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Posted
I tot I said the same thing? :confused: Rectifier and regulator is the same thing rite? Max voltage 14V is consider not very good lioz. Manual states:

 

Regulated voltage output : 14V - 16V @ 3000rpm.

 

But I believe unless your harness got change before or you redo your harness it's quite hard to get 16V. If you're getting ard 15V consider very good lioz for 20yr old bike/harness.

15-16V consider very good :thumb:

 

nv more than than 17v, CDi will gone 1st:faint:

 

 

i have change the cap and the problem still gt. my cap cannot cover fully the radiator, that y coolant will flow to reservior, tinnk really need to change radiator. and ytd gt one seller wanna sell one radiator for $550. damn ex lor.

S$550:faint:

dont buy 1st....

 

new fabricate about $300-400 copper radiator.( i need check 1st)

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Posted
I tot I said the same thing? :confused: Rectifier and regulator is the same thing rite? Max voltage 14V is consider not very good lioz. Manual states:

 

Regulated voltage output : 14V - 16V @ 3000rpm.

 

But I believe unless your harness got change before or you redo your harness it's quite hard to get 16V. If you're getting ard 15V consider very good lioz for 20yr old bike/harness.

 

yeah.. i can only get 16v if i off my headlights lol.. on headlight usually abt 13.5v at 3500+rpm above

The RR on my Fireblade represents "Race Replica"

Posted
Cooling system got "Regulator"? :giddy:

The only part I can guess you're toking about is the water pump, but water pump where got $70? 2nd hand maybe have.

 

 

 

What is this part ah? Really nv see b4. 7cm I can guess it's either the water pump or thermostat but got hollows?

 

Hmm, either pump or thermostat :confused:.. lolx. Its not that expensive la...

Bike shop tends to mark up many percentage points ya... 100% above a normal profitable price is not abnormal.:gun:

Life is like a box of chocolate...

Posted
yeah.. i can only get 16v if i off my headlights lol.. on headlight usually abt 13.5v at 3500+rpm above

 

About voltage... mine triple digits one. Around 135 - 140. If drop till 110,my Bike will auto shut down and i will have problem starting. Thats why i dun really wanna on my headlights. lolx.

Rectifier and batt change le... still like this.:slapforehead:

Life is like a box of chocolate...

Posted
now i dun travel more than 100km. and keeping topping up my reservior. but the mech that deal with my bike say that the radiator cap there corrode, need to change, that y coolant keep flowing to the reservior

 

Same here la.... then u'll end up changing the whole thing parts by parts. lolx:cry:

Life is like a box of chocolate...

Posted
About voltage... mine triple digits one. Around 135 - 140. If drop till 110,my Bike will auto shut down and i will have problem starting. Thats why i dun really wanna on my headlights. lolx.

Rectifier and batt change le... still like this.:slapforehead:

 

litar pintas.......

:faint:

Posted
About voltage... mine triple digits one. Around 135 - 140. If drop till 110,my Bike will auto shut down and i will have problem starting. Thats why i dun really wanna on my headlights. lolx.

Rectifier and batt change le... still like this.:slapforehead:

 

can check ur wiring. last time i on head light also consume alot of voltage, same as u, change battery but still gt problem, untiil i ask them check my wiring, then now ok already.

Be safe than be sorry, be sorry than be slow, be slow then be safe.

Posted
can check ur wiring. last time i on head light also consume alot of voltage, same as u, change battery but still gt problem, untiil i ask them check my wiring, then now ok already.

 

Check your wiring? Did they rewire??? How much they charges you for it? What did they change??? Did it take a long time for them to solve it?

Life is like a box of chocolate...

Posted
nv see coolday online today.

 

bro...i at reservist la.....today stay out....tomolo staying in den fri book out again monday start stay in whole week till friday.....sianzzz....

July2004 - dec2007 ->NSR150SP (FU**29B)

April2008 - April2010 ->CBR400RRR (FP**86R)

April2010 - April 2011 ->SYM GTS200(FBB**09U)

April2011 - Currently ->S4SPEC1(FT**56J)

 

If you think you are beaten, YOU ARE

if you think you will lose, YOU HAVE LOST

if you think you cant, YOU DEFINATELY WON'T

SUCCESS only comes to the man WHO BELIEVES HE CAN!

Posted
yeah.. i can only get 16v if i off my headlights lol.. on headlight usually abt 13.5v at 3500+rpm above

 

Wah I think consider super good lioz leh.

 

...what i know is.. If my fan is on, my signal light is on, my brake light is on and my headlight is on.... My bike will auto shut off. ~hahahahaha

 

I can predict when you selling your bike, nobody wanna buy. :cheeky:

 

Guess those ppl that is too happy to get a fireblade will reconsider after seeing all the problems that we r currently trying to solve. lolx

 

I nv regreted buying my fireblade. Nv. :thumb:

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9845/skeletonnc29.jpg
Posted
isnt it that way ? not sure who told me tat. any advise ?

 

now i dun travel more than 100km. and keeping topping up my reservior. but the mech that deal with my bike say that the radiator cap there corrode, need to change, that y coolant keep flowing to the reservior

 

i have change the cap and the problem still gt. my cap cannot cover fully the radiator, that y coolant will flow to reservior, tinnk really need to change radiator. and ytd gt one seller wanna sell one radiator for $550. damn ex lor.

 

initially, the 1st post was telling mi that the rad spoil without checking the cap 1st.. my mistake.. after u post the last few msg, then understand yr situation better.. for yr case, even rebuild the rad may not solve the problem.

cos the person rebuild it will hav to use the existing casing of the rad which include the opening that cover by the rad cap.

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
Wah I think consider super good lioz leh.

 

 

 

I can predict when you selling your bike, nobody wanna buy. :cheeky:

 

 

 

I nv regreted buying my fireblade. Nv. :thumb:

 

same here bro...though there are problems here and there...i will choose anytime a cbr over rvf or s4

July2004 - dec2007 ->NSR150SP (FU**29B)

April2008 - April2010 ->CBR400RRR (FP**86R)

April2010 - April 2011 ->SYM GTS200(FBB**09U)

April2011 - Currently ->S4SPEC1(FT**56J)

 

If you think you are beaten, YOU ARE

if you think you will lose, YOU HAVE LOST

if you think you cant, YOU DEFINATELY WON'T

SUCCESS only comes to the man WHO BELIEVES HE CAN!

Posted
Aiyoh.. It is caused by a bloody regulator la. When High Rev... The regulator will be activated causing the coolent to flow faster. IF that regulator spolit... The coolent will flow to the reservior and thus will leak out!

 

Normally the coolent will circulate and will not overload the reservior....

Not need change the stupid raidiator. The Regulator cost below SGD 70.00 only.

 

To test whether the stupid regulator is werking or not... The mechanic will rev up your engine de. To test the flow (to and fro) is well..

 

... Am simply using the word "regulator" for an intergrated part within the coolent system. The one that u are pointing belongs to the electrical system ba.

Anyway, for the coolent one is a solid metal piece about 7cm long with hollows.. Quite easy to take out ... So not much labour cost involved.

 

i think yr "regulator" is thermostat..

how the mech see the flow of the water thru a small hole??

normally is take it out and put it in the hot water.. it will expand..

when the coolant isn't that hot, the flow is restricted by half.. and coolant is hot, the flow is full..

the checking of flow thru the hole can onli for pump checking and gasket checking..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted

guys, recently when i clutch in to change gears, like the gear stuck then got this very loud sound, then i have to clutch in again and kick.. anyone experienced before? i just change fully synthetic engine oil... hmm. could it be gearbox issue?

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=375&pictureid=2285
Posted
wat happened to my rvf last time was coolant boiled n overflow from the reservoir.. dun think got anything to do wif high rev or wat ba..

most probably is temp too high ba... but now temp goes up faster than last time by alot

Be safe than be sorry, be sorry than be slow, be slow then be safe.

Posted
bro...i at reservist la.....today stay out....tomolo staying in den fri book out again monday start stay in whole week till friday.....sianzzz....

 

oh ya, i forget abt u having reservist. then take care yourself and enjoy:cheeky:

Be safe than be sorry, be sorry than be slow, be slow then be safe.

Posted (edited)
initially, the 1st post was telling mi that the rad spoil without checking the cap 1st.. my mistake.. after u post the last few msg, then understand yr situation better.. for yr case, even rebuild the rad may not solve the problem.

cos the person rebuild it will hav to use the existing casing of the rad which include the opening that cover by the rad cap.

:)

 

thanks for ur advise. that y i have no choice but to change the whole radiator. i was searching for a 2nd hand radiator and this person come quote me $550 for a 2nd hand radiator, that was too damn ex. think i will go slowly goes search around... and keep topping up my coolant

Edited by NSRR150SlowRider

Be safe than be sorry, be sorry than be slow, be slow then be safe.

Posted
Wah I think consider super good lioz leh.

 

 

 

I can predict when you selling your bike, nobody wanna buy. :cheeky:

 

 

 

I nv regreted buying my fireblade. Nv. :thumb:

 

same here bro...though there are problems here and there...i will choose anytime a cbr over rvf or s4

 

me too, i nv regret buying cbr cause i have know a good group of trustworthy of frenx here. which i dun s4 and rvf rider can give me. even though my cbr gt minor problem, but in the long run, i feel that it is worth it

Be safe than be sorry, be sorry than be slow, be slow then be safe.

Posted

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd183/mzul/CBR400/23062009_001.jpg

 

my bike as per today..

L model with R model fairing set and subframe.

 

to those who helped me to completing my bike project...thanks a lot..!!!!

 

..fx110, fdsa, mitsui_kobe..

 

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/8093/sbfo.jpg

F3 Showa Monoshock | NC35 4-pot Caliper | Goodridge Steel Braided Hose | NC35 Master Cylinder | Battlax BT016/BT090 | Yoshimura Catalyzed Racing | Digital Voltmeter | K&N Air Filter

Posted
guys, recently when i clutch in to change gears, like the gear stuck then got this very loud sound, then i have to clutch in again and kick.. anyone experienced before? i just change fully synthetic engine oil... hmm. could it be gearbox issue?

 

titik geseran clutch dekat sangat kot?

check tenggok clutch adjuster, biasa ada kelegaan 10-25mm.

:)

Posted
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd183/mzul/CBR400/23062009_001.jpg

 

my bike as per today..

L model with R model fairing set and subframe.

 

to those who helped me to completing my bike project...thanks a lot..!!!!

 

..fx110, fdsa, mitsui_kobe..

 

 

motor kuat bro:thumb:

Posted
guys, recently when i clutch in to change gears, like the gear stuck then got this very loud sound, then i have to clutch in again and kick.. anyone experienced before? i just change fully synthetic engine oil... hmm. could it be gearbox issue?

 

Oh yaeh.. Am currently facing this issue too. i think u could change the "teeth" inside the gear box. My friend did it for his RvF coz also have the same problem. Dun cosr much $$$. Below SGD 100 can le. =)

Life is like a box of chocolate...

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