YZF-R15 rider, GATHER!!!

[SPINERGY]

Kokwei289, u have any more questions? Just say them out ok

[tzh]

I just got my R15 ytd , how to properly take care of it as im new to bike and know nothing about it. Thanks in advance

[foxin]

I just got my R15 ytd , how to properly take care of it as im new to bike and know nothing about it. Thanks in advance

 

You can try to read through the owner's manual on the "breaking into engine" part that explains 0km - 500km under 5.5rpm and 501km - 1000km under 7rpm. Engine oil and oil filter change every one segment is done. Use mineral oil then after 1000km use fully or semi syn.

That is the process of getting your piston to set into the blok. An important process that ensures your bike lives longer.

 

Nothing much in particular you need to pay extra attention. This bike is pretty much the most balance bike you can ever have for 2B apart from the counterpart cbr150r.

Else, observe engine oil change every 1,5000 or 2000 km and oil filter change every 2 or 3 oil change. Different school of thoughts different method. I have friends who doesnt change their engine oil for months and rode everyday, still working fine.

Treat it will respect, love it.. ride it as often as you can. Dont leave it expose, cover it with bike cover.. wash it, talk to it and it will respect your pocket.

 

ANything more else cannot be expanded here but you can ask anything and at best it could be explain to you. Else, submit your FB acct through private message and I'll add you into the FB R-series for more info.

[tzh]

Oh my ... I have been riding at 6-7rpm for 100km now .. For the engine oil and oil filter change do i change it myself or do i have to go down to work shop and get them to change for me ? If workshop then how much would it cost as I'm afraid to get cheated and what is "bike servicing" ?

[FiR15]

hi. i am riding a R15 v1 bike . just wanna ask if we can cut short our rear mudguard? or maybe there is another alternative like maybe install those kind of mudguards dat the v2 have? ive seen some v1 r15 modifying their rear mudguard .. may i know which shop can i go ?

 

2ndly, do you know where they sell our front bubble that is tinted or black in color ?

[jerried]

Hi just placed a downpayment for r15 at m1 motoring. May I know r15 what are the vital parts to check when collecting the bike? I know need to check tires, apart from that any experience r15 riders can share?

[chiaph]

Hi just placed a downpayment for r15 at m1 motoring. May I know r15 what are the vital parts to check when collecting the bike? I know need to check tires, apart from that any experience r15 riders can share?

 

check the inner of the tank with a flashlight to ensure it isn't rusty. lookout for zero miles on the meter. lookout for cracks in the fairings and also th tread on the tires. also lookout for rusty chain.

[mikeyseow]

hi all! im totally new to this forum and im currently still taking my class 2b lessons at SSDC. Am looking forward to getting R15 as my first bike. Will be taking my TP early next year!

 

just wondering if i should get a totally new R15 V2 or a second hand R15 V1. And i've got loads to learn about bikes cos im totally new to this awesome machine here!

[kokwei289]

may i know where to get mineral oil for r15v2 ? because my reaching 1ooo km soon .. what kind is consider mineral oil ? currently i using tutrtle wax for polish . the most basic one cost about 11 dollar for one tub quite worth .. chagning of engine oil and oil filter is pretty easy just follow the book .. dun need take out fairing or anything .. hi add in facebook group - [email protected]

[kokwei289]

Maybe by then you can get a Second hand version two.V1 EASY TO BUY BUT I THINK HARD TO SELL. And the pick up is not as good as v2 if both stock. V2 have bigger rear tire and that really help a lot in safety and handling

hi all! im totally new to this forum and im currently still taking my class 2b lessons at SSDC. Am looking forward to getting R15 as my first bike. Will be taking my TP early next year!

 

just wondering if i should get a totally new R15 V2 or a second hand R15 V1. And i've got loads to learn about bikes cos im totally new to this awesome machine here!

[mikeyseow]

Maybe by then you can get a Second hand version two.V1 EASY TO BUY BUT I THINK HARD TO SELL. And the pick up is not as good as v2 if both stock. V2 have bigger rear tire and that really help a lot in safety and handling

 

haha hopefully by then i'd be able to find someone selling off their V2 luh! I'm trying to read the forums and learn how to handle these machines and what are the things to take note in terms of maintenance and performance.

 

if all goes well, i'd be able to get my license latest by march 13.

 

though right now, my friend's trying to convince me to get the aprilla rs 125.

[kokwei289]

the one reason you will see people selling next year for version two is they pay by installment and face some financial problem. Aprilla take off sure will be faster but fuel consumption higher. Is better to take more common bike part easier to find

haha hopefully by then i'd be able to find someone selling off their V2 luh! I'm trying to read the forums and learn how to handle these machines and what are the things to take note in terms of maintenance and performance.

 

if all goes well, i'd be able to get my license latest by march 13.

 

though right now, my friend's trying to convince me to get the aprilla rs 125.

[kokwei289]

the one reason you will see people selling next year for version two is they pay by installment and face some financial problem. Aprilla take off sure will be faster but fuel consumption higher. Is better to take more common bike part easier to find

haha hopefully by then i'd be able to find someone selling off their V2 luh! I'm trying to read the forums and learn how to handle these machines and what are the things to take note in terms of maintenance and performance.

 

if all goes well, i'd be able to get my license latest by march 13.

 

though right now, my friend's trying to convince me to get the aprilla rs 125.

[foxin]

Maybe by then you can get a Second hand version two.V1 EASY TO BUY BUT I THINK HARD TO SELL. And the pick up is not as good as v2 if both stock. V2 have bigger rear tire and that really help a lot in safety and handling

 

Are you very sure about the pick-up?

[foxin]

haha hopefully by then i'd be able to find someone selling off their V2 luh! I'm trying to read the forums and learn how to handle these machines and what are the things to take note in terms of maintenance and performance.

 

if all goes well, i'd be able to get my license latest by march 13.

 

though right now, my friend's trying to convince me to get the aprilla rs 125.

 

Basic factors considering into the whole equation for new bikers are these.

1) looks

2) maintenance (servicing, petrol, parking.. etc)

Why so? Simple, cause you are young and restless and you like to have something affordable, fierce, cheap, does not require too much care and concern and just a bike that you can rider and move on to S4, GSR400, DRZ.. etc.

If you're looking at getting into say either of the 2A within 2 - 3 years, I'd say save your money and dont get a brand new v2. Else you can afford to buy in at 9K (excluding consideration of interest?) and sell off at some 4 - 5K.

You lose a good 5K in between.

 

RS 125 is good. Newest 2stroke you can ever get.. BUT!

parts are monopolized and selling at ridiculously high price. Ship in all you want, but you need to find the parts and wait for shipment. Not an easy task. To clear custom?

No option to consider upgrade. Even changing a pipe is illegal (arrow).

Engine oil ** 2 stroke uses heavy duty engine oil to work better** (motul gear oil sea 60w50) @ $45, 2T cost 18 - 21 for a average one.

Use any cheap stake engine oil and 2t you piston will piang, sticky carbon will found in your pipe belly and piston ring, blok and piston itself.

Carburetor bike need to take care also? Not like v2 use fuel inject? Need to adjust from time to time he spray setting.. need to wash? one wash $30 over dollars.

 

Now consider what I've say about noobie riders. You want to have something that is fierce looking, fast, cheap and hassle free.. No such thing.

I'm not saying all these to discourage anyone from taking aprilia rs old or new.. even rs4 (4 stroke). But are you responsible enough to care about your bike and maintain it painstakingly?

 

End of the day? Hassle free + cheap to maintain on long run + able to trade in for big bike in a year or so + efficient fuel consumption? There is.. Bajaj 180 or 04 - 09 RX-Z.

 

V2. Much to say.

I personally ride a V1 (just in case you think I'm bias).

v2 have

- longer swingarm

- bigger allowance for rear tyre

- layered fairing

- tune up ECU

Everything else is the same. It's like Coca-cola released a vanilla coke. Why do I say that? Simple.

In fact if you really thing things through.. V2 looks like it's being designed and tweaked hap hazardly.

Layered fairing + bigger rear tyre = gimmicks.

 

Bigger rear infact increase your drag and road contact surface. Plus point to more stable ride. BUT! Law of physics says that with bigger drag = lower top speed, heavier = lesser pick up and costly tires.

Downside.

Longer swingarm cause the bike to lose it's central gravity.. You find it hard to counter steer most of the time and not agile enough to move around. In fact, it causes awkward seating posture 99% of the time.

Tune up ECU to provider better control on your torque and speed management.. But, remember the upgraded rear tires? One plus point to overcome the one minus point = back to default.

 

Like more stats?

Both V1 and V2 peaks out optimum torque at 8.5k RPM. Both engine are the same.. Both have the same horsepower, both uses the same system, same ECU (slight tweak on mapping).

I over come all that by just adjusting my air to petrol ratio and achieved the same without mapping ECU which is pointless for small bike and cost a couple of hundreds to dyno (only way for FI, ECU bike).

Oh! Limited upgrades for v2 too. no legal pipe for one instance.

 

All this was said here. Ultimately you need to learn on what you want and how you wanna ride.

The fact is motordiam people are panic they cannot sell the huge import of V2 because of the handling problem (did i mentioned heat problem too?) and V1 is slightly better than V2 under the hood.

Dont believe me? Try asking the shop did they have stock for blue V2. They will only offer red and black. Why? Limited shipment already.

I can go on all day la... My passion is to help young rider ride safetly, stop people from buying bikes beyond their means and ended up having to sell at a huge loss or carry over installment cause of upkeep.

You ask me? Consider V1, V2 and Aprilia.. V1.

Deep down? Ride any 2nd hand kup or brand new bajaj 180 or older RX-Z.

 

Feel free to smack any question. (not those technical kind la, hard to explain in words)

[kokwei289]

pretty sure

Are you very sure about the pick-up?

[tomdickharry]

great explanation there, totally agreed!!! rode a 2nd V1 for 1 yr and sold it at a loss of 1k....V2 is definitely look nicer n fiercer...but for a p-plate to get a brand new v2, might as well buy a 2nd class 2A and keep it in ur carpark for 1 yr....

 

 

Basic factors considering into the whole equation for new bikers are these.

1) looks

2) maintenance (servicing, petrol, parking.. etc)

Why so? Simple, cause you are young and restless and you like to have something affordable, fierce, cheap, does not require too much care and concern and just a bike that you can rider and move on to S4, GSR400, DRZ.. etc.

If you're looking at getting into say either of the 2A within 2 - 3 years, I'd say save your money and dont get a brand new v2. Else you can afford to buy in at 9K (excluding consideration of interest?) and sell off at some 4 - 5K.

You lose a good 5K in between.

 

RS 125 is good. Newest 2stroke you can ever get.. BUT!

parts are monopolized and selling at ridiculously high price. Ship in all you want, but you need to find the parts and wait for shipment. Not an easy task. To clear custom?

No option to consider upgrade. Even changing a pipe is illegal (arrow).

Engine oil ** 2 stroke uses heavy duty engine oil to work better** (motul gear oil sea 60w50) @ $45, 2T cost 18 - 21 for a average one.

Use any cheap stake engine oil and 2t you piston will piang, sticky carbon will found in your pipe belly and piston ring, blok and piston itself.

Carburetor bike need to take care also? Not like v2 use fuel inject? Need to adjust from time to time he spray setting.. need to wash? one wash $30 over dollars.

 

Now consider what I've say about noobie riders. You want to have something that is fierce looking, fast, cheap and hassle free.. No such thing.

I'm not saying all these to discourage anyone from taking aprilia rs old or new.. even rs4 (4 stroke). But are you responsible enough to care about your bike and maintain it painstakingly?

 

End of the day? Hassle free + cheap to maintain on long run + able to trade in for big bike in a year or so + efficient fuel consumption? There is.. Bajaj 180 or 04 - 09 RX-Z.

 

V2. Much to say.

I personally ride a V1 (just in case you think I'm bias).

v2 have

- longer swingarm

- bigger allowance for rear tyre

- layered fairing

- tune up ECU

Everything else is the same. It's like Coca-cola released a vanilla coke. Why do I say that? Simple.

In fact if you really thing things through.. V2 looks like it's being designed and tweaked hap hazardly.

Layered fairing + bigger rear tyre = gimmicks.

 

Bigger rear infact increase your drag and road contact surface. Plus point to more stable ride. BUT! Law of physics says that with bigger drag = lower top speed, heavier = lesser pick up and costly tires.

Downside.

Longer swingarm cause the bike to lose it's central gravity.. You find it hard to counter steer most of the time and not agile enough to move around. In fact, it causes awkward seating posture 99% of the time.

Tune up ECU to provider better control on your torque and speed management.. But, remember the upgraded rear tires? One plus point to overcome the one minus point = back to default.

 

Like more stats?

Both V1 and V2 peaks out optimum torque at 8.5k RPM. Both engine are the same.. Both have the same horsepower, both uses the same system, same ECU (slight tweak on mapping).

I over come all that by just adjusting my air to petrol ratio and achieved the same without mapping ECU which is pointless for small bike and cost a couple of hundreds to dyno (only way for FI, ECU bike).

Oh! Limited upgrades for v2 too. no legal pipe for one instance.

 

All this was said here. Ultimately you need to learn on what you want and how you wanna ride.

The fact is motordiam people are panic they cannot sell the huge import of V2 because of the handling problem (did i mentioned heat problem too?) and V1 is slightly better than V2 under the hood.

Dont believe me? Try asking the shop did they have stock for blue V2. They will only offer red and black. Why? Limited shipment already.

I can go on all day la... My passion is to help young rider ride safetly, stop people from buying bikes beyond their means and ended up having to sell at a huge loss or carry over installment cause of upkeep.

You ask me? Consider V1, V2 and Aprilia.. V1.

Deep down? Ride any 2nd hand kup or brand new bajaj 180 or older RX-Z.

 

Feel free to smack any question. (not those technical kind la, hard to explain in words)

[kokwei289]

anyone know where to get mineral engine oil ? my bike reaching 1k soon .. is just 2 week and my bike hit 800km soon . my fc is about 48km per litre . those who have jus got new v2 share how yuors !?

[chiaph]

anyone know where to get mineral engine oil ? my bike reaching 1k soon .. is just 2 week and my bike hit 800km soon . my fc is about 48km per litre . those who have jus got new v2 share how yuors !?

 

mineral engine oil can be purchased from any bike shop. just pop in and ask. unique motorsports is one of the shop that have mineral oil.

[SPINERGY]

Hello newbies,

 

About which version of R15 to get,its purely up to your preference. The V2 is an improved bike over the V1 with the character of a real blood sports bike. Both are actually good and suitable for riding.

 

About maintenance, since its a 4 stroke, its heavily dependent on its engine oil. Use the recommended grade,20w-50 or a higher stats of 10w-40. Insist on sythentics or full synthetics for that added protection and lubrication. Do change your engine oil at intervals of 1500km as oil degrades and you do not wish tat in your engine system. For spark plug, change them every 5000km and engine oil at every oil change. This might a bit costly,but it sure prolong your ride and always a fresh one is better than an old stock.

 

Have fun riding and try not to do modifications as it will void the warranty and your personal safety is at stake.

 

Any questions, all the veterans in here will assist or PM me. Cheers!

[Piece of sheet]

Hey guys , anybody selling their R15 V1 ?

[kokwei289]

go to the used bike section there shld be a lot , or some bike shop selling new v1 at a much lower price

Hey guys , anybody selling their R15 V1 ?

[kokwei289]

what the difference for mineral oil ? when is the time shld i use it and what does it help ?

mineral engine oil can be purchased from any bike shop. just pop in and ask. unique motorsports is one of the shop that have mineral oil.

[foxin]

what the difference for mineral oil ? when is the time shld i use it and what does it help ?

Corse texture for mineral oil. Used during run-in process to help erode residue that might accumulate in the engine, blok, piston during production.

Since it's more corse, of course it's more lower grade and thicker. but cannot take in too high of a temperature, hence the "rest machine every 1 hour of operation". The EO cannot take in the heat and cannot dissipate well and will cause your engine to "hurt" a little.

Hence also explain why change oil filter with every oil change during run in process. It's usually "dirtier" with more particles (sawdust, etc).

Once your piston is set into the blok, you can fully change the oil into fully syn, semi and use as per normal. Because it's only have one piston, usually one oil change for mineral oil during run in will suffice.

[kokwei289]

which mean if i use mineral oil , i cannot go above rpm 6 ? hmm so the first time when i get my bike , inside is acutally filled with mineral oil by yamaha ?