SBF Majesty 250/400 Cafe 2008

[majestyboy]

Yah , it means that my majesty pulley is old leow. Still can "tong".

The pulley middle surface is slightly wavy

 

maybe last owner went up to genting longpang pillion somemore..... hehehe

[Guest bomerman81]

Originally posted by majestyboy@May 21, 2007 03:10 pm

Yah , it means that my majesty pulley is old leow. Still can "tong".

The pulley middle surface is slightly wavy

 

maybe last owner went up to genting longpang pillion somemore..... hehehe

:sweat:

 

up genting with yp250 think quite stress for the bike ley.....

[JeetKuneDo]

im going to a do full service soon, belt change, rollers, air filter,oil filter.

 

did i miss any parts out on the full service ?for sure EO & spark plug also need to change...

 

belt u all recommend to take back the original or other brand ?can recommend & list out price ? ?

 

can also recommend rollers with price too??

 

air/oil filter any1 here using K&N ? i look thru K&N website, thy do have air filter for yp250 but i dno who in sg might be carrying it...any1 knows/using it now..? any better performance ?

[firestorm_33]

Originally posted by JeetKuneDo@May 23, 2007 11:18 pm

im going to a do full service soon, belt change, rollers, air filter,oil filter.

 

did i miss any parts out on the full service ?for sure EO & spark plug also need to change...

 

belt u all recommend to take back the original or other brand ?can recommend & list out price ? ?

 

can also recommend rollers with price too??

 

air/oil filter any1 here using K&N ? i look thru K&N website, thy do have air filter for yp250 but i dno who in sg might be carrying it...any1 knows/using it now..? any better performance ?

bro, fyi,

 

i am waiting for my next belt change also..... going to test out the malossi belt but will be using orginal rollers, u shoes.....

 

price wise, not too sure cos Dr Ponytail never overcharge one.....

 

anyway one more thing you might want to do during your svc..... fludh the coolant,.......

 

K & N filter i heard from the burgmens not bad but after a while no diff liao.... plus fuel comsumption went up abit......

 

haven't try it myself though.

[ah_huats]

bro, fyi,

 

i am waiting for my next belt change also..... going to test out the malossi belt but will be using orginal rollers, u shoes.....

 

price wise, not too sure cos Dr Ponytail never overcharge one.....

 

anyway one more thing you might want to do during your svc..... fludh the coolant,.......

 

K & N filter i heard from the burgmens not bad but after a while no diff liao.... plus fuel comsumption went up abit......

 

haven't try it myself though.

 

Can I have your Email address ?

[firestorm_33]

[email protected]

[ah_huats]

[email protected]

 

Check out your mail box

[GuiNNeSS]

Anyone upgraded their MKII headlights to 55/60 watt ones?

 

My bike can't seem to take it, and the battery will drain slowly when travelling long distances. Disconnected one bulb now and it runs fine...

[unocvin]

The rectified voltages put in more charge to the battery over long distances. Upgrading to a higher wattage bulb may drain the battery more than it can be charged adequately during idling and low rpm operation; long distance riding will charge a battery more.

 

The electrical system is deigned to produce more charge than is necessary for city riding, any excess charge that the battery couldn't take in is converted as wasted heat energy. That's the reason for the finning of rectifier/regulator and in some applications is actually exposed to "air" off the heat.

 

A voltage meter is never a precise way to tell if the draw fro the battery is greater or lesser than the charge the system is producing. The volt meter at best only shows you to a very limited extent that the charging system is working or not. It doesn't tell you where along the system that it isn't working. To be accurate you need ammeters before and after the battery. This will tell you 2 independent system : the charging and the drawing system. It will tell you if the draw is more than the charge; vice versa. This way, the entire system is isolated into:

 

1) Charging

2) Rectifying/Regulating

3) Battery

 

Based on your limited description; and assuming that you are relying on your volt meter, you would probably need a more thorough check on your charging system. It may not be producing enough charge to begin with. If you are handy with DIY and a multimeter, i can dig out the factory specs.

[GuiNNeSS]

Hey thats great. Do you have the factory specifications for the alternator and rectifier?

 

Better yet, do you have the softcopy of the service manual? The bike's doing 13.7 volts at idle, without the headlights on.

[firestorm_33]

Hey thats great. Do you have the factory specifications for the alternator and rectifier?

 

Better yet, do you have the softcopy of the service manual? The bike's doing 13.7 volts at idle, without the headlights on.

 

 

 

bro, did you add any relay to your bike headlights? think you might want to check it out cos if i remember correctly, our headlight is 55/60 watt ........

 

if got relay added, then it will suck up more electricity,just like what happened to bomberman81 and me before......

 

After removing the relays, there is no more problems liao......

 

hmmm..... 13.7V could means that your rectifier got no problem..... try trottle the bike (stationary) and measure the battery voltage with a ammeter (both carrying out the same time)

 

if the voltage rises, it should means that your battery is charging, which will also means that recifier and coil got no problems......

 

hope it helps abit,......

[GuiNNeSS]

bro, did you add any relay to your bike headlights? think you might want to check it out cos if i remember correctly, our headlight is 55/60 watt ........

 

if got relay added, then it will suck up more electricity,just like what happened to bomberman81 and me before......

 

After removing the relays, there is no more problems liao......

 

hmmm..... 13.7V could means that your rectifier got no problem..... try trottle the bike (stationary) and measure the battery voltage with a ammeter (both carrying out the same time)

 

if the voltage rises, it should means that your battery is charging, which will also means that recifier and coil got no problems......

 

hope it helps abit,......

 

Yes, I use individual relays for lowbeam and highbeams, tap power direct from battery.

 

I've been riding for a week now on a single headlight, no problems. Stock headlights is 35/35 watts.

 

I think I need to check the coil and rectifier resistance, but no time..

[unocvin]

At idle, it shouldn’t produce 13.7 Vdc; more likely less than 13Vdc or thereabout (meter accuracy). If you have relays fitted and energised, it will draw some current. You can’t tell with a voltmeter, as firestorm mentioned, only an ammeter will show the current draw.

Rev it higher and if it goes up to and beyond 15 Vdc, your rectifier/regulator is not doing its job anymore and will soon fry your battery. Possibly your R/R may need some attention.

 

The specs are appended below, but I’ll need to get into the workshop to get my notes on the AC readings from the stator; i think its about 22-24Vac phase- to-phase for all 3 phase. Stators are pretty tough things but heat does destroy insulation on both the stator and rotor casing shorts. Anyway, its AC, so switch your multimeter accordingly.

 

 

Charging system:

Type - A.C. magneto

Model/manufacturer - 4HC/MITSUBISHI

Normal output - 14V 16 A at 5,000 r/min

Stator coil resistance/color - 0.8 ~1.0 Ohm at 20 degC/ White – White

 

___

Rectifire/regulator:

Model/manufacturer - SH640D-12/SHINDENGEN

No load regulated voltage - 14.7

Capacity - 20A

Withstand voltage - 200Vdc

[GuiNNeSS]

I measured the voltage at the battery terminals itself. Revving up, it doesn't go beyond 13.9 volts.

 

Does tapping power straight from the battery cause any problems? I think I should install a voltmeter to monitor the voltage.

 

At idle, it shouldn’t produce 13.7 Vdc; more likely less than 13Vdc or thereabout (meter accuracy). If you have relays fitted and energised, it will draw some current. You can’t tell with a voltmeter, as firestorm mentioned, only an ammeter will show the current draw.

Rev it higher and if it goes up to and beyond 15 Vdc, your rectifier/regulator is not doing its job anymore and will soon fry your battery. Possibly your R/R may need some attention.

 

The specs are appended below, but I’ll need to get into the workshop to get my notes on the AC readings from the stator; i think its about 22-24Vac phase- to-phase for all 3 phase. Stators are pretty tough things but heat does destroy insulation on both the stator and rotor casing shorts. Anyway, its AC, so switch your multimeter accordingly.

 

 

Charging system:

Type - A.C. magneto

Model/manufacturer - 4HC/MITSUBISHI

Normal output - 14V 16 A at 5,000 r/min

Stator coil resistance/color - 0.8 ~1.0 Ohm at 20 degC/ White – White

 

___

Rectifire/regulator:

Model/manufacturer - SH640D-12/SHINDENGEN

No load regulated voltage - 14.7

Capacity - 20A

Withstand voltage - 200Vdc

[unocvin]

Connect direct from battery poses no problems whatsoever. Besides you have relays installed in for the bulbs, no worries.

 

Fix a voltmeter if that helps your peace of mind; have a look at your battery. If it is not flat and has a bulge, likely its been cooked by a faulty R/R. My personal experience is that a faulty R/R, even though its cooking the battery will still operate properly on our stop-go traffic'd roads. This is because the charge has no chance to reach the level where it totally destroys the battery and preventing the battery to hold charge. But this was just my experience from my Mark 1.

 

If you wanna DIY, you will need space to strip some body work and also a cold engine to get some meaningful measurements on the stator resistance. Engine oil needs to be drained to access the stator. You will also need another charged battery to run the engine so that you can measure the AC voltage of the stator before it gets rectified and regulated to DC voltage.

 

Have fun, shout if you need help.

If you prefer to have someone look at it, PM me; i'll suggest a number to call.

[firestorm_33]

just remove the relays..... your problems will be automatically resolved.....

 

exactly the same problem as bomberman81....

[Guest bomerman81]

just remove the relays..... your problems will be automatically resolved.....

 

exactly the same problem as bomberman81....

 

thanks!

[Guest bomerman81]

had the electrical voltage prob but all solved when i unplugged the relay. Headlight goes back normal and also voltage no prob

[GuiNNeSS]

had the electrical voltage prob but all solved when i unplugged the relay. Headlight goes back normal and also voltage no prob

 

Headlight goes back to normal? Whats 'abnormal' in the first place?

 

I quite like the output from the twin 55/60 watt bulbs, but it seems to be draining the battery only during long rides.

 

So you're running twin 55/60 watt bulbs with stock wiring?

[firestorm_33]

Headlight goes back to normal? Whats 'abnormal' in the first place?

 

I quite like the output from the twin 55/60 watt bulbs, but it seems to be draining the battery only during long rides.

 

So you're running twin 55/60 watt bulbs with stock wiring?

 

by adding relays, you are actually forcing the headlight to draw more current from the battery to make the light brighter than its stock by a few times.

 

got chance we meet up and i show you what i meant. Mine still with the relays hence can't switch on radio with headlight together at this moment..... else the charging would not be enough.....

 

Yup.... both of us using 55/60 watts bulb cos in the first place, we tot it was 55/60.....

[unocvin]

The use of a relay is to safely divert the required current safely to protect the bulb’s filaments from breakage from high in-rush current. The contacts in the relay are manufactured to handle high in-rush current, whereas bulb’s filaments have a very finite range and are of resistive nature. It is the resistance that encourages a voltage to be supplied to overcome this resistance. In this instance the resistivity equates to “55W”; thus 55W worth of energy (approx 12V * 4.6A) is needed across the filaments to “light up” the bulb.

 

Now you have 2 of these bulbs running together, you will consume 9.2A. I don't know how much your playback equipment draws; but you add up the others: running lights, dashboard lights, ignition system etc ..you will very quickly run out of charge in the battery. The battery is rated at 10Ah?

 

Anyway, from the specs the electrical system is rated to produce 16A @ 5000 rpm. So unless you can cover enough distances to charge the battery, go easy on adding items that will run down the battery more than the system can charge it.

[firestorm_33]

The use of a relay is to safely divert the required current safely to protect the bulb’s filaments from breakage from high in-rush current. The contacts in the relay are manufactured to handle high in-rush current, whereas bulb’s filaments have a very finite range and are of resistive nature. It is the resistance that encourages a voltage to be supplied to overcome this resistance. In this instance the resistivity equates to “55W”; thus 55W worth of energy (approx 12V * 4.6A) is needed across the filaments to “light up” the bulb.

 

Now you have 2 of these bulbs running together, you will consume 9.2A. I don't know how much your playback equipment draws; but you add up the others: running lights, dashboard lights, ignition system etc ..you will very quickly run out of charge in the battery. The battery is rated at 10Ah?

 

Anyway, from the specs the electrical system is rated to produce 16A @ 5000 rpm. So unless you can cover enough distances to charge the battery, go easy on adding items that will run down the battery more than the system can charge it.

 

 

Bro,

 

You must have scored a A * for your science......

 

so detailed and scientific........

[GuiNNeSS]

Well, the idea is to get max brightness out of the headlamps, thats why I use relays to tap power straight from the battery. I don't have any audio system installed.

 

Anyways, the stock wiring harness already has headlight relays. Mines alittle intermittent.

[Guest bomerman81]

Well, the idea is to get max brightness out of the headlamps, thats why I use relays to tap power straight from the battery. I don't have any audio system installed.

 

Anyways, the stock wiring harness already has headlight relays. Mines alittle intermittent.

 

yup mine previously was also like that but since i have quite alot of mods on the bike have to take out the relay so as to let the charging of the bike run smoothly.

 

previously when i have my relays on my headlight is kinda like '04 R1 haedlights, d*mn bright sia... think i always blind those cars that r in front of me which is gd. still have the relays on my bike if u wana can try to arrange a meet out to let u c how the connection is like. think this connection is done by either taihin or kenny as the relays is installed by the previous owner!

 

cheers

[unocvin]

Today's ST Classified : Yamaha recall for TMax and Majesty 400. It should be the fuel pump issue that's on Yamaha's japan site. Do contact HL.