Modifications (DIY and low costs)

[snowparang]

Here's a video of my bike's weird electrical problem:

 

 

Still unable to trace the fault. Only establish certain link between headlight and right signal. But why does it occur only AFTER some time? Heat?

[vfrT]

Here's a video of my bike's weird electrical problem:

 

 

Still unable to trace the fault. Only establish certain link between headlight and right signal. But why does it occur only AFTER some time? Heat?

 

The clip is excellent and a great way to get a million words across!

 

As to why it occurs after some time, I did not mention that on a few occasions before my rectifier completely died, the bike would not restart with the starter button after extended ride (in Johor); it finally died (somewhere in Johor, Senai) on a separate occasion. Why am I saying this? cos I have no problems up to then when the bike is ridden in Sg ie short rides.

The rectifier gets very hot when the bike is in operation , and due to its location (in the FI) it tends to burn out. The location on the vTec is improved but the heat remains especially in prolonged ride & stop and go traffic in Sg. I now wire up a fan to cool it.

 

Yr video clip did not say if you replaced the rectifier and seeing as the voltage output is only 12.2V , I'd wager that the rectifier is on the blink

[snowparang]

The clip is excellent and a great way to get a million words across!

 

As to why it occurs after some time, I did not mention that on a few occasions before my rectifier completely died, the bike would not restart with the starter button after extended ride (in Johor); it finally died (somewhere in Johor, Senai) on a separate occasion. Why am I saying this? cos I have no problems up to then when the bike is ridden in Sg ie short rides.

The rectifier gets very hot when the bike is in operation , and due to its location (in the FI) it tends to burn out. The location on the vTec is improved but the heat remains especially in prolonged ride & stop and go traffic in Sg. I now wire up a fan to cool it.

 

Yr video clip did not say if you replaced the rectifier and seeing as the voltage output is only 12.2V , I'd wager that the rectifier is on the blink

Hi,

 

I didn't replace the rectifier (though it's less than a year old). However, the video is shot when the bike is NOT running. I assume in this case the RR is not actually operating i.e. all power is from the battery. That is why I was quite convinced it's not the RR. The battery voltage is 14.1V when the bike is running.

 

Perhaps I should disconnect the RR and try to duplicate the problem?

[vfrT]

Hi,

 

I didn't replace the rectifier (though it's less than a year old). However, the video is shot when the bike is NOT running. I assume in this case the RR is not actually operating i.e. all power is from the battery. That is why I was quite convinced it's not the RR. The battery voltage is 14.1V when the bike is running.

 

Perhaps I should disconnect the RR and try to duplicate the problem?

 

Haha, I admire & sympathise with you. Weeding out electrical gremlins needs lots of tender loving patience and you seem to have truck loads of it. What I proposed is aimed at minimising replacement cost and DIY labour as far as possible. In the end it could be unavoidable.

 

Another thing you could do is to improve the connectivity of all connectors. I read in another forum (R1 forum) about the use of dielectric silicone grease to exclude moisture and humidity to improve current flow. This will prevent corrosion and reduce current loss and heat build up at poorly connected points such as that connector that melted. You might want to try it

Also, take out all the fuse that protect the lighting and signal circuit, clean it up and replace. If you have it, apply the dielectric silicone grease and replace. Note: Electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. WD40 is a good dielectric which you can shoot into yr signal switch nacelle and work it for say 20 times and shoot again to flush out corrosive agents & gunk etc.

 

For more on this >> http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39926 or google dielectric grease.

[vfrT]

Is it 7mm after the fork ring marking?I might want to try that.

 

So how James, did u try it?

[James996]

So how James, did u try it?

 

Not yet.This few days weather are horrible,so its no ride for the VFR.Thinking of going to shop change oil and ask them to lower it for me.

 

I did that for my previous rides before and it really improve the handling esp for the TDM(lower 1/2 inch).

 

I had up the handle to the end of the forks to ease the riding posture.It seems to help a little bit...will try your setting soon...

[vfrT]

 

I had up the handle to the end of the forks to ease the riding posture.It seems to help a little bit.

 

Ya I did that too It retain the original handle to seat relationship.

[James996]

I found an interesting debate over VFRD over the surging issues..

 

Some said its the stacks configuration in the air box...

 

Some said its both front short,both rear tall.Some said its front left short,front right tall,etc.

 

The service manual photos looks llike its front left short,front right tall.

 

I had checked mine last night,its in the both front short configuration.So I change it to the front left short,front right.

 

Will have a short ride later and see gt any improvement.

[James996]

 

Ya I did that too It retain the original handle to seat relationship.

 

Yo dude,

Check with you,when you drop the front forks,how do you up the handle bar to end of the forks? There will be a gap,you added spaces?

[vfrT]

Yo dude,

Check with you,when you drop the front forks,how do you up the handle bar to end of the forks? There will be a gap,you added spaces?

 

Actually, I drop the triple clamps, not the fork. The fork will now stick out of the handle clamps if it were to be mated to the top triple clamp. However, to maintain the original seat-to-handle-height relationship, the bars need to be raised to the top of the fork - ie banged up against the stop ring at the top of the tube. This is the gap I think you refer to. No shims needed. Just tighten the bar clamps as per normal and you're done.

[James996]

Actually, I drop the triple clamps, not the fork. The fork will now stick out of the handle clamps if it were to be mated to the top triple clamp. However, to maintain the original seat-to-handle-height relationship, the bars need to be raised to the top of the fork - ie banged up against the stop ring at the top of the tube. This is the gap I think you refer to. No shims needed. Just tighten the bar clamps as per normal and you're done.

 

Ya,man.You get what I mean...abit layman terms.

 

Oic,so there will be a gap / space between the triple clamps and handle clamps.

 

Ok,will do that next week before the national day ride.Thanks.

 

Anyway,how you change yor front forks oil and seals/dust cover before?Whats the damage?Which shop?

[vfrT]

 

Anyway,how you change yor front forks oil and seals/dust cover before?Whats the damage?Which shop?

 

Fork oil change: DIY - Not too difficult, abt 45 mins job. cost $12 for fork fluid and elbow grease. But emminently satisfying. If you need details, let me know cos its quite a mouthful.

 

Fork seal: DIY Not advisable unless you got a air wrench to release the damper bolt at the base of the slider. I learnt this the hard way and stripped the head, costing me an expensive lesson.

My cost if done at shop(Nov 2006) at Fasttrack: For one side only due to above lesson . Seal:$24w fork fluid:$12 Labour: $65 , To extract and replace stripped damper bolt - priceless (nahh.. $45)

[James996]

Actually, I drop the triple clamps, not the fork. The fork will now stick out of the handle clamps if it were to be mated to the top triple clamp. However, to maintain the original seat-to-handle-height relationship, the bars need to be raised to the top of the fork - ie banged up against the stop ring at the top of the tube. This is the gap I think you refer to. No shims needed. Just tighten the bar clamps as per normal and you're done.

 

Just did this mod today...

 

Now for the test ride tomorrow to Penang...

[sino74]

no mod yet..

but definetely will look for ex-viffer sayhirojason

to help install fan over rectifier as per his advice.

[SiaoSter]

Here's a peep at what the front end now looks like:

 

Very nicely done !

 

Btw , any idea where to get the carbon fibre fender shown in the pic ?

 

Been trying to source for carbon fiber parts for VFR but don't seem to exist at all

[snowparang]

Very nicely done !

 

Btw , any idea where to get the carbon fibre fender shown in the pic ?

 

Been trying to source for carbon fiber parts for VFR but don't seem to exist at all

if the forks are not from the VFR, then the fender isn't... The fender should be for RC51, where the forks comes from.

[SiaoSter]

if the forks are not from the VFR, then the fender isn't... The fender should be for RC51, where the forks comes from.

 

Stopid me...why didnt i think of it..

[BlackBandit]

James,

Got a question for you. I just removed my airbox snorkel (or duct). The intake sound is now orgasmicly loud and I can feel a difference when the VTEC is engaged. However, is there any worry about water seeping into the airbox? Rainy season so a bit concerned.

[angeldogleslie]

I'm not sure where the airbox snorkel is but i'm sure the airbox in the first place is well protected from the elements of nature. The snorkel is just to help pass emission tests right?

 

Anyway i was thinking of this idea to cool the R/R instead of mounting a fan, cus i used to ride a motard and many of the riders cut this circular holes on the side of the bike where the air filter is to help increase the airflow.

 

Imagine a circle in your side, with a wire-mesh as first layer, a thick but air permeable sponge as second layer to filter out the quality of air going in.

 

So i thought this would be a try-able idea instead of a fan, cus i thought installing a fan would be troublesome especially the wiring part. Apologies but pls pardon my ignorance on electrical and mechanical stuffs haha.

 

Just my inputs

[BlackBandit]

leslie,

The airbox snorkel (or duct as referred to in parts catalogue) basically directs the a from a lower angle up into the airbox. Removing it leaves a slightly exposed airbox intake. It does not have anything to do with emissions.

http://img135.imagevenue.com/loc1172/th_72171_Airbox_122_1172lo.jpg

 

The R/R is basically on your frame on the right side. I doubt drilling holes will improve anything cos that would mean drilling on your top cowl. A fan might do away with drilling on your precious plasticwork.

[greysnail]

HI bro Bandit,sorry to intrude on the interesting topic but isn't the snorkel's purpose is to ramfeed the air to the airfilter.as previously on ur ride of the BB,removing the snorkel would only add-up turbulance and not fastflowing the cold air to be channel to the filter.Simulated scenario-Scuba diving with the snorkel not on the face but breathing the bubbles only.Once again sorry for the intrusion.

[BlackBandit]

HI bro Bandit,sorry to intrude on the interesting topic but isn't the snorkel's purpose is to ramfeed the air to the airfilter.as previously on ur ride of the BB,removing the snorkel would only add-up turbulance and not fastflowing the cold air to be channel to the filter.Simulated scenario-Scuba diving with the snorkel not on the face but breathing the bubbles only.Once again sorry for the intrusion.

 

Where got intrusion, geng. You're definitely helpful here..

 

Anyhow, the snorkel/duct opening is directed slightly downwards to pass under the frame. However, it is still pointing downwards so I'm not so sure if sufficient air is really ramfed inside although I agree that the duct itself will eliminate turbulence.

 

I wouldn't mind leaving it out cos I love the louder sound. Only concern is the element issues. Is there a possibility of water seeping in? James suggested putting up a mesh cover. Maybe I could get a spare duct and shorten it enough to allow some degree of protection?

[vfrT]

 

Anyway i was thinking of this idea to cool the R/R instead of mounting a fan, cus i used to ride a motard and many of the riders cut this circular holes on the side of the bike where the air filter is to help increase the airflow.

 

Imagine a circle in your side, with a wire-mesh as first layer, a thick but air permeable sponge as second layer to filter out the quality of air going in.

 

So i thought this would be a try-able idea instead of a fan, cus i thought installing a fan would be troublesome especially the wiring part. Apologies but pls pardon my ignorance on electrical and mechanical stuffs haha.

 

Just my inputs

 

The fan mod is effective when the bike is stationary ie there is no air stream to cool it down. Once the bike is moving, the air stream is enough to cool the RR. Hence yr holes in fairing wont be necessary.

 

I use a $5 fan (and 15 mins work)in mine and has no fried RR since.

 

cheers

[James996]

James,

Got a question for you. I just removed my airbox snorkel (or duct). The intake sound is now orgasmicly loud and I can feel a difference when the VTEC is engaged. However, is there any worry about water seeping into the airbox? Rainy season so a bit concerned.

 

Water will not get in cause its protected by the frame,tank,etc.Unless you really suan.Mine went thru countless bikewashes,really bad storms when riding up north,no problem.

[James996]

Where got intrusion, geng. You're definitely helpful here..

 

Anyhow, the snorkel/duct opening is directed slightly downwards to pass under the frame. However, it is still pointing downwards so I'm not so sure if sufficient air is really ramfed inside although I agree that the duct itself will eliminate turbulence.

 

I wouldn't mind leaving it out cos I love the louder sound. Only concern is the element issues. Is there a possibility of water seeping in? James suggested putting up a mesh cover. Maybe I could get a spare duct and shorten it enough to allow some degree of protection?

 

I put mesh cause i want to keep out the dirts,leaves,insects.