YZF-R15 rider, GATHER!!!

coolscan · March 25, 2013

bro, your V2 tyres are different size from earlier R15, is it?

what size you using now?

cause specs say previous version is 80/90 & 100/80, now V2 is 90/80 & 130/70...

any version 1 / 2 riders know if this is true or not?

Ver 1: front 80, rear 100

Ver 2: front 90, rear 130, fatter and nicer.

However, my 2nd hand v1 has rear tyre size 110...

bruce71 · March 26, 2013

Ver 1: front 80, rear 100
Ver 2: front 90, rear 130, fatter and nicer.

However, my 2nd hand v1 has rear tyre size 110...

ok, noted...

+/- 10mm does not make much difference...you probably have "aftermarket ( non stock )" tyres on your version 1...no problems actually...

what i worry is that 100mm rear for version 1 may not be suitable for version 2 though...

ie. means may not be able to use 100 for version 2, ll got to use 130...ie. $$$...sian...

Edited March 26, 2013 by bruce71

frozenpenguins · March 26, 2013

bro, your V2 tyres are different size from earlier R15, is it?

what size you using now?

cause specs say previous version is 80/90 & 100/80, now V2 is 90/80 & 130/70...

any version 1 / 2 riders know if this is true or not?

I don't know haha... mine are still stock...

foxin · March 26, 2013

ok, noted...

+/- 10mm does not make much difference...you probably have "aftermarket ( non stock )" tyres on your version 1...no problems actually...

what i worry is that 100mm rear for version 1 may not be suitable for version 2 though...

ie. means may not be able to use 100 for version 2, ll got to use 130...ie. $$$...sian...

Generally comparing to a 100/80 and a 130/80 it doesn't necessary means better grip, safer etc etc.. However the primary point is that it does help in stability due to the increase in surface area and drag.

V1 and V2 essentially is the same. The much celebrated tune-up ECU is nothing but to increase a tiny bit of power band just to accommodate the larger rear and longer swingarm. (compensate the drag and loss of balance)

Considering the CG (Central gravity) you will shortly find that when you try to maneuver with V2, you find that the placement of your body to be off and maybe at time when you bank, it seems like the bike is forcefully going lower but your body is not. It takes a great deal of a courage to lower your body.

Not singing praise to V1 but all those that have been long enough on a yammie R knows that R15 is set to be nimble and to be able to weave in and out of traffic.. hence the compact design and slimmer tank.

About the rear tire price tag, its a price to pay for and of course there are always other alternative to choose from other than battalax.

The rim for R15 V2 is slightly bigger (I have no exact technical specification) but it shared the same as those on FZ150i and can house a 130. 100/80 rear on a V2 will cause your bike to be very imbalance due to the wider back and longer body now. Tire is too round for it to substain.

bruce71 · March 26, 2013

Generally comparing to a 100/80 and a 130/80 it doesn't necessary means better grip, safer etc etc.. However the primary point is that it does help in stability due to the increase in surface area and drag.

V1 and V2 essentially is the same. The much celebrated tune-up ECU is nothing but to increase a tiny bit of power band just to accommodate the larger rear and longer swingarm. (compensate the drag and loss of balance)
Considering the CG (Central gravity) you will shortly find that when you try to maneuver with V2, you find that the placement of your body to be off and maybe at time when you bank, it seems like the bike is forcefully going lower but your body is not. It takes a great deal of a courage to lower your body.

Not singing praise to V1 but all those that have been long enough on a yammie R knows that R15 is set to be nimble and to be able to weave in and out of traffic.. hence the compact design and slimmer tank.
About the rear tire price tag, its a price to pay for and of course there are always other alternative to choose from other than battalax.
The rim for R15 V2 is slightly bigger (I have no exact technical specification) but it shared the same as those on FZ150i and can house a 130. 100/80 rear on a V2 will cause your bike to be very imbalance due to the wider back and longer body now. Tire is too round for it to substain.

noted. THANKS A LOT!

personally liked the agility of V1, but V2 looks win lah! but after seeing V2 rear is 130, a bit sian liao lor...i also know better not use my preferred 100 on specified 130, affects everything ( handling maybe even suspension )...V2 got "wider back & longer body" ah?...

i see, i see...so if get V2, better stick to 130 lor...Michelin & Dunlop using 100 ( ok for V1, but a big no no for V2 ) whereas Battlax got 130 but battlax 130 very sexpensive leh...

looks like have to abandon plans for V2...

Edited March 26, 2013 by bruce71

xInsanePanda · March 26, 2013

Generally comparing to a 100/80 and a 130/80 it doesn't necessary means better grip, safer etc etc.. However the primary point is that it does help in stability due to the increase in surface area and drag.

V1 and V2 essentially is the same. The much celebrated tune-up ECU is nothing but to increase a tiny bit of power band just to accommodate the larger rear and longer swingarm. (compensate the drag and loss of balance)
Considering the CG (Central gravity) you will shortly find that when you try to maneuver with V2, you find that the placement of your body to be off and maybe at time when you bank, it seems like the bike is forcefully going lower but your body is not. It takes a great deal of a courage to lower your body.

Not singing praise to V1 but all those that have been long enough on a yammie R knows that R15 is set to be nimble and to be able to weave in and out of traffic.. hence the compact design and slimmer tank.
About the rear tire price tag, its a price to pay for and of course there are always other alternative to choose from other than battalax.
The rim for R15 V2 is slightly bigger (I have no exact technical specification) but it shared the same as those on FZ150i and can house a 130. 100/80 rear on a V2 will cause your bike to be very imbalance due to the wider back and longer body now. Tire is too round for it to substain.

But is it recommended for v1 to have 130 rear tyres? Because I am planning to change my rear tyre to battlax 130 width rear tyre for stability..

fab87 · March 26, 2013

But is it recommended for v1 to have 130 rear tyres? Because I am planning to change my rear tyre to battlax 130 width rear tyre for stability..

Hehe.. the ans is no. The max u can go for v1 is 120 rear.

bruce71 · March 27, 2013

Hehe.. the ans is no. The max u can go for v1 is 120 rear.

ok! thanks! noted!...130 cannot fit into swingarm?

anyway, does not matter anyway, v1 can use 80 or 90 for front, & 100 or 110 for rear, right? confirm?

ok, any lobang for v1?

but got to sell my bike first...

weeliang · March 27, 2013

But is it recommended for v1 to have 130 rear tyres? Because I am planning to change my rear tyre to battlax 130 width rear tyre for stability..

ok! thanks! noted!...130 cannot fit into swingarm?

anyway, does not matter anyway, v1 can use 80 or 90 for front, & 100 or 110 for rear, right? confirm?

ok, any lobang for v1?

but got to sell my bike first...

120 is alr close to touching your swingarm. Dont try. Waste your money on the tyres and the chain as the chain u will need it long enough to let the wheel enough space to freely move. If you wan cheap battlax then go to ah boy. Then ask them for fix on. Bad point is their workshop sometime alot ppl and got to Q long time. Point to take note, check the tyres age. On the tyres there will be 4numbers at the side. eg. 0313 = 3rd week of 2013. Dont get cheated to get something bad.

Hi guys, anyone intend to sell r 15 2 pair original set signal light ..? Pls SMS me at 90053439.. Thx:)

Signal lights is $15 each one. Full set $60. Call Autocycle for it. They have the cheapest yamaha parts, even hong leong oso get from them.

bruce71 · March 28, 2013

120 is alr close to touching your swingarm. Dont try. Waste your money on the tyres and the chain as the chain u will need it long enough to let the wheel enough space to freely move. If you wan cheap battlax then go to ah boy. Then ask them for fix on. Bad point is their workshop sometime alot ppl and got to Q long time. Point to take note, check the tyres age. On the tyres there will be 4numbers at the side. eg. 0313 = 3rd week of 2013. Dont get cheated to get something bad.

Signal lights is $15 each one. Full set $60. Call Autocycle for it. They have the cheapest yamaha parts, even hong leong oso get from them.

ok, noted, thanks!

personally, i dislike 130 anyway, 120 already no space for version 1? better still for me...using 100 for version 1 when i do get it, if i get it...

search begins......

ThePanduck · March 28, 2013

Hi everyone! I actually just passed my TP and went to survey for bikes today. Happened to come across a very sexy black R15 v2 at one of the shops. I'm just wondering what's the fuel consumption and maintenance like for this bike. Would be great to hear some experience with this bike as well. Thanks and looking forward to the responses!

bruce71 · March 29, 2013

Generally comparing to a 100/80 and a 130/80 it doesn't necessary means better grip, safer etc etc.. However the primary point is that it does help in stability due to the increase in surface area and drag.

V1 and V2 essentially is the same. The much celebrated tune-up ECU is nothing but to increase a tiny bit of power band just to accommodate the larger rear and longer swingarm. (compensate the drag and loss of balance)
Considering the CG (Central gravity) you will shortly find that when you try to maneuver with V2, you find that the placement of your body to be off and maybe at time when you bank, it seems like the bike is forcefully going lower but your body is not. It takes a great deal of a courage to lower your body.

Not singing praise to V1 but all those that have been long enough on a yammie R knows that R15 is set to be nimble and to be able to weave in and out of traffic.. hence the compact design and slimmer tank...

But is it recommended for v1 to have 130 rear tyres? Because I am planning to change my rear tyre to battlax 130 width rear tyre for stability..

you didn't read his post carefully enough.......quote the relevant parts from his post for you...

bruce71 · March 29, 2013

11K for a bike at the period when COE is at 1.8K is pretty reasonable. All in itself should go some 7.8 to 8. Of course, there is also a possibility that a shop's "OTR" maybe be another "OTR" to others.
For instance, ah*** bike "OTR" is without insurance, while LOO*** "OTR" is with insurance calculations.
So to me having a 11K V2 is common these days since insurance could rake up a good 2K over. But if it's without insurance, I could only say learn a good lesson here then.

Shifting a little perception here.. There are "dealers", "manufacturer", "retailers" and "reseller" we're talking about here.
Naturally if you started off getting something from the bottom of the chain, you will pay a much higher price.
Dealers here are specifically:
Yamaha - Hong leong
Honda: Boon siew
Suzuki : Guan hoe
Kawasaki: Evershine
and so on. And the perception that "dealers" sells to shop only is warped. There is no such thing.
The price that was being sold to consumer is "machine price" and it's determine by the dealer itself. This price cannot escape. Google ducati singapore and you can find a price list.
A good logic calculation of GST, road tax, reg fee, IU etc etc etc will give you a final price; hence that's why some people can get a OTR bike w/o insurance for 20K while another get it for 28K. It's not that I'm a bike shop buying or a layman.. but it's how much you know and how transparent they dealer/ bike shop/ individuals wanna be.

of course, lets not rule out that bikeshop AKA retailer can get a concessionary price but how much deviation can it be from any good bro/ sis here when we know how much one of those are selling. Right?

good post!

to further add on to foxin's post...

sharing my sexperience from 2-3 years ago...

personally went down to Hong Leong Yamaha to ask for their price...this is what i got...

version 1 R15 MACHINE PRICE was around 5k ( cannot remember exact figure )...add on the COE price ( 1.5k at that time, 1.9k now )

...as for other miscellaneous...

add on another 60 bucks for registration plates...add on another 155 bucks for IU, add on another 64 for road tax...works out to be additional 280 roughly...

total OTR price WITHOUT insurance was around 7k...even if you are high risk age group, should still be below 9k...

unless version 2 machine price is a lot more higher than version 1...unlikely...should be around the same ballpark...

eg...let's say version 2 machine price is 5.5k, COE 1.9k, miscellanous 0.3k...total 7.7k without insurance...

insurance can differ from 150 bucks to 1.8k i presume...

add on & you will still get at most 9.5k, perhaps? lower if machine price or insurance or COE is lower...

Edited March 29, 2013 by bruce71

ZephyrPeh · March 29, 2013

Hi guys! Got my R15 for 2 weeks now. Although not using a P Plate but I'm a Noob when it comes to bike. Anyone can tell me how to maintain your own bike? or is there any things to note for R15? I bought a V1 in the end due to the sleek body size xD

foxin · March 29, 2013

Hi everyone! I actually just passed my TP and went to survey for bikes today. Happened to come across a very sexy black R15 v2 at one of the shops. I'm just wondering what's the fuel consumption and maintenance like for this bike. Would be great to hear some experience with this bike as well. Thanks and looking forward to the responses!

Dude! First and forth most congrats! And welcome to the community. Hope this will be a place where you find comfort and a little more insight for your machine.

FC for R15 balance between 39 to 45. I'd put a mid range at 44 per liter then. You will be expecting 13L with 9L of working space before reserve (thats what I observed from mine either way)

Maintenance like wise is universal across all 4stroke bike. Regular engine oil changes, lubbing of chain, wash.. ppolish.. kisses and hug will let you have a long lasting machine with minimum problem. Note! However compared to those of 2stroke nature (SP, KRR, RS125 etc ect) it doesn't means total immune from parts replacement and dip lower into the pocket. Cause when one of the parts fail, it cost quite a little to get it replace and aftermarkets parts does not float as much as those of 2 stroke which have been around for many years.

As of now, per se, I can ensure you R15 is one bike that brings your style, efficiency and good for a little tinge of thrill.

Alongside some noteworthy will be RS4, R125, Derbi GPR, Duke 200, Bajaj NS200R, FZ16.

But of course, each to it's own.

Lemme just future proof a little here.

If you're considering to make this bike yours for anywhere more than 3 years, its good to lay your hand on one since the prices are soaring and it easily set you 5K back for a 3years old bike. Large investment.

Else consider 2nd hand bike like spark, wave, runner, RX-Z, SP, KRR so as to mimimize your loss when you wanna upgrade on a short notice.

foxin · March 29, 2013

Hi guys! Got my R15 for 2 weeks now. Although not using a P Plate but I'm a Noob when it comes to bike. Anyone can tell me how to maintain your own bike? or is there any things to note for R15? I bought a V1 in the end due to the sleek body size xD

Maybe you like to tell us what you know and we see if we could top up to the list.

ThePanduck · March 29, 2013

Dude! First and forth most congrats! And welcome to the community. Hope this will be a place where you find comfort and a little more insight for your machine.

FC for R15 balance between 39 to 45. I'd put a mid range at 44 per liter then. You will be expecting 13L with 9L of working space before reserve (thats what I observed from mine either way)
Maintenance like wise is universal across all 4stroke bike. Regular engine oil changes, lubbing of chain, wash.. ppolish.. kisses and hug will let you have a long lasting machine with minimum problem. Note! However compared to those of 2stroke nature (SP, KRR, RS125 etc ect) it doesn't means total immune from parts replacement and dip lower into the pocket. Cause when one of the parts fail, it cost quite a little to get it replace and aftermarkets parts does not float as much as those of 2 stroke which have been around for many years.

As of now, per se, I can ensure you R15 is one bike that brings your style, efficiency and good for a little tinge of thrill.
Alongside some noteworthy will be RS4, R125, Derbi GPR, Duke 200, Bajaj NS200R, FZ16.
But of course, each to it's own.

Lemme just future proof a little here.
If you're considering to make this bike yours for anywhere more than 3 years, its good to lay your hand on one since the prices are soaring and it easily set you 5K back for a 3years old bike. Large investment.
Else consider 2nd hand bike like spark, wave, runner, RX-Z, SP, KRR so as to mimimize your loss when you wanna upgrade on a short notice.

Hey there! Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm pretty impressed with the mentioned FC numbers. Wow... Was expecting it to be lower. Haha.

Just a little more info about what kind of bike I'm looking at. I'm looking for one with pretty decent/good fuel consumption, good looks and of course maintenance costs not to be too high. I will probably be taking up a 5 year loan so that means I'm looking for a bike that is reliable too.

Initially I narrowed my choices down to the Yamaha FZ16, Yamaha R15 v2 and Bajaj Pulsar 200NS. I love the look of the 200NS to be honest but with maintenance costs to be higher and the reputation of the brand not being reliable in the long run worrying me (like I mentioned, I'll be taking up a 4 or 5 year loan), I have sort of ruled it out. Please do advice/correct me if my perception is wrong on this.

But yes, I know between the Yamaha FZ16 and Yamaha R15 it is mostly down to the preference of the rider. Which is why I was wondering about the fuel consumption and maintenance costs of a R15 as I already have rough figures of that of a FZ16 (FC is pretty good, in the ranges of 35km/l and above).

I do wonder if the R15 is or is not pillion-friendly?

ThePanduck · March 29, 2013

EDIT: Double post

calebike · March 29, 2013

Hi everyone! I actually just passed my TP and went to survey for bikes today. Happened to come across a very sexy black R15 v2 at one of the shops. I'm just wondering what's the fuel consumption and maintenance like for this bike. Would be great to hear some experience with this bike as well. Thanks and looking forward to the responses!

bro, how much did you see it for?

foxin · March 29, 2013

Hey there! Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm pretty impressed with the mentioned FC numbers. Wow... Was expecting it to be lower. Haha.

Just a little more info about what kind of bike I'm looking at. I'm looking for one with pretty decent/good fuel consumption, good looks and of course maintenance costs not to be too high. I will probably be taking up a 5 year loan so that means I'm looking for a bike that is reliable too.

Initially I narrowed my choices down to the Yamaha FZ16, Yamaha R15 v2 and Bajaj Pulsar 200NS. I love the look of the 200NS to be honest but with maintenance costs to be higher and the reputation of the brand not being reliable in the long run worrying me (like I mentioned, I'll be taking up a 4 or 5 year loan), I have sort of ruled it out. Please do advice/correct me if my perception is wrong on this.

But yes, I know between the Yamaha FZ16 and Yamaha R15 it is mostly down to the preference of the rider. Which is why I was wondering about the fuel consumption and maintenance costs of a R15 as I already have rough figures of that of a FZ16 (FC is pretty good, in the ranges of 35km/l and above).

I do wonder if the R15 is or is not pillion-friendly?

Budget is the first hurdle you must get past. If you're looking at stretching every single dollar worth on a brand new sexy bike, my response to you will be.. No, rest the matter and save up.

It's painful I know. But then again that was just a perception from what tell-tales I can spot..

I come from the reasoning of..

5 year typical installment you will need a good 100 - 150 a month

Roadtax a year @ 64 = 5.3 a month

Insurance for the next year @ 800 = 66.66 a month

petrol @ 44km /l for 300km @ 6 days * 5 (30 days) petrol at 2.4 = 80 a month

Monthly maintenance (my list) = 40 a month (some month more because of oil filter)

Expenses a month = 341.96 a month.

And the estimate does not consider your wear and tear (tires, cables, brake fuild, coolant, piston, radiator, blok, chain.. etc etc), does not consider if your hand is itchy and you wanna beautify your bike (pipe, sticker, lever change etc etc etc), fines (choy!), parking charges, ERP... and the list goes on.

If you cannot get pass this, I guess the following text will just be a discussion for you

Anyway...

But before I can put through with what I can gathered to you, I like to clarify what you meant by "higher maintenance" cost for 200NS? Triple spark plugs? Cause from what I see, a 4stroke bike (small bike vs small bike of course) have generally the same set of things to look after and all are as good as the same routine.

Bajaj is worrying, definitely. But the World right now have shift it focus to areas such as Thailand and India especially India. It's thriving.

You might like to note that every KTM duke 150 and 200 are built in India with Duke 200 in the same factory as R15 v2.

Honda shift the plant from Thailand to India for it's 500 and CBR400 (the CBR400 is reported as from India, need clarification) and most Kawa, Honda, Suzuki built in Thailand. Much supported reason for a growing brand I must say. If you still think that Japan is the way of life, think again. Yen is ever increasing (means machine price will take a hike) and looking at CBR600 2013, it invited very wide spectrum of agreement; as compared to those years when they release CBR600rr and CBR1000rr and the World embrace it without a second thought.

Time have changed.

R15 is it pillion friendly? Sports bike are not designed to be pillion friendly. I'd say it definitely give in much space for pillion compared to RS4. So I'd say yes?

ThePanduck · March 30, 2013

Budget is the first hurdle you must get past. If you're looking at stretching every single dollar worth on a brand new sexy bike, my response to you will be.. No, rest the matter and save up.
It's painful I know. But then again that was just a perception from what tell-tales I can spot..
I come from the reasoning of..

5 year typical installment you will need a good 100 - 150 a month
Roadtax a year @ 64 = 5.3 a month
Insurance for the next year @ 800 = 66.66 a month
petrol @ 44km /l for 300km @ 6 days * 5 (30 days) petrol at 2.4 = 80 a month
Monthly maintenance (my list) = 40 a month (some month more because of oil filter)

Expenses a month = 341.96 a month.

And the estimate does not consider your wear and tear (tires, cables, brake fuild, coolant, piston, radiator, blok, chain.. etc etc), does not consider if your hand is itchy and you wanna beautify your bike (pipe, sticker, lever change etc etc etc), fines (choy!), parking charges, ERP... and the list goes on.
If you cannot get pass this, I guess the following text will just be a discussion for you

Anyway...
But before I can put through with what I can gathered to you, I like to clarify what you meant by "higher maintenance" cost for 200NS? Triple spark plugs? Cause from what I see, a 4stroke bike (small bike vs small bike of course) have generally the same set of things to look after and all are as good as the same routine.

Bajaj is worrying, definitely. But the World right now have shift it focus to areas such as Thailand and India especially India. It's thriving.
You might like to note that every KTM duke 150 and 200 are built in India with Duke 200 in the same factory as R15 v2.
Honda shift the plant from Thailand to India for it's 500 and CBR400 (the CBR400 is reported as from India, need clarification) and most Kawa, Honda, Suzuki built in Thailand. Much supported reason for a growing brand I must say. If you still think that Japan is the way of life, think again. Yen is ever increasing (means machine price will take a hike) and looking at CBR600 2013, it invited very wide spectrum of agreement; as compared to those years when they release CBR600rr and CBR1000rr and the World embrace it without a second thought.

Time have changed.

R15 is it pillion friendly? Sports bike are not designed to be pillion friendly. I'd say it definitely give in much space for pillion compared to RS4. So I'd say yes?

My parents insist that I get a new bike instead of a 2nd hand one. Thanks for putting rough numbers up for me to see. It definitely does help me plan better and stuff. I still feel I would be able to handle the expenses of a bike.

As for the 200NS, besides the 3 spark plugs, I think I mixed it up with the wear-and-tear factor. Yes, I am concerned with the possibility of the parts breaking down easier as compared to bikes of other brands like Yamaha and Honda. This will then lead to me spending on the repairs and I hope to minimise that over the period of the long loan.

Nice to know there's a little more space for pillions on the R15. And yes I do understand that it is a sports bike after all. Just wondering is it generally decently comfortable at most. Haha

foxin · March 31, 2013

My parents insist that I get a new bike instead of a 2nd hand one. Thanks for putting rough numbers up for me to see. It definitely does help me plan better and stuff. I still feel I would be able to handle the expenses of a bike.

As for the 200NS, besides the 3 spark plugs, I think I mixed it up with the wear-and-tear factor. Yes, I am concerned with the possibility of the parts breaking down easier as compared to bikes of other brands like Yamaha and Honda. This will then lead to me spending on the repairs and I hope to minimise that over the period of the long loan.

Nice to know there's a little more space for pillions on the R15. And yes I do understand that it is a sports bike after all. Just wondering is it generally decently comfortable at most. Haha

Actually on the contrary, Bajaj (I am not convincing you to buy a Bajaj cause I can tell your hear is already set) bike are very hardy. Compared to Yamaha bikes, I have a couple of dude on the new R15 V2 and 1 by far having a fuel pump problem barely 1 week into ownership.

I can even quote a couple more case for class 2 bike but it might seems out of the league. The bottom line is that there is no guarantee "fail-proof" first hand bike. After all we are an importing country, we might take **** batch from people who doesn't want them. Who knows? And those machine are assembled and ship here way before hand, comparing to those over in other countries where they simply order, assemble, beautify, send, sell all within a couple of weeks.

Yay, hooray to the techy at yamaha fort he brilliant pillion friendly rear.

ZephyrPeh · March 31, 2013

Just did my first running in to get my engine oil changed. Apparently for past few days whenever I trottle, I seems to be able to hear some squeaky noise coming from my bike. Is it healthy to have such sound? The squeak noise gets faster when I ride faster... Its abit irritating at times to keep hearing the sound coming out. As mentioned my bike is just 2 weeks old... D: Please advised.

frozenpenguins · March 31, 2013

Just did my first running in to get my engine oil changed. Apparently for past few days whenever I trottle, I seems to be able to hear some squeaky noise coming from my bike. Is it healthy to have such sound? The squeak noise gets faster when I ride faster... Its abit irritating at times to keep hearing the sound coming out. As mentioned my bike is just 2 weeks old... D: Please advised.

front wheel right? i also...

ZephyrPeh · April 1, 2013

Ya! is that normal? D: wonder if its a screw loose or what lol...

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