[Technical] Engine Oil - All related matters in EO

[jevan]

damn, next time i'll tell him and repeat that i only want 1l. i change it every 2000km anyway. plus minus 100k.

[lycan]

Lets get things organised. Please add on to the list. Try to keep it alphabetically arranged thank you!

 

Strictly for TA200 riders reviews only

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Bel-Ray-96262-Thumper-20W50-4-Stroke-Racing-Motor-Oil-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Belray thumper 20w50(Unique motorsports/hkl) $18

Hydher - After 1000k,gear shifting was slick 4.5/5

 

 

 

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_malaysia/STAGING/local_assets/images/products/mco_power14t_malaysia_375x253.jpg

Castrol Power 1 15w40 (Thailand) 100 baht / S$4.26

VidaK - Gear changing is a little stiff, engine sounds rough and top speed is much lower than before 2/5

jianping - worst EO on my bike, engine feels less powerful,noisy and rough.. need to throttle alot more to attain 90km/hr on expressway.. avoid this.. i bought at $12.. 1/5

 

 

 

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_IHSFI5DXqm4/ShF8-VdH1fI/AAAAAAAADmQ/rMjBbBzoXdw/s512/DSC00359.JPG

Chessa Chex 9000 10w50 (planet) $16

VidaK - No gear changing problems, or other problems. Although there is more vibration then quality oils, it is good value for your money 4/5

jtzx- Great fully syn Eo. which is value for money which can last at least 2.5k millege 5/5

armani123sg- gd, no problems but didnt feel any diff comparing to FUCHS brand.

 

 

FUCHS [Which series?]15w50 (planet) $10

Hydher - I hated it after 1k, gear changing was rough as hell and stuck at neutrals 2/5

armani123sg- gd, no problems but didnt feel any diff comparing to CHEX brand.

 

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-32901-Maxum4-Extra-100-Synthetic-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil-15W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 15w50 extra (planet) $21

VidaK - no problems with the bike, but compared to the chex, this oil lost outright since its much more expensive... 3/5

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-35901B-Maxum4-Synthetic-Blend-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil-20W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 20w50 synblend (planet) $15

Hydher - Was used for long distance travelling. Was soso. 4/5

nuttybing - can feel the roughness in changing gears after around 1300km, so so only 3/5

 

http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Aftermarket-Motorcycle-Products/Chemicals-Lubricants/4-Stroke-Motor-Oil/Maxima-36901-Maxum4-Ultra-100-Synthetic-High-RPM-Formula-4-Stroke-Racing-Motor-Oil-5W50-1-Liter-Bottle.jpg

Maxima 5w50 ultra (planet) $23

VidaK - No doubt it is a good oil, but it is a little expensive 3.5/5

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_0237.jpg

Mobil 20w50 $7

Pending reviews

 

http://www.motul.com.sg/product_line_up/4stroke/images/product_images/300V_4T_FACTORYLINE_15W50.jpg

Motul 300v 15w50 (planet) $28

VidaK - The smoothest is unreal. In fact top speed increased. 4.5/5

 

http://www.motul.com.sg/product_line_up/4stroke/images/product_images/5100_4T_15W50_1L_A.jpg

Motul 5100 15w50 (semi)

nuttybing - Gear changing is really smooth, can feel the power along with the throttle, around 2000km can feel it deteriorating 4/5

 

http://www.motorcycle-road-and-race.co.uk/catalog/images/7100-full-synthetic-ester-motul-4l.jpg

 

Motul 7100 10w40 100% Syn Ester $22

lycan - still trying it out. feels smoother than Motul 5100.

 

 

 

NASA [Which series?]10w40 (planet) $10

Hydher - Not bad in all rounders even price. 4/5.

jtzx - pick up quite bad but over all good.. 3.5/5

armani123sg- acceleration faster, nicer sound, better than the FUCHS and CHEX but my FC decrease from usually 40km/hr on FUCHS/CHEX to 37km/hr on NASA...

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_9969.jpg

Putoline SUPER DX 4 SEMI SYN $8 LAB

Rating 2.5/5. Useable for 2k and you get what you pay for.

 

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff37/hydher/bike/IMG_0242.jpg

Total 15w50 $8.90

jtzx - Bought this at carefour for only $5.90 for my DIy oiler.

 

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd246/tosco1122/HR50white.jpg

Verity 15w50 fully synthetic (planet) $26

VidaK - It is very good, but not the best. Quite expensive also... 3.5/5

[dareV]

isit nesssary to bleed the entire used eo and filled with new eo...

can i jus top up to the optimal level as and when required.

for eg. under controlled condition using the same brand of eo always,

will there be any underlying effect on the "topping up" for long run

(i dun mind drop down to p****t every month or every 2kkm but only wkend avalible ah, &the Q there, is really even raining day....)

 

 

cheers

Edited October 28, 2009 by dareV

[FMC]

Hi guys.. I'm changing my EO soon.. Any1 wanna follow????

[jtzx]

isit nesssary to bleed the entire used eo and filled with new eo...

can i jus top up to the optimal level as and when required.

for eg. under controlled condition using the same brand of eo always,

will there be any underlying effect on the "topping up" for long run

(i dun mind drop down to p****t every month or every 2kkm but only wkend avalible ah, &the Q there, is really even raining day....)

 

 

cheers

 

from my understanding, 4T needed to be drain out. Unless piston spoilt. Then you should keep on topping up the EO..

 

you need to totally drain out the 4t EO as they contain "metal" contents from piston.

[VidaK]

isit nesssary to bleed the entire used eo and filled with new eo...

can i jus top up to the optimal level as and when required.

for eg. under controlled condition using the same brand of eo always,

will there be any underlying effect on the "topping up" for long run

(i dun mind drop down to p****t every month or every 2kkm but only wkend avalible ah, &the Q there, is really even raining day....)

 

 

cheers

 

from my understanding, 4T needed to be drain out. Unless piston spoilt. Then you should keep on topping up the EO..

 

you need to totally drain out the 4t EO as they contain "metal" contents from piston.

 

used EO MUST be drained!! the oil will break down over time making it corrosive... and of course as jtzx said there are metal particles and etc crap floating around...

 

Hi guys.. I'm changing my EO soon.. Any1 wanna follow????

 

aiya just changed today...

[dareV]

used EO MUST be drained!! the oil will break down over time making it corrosive... and of course as jtzx said there are metal particles and etc crap floating around...

 

 

 

aiya just changed today...

 

hehe, thanks jtzx and VidaK for the valuable information, guess die die have to take Annual Leave/MC next week to change the EO.

[armani123sg]

hehe, thanks jtzx and VidaK for the valuable information, guess die die have to take Annual Leave/MC next week to change the EO.

 

since u only wanna change EO, why u dun just go to other bike shops on a sat? i'm sure there r trustable bike shops to do EO change which r open on saturdays.

[VidaK]

hehe, thanks jtzx and VidaK for the valuable information, guess die die have to take Annual Leave/MC next week to change the EO.

 

just in case you didn't know... planet is open on saturdays also... for saturdays try go at 9.30am...

[dareV]

since u only wanna change EO, why u dun just go to other bike shops on a sat? i'm sure there r trustable bike shops to do EO change which r open on saturdays.

 

i live at west area, dint see much good reviews regards the motordiam ard my area... think i saw 1-2 good recommended ones but the location is ulu ulu.. my sense of direction very jialat, later struck in the industrial area don't know return home ..hehe...

P***** its quite far,but i can find my way out easily

[dareV]

just in case you didn't know... planet is open on saturdays also... for saturdays try go at 9.30am...

 

i know got open on satudays, hehe... got other commitment on saturdays atm... hence weekday will be my best day for my next "checkup"

hope can clear off the work on hand den join u guys and admire all e nice nice ride u all have....

[VidaK]

i live at west area, dint see much good reviews regards the motordiam ard my area... think i saw 1-2 good recommended ones but the location is ulu ulu.. my sense of direction very jialat, later struck in the industrial area don't know return home ..hehe...

P***** its quite far,but i can find my way out easily

 

i know got open on satudays, hehe... got other commitment on saturdays atm... hence weekday will be my best day for my next "checkup"

hope can clear off the work on hand den join u guys and admire all e nice nice ride u all have....

 

directional sense very jialat...? dun worry... lemme help you...

 

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_991007228l.jpg

 

sure... one day we will meet...

[FSbiker]

I got a question. Is engine oil for 2 stroke bikes 4T Oil?

[VidaK]

I got a question. Is engine oil for 2 stroke bikes 4T Oil?

 

yes it should be...

[Ah Pek]

I got a question. Is engine oil for 2 stroke bikes 4T Oil?

 

Engine oil for 2 stroke bikes are the same as the engine oil for four stroke..but if the bottle labeled 2T..that's is 2T for a2 stroke bike premixed injection to your cyclinder. In summary, 2T is for fuel premixed to cyclinder and engine is for the gear box.

[Ah Pek]

so which EO is the best for our beloved ta200? lol. i used to be using Maxima Synblend, but changed it to Chex 9000 after reading this review but i felt that i had more difficulty changing gears. so i was wondering whether if it's a coincidence that it's time my clutch plate should be changed or should i use a different EO. haha. please advise. ty with much appreciation!

 

There are one brand too many eo on the market and as to mark which one is the best, one has to raelly know what's inside and that suit your riding style. While most off the shelf eo is suitable for new bikes..but as your bike ages..not really all off the shelf eo would suit it status either..even with multigrade range as all bikes conditions wear and tear varies. To find one that suitable, the best bet is know how to blend for yourself.

 

Idf any of you have confidence in my recommendation, can try my specially blended fully synthetic eo with "ester" and mixed with "X-1R" (a friction eliminator for old bikes. The result is smoothness, quieter engine, maxs protection and performance improvemnet you can feel while it doubles your eo change intervals.. Those Super 4 owners have tried and proven. Have a go at it and let yourself speak for yourself.

 

Pm me if any of you is interested.

[ckoonyin]

just changed my EO yesterday and the Mech poured in 1.3l inside for me. While i understand many PK bros and sister here would advocate using 1l only, but just curious, as Phantoms drink EO, would it be ok to leave the extra0.3l inside so as to compensate of the lost of EO?

 

Or it would be best for me to remove the extra?

 

Btw, i changed it to Motul 300 and can really feel the reduction in vibrations and was definately a smoother ride so far in comparision to my previous EO

[VidaK]

just changed my EO yesterday and the Mech poured in 1.3l inside for me. While i understand many PK bros and sister here would advocate using 1l only, but just curious, as Phantoms drink EO, would it be ok to leave the extra0.3l inside so as to compensate of the lost of EO?

 

Or it would be best for me to remove the extra?

 

Btw, i changed it to Motul 300 and can really feel the reduction in vibrations and was definately a smoother ride so far in comparision to my previous EO

 

1.3 litres is more or less ok... usually the actual amount of EO to be replaced is 1.2 litres... just check your dipstick whether the level of EO exceed the maximum level of EO for the engine by a large margin...

 

motul 300v... my personal favourite... I alternate it for my phantom and I use only 300v for my gp bike

[jtzx]

how do you define "exceed the maximum level of EO for the engine by a large margin?"

 

mine is about "half a Cm" after the max level shown in the dipstick =D

[ckoonyin]

1.3 litres is more or less ok... usually the actual amount of EO to be replaced is 1.2 litres... just check your dipstick whether the level of EO exceed the maximum level of EO for the engine by a large margin...

 

motul 300v... my personal favourite... I alternate it for my phantom and I use only 300v for my gp bike

 

oh ok tat does really put my mind at ease

 

specially if it comes from Vidak hahaha

[VidaK]

how do you define "exceed the maximum level of EO for the engine by a large margin?"

 

mine is about "half a Cm" after the max level shown in the dipstick =D

 

5mm...? should still be ok...

 

oh ok tat does really put my mind at ease

 

specially if it comes from Vidak hahaha

 

you flatter me...

[mepkoh]

it is best to keep to the manufacturers reccomendation ..any thing above the max level will reduce performance ......

off course there will be no damage unless u fill it up so much that froth is being generated at crank bearings...or that excessive pressure in sump may degrade the seals in the engine...IMHO..

best is still remove it and top up as and when neccessary..

[Hydher]

If your phantom is eating too much eo, get the oil seals fixed.

One Litre and replace every 4000km is the ta200 manual reccomendation with regular check of the dipstick and top up if needed.

Personally, i Change per 2000km with semi syn oil. Checking every 700km

[tankee1981]

I have difficulty shifting gears nowadays, last time i will just go change EO then will solve the problem.

 

But i have read that change only after 2000km, but the last time i have change is last month and that is definitely less than 1000km since then. So does that mean my bike have some problem?

 

I will like to add that my bike have problems(vibrating and struggling) to reach beyond 100km/h even at 6th gear which is highly unusual. Last night i ride with a TA200 from a junction and he overtook me rather easily even with a guy as pillion.

 

Pls advise!

[mepkoh]

good shifting of gears..condition of gears/clutch have to be reasonably good conditions in order to have smooth shifting in the first place..it seems that you have dfiiculty even with a recent eo change only indicates a clutch adjustment or clutch/spring/gears are wearing off..u mentioned vibrations..some times it is caused by lousy eo..

i would do the following..

check that my clutch cables are adjusted properly..according to the recommended slack

of 5mm gap at rest..

IF unable to this indicates some thing is not right at the gears area..some times teh cables are jammed around the bends when it is not installed correctly with sufficient clearances..

the vibrations could just be a simple case of clutch plates need to be replaced as they are worn out.thus loosing power transmission and end end up as vibrations.

 

might as well take a look in at the filter ..clean or changed as neccessary...a choked filter will caused the engine to run out off breath so to speak when u accelerate ..one of symtom is that of back firing..or take a look at your exhaust for any carbon build up-- a clear sign of a rich mix ( could be a carb or filter problem).

 

when was thelast time u have replaced the spark plug?? is it time for a change?

 

hope one off the above will solve the problem..good luck.