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Posted

thank you all for the advises. especially on the negativity. i can't agree more. when i'm about to do a u-turn, my mind tend to cave in and let fear overtake me.

 

for highway, it's nothing. :dot: been lane changing back and forth often especially between 2nd and first lane cause i speed alot. :x

 

anyway, will put in more time to reread all comments again and the above picture illustration. been busy with YOG. can't wait for it to end.

08/07/2010: 2B ; 09/05/2011: 3 ; 25/08/2011: 2a ; 29/01/2013: 2

 

20/07/2010 - 29/10/2011: Roadwin R125

21/11/2011 - : YZF-R15

23/12/2015 - 29/06/2017: BMW S1000RR

09/02/2018 - : Ducati 1198SP

 

Looking for plate no. FV1317T

Posted
Well you might want to give your bike a full bubble wash first to remove the solid debris on your bike's body. After that dry it down. For me I used a product from Amway its called Silicon Glaze; got from a colleague. It is a fantastic product that really fills up the microscratches on the paintwork. apply in circular fashion and buff shine. you can go Mustafa level 4 Entrance 4, they have tons of car products.:)

 

 

How did you manage to do that big guy?? Dude next time use that little red spray tube that comes with the chain lube. it directs the spray concentration on whereever you are spraying.:thumb:

 

 

Hey man, negativity is out, and should stay out. Take it this way, if you have the confidence to speed, you have the confidence to U-turn. Because for me I don't have the confidence to speed... I want to live another day to ride bikes for a lifetime!:cheeky:

 

Like what everyone here have advised you on, just relax when riding, legs cramped tight onto the tank but your upper torso has to be relaxed...dun let your body get so stiff:) Anyways what fleas posted on those pictures, those are useful, you might want to also consider going on You-tube, they have tons of knowledge on bike handling.:thumb:

 

where to get those small spray tube ? lol .. anyway my bike thirst for more EO ever since i use CASTROL ! lol !!

Phantom 200 - FU86XG - April2009 to Oct2009

RoadwinR 125 -FBE109XC-Nov2009 to Still Going On

Posted
where to get those small spray tube ? lol .. anyway my bike thirst for more EO ever since i use CASTROL ! lol !!

 

Most chain lube come in standard size cans. The other day, I was in the mood to clean my bike so just bought a can of lube from my neighbourhood Shell station to use. Brand is Holt. Comes with the short red tube for "focused" spraying on the chain.

 

My guess is when you got your can bitten in the sprocket, your left hand was holding the can and spraying while your right hand was turning the wheel. The moment when your can kena bite, was when you looked at your right hand turning the wheel, right? LOL, guaranteed to happen... :lol:

 

This is what I do. My chain has a clip so I use that as a reference point. Spray the top of the chain thats at the bottom. You'll have covered about 1 foot of chain. Stop spraying. Rotate wheel until another foot of chain not yet lubricated is under swingarm. Spray, rotate and so on until you see the clip again. Then you know the whole chain is sprayed.

 

Light a cigi and enjoy. By the time I finish my cigi, its roughly 10 minutes, which is about the time we should let the lubricant sit before wiping off excess lube with a cloth. When wiping, use the same procedure as spraying, i.e. wipe, rotate, wipe, rotate.

 

If your bike thirst for engine oil, it could mean your piston rings are worn. This is assuming you've checked to ensure no leaks anywhere else. EO is meant to lubricate the lower part of the piston, crank, gears & clutch system. The piston ring is supposed to prevent EO from going into the combustion chamber. When rings are worn, EO leak into the combustion chamber and gets burnt in the process. Thus losing oil.

 

Cheap solution is to try using Motul (300V) to see if you still need to top up. If still need to top up regularly, then confirmed, ring gone. Need overhaul.

May seem expensive to overhaul but I personally feel its cheaper in the long run than to constantly top up.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

Guys for those of you who have switched your EO brand. Do you buy from outside or just use the in house Castrol. what is the cost between the OWS 800 and the Inhse Castrol?

 

I personally tried Liqui Moly and the cost was cheaper and quality better. I just didn't switch bcoz CKA has some restriction whereby they will charge you $10 just to pour a different EO in. that means if i use an inhse EO that CKA provides; charges are as per normal. But the moment I bring in my own outsourced EO, CKA will charge an extra $10 just to pour in...I hope they can change this policy...

Posted (edited)

I use Motul 300V. $33 per litre. (buy from motoworld. Might be able to get slightly cheaper elsewhere)

As we're on the topic of engine oil, what are your service intervals? Are you following CKA's 2,500km intervals?

Is "inhouse castrol" synthetic oil?

Edited by ramsnake
edit for source

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

for me ya... 2.5k interval . and i choose inhouse castrol FULLY syntheic oil

Phantom 200 - FU86XG - April2009 to Oct2009

RoadwinR 125 -FBE109XC-Nov2009 to Still Going On

Posted

Roughly, what's the cost of your first servicing? Clocking my first 1000km soon. 100km to go.

08/07/2010: 2B ; 09/05/2011: 3 ; 25/08/2011: 2a ; 29/01/2013: 2

 

20/07/2010 - 29/10/2011: Roadwin R125

21/11/2011 - : YZF-R15

23/12/2015 - 29/06/2017: BMW S1000RR

09/02/2018 - : Ducati 1198SP

 

Looking for plate no. FV1317T

Posted

It's interesting to note that Binteng changes his engine oil at the same "recommended" interval of 2500km. Fleas has even opted to change at 2000km intervals.

 

I remember when I was driving cars, we used to change oils at 5,000km intervals. Then my friends and I all got into the synthetic oil phase (this was in the 90's when synthetics were fairly new in the market) because synthetics offered longer lasting usage and better anti-friction properties. Our oil change intervals were extended to 8,000-10,000km without any noticeable/perceived performance deterioration in performance.

 

Granted that motorcycles with wet clutch systems degrade oils faster than cars due to the "shearing" effect of the transmission gears, we should still expect synthetic oils to have a longer change interval than mineral oils. I believe the 2,500km interval is more for those using mineral oils.

 

These websites provide some rather convincing arguments for synthetics extending change intervals:

Motorcycle Motor Oil

http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/threethousandmileoilchange.htm

 

In particular, the 2nd site states - "The notion that synthetics cannot extend drain intervals because the additives wear out as they do in conventional oil is a myth. Additives last longer in synthetic lubricants. It is documented through oil analysis that this is the truth. Let me say it again: extended drain intervals with synthetics are a reality and additive packages last longer in synthetic oil. These are facts.. "

 

If you google "motorcycle oil change interval" or "frequency" you'll find lots of references. The common theme seems to be 3,000 miles, although this is debunked by the 2 sites above i.e. if using synthetics, intervals should be MORE than 3,000 miles.

 

Let's just take 3,000 miles to be conservative. That's about 4,828km. I like to be even more conservative and change, say 4500km. That's still 2,000km more than the "recommended" interval!

 

As I like the best for my bike, I go with the majority who recommended Motul 300V. I too was initially hesitant given that the price is $33/bottle vs $25 for Castrol until I did the math. Here goes:

 

Say annual mileage is 12,000km

Interval: 2,500km(Castrol) 4500km(Motul)

No of changes per year: 4.8times (Castrol) 2.6times(Motul)

Price per bottle: $25 (Castrol) $33(Motul)

Service charge: $0 (Castrol) $10(Motul)

Cost per change(at 1.4litres): $35(Castrol) $56.2(Motul, S.Chg incl)

Total per year: $168(Castrol) $149.87(Motul)

Cost per km: $0.014 (Castrol) $0.012(Motul)

 

So, using the best isn't that expensive after all. :D

Let's hear your thoughts on this.

 

p/s: Tip - don't ask your bike shop about this. They will of course like to see you there more often, don't you think? ;)

 

Oh, I also heard that Royal Purple fully synthetic is just as good and much cheaper. If I'm not mistaken, it about $18/litre. :thumb:

Going to try that at my next change

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
Hey guys, i just pumped local Shell V power, trying just for fun...wow, really got difference... hope i wont get addicted to it...haha

 

Yes, got difference. I suggest using V-Power every 3rd tank. In between, I just use Shell 98 just to save cost. I also add injector cleaning additive every 2 months.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

ermm.....my intervals could be 2k or 2.5k i going by the recommend one and castrol oil im using is fully syn. highest grade they have im quite sure.

Posted
alright....okay anyone here has experience in removing the squeak in your wheels. I have been wiping clean the disc after every ride and the squeak is still there...its very annoying..

 

haha.. try cleaning the brake pad ? :angel:

Phantom 200 - FU86XG - April2009 to Oct2009

RoadwinR 125 -FBE109XC-Nov2009 to Still Going On

Posted
alright....okay anyone here has experience in removing the squeak in your wheels. I have been wiping clean the disc after every ride and the squeak is still there...its very annoying..

 

you use what to clean? i used to have tat prob with the front brakes, after clean with water and soap, its quiet...

Posted
you use what to clean? i used to have tat prob with the front brakes, after clean with water and soap, its quiet...

 

did someone call me? :angel:

speaking of which, my bike yet to get her first shower.:dot:

08/07/2010: 2B ; 09/05/2011: 3 ; 25/08/2011: 2a ; 29/01/2013: 2

 

20/07/2010 - 29/10/2011: Roadwin R125

21/11/2011 - : YZF-R15

23/12/2015 - 29/06/2017: BMW S1000RR

09/02/2018 - : Ducati 1198SP

 

Looking for plate no. FV1317T

Posted
cool bro, you want to tell me which part of the brake you washed?

 

binteng, I DONNO HOW!!! YOU TEACH ME!!:giddy:

 

LOL . get the right tool and DISMANTAL the brake and take out and wash .. wahla ~ u got it ~ lol

 

did someone call me? :angel:

speaking of which, my bike yet to get her first shower.:dot:

 

GO HL CYCLE ! i think .. i always go there give my darling a soapy + bubble wash =DD

Phantom 200 - FU86XG - April2009 to Oct2009

RoadwinR 125 -FBE109XC-Nov2009 to Still Going On

Posted
did someone call me? :angel:

speaking of which, my bike yet to get her first shower.:dot:

 

you bought brand new bike? I recommend waxing as well after its washed. Will go a long way in helping you keep the bike clean and shiny. :thumb:

 

Did my "first" wash on the bike with D'gapz (opposite CKA KB workshop, within Republic Motor). Must say its good but regret not stopping the guys from using their brass brush on the chain. If you use their service, make sure they don't use any brass or other hard brush as it will kill your chain seals.

 

After the initial thorough wash. I've been doing DIY wash + wax once. After waxing, u'll find it a breeze to wash the next time you need to because dirt comes off more easily.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
alright....okay anyone here has experience in removing the squeak in your wheels. I have been wiping clean the disc after every ride and the squeak is still there...its very annoying..

 

You so free?? No need to clean after every ride lah... :slapforehead: :)

Also depends whether u clean the cloth after every ride or not. If use same cloth but never clean cloth no point right?

 

Try nikon suggestion. DO NOT use those car "wash n wax" type of detergent. When the wax gets on the pads, that contribute towards noise due to build up on the pads. If still cannot, like BInteng said , use right tools to dismantle calipers. Remove brake pads and sand down brake pads to remove accumulated dirt. Noise usually due to dirty pads.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

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