Sperk Plug). I recommend a Platinum 0.9mm spark plug, due to it's slightly stronger spark and lifespan of the Platinum Element. Usually Platinum base cost aroung $10-$20. A low resistance spark cable usually cost aroung $35-$65. $65 is the one which I brought and install it myself.

 

The way you ride is also important when come into speed and pick up. Tire pressure need to be higher by 2-6psi for the rear tyre if you are going to pillion a passenger. I usually ride at night, this also contribute to higher milage.

 

What Nemesis ment if I am not wrong is by taking care of the exhaust external, black exhaust tend to rust and turn orange due to water and oxygen in the air we breathe. This is normal as pipes usually make of carbon steel (usually small bikes and stock exhaust). Usually rider take it out and spray it black to minimise the rusting of pipe external. Depand on the skill level of the rider who take care of his/her bike.

 

If you are skill enough. You can even maintain the exhaust pipe on your own by doing yourself without going to the shop to do it for you. Like taking it out clean it (externals) and spray it with high temperature spray paint.

 

Thanks for the explanation. :)

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