YZF-R15 rider, GATHER!!!

[hyphen]

hi guys!what type of chain & sprocket brand you recommend and which bike shop(eastside)?

whats the ideal sprocket size?

[HeyApple]

Anyone letting go their gpr pipe for v1 with cert?

[xxwh1skyxx]

ehh my suggestion better dont ride for the mean time, safety first bro, your life is worth more then the risk.. if you know how to remove the fairing, you can try changing the spark plug yourself.. if not go straight into the work shop asap to get them fix it, it is very dangerous espically when you need the pick up and you dont have it, you can be safe but the other road user may not be.. they wont know you are having problems with the bike.. they will just cut you dangerously..

 

Thanks for the tip, I brought it to Team HKL and the guy told me i needed to overhaul again. I don't feel like taking risks with mechanics no more. Think I'm going to bring it to Hong Leong Corporation, YAMAHA distributor. Anyone service their bike there?

[Alves]

I went there b4, but must booking for servicing 2week advance~

 

Their service is good! Bcoz my bike v2 got problem still under warranty, they fix it immediately for me~ normal servicing must booking! Bcoz the slot always full ~

[Alves]

May I know any aftermarket exhaust for v2 recommended ?

[xxwh1skyxx]

hi just check with a friend he say might want to check on your spark plug;) and go to a trustable workshop to get it check on if it still doesnt work..

 

I changed spark plug and air filter new ones. Still got problem definitely engine already (((( where good place to overhaul.

[xxwh1skyxx]

hi just check with a friend he say might want to check on your spark plug;) and go to a trustable workshop to get it check on if it still doesnt work..

 

I changed spark plug and air filter new ones. Still got problem definitely engine already (((( where good place to overhaul.

[Ayatollah]

I did my engine overhaul at HKL bukit merah. Beside Juzzwheels. Not opposite. Mine is a v1.

 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

[beast1985]

I changed spark plug and air filter new ones. Still got problem definitely engine already (((( where good place to overhaul.

 

currently I dont have a workshop to recommend yet but like Ayatollah recommended you can try HKL or from what I know Wing Yap Motor (http://www.wingyap.com.sg/index.php?option=com_contact&view=category&catid=12)

[HeyApple]

Anyone letting go gpr for v1? Interested to get for my bike.

 

Friends of friends?

[HeyApple]

Anyone letting go gpr for v1? Interested to get for my bike.

 

Friends of friends?

[Sandy Jo]

Hi

 

I'm looking for aftermarket parts for my r15..shocks,brake upgrade,steering damper,footrests and levers and ESPECIALLY lightweight rims..also looking for grippy tyres for good corner grip..not able to find tyres for the stock r15 version1 rim size..looking for the next best upsize..should be willing to ship to India

 

Thanks

[xxwh1skyxx]

currently I dont have a workshop to recommend yet but like Ayatollah recommended you can try HKL or from what I know Wing Yap Motor (http://www.wingyap.com.sg/index.php?option=com_contact&view=category&catid=12)

 

Haha i already went to Team HKL, they said need overhaul just by revving the bike... i dunno if i can trust that. Then i brought it to Wing Yap and got myself some new air filters and iridium spark plug to see if that fixed the problem. Also no go, so now i left my bike at Republic Motors at Kaki Bukit. Hopefully, they know whats wrong. Its so sickening i'm already spending $700 + dollars on repairs that don't even work. R15 is letting me down. If Republic makes me pay another $500+. Imagine how much money I'm throwing on this bike. WHY ME

 

If anyone out there knows whats wrong please help me. I still suspect Cam Chain issues or Valve Adjustment.

[beast1985]

Haha i already went to Team HKL, they said need overhaul just by revving the bike... i dunno if i can trust that. Then i brought it to Wing Yap and got myself some new air filters and iridium spark plug to see if that fixed the problem. Also no go, so now i left my bike at Republic Motors at Kaki Bukit. Hopefully, they know whats wrong. Its so sickening i'm already spending $700 + dollars on repairs that don't even work. R15 is letting me down. If Republic makes me pay another $500+. Imagine how much money I'm throwing on this bike. WHY ME

 

If anyone out there knows whats wrong please help me. I still suspect Cam Chain issues or Valve Adjustment.

 

wah no joke sia spending so much on a recurring problem.. maybe you shld have bring it back to them to ask them to check again and let them know that they dint do a proper job.. rather then looking arnd at other shop bro.. cause changing to many hands they may end up just consuming you over and over again.. well just a thought bro.. best to stick with a mechanic when such things happen...

[foxin]

Haha i already went to Team HKL, they said need overhaul just by revving the bike... i dunno if i can trust that. Then i brought it to Wing Yap and got myself some new air filters and iridium spark plug to see if that fixed the problem. Also no go, so now i left my bike at Republic Motors at Kaki Bukit. Hopefully, they know whats wrong. Its so sickening i'm already spending $700 + dollars on repairs that don't even work. R15 is letting me down. If Republic makes me pay another $500+. Imagine how much money I'm throwing on this bike. WHY ME

 

If anyone out there knows whats wrong please help me. I still suspect Cam Chain issues or Valve Adjustment.

 

I've read through your complaints and realised many questionable point.

You mentioned "overhual" and the price range seems to be a little under. 700 for 2 overhuals, air filter and spark plug? Need clarification on that.

Losing of power is a common issue when your engine is choking up, ecu failure (can even be just wiring), stratos etc etc.

Now from what I've read, the losing of power can be occured within the engine blocks. But since you overhual (which when you do so, they change the piston, block, rings and valve and what else. Different shop have different way of packaging their service. Generally the piston, piston ring, block is a must), I think the issue here is no longer the piston and valve.

For the same matter, the shop that asked you to change air filter and spark plug can ask them to close shop, wrap up business and go fly kite. How is it air filter that is causing the problem? I mean, the air intake itself from your stock box is panel form. So, basically air box will NEVER be choke up to such extent when you have choking effect on your bike. More over, you can argue the spark plug may be failing.. So this is agree.

 

The final issue. All in all your engine should be brand new with your sparks in place. Next thing is your injector. That itself can be a major issue pertaining the power lose with the tendency of losing power in your engine management since the bike is very electronic dependent and may have some issues with your fuel sensor or even your air ratio adjustment.

Should everything goes, your new block, piston, piston ring, valve shouldn't cause the machine to choke. That could simply be your idling setting.

The matter on your power loss, it could be your ECU? (notice some electrical fault? Engine trouble light on?) Injector?

If you were to ask me, many shops are reputable. But when it comes to too 'branded', small bikes are usually ignored. So going to a good name doesn't means good stuff. Cause they are more interested in big bikes (since many big bike goes to them and usually that would require a great deal of man hour and labor). You wouldn't like to have your 1000cc bike to have 2 to 3 mechanic working on it and having them to work on it for a while, stop and break their thoughts right?

Suspicion on cam.. drop it. Any error in your cam is as good as the bike having much jerkyness when you move out.

2 more speculation can be your rectifier not charging or your coil is not functioning well causing irregularity in your electric current flow. Have your battery health checked and ask the mech to check for charging. (if will be better if you have a volt meter itself and it should read 12.1 to 12.4 on rest and 14.1 to 14.3 when revving above 5k rpm)

 

Just from reading, I cannot give a very good detail analysis since I really find your ws having to do 2 overhual and change of parts to be ineffective. That shouldn't be.

My heart goes out to you and hope you can find some solace.

[foxin]

Btw i read up on the manual , it says under 500km try not rev up more than 5k rpm then after 500km - 1000km , not more than 7.5k rpm .. So actually runnin in not based on speed but rather the rpm range .. Lol .. Shop always say .. "Hmm 80km/hr can lah .." ..but if 80km/hr it is more than 5k rpm is'nt it esp for the first 500km ? Maybe I think the manual is just to "play safe" ..

 

I am currently running in mine r15v2 now and I find the gear shifting very comfortable around 6k rpm so you might want to try around that range. but if yours is already run in I believe you can hit aroudn 7k and not be a problem as wel

 

clutch release,

gear 1 usable >2.5k.

rest gears usable >4k.

shift up, your rpm will drop 1~2k rpm to match the speed.

 

so you should wait at least your rpm >6k to shift up.

and be careful in shifting down when your rpm is high...need to match properly...

 

shifting can refer to engine sound when you are used to it..

 

Running in a bike have been a much disputed claim since God knows when.

So to break it down simply, its just 2 school of thoughts. Hard vs Soft.

 

Hard break-in (also called run-in)

Engine is specifically produced in the factory and fired up to 13k rpm for a prolonged period of time. This itself is a QC to ensure that the engine stress and torque and min. output and max. output is being put forward before they vacuum every single liquid out of the engine and bring it for storage before shipping to manufacturing line in India when the orders for the bike comes in.

So the logic is the the engine (bike) is wack ready. So procedure from your first 0.1km? Just rev it.. Ride it like how it should be ridden. No restriction. Fully synthetic engine oil after 500km to wash off residue, balance from engine production, top a fresh engine oil filter and you're good to rev.

 

Was said that hard break-in brings out the bike's true potential and doesn't allow the piston to set to a position whereby it does not produce sufficient capacity to support the operation. Hence, opposing soft break-in's approach of seasoning the piston through step by step procedure, it believe that the engine truly can perform when it had reaches it's lowest power band to the highest band.

It feels painful to operate your bike this way... Some may said because we pay so much for a machine and we wanna treasure it and go all ***** like. Some said the manual is written this way because it might have newbie rider and soft break-in is just a way for the newbie to gain some road experience without and complication.

 

Soft break-in (soft run-in)

This process require you to literally run the engine through various stages.

Common idea for a single cylinder is 500km, 1000km, 1500km. Although it is much disputed but to make matter more simpler, just use these as a general guide.

500km; mineral engine oil + oil filter change. The fresh engine is filled with production debris and the coarser mineral oil actually wash and "purge" stubborn debris away.

Engine is observed to be primitive and need to set the piston in place for firing. So the pace is rest the machine after every 1 full hour of continuos operation.

- Rev no more than 5.5k RPM

- varies your speed from time to time, varies your rpm too

- Do not have a one set throttle (means maintain the throttle for a long time.. say... 10min?)

- Change gear freely from 1 through 6 and 6 through 1 with assisted clutch in effort when stopping. NO MORE THAN 5.5K RPM!

- use more engine brake

- of course... do not full throttle

- do not rev on neutral (no gear on)

 

1,000km; mineral oil + oil filter

Engine is set and need to take on progressive task.

- rev no more than 8k RPM

- ride freely for the whole 8k RPM range and practice more changing of gears

- at anytime do not over-rev (rev with no gear on)

- varies your speed from time to time, 1 set throttle is fine

 

1,500km: fully synthetic oil + oil filter

Your engine is good to go. Of course some of you might be like "So with all these thing you ask me to observe, suppose I was riding on 1,499km and when it turns 1,500km in like the next 2 seconds, I can whack free? Rossi?! Marques?! Alonso?!"

Please.. when you finally train up so dearly for your race do you for that one instant decided to immediately sprint out of momentum and place intense pressure on yourself? Same thing goes for you machine.

- observe riding progressively

It's a free zone basically.. 10k rpm easily brings you 120km/hr. But to eventually reach there, progressively reach it. Observe picking up momentarily to the desire speed.. So I cannot put any more mileage to the figure. Its a how you use your bike, how often and how you decide to rev (your rev pattern).

Common belief is that how you ride your bike, your rev pattern, speed, engine braking, style.. has an impact on your piston and engine. So don't go "eh! My bike and my friend bike same day come out, sue the same guide, observe the same ****, weights the same shirt and underwear.. how come he top 145km/hr but I only 138km/hr?" I will say "eh! we all born the same? walk the same? eat the same way is it?"

No one size fits all.. your riding method still play a parts. And thats why the bike always register and identify with you than with others.

 

Bottom line, you take care of your bike.. The bike take care of your pocket.

By far some info I've got for v1 is 155km/hr straight, rider 176cm, 60++kg. Avg. goes some 130km/hr easily.

V2 wise there have been report of 145km/hr, rider is 179cm, 50+++ kg. Avg. goes some 125km/hr easily.

All bikes in this record are stock bike.

[foxin]

oh! Forgot to mention.. I am a "soft run-in" approach person.

[beast1985]

thanks foxin for sharing your knowledge:) I learn something too:)

[ree_if]

Hi bros, just got my license and looking to buy a R15V2

Is anyone letting their's go?

give me a text at 91910908 thanks

[foxin]

Hi bros, just got my license and looking to buy a R15V2

Is anyone letting their's go?

give me a text at 91910908 thanks

 

Best of luck, but please do keep your eyes and ears open. Dont let the excitement of bikes eat you up. go with someone experience

[ree_if]

Best of luck, but please do keep your eyes and ears open. Dont let the excitement of bikes eat you up. go with someone experience

Thanks bro foxin, my dad is pretty experienced, went for a viewing of 1 R15 v2 but seems like there's pretty much rust on the joint area...and he is like nah this bike does not make it lol.

Anyways just want to know does the rust corrode the joint very badly? or is it just cosmetics and it can be removed? Thanks

[chopper]

Hi guys, anyone experience that the engine will become overheat after riding for awhile? I had already change my coolant but the prob is still there. Is it my engine prob?

[suchwow]

Hi bros, gna get my license pretty soon. Just wna check w y'all the avg price of a 2nd hand R15 V2? Deciding whether to get R15 / R125/ RS 125 / CBR150R atm, R15 is my aim atm though! Oh, and is it wise to get from a direct seller for my first bike? Direct seller usually pump in accessories which is quite a steal at times!

[xxwh1skyxx]

Hi guys, anyone experience that the engine will become overheat after riding for awhile? I had already change my coolant but the prob is still there. Is it my engine prob?

 

Yeah same, especially when i wear short pants. I can feel heat coming off the engine onto my legs. Dunno if its normal

[chopper]

Yeah same, especially when i wear short pants. I can feel heat coming off the engine onto my legs. Dunno if its normal

 

Mine have the Temp Is High icon showing up red..dunno if engine oil plays a part..I'm going to change the engine oil on monday