[Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2009 (PLS ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

[Ah Pek]

Can you advice bros here how much do you spent by changing the starter carbon ?

 

$120 or more.

[Ah Pek]

i jus haf this problem too.. to be exact.today change battery and magnetic coil cost me $400, sian

 

Take note that your battery is the Japan MF made..should last you 1-2 years if all is well. Use reliable eo to keep your new coil last a long time.

[Ah Pek]

Anyone noes what is the tyre pressure for a Spec I? Front and back tyre? Thanks.

 

I am using battlax btw.

 

No fixed rules..depending on your weight and overall load and the type of trip or usage of bikes.

 

Just as a guide..if you weight about 80 kg, front at 240 and back at 270 should be nice and comfortable. If you are using low profile and soft wompound tyres..increase by 10 for each. If you are travelling up West Malaysia for long distance ride..drop each by 10-20 and again depend on overall laod.

[Ah Pek]

Good day, guys

 

Anyone is having a problem with batteries, rectifier and magnetic coil? Just went to bike shop and they say my batteries gone, rectifier gone and magnetic coil also gone. change both batteries and rectifier but dont whether bike shop is cheating. Cos bike still can start! ANY ONE encounter this problem and care to illustrate on wat to check for? AND is there any shop where i can change magnetic coil at a cheaper price!

 

You can tell the coil is bad when it does not meet the standard charging output at about 13.8vdc.

 

You can tell that the rectifier is gone when the dc output after rectification is more than 15vdc.

 

If the rectifier is gone, its as good as continous shorted conductor and in no time will KFC your battery..new or old!

 

Magnetor coil replacement without replacing eo..non-vtec $290..vtec $310:sian:

[steel_headz]

You can tell the coil is bad when it does not meet the standard charging output at about 13.8vdc.

 

You can tell that the rectifier is gone when the dc output after rectification is more than 15vdc.

 

If the rectifier is gone, its as good as continous shorted conductor and in no time will KFC your battery..new or old!

 

Magnetor coil replacement without replacing eo..non-vtec $290..vtec $310:sian:

 

Actually hw to noe whether its time tat we need to change to rectifier n magnetic coil?

 

Is there any preventive measures?

[Ah Pek]

Actually hw to noe whether its time tat we need to change to rectifier n magnetic coil?

 

Is there any preventive measures?

 

With reference to my post, the 1st and 2nd clarify that but if you are looking for tel tale sign before it hurts your rectifier and battery..use a proper good multimeter to check the charging rate stability from 2.5k rpm thru 5k rpm..should never indicate voltage dc fluctuation below 12.8vdc to 13.2vdc..if this is the case..it's a matter of time your coil be out of commission. Healthy coil thruput is 13.6/8vdc to 14.6 vdc.

 

Reply to your 2nd question..as wif all working parts, life spand is limited and inevitably will come to an end but reliability wise, life spand can be "extended". Use good engine oil with frcition eliminator if possible.

 

Its the waer abd tear iron filings from your gear box gears, cyclinder wall and such that abrasively erodes off the laquer protective insolation copating od the inductor coil that forms the stator coil assembly (in whole..that's ur magnetic coil). When eo carries this around and move as eo flows thru its lubricating channels in an engine, it eventually carries all these fine talcum power like iron filing erroding away the laquer.

 

My bike been in its 13 years liao..haven't change coil yet..heee...x2! Check out my eo mannn!

[army_ncc]

With reference to my post, the 1st and 2nd clarify that but if you are looking for tel tale sign before it hurts your rectifier and battery..use a proper good multimeter to check the charging rate stability from 2.5k rpm thru 5k rpm..should never indicate voltage dc fluctuation below 12.8vdc to 13.2vdc..if this is the case..it's a matter of time your coil be out of commission. Healthy coil thruput is 13.6/8vdc to 14.6 vdc.

 

Reply to your 2nd question..as wif all working parts, life spand is limited and inevitably will come to an end but reliability wise, life spand can be "extended". Use good engine oil with frcition eliminator if possible.

 

Its the waer abd tear iron filings from your gear box gears, cyclinder wall and such that abrasively erodes off the laquer protective insolation copating od the inductor coil that forms the stator coil assembly (in whole..that's ur magnetic coil). When eo carries this around and move as eo flows thru its lubricating channels in an engine, it eventually carries all these fine talcum power like iron filing erroding away the laquer.

 

My bike been in its 13 years liao..haven't change coil yet..heee...x2! Check out my eo mannn!

oh. just to check with you, my voltmeter show 13.5v when i riding. is my coil alright?

[Ah Pek]

oh. just to check with you, my voltmeter show 13.5v when i riding. is my coil alright?

 

That's good. The cornern is that how accurate is your voltmeter. From my observation, there is always a +/- 1.2 volt dc reading difference and it varies from brand to brand made voltmeter that are made for in canopy uses..like for car's cockpit where it's housed and protected fro sunlight and rain.

 

If you have this mounted on bikes without proper shielding, I'm afraid that meter is just a 'guide' to your battery reading..new is ok..its after close to a year or so that reading start to get inaccurate. Unless, your's is made for outdoor uses..then you 13.5v dc reading is good size of still a healthy coil.

 

Get a good digital or analog multimeter that gives you a more precise reading...can use it to check against your mounted bike voltmeter too.

[army_ncc]

That's good. The cornern is that how accurate is your voltmeter. From my observation, there is always a +/- 1.2 volt dc reading difference and it varies from brand to brand made voltmeter that are made for in canopy uses..like for car's cockpit where it's housed and protected fro sunlight and rain.

 

If you have this mounted on bikes without proper shielding, I'm afraid that meter is just a 'guide' to your battery reading..new is ok..its after close to a year or so that reading start to get inaccurate. Unless, your's is made for outdoor uses..then you 13.5v dc reading is good size of still a healthy coil.

 

Get a good digital or analog multimeter that gives you a more precise reading...can use it to check against your mounted bike voltmeter too.

oh icic. thanks for the info. the brand of the voltmeter is mr gauge. haha. any idea is it make for outdoor? haha. i shall get my dad's multimeter to check it out. hee!

[creedmaniac]

hi guys..i just got a spec 3 recently...after a month of riding it i notice s4 got 2 common probs..chain noisy and heavy vibration on the right footrest..anyone have idea or solution how to solve the 2 problems?

[loyjwe]

my voltmeter is like wat ah pek said. connected to headlight and checked with a multimeter directly to batt, found its not tally, voltmeter showing lower at more dan 1.0.

 

just use it as a gauge.

 

btw, i realised when i park my bike at a place where there is no wind, like my multistorey carpark, its difficult to start. sometimes even until needle need swing twice.

but when i park at open carpark where there is wind, just a push of ignition, very fast start liao.

 

is this normal?

[creedmaniac]

hi guys my vtec3 head light got prob..sometime on n sometimes off by itself...usually when i just started the bike no light..after about a minute den light come out..any idea what is the problem?

[coldbarrel]

where to go for belly pan - i heard there are several types

Which shop has the largest collection of Belly Pan?

[Alvin88]

[Q] hi pple.. i'm riding a version S.. i face a problem here when riding my bike and it hit rpm 5.. there is this popping sound and lack of power but if i continue to whack till rpm 6.. then bike will shoot up a little.. so where goes wrong? please pm me!!

[Ah Pek]

hi guys my vtec3 head light got prob..sometime on n sometimes off by itself...usually when i just started the bike no light..after about a minute den light come out..any idea what is the problem?

 

Denfinitely wiring connection problem. In your case as it is intermitten, likely it can be from the headlamp socket (contact burned ot partially) to bad hardness wiring core (near the handle below just before entry to back of headlamp..copper wire may be partially broken or corroded if you bike is old..on your headlamp and shake and pull back the hardness wires to test see) or and headlamp switch (left hand assembly where the horn switch is..give some WD40 spray on).

[jongos]

[Q]hi, me new spec ii rider..wanna ask...wenever i change gear..ere's this loud 'tack tack' sound..especially from gear 1-4...5-6 is fine...i noticed from 1-3 if rpm ard 2-3..no sound...above 3rpm den can hear the 'tack tack' sound..any idea wat izzit?

 

for the fc...20km/l..izzit common?i pump 95...

Edited December 16, 2009 by jongos

[MrIce]

anyone how much to replace the left pillion footrest that whole metal joint mine went inside and almost hit the suspension...

 

and how much to bleed front and rear brake ?

[Iceachilles]

Hi, is the magnetic coil of vtec spec 1 on the left side of the engine? Must I change a gasket after removing the coil cover? Thank you.

[richard125]

[Q] can i ask you guy. do you all know what is the different between cb400 spec 1,2,3,revo?? and vtec 1 isit spec 1?

[Crazy]

[Q]

When moving off my chain whill have the tiack tiack tiack sound. Is from damage chain or spocket? If i never change it what will happen to it?

[dragonforce]

[Q] can i ask you guy. do you all know what is the different between cb400 spec 1,2,3,revo?? and vtec 1 isit spec 1?

[A]

difference is when its vtec opens.

hyper vtec: carb model. 7k rpm open vtec. aka spec1, vtec 1

spec2: carb model. 6250rpm open vtec

spec3: carb model. sharp tailboard. 1-5 open vtec and last gear open at different rpm. forgot at what rpm.

revo: efi model.

[xgstx]

[Q]

When moving off my chain whill have the tiack tiack tiack sound. Is from damage chain or spocket? If i never change it what will happen to it?

 

[A]

Chain related , probably too tight or on the verge of wearing out. Worst case senario, chain snap , call tow ^^

[SparkerS1]

[A]

difference is when its vtec opens.

hyper vtec AKA Spec I: carb model. 7k rpm open vtec. aka spec1, vtec 1

spec 2: carb model. every gear 6250rpm open vtec

spec 3: carb model. sharp tailboard. Gear 1-5 6750rpm open vtec and last gear open at 7000 rpm.

revo: efi model, vtec opening same as Spec 3

 

let me help u add on, i was waiting for ppl to ans, haha, i too lazy liaozz:cheeky:

[dragonforce]

let me help u add on, i was waiting for ppl to ans, haha, i too lazy liaozz:cheeky:

actually quite tired of answering this question already.. definitely not my 1st time answering it, but i forgot the details.. went to find for my post also cannot find.. so decided to answer once more.

 

PS: aka spec 1 i put behind my sentence lah bro. lol.

[richard125]

[A]

difference is when its vtec opens.

hyper vtec: carb model. 7k rpm open vtec. aka spec1, vtec 1

spec2: carb model. 6250rpm open vtec

spec3: carb model. sharp tailboard. 1-5 open vtec and last gear open at different rpm. forgot at what rpm.

revo: efi model.

 

i see i see thank thanks