-=BabyBlade=-(CBR)

[Nels0n]

any vehicle radiator will do ??

i need to change one cause, when rev high, coolant frm radiator tend to flow back to my reservior, and thus flooding my reservior and leak. In the end i ride with little coolant in my radiator, and engine very hot, on fan also no use.

 

wat happened to my rvf last time was coolant boiled n overflow from the reservoir.. dun think got anything to do wif high rev or wat ba..

[mitsui_kobe]

tired tired just reached home.. need to go xifu there to check up on my rear brakes or rear brake dise.. annoyiny sound coming from there.. steering cone also got knocking sound.. sianz ar.. lol.. need to do up bike b4 going for our melaka trip..

[Kelvin-]

IMHO headlight color shouldn't be an issue. I HAD been using philips diamondvision (White) for 3yrs. No issue. Din blow or anything, I'm not using it anymore coz I stupid drop one of it during my DIY session.

 

White light - 12V 60W/55W

Normal light 12V 60W/55W

 

Both same mah. Only difference is the color temperature.

 

I'm now using a 35W/35W normal light (orange) like what bro fx110 is using. Maybe you can try it also. He mentioned is not very bright, but seems to me is quite bright leh.

 

where you buy them?

 

Hi Kelvin,

 

Dun worry... it will slowly recover.

 

Due to vehicle inspection was nearing at that time while my white light bulb not giving out any lights or high beam or flickle light most of the times(sometimes got light for a min or two only) I changed to normal light instead thinking that maybe the bulb is spolit.

 

But after i've switched to it... AT first have light but then in a day or two also sometimes have light and sometimes no light. lolx.

But since have to send for inspection and kinda late le... So i no choice and just try my luck. During there, i kept playing with the switch till the lights came out... Many on/off trys.

 

The problem persisted till a week or two later... And now, its woking great. =)

 

still under observation now. lol

[fx110]

tired tired just reached home.. need to go xifu there to check up on my rear brakes or rear brake dise.. annoyiny sound coming from there.. steering cone also got knocking sound.. sianz ar.. lol.. need to do up bike b4 going for our melaka trip..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/fx110/Melaka13140908/Image009-1.jpg

 

waiting for the trip

[fx110]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/fx110/Melaka13140908/1_318452014l.jpg

 

must go

[vin82]

of course..now he driving lo...tt mr kien long his good buddy..haha

 

Ooh . so you know him . haha .

 

 

nice place

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/fx110/Melaka13140908/1_318452014l.jpg

 

must go

[NSRR150SlowRider]

who told u that theory?

 

isnt it that way ? not sure who told me tat. any advise ?

[lsoul]

haha yeah.. how can we not know him. the 2 racers who love to disturb rvf

[Kelvin-]

i love the snowy signature

[NSRR150SlowRider]

guess the whole of sg rain heavily today.

[noobofnoob]

haha yeah.. how can we not know him. the 2 racers who love to disturb rvf

 

disturb rvf ? now i guess i know why he kinda say NO to mi buyin rvf at first . haha . its a waste he drive now . hopefully he come back ridin soon but on the safer ridin side now .

[RYAN KEITH SMITH]

wat happened to my rvf last time was coolant boiled n overflow from the reservoir.. dun think got anything to do wif high rev or wat ba..

 

Aiyoh.. It is caused by a bloody regulator la. When High Rev... The regulator will be activated causing the coolent to flow faster. IF that regulator spolit... The coolent will flow to the reservior and thus will leak out!

 

Normally the coolent will circulate and will not overload the reservior....

Not need change the stupid raidiator. The Regulator cost below SGD 70.00 only.

[RYAN KEITH SMITH]

Aiyoh.. It is caused by a bloody regulator la. When High Rev... The regulator will be activated causing the coolent to flow faster. IF that regulator spolit... The coolent will flow to the reservior and thus will leak out!

 

Normally the coolent will circulate and will not overload the reservior....

Not need change the stupid raidiator. The Regulator cost below SGD 70.00 only.

 

To test whether the stupid regulator is werking or not... The mechanic will rev up your engine de. To test the flow (to and fro) is well..

[RYAN KEITH SMITH]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/fx110/Melaka13140908/Image009-1.jpg

 

waiting for the trip

 

Same here... I think the sound got something to do with the brakes.

[RYAN KEITH SMITH]

isnt it that way ? not sure who told me tat. any advise ?

 

For the time being.

 

Never leave the resevior empty. And Dun travel too fast or far.

Travel normal speed... Fan can surely cool it de.

[kaznad]

Aiyoh.. It is caused by a bloody regulator la. When High Rev... The regulator will be activated causing the coolent to flow faster. IF that regulator spolit... The coolent will flow to the reservior and thus will leak out!

 

Normally the coolent will circulate and will not overload the reservior....

Not need change the stupid raidiator. The Regulator cost below SGD 70.00 only.

 

Regulator/Rectifier spoil got link with cooling system meh?

 

Regulator is to convert the AC volatage to DC voltage which then allows to charge the battery rite. It's other purpose is to ensure that the voltage is regulated btw 14-16V rite? What has this to do with the coolent going back to the reservoir? If coolant is going back to the reservoir should be the radiator cap spoil bah. Try change and see? Less then $10 I think.

[AkalaPovic]

Regulator/Rectifier spoil got link with cooling system meh?

 

Regulator is to convert the AC volatage to DC voltage which then allows to charge the battery rite. It's other purpose is to ensure that the voltage is regulated btw 14-16V rite? What has this to do with the coolent going back to the reservoir? If coolant is going back to the reservoir should be the radiator cap spoil bah. Try change and see? Less then $10 I think.

 

Ur right.. however i believe its the rectifier tat is ensuring the maximum voltage is 14v.

[RYAN KEITH SMITH]

Regulator/Rectifier spoil got link with cooling system meh?

 

Regulator is to convert the AC volatage to DC voltage which then allows to charge the battery rite. It's other purpose is to ensure that the voltage is regulated btw 14-16V rite? What has this to do with the coolent going back to the reservoir? If coolant is going back to the reservoir should be the radiator cap spoil bah. Try change and see? Less then $10 I think.

 

... Am simply using the word "regulator" for an intergrated part within the coolent system. The one that u are pointing belongs to the electrical system ba.

Anyway, for the coolent one is a solid metal piece about 7cm long with hollows.. Quite easy to take out ... So not much labour cost involved.

[RYAN KEITH SMITH]

And ya.. could change the radiator cap together too. radiator cap cost less than SGD 10.00. Though mostly coolent stuff involves many other components.

 

Many Parts wear and tear easily. Lifespan of most parts easily last 1 to 2yrs.

[kaznad]

Ur right.. however i believe its the rectifier tat is ensuring the maximum voltage is 14v.

 

I tot I said the same thing? Rectifier and regulator is the same thing rite? Max voltage 14V is consider not very good lioz. Manual states:

 

Regulated voltage output : 14V - 16V @ 3000rpm.

 

But I believe unless your harness got change before or you redo your harness it's quite hard to get 16V. If you're getting ard 15V consider very good lioz for 20yr old bike/harness.

[NSRR150SlowRider]

For the time being.

 

Never leave the resevior empty. And Dun travel too fast or far.

Travel normal speed... Fan can surely cool it de.

 

now i dun travel more than 100km. and keeping topping up my reservior. but the mech that deal with my bike say that the radiator cap there corrode, need to change, that y coolant keep flowing to the reservior

[NSRR150SlowRider]

Regulator/Rectifier spoil got link with cooling system meh?

 

Regulator is to convert the AC volatage to DC voltage which then allows to charge the battery rite. It's other purpose is to ensure that the voltage is regulated btw 14-16V rite? What has this to do with the coolent going back to the reservoir? If coolant is going back to the reservoir should be the radiator cap spoil bah. Try change and see? Less then $10 I think.

 

i have change the cap and the problem still gt. my cap cannot cover fully the radiator, that y coolant will flow to reservior, tinnk really need to change radiator. and ytd gt one seller wanna sell one radiator for $550. damn ex lor.

[kaznad]

... Am simply using the word "regulator" for an intergrated part within the coolent system. The one that u are pointing belongs to the electrical system ba.

 

Cooling system got "Regulator"?

The only part I can guess you're toking about is the water pump, but water pump where got $70? 2nd hand maybe have.

 

Anyway, for the coolent one is a solid metal piece about 7cm long with hollows.. Quite easy to take out ... So not much labour cost involved.

 

What is this part ah? Really nv see b4. 7cm I can guess it's either the water pump or thermostat but got hollows?

[kaznad]

i have change the cap and the problem still gt. my cap cannot cover fully the radiator, that y coolant will flow to reservior, tinnk really need to change radiator. and ytd gt one seller wanna sell one radiator for $550. damn ex lor.

 

I think almost can get new one at that price. Let me guess the person selling is in SBF also rite? Nick start with v rite?

[NSRR150SlowRider]

I think almost can get new one at that price. Let me guess the person selling is in SBF also rite? Nick start with v rite?

 

wah, u think the same as me ... haha... cause i know 1st hand is 600, i told him too expensive, will check around the price of 2nd hand radiator then compare then let him know. but he told me he is not in sbf.

Edited June 24, 2009 by NSRR150SlowRider