[DIY] The Clinic

[jtzx]

bro mepkoh , i also want install the chain lub thingy , can i can i ??

 

heard your Ta200 very nice looking.. can share share?

[mepkoh]

Jtzx...yang is coming over to join us...after vunch fix his oiler..and yours too..

[jtzx]

Jtzx...yang is coming over to join us...after vunch fix his oiler..and yours too..

 

for the inspection or???? rmb tmr is our meeting ;-)

[mepkoh]

yeah...tomorrow...special order for oiler...

yang will join us or lunch..then do oiler..thats the plan..

[jtzx]

yeah...tomorrow...special order for oiler...

yang will join us or lunch..then do oiler..thats the plan..

 

alright.. so shall see u at the inspection centre alright. 11am... very likely to rain. Checked NEA web le.

[mepkoh]

hahah..i can predit..light shower expected in the morning...

nice cool ride then..see ya

[jtzx]

yup... Rain or shine i be there..

[S750WP]

I diy my chain oiler as well, will post some pics of my version soon, i did not cut hole in the tube, my breather hose is at the oil container itself. I have a aquarium on/off valve and regulator to regulate the oil flow.

 

For changing the brake fluid there is a easier method, I just open the brake reservoir cover and open the banjo nut at the brake to drain out all the old brake fluid.

 

After which I locked the banjo nut, connect a short tubing to the brake nipple, and the other end to a syringe. Loosen the brake nipple and filled the syringe with new brake fluid and pump in the brake fluid until you see your brake reservoir is filled with brake fluid then locked the brake nipple.

 

Then do the normal brake bleeding 3-4 times at your caliper and its good.

[YangKru]

heard your Ta200 very nice looking.. can share share?

 

who says my TA200 is nice looking ?

[jtzx]

who says my TA200 is nice looking ?

 

it's indeed nice.. the paintworks ;-) DIY somemore..

 

i did my own version 5 oiler again.. Now the flow is constant and the breather hole has a mini washer in there too.. Hole wont close anymore..

 

If you ever played tamiya cars, you know what i meant.. those washes can be found on the wheels of the car..

[mepkoh]

I diy my chain oiler as well, will post some pics of my version soon, i did not cut hole in the tube, my breather hose is at the oil container itself. I have a aquarium on/off valve and regulator to regulate the oil flow.

 

For changing the brake fluid there is a easier method, I just open the brake reservoir cover and open the banjo nut at the brake to drain out all the old brake fluid.

 

After which I locked the banjo nut, connect a short tubing to the brake nipple, and the other end to a syringe. Loosen the brake nipple and filled the syringe with new brake fluid and pump in the brake fluid until you see your brake reservoir is filled with brake fluid then locked the brake nipple.

 

Then do the normal brake bleeding 3-4 times at your caliper and its good.

 

hey this is easier...will try the next time...great idea man.

[S750WP]

Picture of my DIY chain oiler

 

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x97/S750WP/SNC00151.jpg

My DIY Chain oiler set up

 

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x97/S750WP/SNC00152.jpg

90ml syringe to contain the oil and a hole make on the cover for the oil to flow smoothly

 

 

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x97/S750WP/SNC00153.jpg

Plastic On/Off valve cost, $2 per pc, its better than the metal one which leaks after some opening and closing

 

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x97/S750WP/SNC00154.jpg

Regulator to control the drip at 1 drop/min the dripper I am using the tubing from a pump of hair bubble dye.

 

Materials:

 

1 x 90ml syring

1 x cover from car wash (to cover the syring, poke a hole on it as breather)

Tubing ID 5mm and 3mm

1 x on/off valve (aquarium)

1 x regulator (aquarium)

1 pc of wire (to form the frame to tie the dripper to the sprocket)

2 x rubber washer ( to secure the wire frame on the swing arm)

1 x pump tubing from the bubble dye

Cable ties

 

The chain oiler needs to be prime. meaning to open the valve and the regulaotr fully for the oil to flow till you see the whole line is filled with oil, then regulate the oil to 1 drop/min then close the valve. Just on the valve when ridiing and it will oil the chain.

[jtzx]

great.. can provide more information on. what cover u use for your syring? how u do it?? My DIy oiler works great too.

[S750WP]

great.. can provide more information on. what cover u use for your syring? how u do it?? My DIy oiler works great too.

 

The cover for the syringe comes from the car shampoo container which is used to seal the opening to prevent spillage. The size is just nice to fit the syringe making it air tight hence I make a breather hole in order for the oil to flow by using a triangular file to pierce the cover.

 

My chain oiler concept is same as scott oiler except mine is manual on/off while scott oiler is using a vacuum operated on/off valve

Edited October 17, 2009 by S750WP

[mepkoh]

another great idea...

clinic diy..main component is mini-pump, 1 valve and oiling point..

s750wp.....syringe, 2 valves and oiling point...

 

both using the gravity ..mehod..

diy.....do not have to worry about forgetting to close valve..so no problem of whole bottle of oil dumping on to the floor.

 

s750wp...continuous dripping..

 

so both have its strenght and weaknesses..

 

hahah..maybe we called this V6-s750wp

[Silent Hunter]

another great idea...

clinic diy..main component is mini-pump, 1 valve and oiling point..

s750wp.....syringe, 2 valves and oiling point...

 

both using the gravity ..mehod..

diy.....do not have to worry about forgetting to close valve..so no problem of whole bottle of oil dumping on to the floor.

 

s750wp...continuous dripping..

 

so both have its strenght and weaknesses..

 

hahah..maybe we called this V6-s750wp

 

s750wp's oiler won't drip continuosly. His idea is the same as V3 of my idea.

One reservoir (His resrvoir is a syringe), 2 valves, one tip.

Use goes like this.

Open 1st valve, oil goes into tube between the 2 valves.

When the tube between the 2 valves is filled, that mean enough oil has been taken out of the reservoir.

Lock 1st valve. Now no more oil will come out of the reservoir. Oil is stored between the 2 valves.

Open 2nd valve when you want to oil the chain.

Only the oil the has been measured, meaning the oil stored between the valve 1 and valve 2 is released on to the tip for oiling the chain.

[S750WP]

My oil will flow continuously if the on/off is not close, the regulator just behind the dripper is to control the flow rate, once set I do not adjust.

 

My chain oiler line is prime, no trap air, oil is filled from the reservoir to the tip of my dripper, (see the red oil at the tip of the dripper , originally the dripper was transparent).

 

Pro:

 

Once I on the valve it will start lubing the chain, no need to pump and wait for the oil to flow to the dripper. And the oil will stop flowing as soon as I close the valve.

 

Con:

 

If forget to close the valve it will continuously drip until the reservoir(syringe) is dry up.

 

Actually this is my V2 DIY chain oiler, my V1 is squeeze bottle using loobman concept built 5 years ago.

Edited October 18, 2009 by S750WP

[S750WP]

This is my version 1 chain oiler installed on my bandit400 about 5 years ago. Just a oil reservoir, no valves for on/off or regulator to control the oil flow. The dripper is dual lubricating. (both side of the sprocket will be lubed. The concept is to squeeze the oil and let it flow to the dripper by gravity.

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2004%5C09%5C05%5Cbikepics-206404-200.jpg

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2004%5C09%5C05%5Cbikepics-206403-200.jpg

This is the frame that I bent with wire, its still used in my current set up, notice the 2 rubber tap washer used to hold the wire frame in place as well as protecting the swingarm from being scratch,

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2004%5C09%5C05%5Cbikepics-206402-200.jpg

Edited October 18, 2009 by S750WP

[mepkoh]

double dripper..

how much work required to make this guy??

anyway great job man..

[mepkoh]

the silicone tube...6mm id and wall thickness 1mm...

this one super heavy duty...cost $3.5/m...i think this tube is going to last u practically forever...

anyone interested....??

once installed with the oiler...u can firget about the tube...i think u need to use heaty duty cutter to cut to size..

[YangKru]

the silicone tube...6mm id and wall thickness 1mm...

this one super heavy duty...cost $3.5/m...i think this tube is going to last u practically forever...

anyone interested....??

once installed with the oiler...u can firget about the tube...i think u need to use heaty duty cutter to cut to size..

 

keep me posted sir !

[jtzx]

my oiler is doing well for now.. what about yours yang?

[YangKru]

my oiler is doing well for now.. what about yours yang?

 

starts to jam and stop giving oil i guess , have to keep poking.

[mepkoh]

when tube full of oil , all the way back to the pump...try to pump again. if oil comes out in a spurt..confirm air lock.

if oil does not spurt..but instead backup into pump cover and leak from there..confirk tube choked check for kinks....shake the cable ties..may be they are too tight choking it..may need to replace them...

[jtzx]

when tube full of oil , all the way back to the pump...try to pump again. if oil comes out in a spurt..confirm air lock.

if oil does not spurt..but instead backup into pump cover and leak from there..confirk tube choked check for kinks....shake the cable ties..may be they are too tight choking it..may need to replace them...

 

you could do follow my idea.. squeeze in a mini washer for the breather hole can le ;-)

 

mine is doing very well for now..