Jump to content
SingaporeBikes.com Telegram Now LIVE! Join NOW for the Last Reviews, News, Promotions & Offers in Singapore! ×
  • Join SingaporeBikes.com today! Where Singapore Bikers Unite!

    Thank you for visiting SingaporeBikes.com - the largest website in Singapore dedicated to all things related to motorcycles and biking in general.

    Join us today as a member to enjoy all the features of the website for FREE such as:

    Registering is free and takes less than 30 seconds! Join us today to share information, discuss about your modifications, and ask questions about your bike in general.

    Thank you for being a part of SingaporeBikes.com!

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

 

Can someone advise me if the method I sent for servicing is correct?

Every 6 mth or mileage of 6000km, I will change Denso $8 Spark plug and Motul 5100 engine oil.

 

Is it gd or bad?

S4 Spec3 Aug 2007 - Mar 2010

GSR400 July 2010 - Oct 2011

  • Replies 980
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted
bro i got the same prob too ... y ah .. sian leh .. only the speedo rite ... the rpm still ok .. anyone out there ???? btw mine spec 3 fy plate oso ..

 

yup only e speedo........

sad....

CB400 spec1....

X9 180cc;

Honda Phantom TA200;

Honda EX5;

Posted

anyone done ignition advancer on their bike and where got sell bleed nipple cover for the brake?Thnx

WR200

CB400

CB400 spec3

CB400 Ver S

Posted

Hi bros,

Is there any way to take out the ECU for the HISS. Im feel that it doesnt make much use as I have alarm. If lost key need to spend alot of money some more. Anyone done it can advice the cost + shop?

 

Secondly, is it possible to 'program' the VTEC to open later?

Posted

Hi

 

does anyone know whether where got sell front fork stiffness adjustor (the knobs that can control the stiffness of the forks) like the ones that are on revo? btw its for spec 1.

 

also does anyone here service their front forks by themselves? i need to know how much fork oil must i put inside. and where can i buy the recommended fork oil (and how much if u knw as well) .

 

thanks and haf a gd day ahead

Posted

Hi,

 

say the idling is set at 1rpm, but the needle goes up n down ard 1rpm. Does that mean unstable idling? if so, carbs out of tune????

 

Occassionally, while stopped at junctions, i smelt faint hint of petrol. Does this mean the 'petrol needles'(hokkien-direct translated) are worn out?

 

Thanks.

Posted
Hi,

 

say the idling is set at 1rpm, but the needle goes up n down ard 1rpm. Does that mean unstable idling? if so, carbs out of tune????

 

Occassionally, while stopped at junctions, i smelt faint hint of petrol. Does this mean the 'petrol needles'(hokkien-direct translated) are worn out?

 

Thanks.

 

Some up and down is normal but shall not be more than 100 rpm :cool:

Posted

helo bros,

 

well for me i normally will change my e/o wif a new oil filter for every 5000km. i will change my plugs together with my e/o and a new oil filter when i reach my 10000km...

Posted

will changing eo, spark plug, oil filter, service air filter and flush coolant improve fc? sorry for a noob question but very curious. coz heard frm ppl say if not to the last extend dun service carb ar? den will doing all these help in FC? coz mine tyres pump air, chain also tighten and lube, fc still jialat. 15litre= max just hit 300 once. the rest is all between 270-290. pls comment. thanks

Posted

In view of my tankslapping incident... I really wonder if tyre balancing is really crucial to the balancing of the bike... Can anyone help us on this? I believe this will be a good read for all Super 4 owners! :thumb:

Biking is something that everyone can learn and enjoy! :goodluck:

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp344/s4dreamer/Laos%20n%20Cambodia%20Trip%2011%20to%2028%20May%202009/Poipet-Cambodia1.jpg

Posted
will changing eo, spark plug, oil filter, service air filter and flush coolant improve fc? sorry for a noob question but very curious. coz heard frm ppl say if not to the last extend dun service carb ar? den will doing all these help in FC? coz mine tyres pump air, chain also tighten and lube, fc still jialat. 15litre= max just hit 300 once. the rest is all between 270-290. pls comment. thanks

 

No..one question though..how do you ride your bike?

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hi,

 

say the idling is set at 1rpm, but the needle goes up n down ard 1rpm. Does that mean unstable idling? if so, carbs out of tune????

 

Occassionally, while stopped at junctions, i smelt faint hint of petrol. Does this mean the 'petrol needles'(hokkien-direct translated) are worn out?

 

Thanks.

 

Either your fuel kork is leaking slighly or the float tempoarily stuck and petrol is sipping out the carbs overflow/drain tubings. There are 4 of them..one for each carb.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

>>does anyone know whether where got sell front fork stiffness adjustor (the knobs that can control the stiffness of the forks) like the ones that are on revo? btw its for spec 1.

 

Go to Teck Thye at Bradell road. He knows.

 

>>also does anyone here service their front forks by themselves? i need to know how much fork oil must i put inside. and where can i buy the recommended fork oil (and how much if u knw as well) .

 

450cc to 490cc..max 500cc. PJ racing fork oil...1 litre I think...$18 to $20+. Look for "Rush" (Indian boss)..shop is opposite Ban Hong work shop at AMK Industrial Park 2.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
anyone done ignition advancer on their bike and where got sell bleed nipple cover for the brake?Thnx

 

Go get those air pump transparent hose from aquriumn shop..1 meter 30 to 50 cents only. One end to the nipple and the other end to a small plastic ball..those that wet market use for 10 fishballs packing. Poke a small hole at the top of this plastic back while the tube is secure with a rubber back. There u go...home made practical brake nipple bleeder under 90 cents.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hi all,

 

Can someone advise me if the method I sent for servicing is correct?

Every 6 mth or mileage of 6000km, I will change Denso $8 Spark plug and Motul 5100 engine oil.

 

Is it gd or bad?

 

No such rules..just for reference maybe. Here's why:

 

** In 6 months you said but what if in that 6 months you don't used as much the bike?

 

** 6000km you said but what style of riding? If you race your bike often at 100/120 kn/hr for 6000km, its different if you ride at average 90km/hr. The rate of frequency change is dictated by such. If you go Pasir Gulang (example) and play track..you have to change by 3000km.

 

Then what should you do if ride style varies from time to time in one single oi change. Well..learn to feel if the engine is rough and that there is this feeling of oil is becoming light and watery. The best is have the feel of new oil next time while you change and take out some sample from your old oil and feel the thickness difference..its vicosity you are feeling between your finger and thumb.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
In view of my tankslapping incident... I really wonder if tyre balancing is really crucial to the balancing of the bike... Can anyone help us on this? I believe this will be a good read for all Super 4 owners! :thumb:

 

You be wasting ur time and money balancing bike wheels unless you are a pro racer for the day. Is your tyre up to speed spec or how fast can your bike provide what the tyre can handle.

 

Tyre balancing is usually most usefully done when changing to a new set of tyres but the so call balance will be usless after your tyre is half worn or the next time you change another brand of tyres. In short..no need lah for day to day routine use and that occassional session of chasing a R1.:angel:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Repeated Post.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

my riding style is quite relax already. 1st gear abt 3.5 - 4 will change den from 2nd gears onwards will be at 4k change le. fc still like tat. or u think i shd be servicing my carb??

Posted
my riding style is quite relax already. 1st gear abt 3.5 - 4 will change den from 2nd gears onwards will be at 4k change le. fc still like tat. or u think i shd be servicing my carb??

 

That's the problem. Don't change gear too soon.

 

Try doing 1st gear up to 6-8k not whack!...just progress gradually)..if urs is vtec let it come thru..2nd gear same thing, 3rd gear same thing and so on depend on traffic situation but do regulate with the flow. When you have speed..and say about 35 to 80 meters away,there are stationary traffics ahead..clutch in and let the bike roll, don't everytime do engine braking..as you slow down..go fiddle down your gearing to prepare for a stop.

 

Have your idle above 1krpm..set at 1.2k is about best...so when start/stop riding..you don't 'load' the bike...as to do away with inertia and to gain momentum.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

ok understood. will try. but i thot open vtec will consume more petrol?

 

i everytime also let the bike roll to reduce fc.

 

 

dun quite understand....when start/stop riding..you don't 'load' the bike...as to do away with inertia and to gain momentum.

 

my rpm set at ard 1.2 after warm engine for abt4-5 minutes. but after riding to my destination abt 10km, it will be ard 1.4. so which is better? to reduce?

 

really thank you for the tips shared just got my vtec 3 few weeks ago. sorry

Posted
my rpm set at ard 1.2 after warm engine for abt4-5 minutes. but after riding to my destination abt 10km, it will be ard 1.4. so which is better? to reduce?

 

No..don't change anything. that's find. If all esles failed..its time to adopt liquid ebngineering. Need to cleanse your valves and combustion chambers thru use of fuel additive. You may oso want to try "friction eliminator' an additive to your eo.

 

the other thing like to know is that, when you rev hard in stationary status..is there black smoke from your exhaust..if so, rev a few to your highest rpm (gradually...not whack) and hold a sec or 2 to clear your exhaust..till no more black smoke or soot coming out of your exhaust.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

but i think need change my eo all tat le. when i sit on top bike i see the glass no eo at all. must slant to my right abit den got something. bikeshop tell mi its enough. sh1t lor.

 

ya there was once i blow got black smoke. ok tml morning after warming up engine will rev till no more black smoke. really gratful ahpek. thanks alot.

Posted

every morning i also need crank abt 4 times to start my bike. issit spark plug? onli morning 1st time i start den need. i try pulling the choke totally cannot pull out. how come huh

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

  • DAIS_ShellBAU2024_Motorcycle_SingaporeBikesBanner_300x250.jpg

     
×
×
  • Create New...