[Archive] [Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2008

[ahlexsgbikes]

like what i said, i change the carbon starter and starter relay

[bernardk]

but your battery weak or zero then how???

[Ah Pek]

pek, u using the same battery also ah?

 

Alamak!...sorry mannn!...missed out your question (sometimes I don't get @mail notice for threads I subscribed). No..am not using YTX7A-BS ..its too low for current load demand if you have electric horns, alarm..and other extra gagets that you may have installed. See what I mean if you are on high beam, have to brake and horn at the same time.

 

Having YTX7A-BS when charge gets to the full rate better but its only 6AH (not 7 as the model number indicates)..taht's 6 Amperes (unit measurement for current) per hour.

 

These days..its YTX9A-BS (original) and if its standard in all S4 or not, am not sure but initially, mine was YTX8AH-BS..but am using YTX9AH now. Wish I can get a YTX14A-BS though. Current is one thing but the dimension to fit in the battery copmpartment MUST BE :

 

150mm in Length

87mm in Width

105mm in Height

 

Anyway..this original battery cost only $68...DIY.

[ahlexsgbikes]

eh for that i have a volt meter and the voltage is normal...

 

haiz... so frustrating... been sending my bike to the bike shop again and again and i need the bike to bring me around so much...

 

= (

[arsonist]

hello

 

anyone spec 1 is using brembo calipers from verS? i want to get from my fren his verS calipers but im not sure will it fit to spec 1 just plug and play? need ur advice pls especially those who have done b4 ( i asked i-ride-a-bike he say hes not using this set up ahpek)

 

also, using hel brake hose isit universal can be used on the brembo caliper? isit best if i buy the caliper service kit for verS calipers and service the caliper (and change the rubber O-rings thingy) 1st b4 installing?

 

thanks for any advice

[Ah Pek]

hello

 

anyone spec 1 is using brembo calipers from verS? i want to get from my fren his verS calipers but im not sure will it fit to spec 1 just plug and play? need ur advice pls especially those who have done b4 ( i asked i-ride-a-bike he say hes not using this set up ahpek)

 

also, using hel brake hose isit universal can be used on the brembo caliper? isit best if i buy the caliper service kit for verS calipers and service the caliper (and change the rubber O-rings thingy) 1st b4 installing?

 

thanks for any advice

 

My apology... may be mistaken for S4vtec..pm Thomas and check with him. I know someone out there did..too many riders I met like eata lot od sontong like that.

[ShootMie]

Last time i kena like u before. Found out that the connector at the battery there.. a "strand" of the copper wire touches the other connector (i dunno how to describe it in words) therefore when i try to start, got click click sound.

 

What i do is i unscrew the connectors, bind the copper wires neatly and screw back. Done liow can start. (this is found at the sidebox, not the starter)

 

Like what s4vtec says, maybe due to the connector oxidation.

[rayhunter]

Alamak!...sorry mannn!...missed out your question (sometimes I don't get @mail notice for threads I subscribed). No..am not using YTX7A-BS ..its too low for current load demand if you have electric horns, alarm..and other extra gagets that you may have installed. See what I mean if you are on high beam, have to brake and horn at the same time.

 

Having YTX7A-BS when charge gets to the full rate better but its only 6AH (not 7 as the model number indicates)..taht's 6 Amperes (unit measurement for current) per hour.

 

These days..its YTX9A-BS (original) and if its standard in all S4 or not, am not sure but initially, mine was YTX8AH-BS..but am using YTX9AH now. Wish I can get a YTX14A-BS though. Current is one thing but the dimension to fit in the battery copmpartment MUST BE :

 

150mm in Length

87mm in Width

105mm in Height

 

Anyway..this original battery cost only $68...DIY.

 

went to bikeshop only got this model (YTX7A-BS) I think there is also a honda logo and made in japan and the size is just right as the original battery and am able to sit in the compartment..so no choice have to get this..but was charge $98 for it.

[rayhunter]

eh for that i have a volt meter and the voltage is normal...

 

haiz... so frustrating... been sending my bike to the bike shop again and again and i need the bike to bring me around so much...

 

= (

 

wonder if i'm right but sometimes voltmeter cannot rely on too much..days ago,my battery just died on me and have to push bike to bikeshop under the rain to change it,luckily the shop is about 150m away.and before that all my reading from my voltmeter acted normal.....

[Waffles]

wah $90

GA motor $20 lol.

[TitanicLexus]

wah $90

GA motor $20 lol.

 

Bro, u r sure the $20 buck one at GA motor got anti-glare one? If have, u help me buy 3 pairs and i give u $60 buck ok? LOL.... i saw the same outlook mirror as mine, but pls note the mirror colour, if there is blue colour one which is anti-glare effect, if dun have, tat is juz a normal mirror....

 

I do asked other bike shop b4 and they oso tell me the price is market price lor... maybe the price now is slightly drop liao... i still looking tis kind of anti-glare effect mirror with cheaper abi one lor.....

[Waffles]

$20 normal 1 la

didnt know u looking for tinted

[ahlexsgbikes]

fixed liao... something to do with wiring la...

 

hopefully no problem liao...

 

spend alot of money and end up is wiring problem sian half...

[rayhunter]

fixed liao... something to do with wiring la...

 

hopefully no problem liao...

 

spend alot of money and end up is wiring problem sian half...

 

same workshop who spotted rectify the problem or u went to another one?

[Advrider]

.........................................

[TripleOneZero]

guys, i gonna change my rear brake pad soon.. any gd brand, price n place to change? thx

[Hellevate]

>>1) chain slack is perfect as i just changed to a DID x-ring and have been religiously lubricating it

 

Ok...void.

 

>>2)...biting point is a comfortable distance for me and doesn't feel that it has changed much from when i first rode the bike. the only major change is that clutch free play has increased. ..

 

U hve 2 decide..either comfortable or irritation with gear shifting. The latter is more important as we are talking about having the clutch plates playing right.

 

 

>>3) ..i use maxima ultra's 5w50 oil. it's a thinner 50 oil unlike maxima extra's 15w50. i was hoping to get a good balance of a revvy 40 oil with the smoothness of a 50 oil. should i make any changes?

 

Ur machine is still very new..stick to what you r having..or use 10/40w..that's what I would used if that was my machine. In our tropical humid region..we don't need "W" or "5W"..even the coldest night rain till the chilling morning..10W works great..and if you have premixed something like green oil in your fuel..its even better (works like 2T bikes engine in you first firng of engibne..cyclinder sleeve is 'lube').

 

>>4) no additives wotsoever. only additives are in fuel

 

Hope its the right stuff though.

 

>>5) should have no problem trying this. but fuel consumption will rise right?

 

Right..there is no compromising here. Increase in power recipocate to increase in fc.

 

>>lol... this is where i'd also like to ask. S4 riders in here tend to advise against revving too high as it'd be deemed harmful (dragging ur rpm) plus i guess more importantly, increases FC.

 

Reving the bike for no reason is one thing, whacking or racing a bike is another and dragging your bike to hi rpm is using it for what its build for. We are not talking about a bike that annot handle it. Honda don't call it "Super" for mnothing. Go ahead..make the engine scream..it begs for it.

 

>>yet from my understanding, the S4 is a high revving machine and operates well at higher revs instead of keeping them low.. right? so i'm curious to know how upshifting at higher rpms help...

 

Cleaner chamber and used best for what the bike is build for. Ppl who ride S4 and want to save fuel..I can't help and I always asked myself why you the rider own an S4 for.

 

>>if it's good for the health of the bike, i will stop at no expense to adopt wotever practices neccessary!

 

To stay in peak and have performance yet stay reliable..have X-1R in eo, green oil in fuel, proper correct grounding, install a Power Charger..the rest are jsut about general.

 

hi ah pek! i'm back...

 

1. void

 

2. my clutch plates feel about the same as when i first rode the bike. (either still the same or i got used to it as it slowly changes). either way, the biting point comes in around halfway (or slightly more) of the whole clutch movement. if i don't clutch in, i hear a slight rumbling sound in the clutch housing. if i clutch in, the sound will decrease to a slight ticking for a 1 or 2 secs before totally disappearing (except engine sound of course). freeplay has naturally increased from when it was brand new. if i decrease freeplay, then i have to let the clutch out more for the bike to move. if i increase freeplay, i only need to let the clutch out less before reaching biting point. so which is 'correct' for the clutch to engage optimally?

 

3. initially i wanted to use 10w40. wanted to use a 40 oil as it's recommended for the S4 it seems. but my mech says, get a 50 oil as it protects better. so the first time i converted to synthetic, i used maxima Extra's 50 oil (15w50). ok bike rides like a dream. cos maybe the oil is thick and lubes the engine parts nicely. so next full flush, my backside was itchy and so i wanted to try a 'higher grade' of EO. so i tried maxima's Ultra (cos it's supposedly a more 'premium' grade and better than the Extra series.

 

but some slight research seem to say that these 'premium grade' oils are thinner than their 'slightly lower grade counterparts of the same viscosity. for both maxima's Ultra and Motul's 300v. meaning, Ultra's 50 is not the same as Extra's 50. it is actually thinner. i took this info to mean that if i got Ultra 50, it'd be thinner than an Extra 50 yet abit thicker than a Extra 40. (a nice balance lah or so i thought). i hope i've made the right choice. if not, i'll just downgrade to Extra 10w40 the next full oil change.

 

also ur suggestion to put X1R into as an EO additive is a little confusing as i read the label on the bottle and it says it's a fuel additive...

 

4. i use FP60... to be honest, i only felt the effects the first coupla days. after which, the performance as so-so. no significant improvements. FC also actually dropped a little.

 

5. no issue. to speak the truth, i actually change gears at 5k+rpm and not at 4-5 as stated earlier. (in case kena flak, ppl think i like to drag and waste my fc) and i actually prefer it that way, to change at 5k+ as the engine sounds right. i dunno how ppl can change around 4 every time as the bike will sputter and it just sounds asthmatic and painful. (no offense to

 

i will check out green oil. about grounding, i've been told that since my bike is new, there isn't a need for grounding.. true or not? also, i've had revtec installed before but i took it out after my mech advised against using cos he said its LED light drained my stock batt. i've since changed to a new batt and i am revtec-less. was thinking of getting power abuser which promises better results and it doesn't have LEDs. recommended?

 

sorry for my lengthy post!

[arsonist]

i think u see different x1r one, its engine treatment for engine oil one.

 

for revtec, shouldnt be a problem la the led light as long as u always use ur bike and not park it for weeks one.

 

which version of power abuser are u planning to get? as for grounding i think its better to do it, dun care new bike or old. but in the end its up to u whether want to do up ur bike or not.

[arsonist]

on a different note, does anyone here know any website that can order s4 parts cosmetics or performance parts? pls giv a reliable website that we can use. if dun want to post here can pm me oso

 

many thanks in advance

[HondaSP]

i thought when u rev toward 4~5k rpm change gear the gear is at the peak ofjus nice ??

cos when u change gear there will be a loud tak sound when ur spd and gear ratio is not appropriate.

[Ah Pek]

i thought when u rev toward 4~5k rpm change gear the gear is at the peak ofjus nice ??

cos when u change gear there will be a loud tak sound when ur spd and gear ratio is not appropriate.

 

Currently my gear set is front 15 and back 44 and I max at 1st gear to 10-11k rpm :0) and on the average 8-10k rpm. If back is 42..pick-up is is slightly slower but can drag more.

[Ah Pek]

i think u see different x1r one, its engine treatment for engine oil one.

 

for revtec, shouldnt be a problem la the led light as long as u always use ur bike and not park it for weeks one.

 

which version of power abuser are u planning to get? as for grounding i think its better to do it, dun care new bike or old. but in the end its up to u whether want to do up ur bike or not.

 

Thanks for the putting the info right about X-1R. Not sure which X-1R that has premix for fuel though.

 

Yes..the LED power comsumption is negligible...months oso no problems.

 

Its is true of grounding for new bike to have but its all depend on owner to spend the money..it does conserve the battery reliability and that of the rectifier..IMHO.

 

I have PowerAbuser 2 but did not really help as far as better respond etc..for an S4 is concern...but it did some for my XR200. The agent did provide good service for me to have it check which till date I have not but soon will befor ethe warranty expires. Anyway..am using EPS Power Charger now for my S4 which are more adequate in what the others does. One thing for sure is that grounding provides all the benefits of voltage stablizer and what you need is a Power charger to help stablizer alternating ac current to the rectifier and a good constant dc to charge the battery and yet the unit able to substain constant load when battery is overloaded. If anyone have the notion that a Voltage Stablizer gives you better performance..that's not exactly what it odes best or is.

[Ah Pek]

>>2. my clutch plates feel about the same as when i first rode the bike. (either still the same or i got used to it as it slowly changes). either way, the biting point comes in around halfway..the clutch out more for the bike to move. if i increase freeplay, i only need to let the clutch out less before reaching biting point. so which is 'correct' for the clutch to engage optimally?

 

There are ways to adjust clutch..from top for fine and lower..for more major. Hope you are doing it right.

 

>>3. initially i wanted to use 10w40. wanted to use a 40 oil as it's recommended for the S4 it seems. but my mech says, get a 50 oil as it protects better. so the first time i converted to synthetic, i used maxima Extra's 50 oil (15w50.. so next full flush, my backside was itchy and so i wanted to try a 'higher grade' of EO. so i tried maxima's Ultra (cos it's supposedly a more 'premium' grade and better than the Extra series. ...but some slight research seem to say that these 'premium grade' oils are thinner than their 'slightly lower grade counterparts of the same viscosity. for both maxima's Ultra and Motul's 300v. meaning, Ultra's 50 is not the same as Extra's 50. it is actually thinner. i took this info to mean that if i got Ultra 50, it'd be thinner than an Extra 50 yet abit thicker than a Extra 40. (a nice balance lah or so i thought). i hope i've made the right choice. if not, i'll just downgrade to Extra 10w40 the next full oil change.

 

Just remember that thinner "Ws" does better for newer bike...older bike uses higher "Ws" number. Each has its advantage and depend on how you ride. If you think that 50W is good for a new bike as it did for you..wait till you ride at hi rpm..you do find that your engine has a stalling effect due to oil pressure building up..that's when the 5/30w or 10/40w works so much better for new bikes.

 

>>also ur suggestion to put X1R into as an EO additive is a little confusing as i read the label on the bottle and it says it's a fuel additive...

 

Yah...your X1R is a :giddy: ..never heard of it.

 

>>4. i use FP60... to be honest, i only felt the effects the first coupla days. after which, the performance as so-so. no significant improvements. FC also actually dropped a little.

 

Dunno...never use this product and never convince about what it says on te bottle.

 

>>5. no issue. to speak the truth, i actually change gears at 5k+rpm and not at 4-5 as stated earlier. (in case kena flak, ppl think i like to drag and waste my fc) and i actually prefer it that way, to change at 5k+ as the engine sounds right. i dunno how ppl can change around 4 every time as the bike will sputter and it just sounds asthmatic and painful. (no offense to

 

Up to each rider lah...just ride what is comfortable to you. But if I have a Vtec...its vtec mode every time lah...1st year oso 9-10/11 k rpm one lah Like that all my 16 valves all use and well used and balanced...not 8 very used and 8 hardly used...go figure.

 

>>i will check out green oil. about grounding, i've been told that since my bike is new, there isn't a need for grounding.. true or not? also, i've had revtec installed before but i took it out after my mech advised against using cos he said its LED light drained my stock batt. i've since changed to a new batt and i am revtec-less. was thinking of getting power abuser which promises better results and it doesn't have LEDs. recommended?

 

Get a Power Charger unit lah...it does what it does..and grounding MUST have but niote that I does my own ground not mototiam. LED makan battery energy??.. he is a mech I suppose..if he's a electronic engineer and say that, I lagi :faint: !

[Takeshi1]

normally how many KM u all change engine oil or how long u all need to service ur S4???

[arsonist]

anyone know overseas website that can order s4 parts cheaper?

 

thanks