[Discussion] Technical - Lighting

[quen]

For once..size is not a matter..heeeee...x2. As long as its H4 and as fat as it can be..you can always use it unless the wattage specs that comes with it in your headlamp is the same. I believe that the fat one was meant to contain as much gas possible..not for reliablity but rather to achieve brightness..and hopefully the filament is reliable enough to tolerate the heat for prolong continous usage without burning out. OSRAM and Phillip did well with their extra brightness in stock specs and without noticeable increase in circumference or length of the glass tube.

 

If you still intent to use 100/90W..go ahead..but do change your wiring to a higher current rating one than the stock and oso the H4 socket and relay( if any). Loose connection can be one of the causes but seldom and unlikely. There has been too many cases that had happened and it had been realised that its the heat from the headlamp chamber that has transited back to the conductor...the blue and white cable being most common. Mine melted once because I used H4 100/90W before..worse if you do "beaming" a lot or stay at hi-beam for a little too long after a period of time and occassion used. I'm certain of this because my bike never vibrates and so are the others that encountered similar problems (not all S4)

 

OSRAM and Phillips ones are okay as their specs are rated at stock spec usage and has a 30% to 40% brightness. Believe there is some increase in gas contend and more thicker reliable filament used to tolerate the heat for that extra demand.

 

My only best recommendation is either to get a car headlamp (some mod required), have your wiring upgrade or check out the Harley boys headlamp. Oso..do consider your reflector and headlamp heat torlence range. If you have extra Hella spot lightings etc...make sure they have their own fuse and uses relay.

 

Plse understand that I'm not talking down anyone recommendation or product..all above said are IMHO and base on my experience, internet search and plenty of read up..and oso advise from others, I'm just here to share. Just take it with a pinch of Wasabeh..still at all time you guys are entitle to your opinion

 

Yes i totally agree with Ah Pek....

 

Also.....

 

Quote from Osram website:

 

 

Question

Does the OSRAM range include "high-wattage" headlight lamps such as the H4 100 W?

 

Answer

Although OSRAM supplies all its standard halogen headlight lamps in high-wattage versions, they are not approved for use on public roads. They may be used only in off-road vehicles such as rally cars. Using them on public roads many cause the authorities to withdraw the licence for the vehicle and therefore its insurance coverage.

 

Drivers who want a little more light in their headlights should look for the OSRAM SILVERSTAR or even better OSRAM NIGHT BREAKER ranges. These lamps still comply with legal requirements, but offer up to 90% higher luminance on the road and an up to 35m longer beam (compared to standard lamps).

 

=================================================================================================================

 

From another website:

 

 

Claims ("55w = 85w", etc.) made for "Superwhite" type bulbs are very misleading. They simply aren't true. Here's the full scoop!

 

CLAIM: "SuperWhite" bulbs produce 85W of light from 55W of electricity

 

 

REALITY: "Superwhite" ("Hyperwhite", "UltraWhite", "Platinum", etc., basically any bulb advertised as being "whiter" than normal) bulbs produce more glare and less seeing light than standard bulbs.

 

The "55W = 85W" type claims are a sham. Here's how these kinds of pretend wattage numbers are cooked-up: The blue or purple filtration coating on the glass tints the light so that it is "whiter". Most bulbs that actually produces more light (i.e., higher-wattage bulbs) also burn with a whiter color than standard-wattage bulbs. With these color-coated bulbs, only the light color, and not the actual light output, imitates a high-power bulb. There is no seeing advantage to "whiter" light, though some people seem to think that others will look upon headlamps so equipped and go "Wow, cool!". Why they believe anyone else cares what color their headlamps are is anybody's guess.

 

A major reason why many people find many US-specification headlamps in need of upgrading is because many such headlamps have very low levels of foreground light, which creates a "black hole" on the road in front of the car. There's often insufficient lateral light (left and right) to see critters or people before they run into the road. The "hot spot" creates a narrow tunnel of light that disappears "out there somewhere", with no visual cue to where the beam (and therefore the driver's seeing range or "preview") ends. But these headlamp performance aspects are governed by the optics of the lamp, not by the color of the light. Bulbs with blue or purple tinted glass never improve the performance of your headlamps. They may leave it relatively unchanged, or they may severely reduce it, but they never improve it.

 

CLAIM: "Our bulbs produce the whitest and brightest light on the road!"

 

 

REALITY: "Brightness" is like "Loudness". It's a subjective perception. Is Metallica " louder " than Bach? Most people would say so. That's why audiologists use an objective measurement, Sound Pressure Level, rather than subjective quantities like "volume" and "loudness". And so it is in the science of light. "Bright" and "Dim" are subjective perceptions. Intensity, measured in any of several precisely-defined and scientific ways, is the only real way to gauge or compare output of a light source or performance of a lamp equipped with a light source. A 4-watt flashlight bulb dipped in the purple coating applied to these tinted headlamp bulbs would look "whiter", and might look "brighter", but would produce less light. And so it is with these headlamp bulbs.

 

The reason why the scam fools people into thinking their headlamps really work better has to do with the interaction of light that is tinted blue (to any degree) with the human eye. This kind of light has been shown in rigidly-controlled scientific studies to create almost 50% more glare than untinted light from a bulb with clear glass. But there's no 50% increase in seeing to go along with the extra glare; there's no increase in seeing at all, and in most cases there is a moderate reduction in actual seeing light. More glare, less seeing: Everybody loses.

 

CLAIM: Many of these bulbs are sold with claims of specific "color temperature" (e.g. "5000K"). Often, these ratings are accompanied by text to the effect that higher color temperatures are "close to natural daylight".

 

REALITY: Color Temperature is a real measure, but it is being improperly used to claim improved seeing. Legitimate bulb manufacturers do catalogue the color temperature of their products in technical literature not usually distributed to consumers, because scientists and engineers can use it as a convenient proxy indicator for filament luminance. But it has no predictive value for the performance of an automotive headlamp, nor does it indicate how well you'll be able to see. The idea being sold with these "Kelvin ratings" is that the light is closer to natural sunlight. As with many sales claims, there is a small kernel of truth here, but it's cancelled out by the smoke and mirrors. Noonday sunlight does have a much higher color temperature than most uncoated headlamp bulbs, but there are a great many other differences between sunlight and headlamp light, as well. Not only that, but the Color Temperature rating is really valid only at extremely high light intensity, such as that produced by the sun. At the lower intensities produced by most electric lamps including headlamps, the rating no longer says much about the light, but only allows a limited, referential comparison of different light colors. The tinted bulbs' poor imitation of the color of sunlight does not mean that the headlamp output is "just like sunlight", or anything even close. As with the wattage equivalence claims discussed above, a color-based comparison is being used to imply an intensity and seeing-ability comparison that does not exist. This also addresses the related claims that

 

CLAIM: "I've got pictures that prove the brightness difference!"

 

REALITY: Photographs, film or digital, cannot accurately represent the intensity of a light or lamp, because of the many significant differences in the perception of light by the human eye vs. the camera. By simply adjusting the exposure settings or white balance, virtually any bulb or lamp can be "shown" to be superior to virtually any other.

 

BOTTOM LINE: The laws of physics are the laws of physics. They don't bend even for the highest-paid advertising agency. There is no way to get "85 watts of light for 55 watts of electricity." Tinted bulbs aren't better.

[Ah Pek]

Yes i totally agree with Ah Pek....

 

Also.....

 

Quote from Osram website:

 

 

Question

Does the OSRAM range include "high-wattage" headlight lamps such as the H4 100 W?

 

Answer

Although OSRAM supplies all its standard halogen headlight lamps in high-wattage versions, they are not approved for use on public roads. They may be used only in off-road vehicles such as rally cars. Using them on public roads many cause the authorities to withdraw the licence for the vehicle and therefore its insurance coverage.

 

Drivers who want a little more light in their headlights should look for the OSRAM SILVERSTAR or even better OSRAM NIGHT BREAKER ranges. These lamps still comply with legal requirements, but offer up to 90% higher luminance on the road and an up to 35m longer beam (compared to standard lamps).

 

=================================================================================================================

 

From another website:

 

 

Claims ("55w = 85w", etc.) made for "Superwhite" type bulbs are very misleading. They simply aren't true. Here's the full scoop!

 

CLAIM: "SuperWhite" bulbs produce 85W of light from 55W of electricity

 

 

REALITY: "Superwhite" ("Hyperwhite", "UltraWhite", "Platinum", etc., basically any bulb advertised as being "whiter" than normal) bulbs produce more glare and less seeing light than standard bulbs.

 

The "55W = 85W" type claims are a sham. Here's how these kinds of pretend wattage numbers are cooked-up: The blue or purple filtration coating on the glass tints the light so that it is "whiter". Most bulbs that actually produces more light (i.e., higher-wattage bulbs) also burn with a whiter color than standard-wattage bulbs. With these color-coated bulbs, only the light color, and not the actual light output, imitates a high-power bulb. There is no seeing advantage to "whiter" light, though some people seem to think that others will look upon headlamps so equipped and go "Wow, cool!". Why they believe anyone else cares what color their headlamps are is anybody's guess.

 

A major reason why many people find many US-specification headlamps in need of upgrading is because many such headlamps have very low levels of foreground light, which creates a "black hole" on the road in front of the car. There's often insufficient lateral light (left and right) to see critters or people before they run into the road. The "hot spot" creates a narrow tunnel of light that disappears "out there somewhere", with no visual cue to where the beam (and therefore the driver's seeing range or "preview") ends. But these headlamp performance aspects are governed by the optics of the lamp, not by the color of the light. Bulbs with blue or purple tinted glass never improve the performance of your headlamps. They may leave it relatively unchanged, or they may severely reduce it, but they never improve it.

 

CLAIM: "Our bulbs produce the whitest and brightest light on the road!"

 

 

REALITY: "Brightness" is like "Loudness". It's a subjective perception. Is Metallica " louder " than Bach? Most people would say so. That's why audiologists use an objective measurement, Sound Pressure Level, rather than subjective quantities like "volume" and "loudness". And so it is in the science of light. "Bright" and "Dim" are subjective perceptions. Intensity, measured in any of several precisely-defined and scientific ways, is the only real way to gauge or compare output of a light source or performance of a lamp equipped with a light source. A 4-watt flashlight bulb dipped in the purple coating applied to these tinted headlamp bulbs would look "whiter", and might look "brighter", but would produce less light. And so it is with these headlamp bulbs.

 

The reason why the scam fools people into thinking their headlamps really work better has to do with the interaction of light that is tinted blue (to any degree) with the human eye. This kind of light has been shown in rigidly-controlled scientific studies to create almost 50% more glare than untinted light from a bulb with clear glass. But there's no 50% increase in seeing to go along with the extra glare; there's no increase in seeing at all, and in most cases there is a moderate reduction in actual seeing light. More glare, less seeing: Everybody loses.

 

CLAIM: Many of these bulbs are sold with claims of specific "color temperature" (e.g. "5000K"). Often, these ratings are accompanied by text to the effect that higher color temperatures are "close to natural daylight".

 

REALITY: Color Temperature is a real measure, but it is being improperly used to claim improved seeing. Legitimate bulb manufacturers do catalogue the color temperature of their products in technical literature not usually distributed to consumers, because scientists and engineers can use it as a convenient proxy indicator for filament luminance. But it has no predictive value for the performance of an automotive headlamp, nor does it indicate how well you'll be able to see. The idea being sold with these "Kelvin ratings" is that the light is closer to natural sunlight. As with many sales claims, there is a small kernel of truth here, but it's cancelled out by the smoke and mirrors. Noonday sunlight does have a much higher color temperature than most uncoated headlamp bulbs, but there are a great many other differences between sunlight and headlamp light, as well. Not only that, but the Color Temperature rating is really valid only at extremely high light intensity, such as that produced by the sun. At the lower intensities produced by most electric lamps including headlamps, the rating no longer says much about the light, but only allows a limited, referential comparison of different light colors. The tinted bulbs' poor imitation of the color of sunlight does not mean that the headlamp output is "just like sunlight", or anything even close. As with the wattage equivalence claims discussed above, a color-based comparison is being used to imply an intensity and seeing-ability comparison that does not exist. This also addresses the related claims that

 

CLAIM: "I've got pictures that prove the brightness difference!"

 

REALITY: Photographs, film or digital, cannot accurately represent the intensity of a light or lamp, because of the many significant differences in the perception of light by the human eye vs. the camera. By simply adjusting the exposure settings or white balance, virtually any bulb or lamp can be "shown" to be superior to virtually any other.

 

BOTTOM LINE: The laws of physics are the laws of physics. They don't bend even for the highest-paid advertising agency. There is no way to get "85 watts of light for 55 watts of electricity." Tinted bulbs aren't better.

 

...LOL!..oh yes..read it and its great that you mentioning it here. In short..the blue coating is actually a 'block'..looking at it directly makes it looks bright lots of useful distance "light throw" is being dispersed (read in other web sources.

[limbat]

Cool mates .... this story were known long long time ago leow laaa - 15years ago when i was given my 1st Osram Silverstar H4 it claim to be the best of the best - White light beam with blue coating. Until today they have not solved the problem Silverstar has - I last spoke to their engineers at the 2007 SEMA show, the problem is still there. No prefect light solution laaa btw light beam is focus by the headlamp casing - so get a good lamp casing if u need specify light beam pattern.

[limbat]

have any of you guys tried Philips NightVision - it has a 3 colored light beam - White, yellow & blue all in 1 H4.. i think these are not available for right-hand drive vehicles due to the unsual color beam.

[Tyrian]

i had problems with inspection using my h4 diamond vision.. -_-

[quen]

yes anything above 4000K is considered not legal.... some lucky guys have passed the inspection thou.

[limbat]

Well it has been claimed here on SBF - Philips Halogen bulbs are LTA approved. maybe yours failed bec it is shining too high baaa

[quen]

No u r wrong.... Crystalvision and Diamondvision will fail..... U must look for the "ECE R37" logo for LTA compliance.....

[Tyrian]

crystal and diamond vision will fail..

 

sian lo, but i managed to pass for my last 3 attempts in 3 years. of course i gave excuses and such lo..

 

but anyway, no problem with TP yet coz haven got stopped..

[limbat]

but Y are they failing ........... too bright ?? or is the color tempreture ??

[s4vtec]

hmmm... inspector mood problem...

[quen]

but Y are they failing ........... too bright ?? or is the color tempreture ??

 

White halogen lights are dim.... just that our eyes perceived them to be bright.... its the colour temp that will fail.....

[joajas]

For those using Nightbreaker and those wanting to improve light output:

 

If your want to maximize the potential of this bulb, build a relay harness and run the bulb directly from battery via the relay and fuse.

 

You will see a significant improvement from the already bright Nightbreaker.

 

:cheers:

[FrdAuZ]

Easy to DIY? Can teach how?

[edwardthy]

hi been following this thread, quite interested to get my hands on osram night breaker for my s4. Anyone dun mind can PM me the place where can buy? Wats the recommended? h4 or h7? tks...

[FrdAuZ]

Check out the CMO section !

[1Seth1]

personally i like the original super yellow bulbs from honda. its REALLY good..

i'm using it currently with no issues.

[limbat]

Yeap those are the clear glass type - if u need some more I have them - most buyer leave the OE units with me after changing to the coated bulbs. cheers

[mamu27]

eh i heard philips xtreme power bulbs are good stuff too! anyone here tried it before?!?!??!??!?!??!1

 

me!

 

i replaced my VisionPlus with this new xtreme power.

 

very happy with it. I frequently drive into malaysia. very bad experience with those 'white' lights. even Philips crytal vision.

 

simple reason being, these bulbs are blue coated to emit white light.

so ur light power output is lowered. and wait till when the roads are wet or foggy weather. white light doesnt help

 

ps. do a google. alot of readups abt all these lights and their terminology.

 

ride/drive safe all!

[chlim]

hi all,

i hav 1 set(2pcs) of PIAA H4 SERIES INTENSE WHITE for sale at $100(neg) usual price for this ard $120++....or at $50 each...its only used for testing.....

 

The Name Says it All! PIAA’s Intense White bulbs produce a more radiant white beam without any hint of blue. This bulb has been completely re-engineered from the ground up. What you’ll see in the 9005 and 9006 bulbs is a larger glass tube with a white top coat. The larger glass tube increases output (28% whiter color than STAR WHITE) and allows the bulb to burn at much cooler temperatures. PIAA’s new Intense White Bulbs provide the best possible balance between performance and bulb life.

 

Bulb Type H4

Wattage 60/55w = 135/125w, 4100K

Technology Intense White

 

interested party pls PM with me with urs contact nos.. :)

[limbat]

me!

i replaced my VisionPlus with this new xtreme power.

very happy with it. I frequently drive into malaysia. very bad experience with those 'white' lights. even Philips crytal vision.

simple reason being, these bulbs are blue coated to emit white light.

so ur light power output is lowered. and wait till when the roads are wet or foggy weather. white light doesnt help

ps. do a google. alot of readups abt all these lights and their terminology.

ride/drive safe all!

 

It is really interesting to note - we sell Halogen locally - I tell most buyers that to get white light beam a B2 coating is best but most buyer wans them coated B4 extreme white no yellow beam at all. And we all know, yellow is the all weather color .......... Haiz............ For Riders/Drivers who do drive up north often do buy the Halogen ( white light beam) with B2 coating - visibility is perfect for this color.

[limbat]

We jus got a customer ( 15mins ago ) came back to change a B2 coating to a B4 coating Halogen bec the while light beam is not white enuff ............ Haizz..................

[1Seth1]

guys.. can get things from limbat, he's got alot of kewl stuff man.. plus the fact that he's super friendly. =D i had one experience with him, and i'm surely going back for more. lol..

 

btw. bro, u got the h4 low beam halo high beam HID? how much ah??

[limbat]

guys.. can get things from limbat, he's got alot of kewl stuff man.. plus the fact that he's super friendly. =D i had one experience with him, and i'm surely going back for more. lol..

 

btw. bro, u got the h4 low beam halo high beam HID? how much ah??

 

Got mate pls ask at the CMO thread ...............

[inspire85]

Sorry guys, noob question here, can these h4 white light pass annual inspection? I own a white bulb here and wonder if i'll pass the inspection.. If not i gotta buy a normal bulb for the inspection..