[Archive] [Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2008

[Asap]

Ur reserve is 3 litre..if you are doing 20km/ltr..just times 3.

 

Ok thx....

[Takeshi1]

ehhh ah pek,

 

 

how much the is EPS charger u mentioned? dont know y my bike only can travel 200 plus km nia...i see the volt meter installed in my bike when i high beam the time the goes very high...i think i need that

[inspire85]

Guys, does ur fan on regularly? I realise my fan on earlier den last time.. Now when i travel on CTE from sch back home, ard 20km, avg speed 90km/hr in the afternoon, meet 2 traffic lights and i'll reach home.. By den my fan already on.. Does u guys fan on so fast?

[xiing_2005]

hi i have a question to ask . normaly i pump 98 shell . but 2 days ago i try 95 from shell also and the acclera become more faster . can i now how come ??

[arsonist]

Yah..that's the one and yes you either replace it or be happy with what you got. The big difference is the proven circuirty use in cars and use of high value capacitor makes the product a better one. It be good better if you already have groundings done already.

 

>>aftermarket coolant hoses (the silicone ones) recommended?

 

If you do find one and DIY..just be sure don't overtighten the circlip but tight enogh for pressure not to ooze the coolant out.

 

sbf anniversary promotion got sell NEX coolant hoses with coolant flush and coolant top up with pivot radiator cap included for only $180. but i dunno why i see like nobody taking up the offer. its also made of silicon.

 

anyone here buying?

[Ah Pek]

sbf anniversary promotion got sell NEX coolant hoses with coolant flush and coolant top up with pivot radiator cap included for only $180. but i dunno why i see like nobody taking up the offer. its also made of silicon.

 

anyone here buying?

 

That's kind of funny too I think...$180 is about the cost of original...somemore its silicon. May be low quality silicon?

 

If it was $280 I can understand.

[loyjwe]

Your "side stand down" led light comes on or not?...non vtec?

 

hi. mine is spec 3 dun think have side stand light. and it doesnot work cutting off the engine. got a minor accident bcoz of tat. so trying to see can diy or must go shop or wat. thanks ah pek

[arsonist]

That's kind of funny too I think...$180 is about the cost of original...somemore its silicon. May be low quality silicon?

 

If it was $280 I can understand.

 

dunno leh, mebe its promo price? nvm i think i will try first to see how it is.

however the promo thread is very quiet dunno why...

[BigDogs]

Guys, does ur fan on regularly? I realise my fan on earlier den last time.. Now when i travel on CTE from sch back home, ard 20km, avg speed 90km/hr in the afternoon, meet 2 traffic lights and i'll reach home.. By den my fan already on.. Does u guys fan on so fast?

 

Bro i tink you better check your coolant try using engine ice, so far i use quite ok but i heard there are better ones out there. Make sure when change they flush also.

[Ah Pek]

ehhh ah pek,

 

 

how much the is EPS charger u mentioned? dont know y my bike only can travel 200 plus km nia...i see the volt meter installed in my bike when i high beam the time the goes very high...i think i need that

 

I think its selling for $160 or $169.90..I can get for $145.00 DIY...very simple).

[Ah Pek]

Bro i tink you better check your coolant try using engine ice, so far i use quite ok but i heard there are better ones out there. Make sure when change they flush also.

 

Just take note that "flush" means using radiator cleansing detergent (acidic) and letting the bike run for 10 to 15 mins or so..if they use water just to jet and wash out..that just "rinsing".

 

If you have the above done and still problem persist..time to check your thermostat unit. Take it out and test it with hot boiling water..should hear it when it open out.

 

If the above fails..have to check your pump impeller fan (coolant pump). This is thelast thing you would want to do but from the problem you are having..its can also be insufficient eo, coolant water or bad premixed ratio or just some clogged coolant path...or possibly your fan switch is out of specification.

 

Take what I said here as a guide for procedure trouble shooting than just listening to the mech..this spoil that spoil. Good luck.

[RideHard]

gud morning bros

[RideHard]

thermo stat chg mni money spend hor?

[Ah Pek]

thermo stat chg mni money spend hor?

 

...of course lah..unless your name is LKY

[s4vtec]

dunno leh, mebe its promo price? nvm i think i will try first to see how it is.

however the promo thread is very quiet dunno why...

 

i was wondering if MotoWorld are using the correct rating of radiator cap? will different rating of radiator cap affect our bike?

[Ah Pek]

What rating?...psi that it can managed?...of course it does.

[s4vtec]

What rating?...psi that it can managed?...of course it does.

 

any idea wats the rating used for S4?

[Advrider]

Guys, does ur fan on regularly? I realise my fan on earlier den last time.. Now when i travel on CTE from sch back home, ard 20km, avg speed 90km/hr in the afternoon, meet 2 traffic lights and i'll reach home.. By den my fan already on.. Does u guys fan on so fast?

 

Check the rubber seal of your radiator cap for wear and tear. Make sure that the rubbers not harden. I had experienced the fan kicking in early some times back and my spare tank the level drops quite a bit. I had the cap changed and now seems ok.

[Hellevate]

hmm ah pek, yes it's me yet again, the 'problematic' spec III rider. this time it's about my forks.

 

actually this is not a new issue. in early august (bike is 8mths old), i realised that my forks don't dampen the shock from the road as well as it used to. there were times when i ride on roads with lotsa markings, the bike (namely the front end) will vibrate like crazy cos of the 'bumps' on the road. this can literally give me a headache sometimes from all the vibration. even going over humps, i have to slow down a lot and even then i can feel the fork going in more than usual.

 

later, i went to K&T where i normally service my bike, for an oil change and decided to ask about this problem. the boss, i forgot, told me that i need only to adjust the 2 'blue screws' at the top of my forks. 'preload adjusters' are they called? i'm not too sure. anyways, he helped me to adjust the screws and from 2 visible grooves (meaning 3 sections of the screws left), to 1 visible groove (2 sections left). he then said that if the forks get soft again, just adjust the screws again til the last groove. after the last groove, then i need to change the oil. (or something like that).

 

i rode off and felt the front end feeling smooth and a lot less bumpy. almost stock feeling and no more strong vibrations. however, only about a week later, the softness came in again. so i adjusted the screws til the last available groove. this time it lasted less than a week before becoming soft. so i went to K&T again for a fork oil change.

 

i hoped that they put in thicker oil or something so it won't get saggy so fast. and so after the fork oil change, the screws were adjusted to the original position of 2 visible grooves (3 sections). bike rides fine after that. fast forward to a week ago. the irritating problem is back. vibrations from each bumpy surface and i almost lost control from the very bumpy front end while navigating a bumpy corner. i tried pushing on the handlebars when the bike is stationary to feel the compression and it sucks. it's very soft. i can do the next easy thing, adjust the screw thingy and tahan a week or so before the prob comes again or i can ask for a possible diagnosis (or more than one) from u to find out wot can possibly be the main problem before i go about rectifying the prob for good.

 

i remember the mech saying that the stock spec III springs in the fork aren't good and recommended me to change them when i can. i find this hard to digest as other friends who ride spec IIIs haven't had any probs with their forks and furthermore my bike is newer than theirs. i've never been in an accident (touch wood) and the only 'big thing' that's happened to my forks were that i've hit a 3-4 potholes in it's entire 8mth life that 'shocked' the bike a little and after each time i had it checked and made sure that the rims and forks weren't warped or damaged...

 

so......*sigh* help? it really is a headache commuting thru the city streets as the paint markings on the road will make the ride bumpy and taking corners nearly upright to reduce lost of control from sudden possible bumps is killing me...

[YyuAnN]

anyway how fast can a PB1 go? the top speed.

[Ah Pek]

hmm ah pek, yes it's me yet again, the 'problematic' spec III rider. this time it's about my forks.

 

actually this is not a new issue. in early august (bike is 8mths old), i realised that my forks don't dampen the shock from the road as well as it used to. there were times when i ride on roads with lotsa markings, the bike (namely the front end) will vibrate like crazy cos of the 'bumps' on the road. this can literally give me a headache sometimes from all the vibration. even going over humps, i have to slow down a lot and even then i can feel the fork going in more than usual.

 

later, i went to K&T where i normally service my bike, for an oil change and decided to ask about this problem. the boss, i forgot, told me that i need only to adjust the 2 'blue screws' at the top of my forks. 'preload adjusters' are they called? i'm not too sure. anyways, he helped me to adjust the screws and from 2 visible grooves (meaning 3 sections of the screws left), to 1 visible groove (2 sections left). he then said that if the forks get soft again, just adjust the screws again til the last groove. after the last groove, then i need to change the oil. (or something like that).

 

i rode off and felt the front end feeling smooth and a lot less bumpy. almost stock feeling and no more strong vibrations. however, only about a week later, the softness came in again. so i adjusted the screws til the last available groove. this time it lasted less than a week before becoming soft. so i went to K&T again for a fork oil change.

 

i hoped that they put in thicker oil or something so it won't get saggy so fast. and so after the fork oil change, the screws were adjusted to the original position of 2 visible grooves (3 sections). bike rides fine after that. fast forward to a week ago. the irritating problem is back. vibrations from each bumpy surface and i almost lost control from the very bumpy front end while navigating a bumpy corner. i tried pushing on the handlebars when the bike is stationary to feel the compression and it sucks. it's very soft. i can do the next easy thing, adjust the screw thingy and tahan a week or so before the prob comes again or i can ask for a possible diagnosis (or more than one) from u to find out wot can possibly be the main problem before i go about rectifying the prob for good.

 

i remember the mech saying that the stock spec III springs in the fork aren't good and recommended me to change them when i can. i find this hard to digest as other friends who ride spec IIIs haven't had any probs with their forks and furthermore my bike is newer than theirs. i've never been in an accident (touch wood) and the only 'big thing' that's happened to my forks were that i've hit a 3-4 potholes in it's entire 8mth life that 'shocked' the bike a little and after each time i had it checked and made sure that the rims and forks weren't warped or damaged...

 

so......*sigh* help? it really is a headache commuting thru the city streets as the paint markings on the road will make the ride bumpy and taking corners nearly upright to reduce lost of control from sudden possible bumps is killing me...

 

A "shocking" problem iszit....LOL!?..how much fork oil do they put inside? What type of fork oil (brand..hope its not "Yamaha") do you know? What grade of oil..10W or 20W? Btw..just curious. how come your Spec III has a spring preload adjustment?

 

Never need to change spring unless a fork is bend till broken in an accident and affected the spring. Those who does and want to change is not for such reason as your problem here.

 

If you want the problem solve once and for all..David Ong at Teck Thye is the man.

[Ah Pek]

anyway how fast can a PB1 go? the top speed.

 

My meter shows 190km/hr..that's where it ends and bike still going..front 15T, back 42T. X-1R in eo.

[Ah Pek]

any idea wats the rating used for S4?

 

Should be around 13.5 to 17.7 psi for the pressure cap.

[loyjwe]

hi. mine is spec 3 dun think have side stand light. and it doesnot work cutting off the engine. got a minor accident bcoz of tat. so trying to see can diy or must go shop or wat. thanks ah pek

 

can any1 help??

[Ah Pek]

can any1 help??

 

Try looking under the bike. Start with the stand and trace..there should be a connection of some sort..like a soft spring or whatever that link to a mechanical switch etc. Could have been dislodge, bend or displace or any broken wires etc..due to your accident which you did not mentioned earlier. Definitely nothing internal.