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Posted

Wow bro, c u siggy, u bought 3sets of arai...? Is that all urs...

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/4787/wallpaperdo9.jpg

 

1999 - 2001: Yamaha TZR125

2001 - 2003: Yamaha RXZ 135 / Wave 110

2003 - 2005: Yamaha Y125Z / Yamaha X1-110

2005 - 2010: Honda PB1 CB400 / Yamaha Spark 135 LC (auto) / Mitsubishi Lancer 1.6 (Sports Version)

2010 - Current: Yamaha RXZ Catalyzer & Yamaha Jupiter MX 135

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Posted

nice topic... just nice...

 

i've problem... usually my fuse keep on blow for horn n neutral light... wat actually happen n care to advise me the problem please...?

 

Yanto S4.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/4787/wallpaperdo9.jpg

 

1999 - 2001: Yamaha TZR125

2001 - 2003: Yamaha RXZ 135 / Wave 110

2003 - 2005: Yamaha Y125Z / Yamaha X1-110

2005 - 2010: Honda PB1 CB400 / Yamaha Spark 135 LC (auto) / Mitsubishi Lancer 1.6 (Sports Version)

2010 - Current: Yamaha RXZ Catalyzer & Yamaha Jupiter MX 135

Posted (edited)

Can use 15A to replace 10A but not recommended.

 

coz my fuse blow and i only have a spare 15A fuse..

 

You could visit any motor shop to buy fuses. Worst case scenario, Autobacs. Coz I know they are open today.

 

nice topic... just nice...

 

i've problem... usually my fuse keep on blow for horn n neutral light... wat actually happen n care to advise me the problem please...?

 

Yanto S4.

 

Please do your Electrical calculation on how much Amp you need for your devices. Every equipment will come with a "stamp" on the device or manual to say how much it draws out. It is not that difficult actually. Re-wiring might help. From what I can deduce, are you tapping your horn's power for the neutral light? It is best if you could rewire and add an additional fuse just for the horns.

Edited by IvikaRazI

* Suzuki GSR750

----------------------------

http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-metric2/196279.png

Posted

hmmm... dat's very cool of the answer bro... advise me on re-wiring for the electrical system please...?

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/4787/wallpaperdo9.jpg

 

1999 - 2001: Yamaha TZR125

2001 - 2003: Yamaha RXZ 135 / Wave 110

2003 - 2005: Yamaha Y125Z / Yamaha X1-110

2005 - 2010: Honda PB1 CB400 / Yamaha Spark 135 LC (auto) / Mitsubishi Lancer 1.6 (Sports Version)

2010 - Current: Yamaha RXZ Catalyzer & Yamaha Jupiter MX 135

Posted
Sure, too bad it happened on the first day of CNY!! What a thing to start the "new year".

 

Anyone knows what's the worst case scenario? :lol:

 

U said u just bought it..... So y not go to the bike shop again n check wif them......

 

M i rite?

Rider Can Be Driver, But Driver Cannot Be Rider......

Posted
hmmm... dat's very cool of the answer bro... advise me on re-wiring for the electrical system please...?

 

Not the whole electrical system of coz that would take weeks. For instance, you install a horn which is of a higher rating then the current one. You could use a relay and tap the power for the horns from the battery. Make sure there is a fuse between the horn and the battery.

* Suzuki GSR750

----------------------------

http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-metric2/196279.png

Posted

my friend s4 spec 2 has got a pop pop sound while riding,any guys has any idea what might be the cause?its only on certain gear..

Class 2B September 12 2007 Honda SP FR8*2*B

 

Class 2A September 30 2008 Honda RVF FP6*2*C

Posted

worst case senarios?

 

1. Its the EO leaking. U ride around with insufficient EO and the engine block kaput. U can overhaul. Monitor the EO light on ur dashboard.

 

2. Its coolant. U ride around with the bike overheating. Engine block also can kaput. Check your coolant reservoir now. Refer to manual whcih can be downloaded on sbf.

 

3. Its someone else leaving residue behind-U scared yourself for nothing.

 

Did I miss anything out?

P-plate should be an attitude to safety and riding. There's always more to learn.

 

10417710_10152885054228332_2597706433133321618_n.jpg?oh=a3e4c65165b15e5d659161c304211563&oe=54FB0965

Posted

what kind of pop pop sound? comes from where de? does the pop pop sound come from exhaust? when the rpm drops when you close throttle after high rev?

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t286/modenaboi/signature.jpg

 

Practical Test Checklist:

√ Sudden and late braking

√ Faulty signal lights

√ Superb use of horn

√ Assume road belongs to father

√ Never at fault no matter what happens

√ Tailgating confidence

Result: YES! You qualify to become a Singapore car driver!

Posted
Just went to pump my tyres pressure but to no avail.

 

Was riding SP and it was only a single disc brake and pro arm so it's easy to pump with the long stick.

 

Now S4 has double disc brake and no pro arm, and the stick to pump the pressure is kinda long. I couldn't put the whole stick in.

 

Anyone can help this n00b here?? Thanks!

 

go caltex.. i know some of the caltex air pump doesn't use the long stick.. juz a small connector with a fastener only.. duno whether it applies to all caltex

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t286/modenaboi/signature.jpg

 

Practical Test Checklist:

√ Sudden and late braking

√ Faulty signal lights

√ Superb use of horn

√ Assume road belongs to father

√ Never at fault no matter what happens

√ Tailgating confidence

Result: YES! You qualify to become a Singapore car driver!

Posted

yah! my spec 2 also riding got some kind of tick tick and pop pop sound around below fuel tank.. when road bumpy the sound will have 3-5 times pop pop sound

2007-2008 == Honda (FX^^^M)

2008-2008 == Kawasaki (FV^^^^M)

2008-2010 == Honda (FU^^^^K)

2010-201? == Suzuki (FBB^^^D)

Posted

Maybe the bike hiccups...hehehe...Anyway I think the Air-Fuel ratio maybe too rich. Causing unburned fuel to burn at unknown places. Its a guess for me only dun flame hor.

 

Tuning the carbs will help to stabilize matter. Do correct me (if I am wrong) or add-on.

* Suzuki GSR750

----------------------------

http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-metric2/196279.png

Posted
U said u just bought it..... So y not go to the bike shop again n check wif them......

 

M i rite?

 

Nope you're wrong. I got it from this forums and the shop I always go to is closed for CNY...

 

worst case senarios?

 

1. Its the EO leaking. U ride around with insufficient EO and the engine block kaput. U can overhaul. Monitor the EO light on ur dashboard.

 

2. Its coolant. U ride around with the bike overheating. Engine block also can kaput. Check your coolant reservoir now. Refer to manual whcih can be downloaded on sbf.

 

3. Its someone else leaving residue behind-U scared yourself for nothing.

 

Did I miss anything out?

 

So in any case the light on the dashboard will light up before anything serious gets coming right?

 

Anyway, took some pictures this afternoon. This is what I get after parking the bike for 2 - 3 hours. It looks kinda brownish + blackish + a little greenish if I'm not wrong.

 

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/101_2594.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/101_2595.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/101_2596.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/101_2597.jpg

 

Anyone can advise if this is indeed engine oil? Thanks.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/IMG_4518-1-1.jpg
Posted
Nope you're wrong. I got it from this forums and the shop I always go to is closed for CNY...

 

 

 

So in any case the light on the dashboard will light up before anything serious gets coming right?

 

Anyway, took some pictures this afternoon. This is what I get after parking the bike for 2 - 3 hours. It looks kinda brownish + blackish + a little greenish if I'm not wrong.

 

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/101_2594.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/101_2595.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/101_2596.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/101_2597.jpg

 

Anyone can advise if this is indeed engine oil? Thanks.

 

air filter oil ...

 

bro, contact me, meet me and let me check and end ur problem la... :giddy:

AMKS4 Riders, Gathering S4 Riders of our Tomato Land

- My current ride, Honda CB 400 Super 4 Hyper VTEC. More pictures @ friendster.com/s4vtec -

http://photos-566.friendster.com/e1/photos/66/56/31526566/1_265855588l.jpg

- Feel free to contact Thomas aka s4vtec @ 969-11-787 should you have any questions about your S4. -

Posted
any one know where to get gd n cheap front disk brake for super 4 vec3..?

 

try those aftermarket ones dat unique is selling lor. $60 per disc if i rem correctly.

 

[Q]

how much does it cost to replace the rear wheel bearing?

my spec3 wobbles above 70kmh.

i think less than 30 bucks

u need to be young and reckless to become old and wise..... if u survive :angel:

 

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b169/gwzc_mk2/IMG_4576-1.jpg

Posted
Just went to pump my tyres pressure but to no avail.

 

Was riding SP and it was only a single disc brake and pro arm so it's easy to pump with the long stick.

 

Now S4 has double disc brake and no pro arm, and the stick to pump the pressure is kinda long. I couldn't put the whole stick in.

 

Anyone can help this n00b here?? Thanks!

i changed my valve to those "L" shape type. makes pumping tires so much easier. and no need to fear burning urself with the exhaust when u reach in to pump.

u need to be young and reckless to become old and wise..... if u survive :angel:

 

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b169/gwzc_mk2/IMG_4576-1.jpg

Posted
go caltex.. i know some of the caltex air pump doesn't use the long stick.. juz a small connector with a fastener only.. duno whether it applies to all caltex

 

Hmm, never been to Caltex. I'll try to recce around nevertheless. Thanks for the info!

 

i changed my valve to those "L" shape type. makes pumping tires so much easier. and no need to fear burning urself with the exhaust when u reach in to pump.

 

How much does it cost to change to these?

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/IMG_4518-1-1.jpg

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