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Posted

Battery was tested ok, so changed out the coil. The senior mechanic asked me why changed coil and he commented normally the cable that gives problem.

Anyway, changed the coil for RM480, original according to the boss..

Probably battery if push start ok. Just change battery first. A lot cheaper than the coil.
Posted
Battery was tested ok, so changed out the coil. The senior mechanic asked me why changed coil and he commented normally the cable that gives problem.

Anyway, changed the coil for RM480, original according to the boss..

 

There is a proper troubleshooting for coil fault. But if you have no more problems after changing the coil, I guess you just got lucky. Else it'll be quite a wasteful amount spent.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
I just noticed I can smell petrol if I sniff very near the tank cap. Is this normal? No leakage right?

I used to have this problem, try looking at your fuel tube. It might leak from there.

Posted
I just noticed I can smell petrol if I sniff very near the tank cap. Is this normal? No leakage right?

 

if you aren't smoking while riding, there shouldn't be any problem. The fuel cap has a rubber ring (washer) and over time it becomes compressed and loses some of its ability to air-seal the tank. There's no replacement for this seal, and you need to change out the entire fuel cap if its really an issue for you. You will end up with an additional key since the keys (to fuel cap, ignition, helmet lock, handlebar lock) are identical.

 

Alternatively, you can find a plastic cover (peanut butter jam jar) and use it to cover your fuel cap. Depends on your creativity, it may look quite nice too.

Posted

Anyone encounter changing carbon brush 2 times within 3 months ??

 

Recently about 2-3 weeks I just change my carbon, but just today my carbon just used up.

 

This morning I started is was just fine, then suddenly I stall just outside my main road and I can't start, have to push start.

 

Is it normal ?

Posted

It's not normal. Unless you crank a lot each time you start. But if you do, your battery can't take it also. Or it could be your starter solenoid is fused which results in the starter motor continuous running even when engine is running.

 

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

Posted

some question guys,

 

my headlight recently just changed, but the low beam keep no light, need change to high beam then got light.

why like that ah?

Posted

Bulb fused. Take out the bulb and see. If one of the filament dangling means I'm right.

 

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

hi guys,

 

experience my first skid today as i break too hard to avoid redlight camera.

fishtail and skidded off with my pillion.

no major damage to the bike, except some cosmetic scratches.

what do i do next? how/where do i access the damage and should i send it to chong to access it?

 

thanks and ride safe!

Posted

Just check your handlebar, signal lights and whether your fuel tank suffered any dents which might break or cause fuel to leak. If handlebar is out of alignment, suggest you get it towed to planet to change or ride carefully and slowly to change.

 

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

Posted

If its just the risers knocked out of alignment, ah chong will probably help you adjust it back for free. But if the handlebar is bent even slightly, you will need to change a new one as the handlebar is a hollow bar and cannot be bent back to original shape.

 

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

Posted

I got a problem here, my ta200 very difficult to start. Battery change, cranking ok, plug ok but it simply can't start. Kindly advice. Thank you in advance

Posted

hi jey,

 

that day also happen same problem to me, end up is the magnetic coil, costs about 260$ for mine to change.

might wanna look into that.

Posted

when u say cranking Ok meaning 1. starter motor got spin and 2. do u here the "eik eik " sound when u usually start engine? Also 3. can push start?

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

Posted
when u say cranking Ok meaning 1. starter motor got spin and 2. do u here the "eik eik " sound when u usually start engine? Also 3. can push start?

 

the starter spin strongly, do have the eik eik sound, and also can push start. kindly advice.

Posted
hi jey,

 

that day also happen same problem to me, end up is the magnetic coil, costs about 260$ for mine to change.

might wanna look into that.

 

thanks for the advice

Posted

Some troubleshooting guide.

 

1st and foremost, make sure you don't wear out the battery by trying too hard to electric start. If your battery is already flat, might be worthwhile for you to bring it back home to charge if you have a 12v adaptor. Else you can always dismantle it and bring it to a bike shop to do it for you.

 

 

If the starter motor cranks, but the engine does not persist, i.e. you hear the cranking sound, but the acceleration just doesn't continue after you release the start button

 

1. Check fuel line. The rubber hose that leads to your petcock (off, reserve, on valve). Make sure pet cock is in 'on' position. Pull off the rubber hose and see whether there is petrol coming out. Must be quick cos if there is petrol, you need to quickly shove the pipe back to its original position.

2. Check idle acceleration know screw/ throttle line. The 'idle' acceleration is maintained by a black screw knob. A combination of very low idle settings plus broken throttle line is also a cause of engine not starting

3. Check sparkplug. If plug is blackish, or melted at the head. Plug needs to be changed. However, if plug looks normal, (a bit brownish or black is ok), then there may be a few possibilities

4. Pull out the sparkplug cable and insert a sparkplug into the holder. Place the sparkplug touching the engine chassis and press the start button. If you see the sparking on the plug, then your magnetic coil/ starter coil is ok. You can move on to test others.

5. At this juncture, you probably need some basic electrical knowledge to further troubleshoot. But you have already isolated the problems away from most other commons issues. There are a few other things which could cause a TA200 not to start

(a) Engine Cut-off switch shorted. The switch is a simple circuit breaker to the ignition. In essence, when the switch is "off - allowing engine to run", the circuit is closed to allow power to ignition. In cases where there is a short due to wear and tear or simply poor contacts release, the circuit may be rendered open despite the engine cut off switch being in "off- allowing engine to run" position.

(b) Relay bundle for vehicle wire harness. There is a bundle of relays under the left front chrome cover which handles the grounding and operation of the switches. It's a hardly replaced part and sometimes when one of them fails (detectable using voltmeter to test), you get funny problems like persistent fusing of headlight/ tail light/ blinker lights, or even just the spark coil going on and off randomly.

© Starter Relay Solenoid - This is the relay switch under the right chrome cover. It's protected by a 15A fuse and the vehicle main electrics are going through it. In extremely rare cases, where you have shorted it (like me), it acts up randomly to prevent latching (meaning engine can't start).

 

Here's some price guides for the various issues

 

1. Started relay solenoid - $45 per pc

2. Relays at bundles - $20 per pc

3. Engine cutoff (replace entire switch) - buy from scrapyard cheaper cos its plug and play

4. Magnetic coil - expect anything from $140 to $300. Advisable to change to original Honda for TA200. There are 3 models I know of, (i) OEM; (ii) Honda generic (iii) Honda TA200 original. The price for original is the most expensive. And changing the coil requires opening of the crankcase which will in turn require oil to be changed and crankcase gasket to be replaced.

5. Throttle cable - can't remember. Think its around $20 but it was a long time since i ever changed one and the last change i did was at a black shop.

Posted

do ur spark test first. Starter motor is fine and can engage starter clutch. could be just weather cold also. Also try open throttle slightly while cranking. If start easier meaning just a/f issue or just too cold.

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

Posted
Some troubleshooting guide.

 

1st and foremost, make sure you don't wear out the battery by trying too hard to electric start. If your battery is already flat, might be worthwhile for you to bring it back home to charge if you have a 12v adaptor. Else you can always dismantle it and bring it to a bike shop to do it for you.

 

 

If the starter motor cranks, but the engine does not persist, i.e. you hear the cranking sound, but the acceleration just doesn't continue after you release the start button

 

1. Check fuel line. The rubber hose that leads to your petcock (off, reserve, on valve). Make sure pet cock is in 'on' position. Pull off the rubber hose and see whether there is petrol coming out. Must be quick cos if there is petrol, you need to quickly shove the pipe back to its original position.

2. Check idle acceleration know screw/ throttle line. The 'idle' acceleration is maintained by a black screw knob. A combination of very low idle settings plus broken throttle line is also a cause of engine not starting

3. Check sparkplug. If plug is blackish, or melted at the head. Plug needs to be changed. However, if plug looks normal, (a bit brownish or black is ok), then there may be a few possibilities

4. Pull out the sparkplug cable and insert a sparkplug into the holder. Place the sparkplug touching the engine chassis and press the start button. If you see the sparking on the plug, then your magnetic coil/ starter coil is ok. You can move on to test others.

5. At this juncture, you probably need some basic electrical knowledge to further troubleshoot. But you have already isolated the problems away from most other commons issues. There are a few other things which could cause a TA200 not to start

(a) Engine Cut-off switch shorted. The switch is a simple circuit breaker to the ignition. In essence, when the switch is "off - allowing engine to run", the circuit is closed to allow power to ignition. In cases where there is a short due to wear and tear or simply poor contacts release, the circuit may be rendered open despite the engine cut off switch being in "off- allowing engine to run" position.

(b) Relay bundle for vehicle wire harness. There is a bundle of relays under the left front chrome cover which handles the grounding and operation of the switches. It's a hardly replaced part and sometimes when one of them fails (detectable using voltmeter to test), you get funny problems like persistent fusing of headlight/ tail light/ blinker lights, or even just the spark coil going on and off randomly.

© Starter Relay Solenoid - This is the relay switch under the right chrome cover. It's protected by a 15A fuse and the vehicle main electrics are going through it. In extremely rare cases, where you have shorted it (like me), it acts up randomly to prevent latching (meaning engine can't start).

 

Here's some price guides for the various issues

 

1. Started relay solenoid - $45 per pc

2. Relays at bundles - $20 per pc

3. Engine cutoff (replace entire switch) - buy from scrapyard cheaper cos its plug and play

4. Magnetic coil - expect anything from $140 to $300. Advisable to change to original Honda for TA200. There are 3 models I know of, (i) OEM; (ii) Honda generic (iii) Honda TA200 original. The price for original is the most expensive. And changing the coil requires opening of the crankcase which will in turn require oil to be changed and crankcase gasket to be replaced.

5. Throttle cable - can't remember. Think its around $20 but it was a long time since i ever changed one and the last change i did was at a black shop.

 

Thank you for the detailed explanation.

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