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[Technical] Engine Oil - All related matters in EO


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Posted

Lets get things organised. Please add on to the list. Try to keep it alphabetically arranged thank you! :smile:

 

Strictly for TA200 riders reviews only

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Bel-Ray-96262-Thumper-20W50-4-Stroke-Racing-Motor-Oil-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Belray thumper 20w50(Unique motorsports/hkl) $18

Hydher - After 1000k,gear shifting was slick 4.5/5

 

 

 

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_malaysia/STAGING/local_assets/images/products/mco_power14t_malaysia_375x253.jpg

Castrol Power 1 15w40 (Thailand) 100 baht / S$4.26

VidaK - Gear changing is a little stiff, engine sounds rough and top speed is much lower than before 2/5

jianping - worst EO on my bike, engine feels less powerful,noisy and rough.. need to throttle alot more to attain 90km/hr on expressway.. avoid this.. i bought at $12.. 1/5 :nono:

 

 

 

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_IHSFI5DXqm4/ShF8-VdH1fI/AAAAAAAADmQ/rMjBbBzoXdw/s512/DSC00359.JPG

Chessa Chex 9000 10w50 (planet) $16

VidaK - No gear changing problems, or other problems. Although there is more vibration then quality oils, it is good value for your money 4/5

jtzx- Great fully syn Eo. which is value for money which can last at least 2.5k millege 5/5

armani123sg- gd, no problems but didnt feel any diff comparing to FUCHS brand.

 

 

FUCHS [Which series?]15w50 (planet) $10

Hydher - I hated it after 1k, gear changing was rough as hell and stuck at neutrals 2/5

armani123sg- gd, no problems but didnt feel any diff comparing to CHEX brand.

 

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-32901-Maxum4-Extra-100-Synthetic-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil-15W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 15w50 extra (planet) $21

VidaK - no problems with the bike, but compared to the chex, this oil lost outright since its much more expensive... 3/5

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-35901B-Maxum4-Synthetic-Blend-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil-20W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 20w50 synblend (planet) $15

Hydher - Was used for long distance travelling. Was soso. 4/5

nuttybing - can feel the roughness in changing gears after around 1300km, so so only 3/5

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-36901-Maxum4-Ultra-100-Synthetic-High-RPM-Formula-4-Stroke-Racing-Motor-Oil-5W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 5w50 ultra (planet) $23

VidaK - No doubt it is a good oil, but it is a little expensive 3.5/5

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_0237.jpg

Mobil 20w50 $7

Pending reviews

 

http://www.motul.com.sg/product_line_up/4stroke/images/product_images/300V_4T_FACTORYLINE_15W50.jpg

Motul 300v 15w50 (planet) $28

VidaK - The smoothest is unreal. In fact top speed increased. 4.5/5

 

http://www.motul.com.sg/product_line_up/4stroke/images/product_images/5100_4T_15W50_1L_A.jpg

Motul 5100 15w50 (semi)

nuttybing - Gear changing is really smooth, can feel the power along with the throttle, around 2000km can feel it deteriorating 4/5

 

 

 

NASA [Which series?]10w40 (planet) $10

Hydher - Not bad in all rounders even price. 4/5.

jtzx - pick up quite bad but over all good.. 3.5/5

armani123sg- acceleration faster, nicer sound, better than the FUCHS and CHEX but my FC decrease from usually 40km/hr on FUCHS/CHEX to 37km/hr on NASA... :)

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_9969.jpg

Putoline SUPER DX 4 SEMI SYN $8 LAB

Rating 2.5/5. Useable for 2k and you get what you pay for.

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_0242.jpg

Total 15w50 $8.90

Pending reviews

 

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd246/tosco1122/HR50white.jpg

Verity 15w50 fully synthetic (planet) $26

VidaK - It is very good, but not the best. Quite expensive also... 3.5/5

 

 

 

 

is that true ?. the level of EO when using semi oil drop faster then FUlly EO??

 

Semi EO oil level around 1200km will drop more then semi EO. because it's thicker or something?

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

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Posted

Guys, went i wan to take my bike, i saw EO stain on the floor.. which is drip from my bike. do anyone face the same problem ? And what the possibility that cause the dripping.

 

Thanks

Determination is the wake up call to the human will..

 

2006 - SP150

2007 - Phantom TA200

2013 - Yamaha R15

 

[/img]

Posted
Guys, went i wan to take my bike, i saw EO stain on the floor.. which is drip from my bike. do anyone face the same problem ? And what the possibility that cause the dripping.

 

Thanks

 

this is very serious. something is leaking somewhere... are you sure that it is EO from your bike? not some stains left behind by someone else? or could it be petrol, not EO?

 

when the engine is cooled, sit on the bike in the riding position, and check the dipstick. the dipstick is at the right side of the engine, where you top up EO... wipe the stick dry with a piece of tissue and dip it into the engine, without screwing it in. then take it out again and see if the EO level is between the maximum and minimum markings.

 

if the EO level drops below the minimum level... your bike is in trouble... do NOT start the engine... you would need to either top up more EO or tow the bike to your workshop...

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted
this is very serious. something is leaking somewhere... are you sure that it is EO from your bike? not some stains left behind by someone else? or could it be petrol, not EO?

 

when the engine is cooled, sit on the bike in the riding position, and check the dipstick. the dipstick is at the right side of the engine, where you top up EO... wipe the stick dry with a piece of tissue and dip it into the engine, without screwing it in. then take it out again and see if the EO level is between the maximum and minimum markings.

 

if the EO level drops below the minimum level... your bike is in trouble... do NOT start the engine... you would need to either top up more EO or tow the bike to your workshop...

 

comfirm is from my bike.. the stain black black de.. should be EO bahh..

i think i will do it later this afternoon.. i hope my bike in no trouble man.. haha..

 

thanks anyway.

Determination is the wake up call to the human will..

 

2006 - SP150

2007 - Phantom TA200

2013 - Yamaha R15

 

[/img]

Posted

one of the most common mistake of new riders is always put in too much EO....then u see puddles on the floor where the bike is park.

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

Hey guys, erm I did something but don't know if did the right thing? I was on my way home today, but before i rode, i checked the engine oil dipstick, and found it to be at a really low level as in XXXX-D-I-P-S-T-I-C-K and the oil was barely at the low line.

 

So I rode to the nearby petrol stations, considering today was a public holiday, doubted if I could find a garage and didn't want to take the risk, and as I was along upper thomson road, went to the 3 petrol stations side by side, Shell-Esso-Caltex, to search for engine oil. And bought the most expensive one cause well, I'm narrow minded, I assume most expensive is best quality? :shy:

 

And bought the Shell Advaned Ultra 4 fully synthetic, anyone used before care to comment on whether it was worth its $25.10?

 

http://image.rakuten.co.jp/advance/cabinet/ultra4photo-new10.jpg

"Wolves and sheep will live together in peace, and leopards will lie down with young goats, calves and lion cubs will feed together, and little children will take care of them. Cows and bears will eat together, and their calves and cubs will lie down in peace." Isaiah 11:6-8

 

http://s-ak.buzzfed.com/static/imagebuzz/web02/2010/9/8/17/be-an-optimist-prime-4756-1283979887-3.jpg

Posted

Let me put things in perspective for you:

 

1) You were worried about the lo level of EO of your bike

2) It was a public holiday & you did not want to wait another day for bike shops to open

3) You mentioned it is your nature to buy the most expensive coz you think it means it the best

4) You spent $25.10

5) Your low level EO problem was solved.

 

Just based on point #4 & #5, I'll say it was worth it.

Keep things simple. Money spent, problem solved. Done deal.

BlackDawn aka kiamh

"There is no man more free than the one who doesn't give a damn what society thinks of him"

Posted

A good perspective by BD. What mileage have u traveled on the EO before checking the dipstick? Was bike upright when checking?

 

On whether it was worth $25.10, I feel that you will feel better on motul, amsoil, mobil 1 and maxima fully synthetic on that price.

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

Posted

To BD: hmmm, fair point thanks =)

 

Hydher: pushing 2K? And yeap, I straightened it for about 3 minutes, before checking. And yes, considering I didn't see this thread mention anything bout the oil, in any case, I'll try it out a couple of weeks, and post a review or something =)

 

Thanks again all

"Wolves and sheep will live together in peace, and leopards will lie down with young goats, calves and lion cubs will feed together, and little children will take care of them. Cows and bears will eat together, and their calves and cubs will lie down in peace." Isaiah 11:6-8

 

http://s-ak.buzzfed.com/static/imagebuzz/web02/2010/9/8/17/be-an-optimist-prime-4756-1283979887-3.jpg

Posted

manual states 4k but levels drop alot when at 2k alr.

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

Posted

I dare not run for 4K without changing, I once forgot to change engine oil until 3K the oil come out already very black... :sian:

 

At 2.5K already quite black, so now I am back to changing at every 2K.

Motorcyclist are the nicest people on the road, try not to kill us.

Posted

:dot:

I dare not run for 4K without changing, I once forgot to change engine oil until 3K the oil come out already very black... :sian:

 

At 2.5K already quite black, so now I am back to changing at every 2K.

 

the state of EO can give u a clue to the condition of your engine and the environment of the ride..ie how u ride and the environment condition.

 

Beside the colour ...i would feel its viscosity..if its high ..in dusty and harsh envronmnt i would expect it. On the other hand if its the opposite and vicosity is high, its time to look out fro the cause of this ...this sticky fluid indicates that the oil properties is fading fast..sometimes little observations like this can help to identifiy to avoid expensive repairs.

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey guys,

 

I went to HL Cycle today to get my oil changed as it is about time - gear changing was sick, vibrations were immense and generally not having a good ride.

 

The kind folks at HL Cycle said that the TA200 requires 1.3L instead of 1L of EO. So I went ahead and purchase two bottles and used 1.3L or so.

 

Ride is smooth and good now.

 

Is 1.3L really necessary though?

Posted
Hey guys,

 

I went to HL Cycle today to get my oil changed as it is about time - gear changing was sick, vibrations were immense and generally not having a good ride.

 

The kind folks at HL Cycle said that the TA200 requires 1.3L instead of 1L of EO. So I went ahead and purchase two bottles and used 1.3L or so.

 

Ride is smooth and good now.

 

Is 1.3L really necessary though?

 

Maximum is 1.5L. Minimum is 1L. I always put 1L when in singapore. But when going touring I put 1.4L. This bike is very famous for "makan" engine oil"

Selling JBL amplifier

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253308

 

****************************************

http://dogshit2.multiply.com/

Posted
Orh okay can. Just curious ah, cause new rider. Btw, Motul 300W is smooooooth man.

 

you probably meant 300V... my favourite EO :smile:

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted
you probably meant 300V... my favourite EO :smile:

 

300v kinda expensive at almost $30...

 

 

for my TA150, motul 5100 works great on it. just wondering instead of EO can i use transmission fluid instead since the EO is mainly for the lubrication of the gears on TA150 engine.

Class 2B - 26/03/2009

Class 2A - 01/06/2010

Class 3 - 10/07/2009

 

Rides(s)

1) Honda TA150 - 20/04/2009 to 31/08/2014

2) Honda CB400 Ver S - 12/07/2014 to ???

Posted
300v kinda expensive at almost $30...

 

 

for my TA150, motul 5100 works great on it. just wondering instead of EO can i use transmission fluid instead since the EO is mainly for the lubrication of the gears on TA150 engine.

 

*very BAD advice... please do NOT try*

 

since your bike isn't very expensive... why not try used frying oil from mcdonald's... :cheeky:

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted
*very BAD advice... please do NOT try*

 

since your bike isn't very expensive... why not try used frying oil from mcdonald's... :cheeky:

 

no thanks, the c70 cub might be able to run on it...muahaha! :box:

Class 2B - 26/03/2009

Class 2A - 01/06/2010

Class 3 - 10/07/2009

 

Rides(s)

1) Honda TA150 - 20/04/2009 to 31/08/2014

2) Honda CB400 Ver S - 12/07/2014 to ???

Posted

You can try gear oil.

 

Motul 300v are like insurance. heh. too expensive for me to play with atm.

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

Posted
Hey guys,

 

I went to HL Cycle today to get my oil changed as it is about time - gear changing was sick, vibrations were immense and generally not having a good ride.

 

The kind folks at HL Cycle said that the TA200 requires 1.3L instead of 1L of EO. So I went ahead and purchase two bottles and used 1.3L or so.

 

Ride is smooth and good now.

 

Is 1.3L really necessary though?

 

Maximum is 1.5L. Minimum is 1L. I always put 1L when in singapore. But when going touring I put 1.4L. This bike is very famous for "makan" engine oil"

 

 

1L is the recommended replacement amount after draining the oil from your sump, not the minimum amt.

The reason why you feel less vibration when you add more EO is because the higher levels of fluid in the crankcase further dampens movement is causing more retardation to the moving engine parts.

I do not recommend adding more than the recommended 1L EO even if your engine is known to "consume" EO. The higher levels of EO increases pressure within the engine while it is in operation. The higher than normal pressure can adversely your piston rings or bring about other kinds of accelerated wear and tear. Check your oil levels regularly to determine the rate at which your EO level reduces, then you will learn when you need to top it up (i.e 3 weeks once, 1 month once). Slight reduction for the MAX level of the dip stick is normal and it is ok as long as your oil levels stay within the MAX and MIN levels of the dip stick (provided you follow the correct procedure of checking). If you are topping up to MAX regularly within your 2000km oil change interval because your oil levels keep dropping below MIN, the source of your problems run deeper.

 

These are suggestions that aim to benefit. Follow at your own wish.

If any may disagree they are also entitled to their opinions, just dun be surprised if one finds EO leaking from their gaskets :lol:.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/4974036153_c36bbcded6.jpg

 

Life isn't all about one's self...

Posted
Hey guys,

 

I went to HL Cycle today to get my oil changed as it is about time - gear changing was sick, vibrations were immense and generally not having a good ride.

 

The kind folks at HL Cycle said that the TA200 requires 1.3L instead of 1L of EO. So I went ahead and purchase two bottles and used 1.3L or so.

 

Ride is smooth and good now.

 

Is 1.3L really necessary though?

1.2L is the max recommended amount ..this is when the engine is truly,100% EMPTY..when changing eo. but there is eo still in the engine when u empty it..it coats and clings on to the parts and the internal surfaces, grooves, fins, etc...the manufacturerer estimate this adds up to 200ml. Thus 1L EO change

is sufficient.

 

since u top up 1.3L during the change..expect the following:

1. eo leakages..it will stop eventually after the excess had been vented out.

2. loss of power...the increase internal pressure in the crank case created as a result of this excess EO..will directly act against the engine power output..ie..the engine has to work harder to overcome the high internal pressure..

3. increase FC.

4. Possibility of degrading other pressure sensitve components in the engine like seals and the such..

 

the advantage is that you get a quieter/smoother ride in most cases..but it is not worth it..

i would remove the excess eo...by using a small pump to extract the EO from the dip stick hole. i use the manual pump found in the shampoo/bath botlles.

this pump is very handy for removing or adding EO without making a mess of it.

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

Thanks for the response guys.

 

Jialat already like that. That means those chaps at HL Cycle recommended an excess of what is safe for my ride. Sigh.

Posted

Lets get things organised. Please add on to the list. Try to keep it alphabetically arranged thank you! :smile:

 

Strictly for TA200 riders reviews only

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Bel-Ray-96262-Thumper-20W50-4-Stroke-Racing-Motor-Oil-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Belray thumper 20w50(Unique motorsports/hkl) $18

Hydher - After 1000k,gear shifting was slick 4.5/5

 

 

 

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_malaysia/STAGING/local_assets/images/products/mco_power14t_malaysia_375x253.jpg

Castrol Power 1 15w40 (Thailand) 100 baht / S$4.26

VidaK - Gear changing is a little stiff, engine sounds rough and top speed is much lower than before 2/5

jianping - worst EO on my bike, engine feels less powerful,noisy and rough.. need to throttle alot more to attain 90km/hr on expressway.. avoid this.. i bought at $12.. 1/5 :nono:

 

 

 

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_IHSFI5DXqm4/ShF8-VdH1fI/AAAAAAAADmQ/rMjBbBzoXdw/s512/DSC00359.JPG

Chessa Chex 9000 10w50 (planet) $16

VidaK - No gear changing problems, or other problems. Although there is more vibration then quality oils, it is good value for your money 4/5

jtzx- Great fully syn Eo. which is value for money which can last at least 2.5k millege 5/5

armani123sg- gd, no problems but didnt feel any diff comparing to FUCHS brand.

 

 

FUCHS [Which series?]15w50 (planet) $10

Hydher - I hated it after 1k, gear changing was rough as hell and stuck at neutrals 2/5

armani123sg- gd, no problems but didnt feel any diff comparing to CHEX brand.

 

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-32901-Maxum4-Extra-100-Synthetic-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil-15W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 15w50 extra (planet) $21

VidaK - no problems with the bike, but compared to the chex, this oil lost outright since its much more expensive... 3/5

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-35901B-Maxum4-Synthetic-Blend-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil-20W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 20w50 synblend (planet) $15

Hydher - Was used for long distance travelling. Was soso. 4/5

nuttybing - can feel the roughness in changing gears after around 1300km, so so only 3/5

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-36901-Maxum4-Ultra-100-Synthetic-High-RPM-Formula-4-Stroke-Racing-Motor-Oil-5W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 5w50 ultra (planet) $23

VidaK - No doubt it is a good oil, but it is a little expensive 3.5/5

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_0237.jpg

Mobil 20w50 $7

Pending reviews

 

http://www.motul.com.sg/product_line_up/4stroke/images/product_images/300V_4T_FACTORYLINE_15W50.jpg

Motul 300v 15w50 (planet) $28

VidaK - The smoothest is unreal. In fact top speed increased. 4.5/5

 

http://www.motul.com.sg/product_line_up/4stroke/images/product_images/5100_4T_15W50_1L_A.jpg

Motul 5100 15w50 (semi)

nuttybing - Gear changing is really smooth, can feel the power along with the throttle, around 2000km can feel it deteriorating 4/5

 

 

 

NASA [Which series?]10w40 (planet) $10

Hydher - Not bad in all rounders even price. 4/5.

jtzx - pick up quite bad but over all good.. 3.5/5

armani123sg- acceleration faster, nicer sound, better than the FUCHS and CHEX but my FC decrease from usually 40km/hr on FUCHS/CHEX to 37km/hr on NASA... :)

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_9969.jpg

Putoline SUPER DX 4 SEMI SYN $8 LAB

Rating 2.5/5. Useable for 2k and you get what you pay for.

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_0242.jpg

Total 15w50 $8.90

jtzx - Bought this at carefour for only $5.90 for my DIy oiler.

 

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd246/tosco1122/HR50white.jpg

Verity 15w50 fully synthetic (planet) $26

VidaK - It is very good, but not the best. Quite expensive also... 3.5/5

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

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