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Honda Tiger 200cc


gargantua

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Hi nbk3,

 

What is the mineral oil brand that you used? What's the diff between this and semi-syn EO? Any particular advantage for this in the initial break-in period? According to the Honda warranty, it is recommended to change EO at 800km, next at 2000km clocked, 3000km clocked and thereafter every 2500km traveled. Btw, is it normal that we will experience less speed during the break in period.it seems slightly 'harder' to throttle above 60-70km/h. I hope I did the proper handling this stage to get the best of the bike.

 

Violinbite

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I think 500km 1000km n 2000km shld be fine. Btw juz to double check, this bike gt oil filter ? Some say hav, some say dun hav. Can anybody take a pic ??

 

this bike does not have an oil filter (if we're talking about the likes of those filter canisters used by super four) since we cant access the centrifugal/strainer as easily, it can be viewed as a no-oil-filter bike.

Hi nbk3,

 

What is the mineral oil brand that you used? What's the diff between this and semi-syn EO? Any particular advantage for this in the initial break-in period? According to the Honda warranty, it is recommended to change EO at 800km, next at 2000km clocked, 3000km clocked and thereafter every 2500km traveled. Btw, is it normal that we will experience less speed during the break in period.it seems slightly 'harder' to throttle above 60-70km/h. I hope I did the proper handling this stage to get the best of the bike.

 

Violinbite

 

i used the cheapest mineral oil available during my break-in.

 

mineral/semi/syn oil is mainly a matter of providing different properties, perhaps google can help better with this.

 

for throttling, maybe after the break-in period, u can have a better feel of whether it really is a engine problem, or a breaking-in situation? again, i cant comment much.

 

Hi xunknown

 

According to manual, there are EO strainer screen and EO centrifugal filter on the list of servicing. But recommeded to be handled by the qualified mechanics.

 

Violinbite

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this bike does not have an oil filter (if we're talking about the likes of those filter canisters used by super four) since we cant access the centrifugal/strainer as easily, it can be viewed as a no-oil-filter bike.

 

 

i used the cheapest mineral oil available during my break-in.

 

mineral/semi/syn oil is mainly a matter of providing different properties, perhaps google can help better with this.

 

for throttling, maybe after the break-in period, u can have a better feel of whether it really is a engine problem, or a breaking-in situation? again, i cant comment much.

 

thx for e explaination nbk3. guess in future once i get my honda tiger, we can organise a meetup to discuss n share knowledge of our bike over a kopi session.

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Hi nbk3,

 

Currently I have traveled close to 200km. I can sense that the gear level starting to have clicking resistance when shifting gear. Previously I have left half a bottle of semi-syn EO (1/2 liter), is it ok that I partially change away half the stock EO (which I think it's getting 'dirty') and top up using my left over EO at this point? Is it ok to mix EO? I was thinking of in future using 1/2 semi-, 1/2 full-syn EO to optimize the smoothness and enhancement of lifespan of the engine. Any suggestions?

 

Violinbite

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Hi nbk3,

 

Currently I have traveled close to 200km. I can sense that the gear level starting to have clicking resistance when shifting gear. Previously I have left half a bottle of semi-syn EO (1/2 liter), is it ok that I partially change away half the stock EO (which I think it's getting 'dirty') and top up using my left over EO at this point? Is it ok to mix EO? I was thinking of in future using 1/2 semi-, 1/2 full-syn EO to optimize the smoothness and enhancement of lifespan of the engine. Any suggestions?

 

Violinbite

 

Violinbite,

 

nah, i wudnt recommend just changing half the EO. my recommendation is to simply ride it to the nearest/prefered shop and do a mineral EO change for just $10(i did mine at unique motors near my house). especially since you're still running it in. the spare EO you can keep it for the future use.

 

the rationale of not changing half the EO is simple, half-change means half of the metal chipping/shaving contaminants are still slushing around inside, more importantly to not let that happen since you're still running it in.

 

mixing EO, in my opinion is fine, but in ur situation, ure still at the running-in stage, hence i wudnt recommend using expensive EOs since it might retard/slow down the running-in process. also since running in means u're changing EO at certain mileages to flush out contaminants. my experience with EO life is that mineral oils last about 1500km while semi or syn oils can go for about 2000km. as times goes by, u will build upon ur experience on whether the oils have sheared or not.

 

for ur question of mixing it 50-50 in the future, in my honest opinion, sure, why not? :) more importantly, is the oil-change-interval.

 

incase u're wondering, i've tried a few oils. my latest foray is into HDEO (shell rimula) which so far, is working very well! at sgd$6.5/litre, it seems to offer unbeatable value. engine performance doesnt seem to have any difference at all.

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Hi nbk3,

 

Thanks so much for the advise. I ve change my EO at 300km. I notice the all the black soot in the previous EO when the mechanic drain it all out.. I took a full change of EO, and indeed I can sense the switching of gear is slightly smoother and the clutch-in action wasn't as tiring or tight. By far, the fuel indicator is slightly above the half tank and I have covered slightly above 300km, hopes this is still good consumption. I attempted to check on the usage of the 6th gear under moderate speed cruising, it appears sustainable at 45km/h@3500rpm (no apparent knocking yet) to my highest tried out of

80km/h@6000rpm. The bike seems more willing to throttle this time. Generally I m more satisfied with it's speed than previous Pulsar 180. By the way, I heard some biker had lower the sprocket size of the back wheel, how does this going to affect the overall speed and pick up?

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Hi Xunknownz,

 

Generally it boils down $ and cents when considering getting a new bike over a used one, sometimes it seems worthwhile to consider the premium getting a new bike for a peace of mind, which in this case applied to me.

I was riding Pulsar 180 after I gotten my 2b last Nov. Wanting to adapt to real road condition at a low initial cost layout, i try a heavier bike than ybr125 (to max up the cc range as well) and chose Pulsar with a FBC plate. Initially I thought I gotten a good deal of a bike with 6 years left at below $3k, but it didnt start that well with the Pulsar. The bike initially had skidded before and I went on assuming it was rectified. It turn out the tyres were old stock ones. I had once skidded at low speed after a rain when i was stopping at the junction. Thankfully traffic was light and no cars behind me, i was slightly scratched. Later, i changed the tyres immediately, with the mechanic telling me the Pulsar steer bearing in poor shape that likely caused my buang. Another not too small incident was that the front brake level slips loose for no apparent reason. I brought back to mechanic and we found out a tiny pinion at the level has completely corroded and causes the level slippage. These two incidents could hv been fatal but I m thankful i m still alive. The problem with mechanic is that they dont carry out any remedy work if problem dont surfaced and that can be hidden in a used bike like my case despite the Pulsar seems new under FBC plate. Nevertheless, after spending small amount $ the problem is taken care over and I did still enjoyed my ride on Pulsar till April, which lately i find fault on cruising speed.

The Tiger has begun to take breeze in my ride, its performance is better than my experience over Pulsar though with slight compromise on FC, but it wasnt that bad, stilll hitting 300km at half tank indicator mark. My daily work covers quite a number of road conditions; from expressways to congested road along lornie rd thomson rd, construction areas with metal plates and pot holes, rain and shine frequently, up and down hill along hillview and lots of sloped carpark, as i travel over the island for classes.

I reckon selling off Pulsar and top up for the Tiger is worthwhile than exhausted the Pulsar for next 5 years at $0 scrap value before getting a new bike after 5 years. Afterall, cost of inflation and possibly rise of COE is possibly a factor to consider with so many new riders coming in each year.

Just a two cents experience of sharing. :-)

 

Violinbite

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Hi nbk3,

 

Thanks so much for the advise. I ve change my EO at 300km. I notice the all the black soot in the previous EO when the mechanic drain it all out.. I took a full change of EO, and indeed I can sense the switching of gear is slightly smoother and the clutch-in action wasn't as tiring or tight. By far, the fuel indicator is slightly above the half tank and I have covered slightly above 300km, hopes this is still good consumption. I attempted to check on the usage of the 6th gear under moderate speed cruising, it appears sustainable at 45km/h@3500rpm (no apparent knocking yet) to my highest tried out of

80km/h@6000rpm. The bike seems more willing to throttle this time. Generally I m more satisfied with it's speed than previous Pulsar 180. By the way, I heard some biker had lower the sprocket size of the back wheel, how does this going to affect the overall speed and pick up?

glad to know things r working out well for u! im getting around 35-37km/L travelling normally around 90-100. our engine is capable of taking typical 95 or 92 octane fuels without knocking as our compression ratio isnt considered to be high(as compared to other bikes that run 12:1)

 

changing the sprocket ratio, for eg: changing the rear sprocket to a lesser teeth one wud result in higher top speed but lesser pickup power. the trade-off, is something of personal preference. with the advice of more experienced fellas, i changed my rear to a 39 tooth and now i cruise comfortably with 90kmph at 6000rpm.

 

stick with EO change schedule strictly, especially during run-in. becos its when most of the gunk gets washed into the oil and its beneficial to change it regularly. after that, every 1500km-2000km going along nicely

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Hi nbk3,

 

Thanks for the info. Just now, I visited Bike Workz at Kaki Bukit. The boss told me the similar things as your mentioned. He added that as for my case, whom thinking about a good balance of better speed with slight improvement on FC is not to reduce too many teeth on the back sprocket. Probably settling for 43 or 44 teeth than the original 48 teeth (yours was 39 as mentioned). My personal feel is that in this case of modification, I will had to brief out the usage of gear 1 and 2, build up more momentum in gear 3 and 4, finally cruise out at highest gear - this may be the explanation for better FC. What you

think? I was reading an article previously in comparing various EO, there was one full synthetic one that catches my eye was 10W40 motorcycle EO but AMSOIL, not sure if you heard of it.. It cost $28 a quart which carried by the same workshop.

 

Violinbite

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Hi nbk3,

 

By the way, at present 90km/h is a little too fast for me.:) 80km/h is a good speed to have occassionally. Personally, if the current bike can improve by 10km/h in cruising will be sufficient for me. Relax cruising of 60km/h -70km/h is best if the engine don't roar too much. Haha.:)

 

Violinbite

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Hi Xunknownz,

 

Generally it boils down $ and cents when considering getting a new bike over a used one, sometimes it seems worthwhile to consider the premium getting a new bike for a peace of mind, which in this case applied to me.

I was riding Pulsar 180 after I gotten my 2b last Nov. Wanting to adapt to real road condition at a low initial cost layout, i try a heavier bike than ybr125 (to max up the cc range as well) and chose Pulsar with a FBC plate. Initially I thought I gotten a good deal of a bike with 6 years left at below $3k, but it didnt start that well with the Pulsar. The bike initially had skidded before and I went on assuming it was rectified. It turn out the tyres were old stock ones. I had once skidded at low speed after a rain when i was stopping at the junction. Thankfully traffic was light and no cars behind me, i was slightly scratched. Later, i changed the tyres immediately, with the mechanic telling me the Pulsar steer bearing in poor shape that likely caused my buang. Another not too small incident was that the front brake level slips loose for no apparent reason. I brought back to mechanic and we found out a tiny pinion at the level has completely corroded and causes the level slippage. These two incidents could hv been fatal but I m thankful i m still alive. The problem with mechanic is that they dont carry out any remedy work if problem dont surfaced and that can be hidden in a used bike like my case despite the Pulsar seems new under FBC plate. Nevertheless, after spending small amount $ the problem is taken care over and I did still enjoyed my ride on Pulsar till April, which lately i find fault on cruising speed.

The Tiger has begun to take breeze in my ride, its performance is better than my experience over Pulsar though with slight compromise on FC, but it wasnt that bad, stilll hitting 300km at half tank indicator mark. My daily work covers quite a number of road conditions; from expressways to congested road along lornie rd thomson rd, construction areas with metal plates and pot holes, rain and shine frequently, up and down hill along hillview and lots of sloped carpark, as i travel over the island for classes.

I reckon selling off Pulsar and top up for the Tiger is worthwhile than exhausted the Pulsar for next 5 years at $0 scrap value before getting a new bike after 5 years. Afterall, cost of inflation and possibly rise of COE is possibly a factor to consider with so many new riders coming in each year.

Just a two cents experience of sharing. :-)

 

Violinbite

 

Thx violinbite for e detail review. Yah honda is definitely way better than pulsar :)

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Hi nbk3,

 

Thanks for the info. Just now, I visited Bike Workz at Kaki Bukit. The boss told me the similar things as your mentioned. He added that as for my case, whom thinking about a good balance of better speed with slight improvement on FC is not to reduce too many teeth on the back sprocket. Probably settling for 43 or 44 teeth than the original 48 teeth (yours was 39 as mentioned). My personal feel is that in this case of modification, I will had to brief out the usage of gear 1 and 2, build up more momentum in gear 3 and 4, finally cruise out at highest gear - this may be the explanation for better FC. What you

think? I was reading an article previously in comparing various EO, there was one full synthetic one that catches my eye was 10W40 motorcycle EO but AMSOIL, not sure if you heard of it.. It cost $28 a quart which carried by the same workshop.

 

Violinbite

 

i thought the stock toothing was 43 teeth for the rear sprocket? mine was. i had it changed to 39 for the rear. i do agree with you, your nice fuel conumption should mainly be due to your speed moderation.

 

as for the EO, yes i have heard of it, so far ive tried a few different kinds of EO, thankfully our engine isnt picky :) for EO, to be honest, i'll say go with what you like, and what your pocket allows. im running mine on HDEO for now, runs as well as typical motorcycle oils.

 

Thx violinbite for e detail review. Yah honda is definitely way better than pulsar :)

 

in my opinion, bajaj is a good bike as well, as vouched by the pulsar riders in the other thread, perhaps its just that its relatively new(as compared to the big 4) and definitely on first impressions, the association with india does works wonders on its reputation. give it some time and im sure its fan base will grow.

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Hi, I am now at lesson 5 of 2B course, and can't wait to buy my bike :) I want a big bike (brand new), which is a bit of a problem in 2B. Saw Tiger in a dealer showroom in the Ubi area, and it looks suitable, so I may become an owner as soon as I finish my course. So I wanted to appear at this forum as may be a Tiger user in near future.

 

I don't have prior motorcycling experience, but drove a car and rode scooters (in Phuket), so I don't really have specific criteria for making the choice, except for the obvious: the look, safety, and reliability. It would be mostly for leisure and travel, maybe riding to work (AMK to Raffles Place), and any bike that can do it well would work for me. Even scooters (like Gilera Runner) look interesting (and should be safer, as no clutch). But I think I should get used to clutch as in future I want to pass class 2A and 2 and upgrade to a bigger bike.

 

Other big bikes I saw are Yamaha FZ16 and TVS Apache (RTR 180)... though I may be slightly biased towards Honda as they are used in the driving center.

Class 3 in 2008, Class 2B - in progress

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Hi, I am now at lesson 5 of 2B course, and can't wait to buy my bike :) I want a big bike (brand new), which is a bit of a problem in 2B. Saw Tiger in a dealer showroom in the Ubi area, and it looks suitable, so I may become an owner as soon as I finish my course. So I wanted to appear at this forum as may be a Tiger user in near future.

 

I don't have prior motorcycling experience, but drove a car and rode scooters (in Phuket), so I don't

really have specific criteria for making the choice, except for the obvious: the look, safety, and

reliability. It would be mostly for leisure and travel, maybe riding to work (AMK to Raffles Place), and

any bike that can do it well would work for me. Even scooters (like Gilera Runner) look interesting (and

should be safer, as no clutch). But I think I should get used to clutch as in future I want to pass class 2A and 2 and upgrade to a bigger bike.

 

Other big bikes I saw are Yamaha FZ16 and TVS Apache (RTR 180)... though I may be slightly biased towards Honda as they are used in the driving center.

 

Hi Ru1,

 

U mentioned that u wanted to upgrade to class 2a/2 license. Have u consider a used vehicle? It's more economical... Unless u are only solely for brand new person. Depreciation is very close to half the price after 1st year riding from new. New Honda Tiger is slightly above $8k which I paid for.

 

There are several big 2b bikes for choices like Honda Phantom, Honda CBF150, Yamaha FZ16 and Bajaj Pulsar 180 or 200. FZ16 and Tiger are newer models thus less common in the 2nd hand market.

 

Personally, I wasn't a big build person, when I first got my 'big' 2b bike (Bajaj Pulsar - 147kg), I was a little intimidated by the larger size (compared to Yamaha YBR125 - 110kg). A used bike though, and true enough, with some embarrassment, I did fall the bike stationary while parking having not used to the weight.:) Now is better and that's gave me some confidence to buy the current new Tiger. It's a great bike, with 6 gear box, great speed enough for commuting and pick-up. Though u must like the assymetrical headlamp design.

 

Violinbite

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Hi, I am now at lesson 5 of 2B course, and can't wait to buy my bike :) I want a big bike (brand new), which is a bit of a problem in 2B. Saw Tiger in a dealer showroom in the Ubi area, and it looks suitable, so I may become an owner as soon as I finish my course. So I wanted to appear at this forum as may be a Tiger user in near future.

 

I don't have prior motorcycling experience, but drove a car and rode scooters (in Phuket), so I don't

really have specific criteria for making the choice, except for the obvious: the look, safety, and

reliability. It would be mostly for leisure and travel, maybe riding to work (AMK to Raffles Place), and

any bike that can do it well would work for me. Even scooters (like Gilera Runner) look interesting (and

should be safer, as no clutch). But I think I should get used to clutch as in future I want to pass class 2A and 2 and upgrade to a bigger bike.

 

Other big bikes I saw are Yamaha FZ16 and TVS Apache (RTR 180)... though I may be slightly biased towards Honda as they are used in the driving center.

 

Hi Ru1,

 

U mentioned that u wanted to upgrade to class 2a/2 license. Have u consider a used vehicle? It's more economical... Unless u are only solely for brand new person. Depreciation is very close to half the price after 1st year riding from new. New Honda Tiger is slightly above $8k which I paid for.

 

There are several big 2b bikes for choices like Honda Phantom, Honda CBF150, Yamaha FZ16 and Bajaj Pulsar 180 or 200. FZ16 and Tiger are newer models thus less common in the 2nd hand market.

 

Personally, I wasn't a big build person, when I first got my 'big' 2b bike (Bajaj Pulsar - 147kg), I was a little intimidated by the larger size (compared to Yamaha YBR125 - 110kg). A used bike though, and true enough, with some embarrassment, I did fall the bike stationary while parking having not used to the weight.:) Now is better and that's gave me some confidence to buy the current new Tiger. It's a great bike, with 6 gear box, great speed enough for commuting and pick-up. Though u must like the assymetrical headlamp design.

 

Violinbite

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Hi Violinbite, thank you for advice. I think a new bike would be more certainty, ie less potential trouble, though economically an old bike may make much more sense. Even if new bike depreciation is 4k in about 18 months I will use it, it's about $230 per month, which looks manageable, but I hope it will be even lower due to inflation, coe, and maybe I'll ride it for a longer period. So both options look possible.

Class 3 in 2008, Class 2B - in progress

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Hi Violinbite, thank you for advice. I think a new bike would be more certainty, ie less potential trouble, though economically an old bike may make much more sense. Even if new bike depreciation is 4k in about 18 months I will use it, it's about $230 per month, which looks manageable, but I hope it will be even lower due to inflation, coe, and maybe I'll ride it for a longer period. So both options look possible.

 

Hi Ru1,

 

Perhaps a newer old bike (1-2yr) might be a good option (and it happen to have a bike model you like:) ). Spend some small $ to have it completely inspected and tune in.

 

If u happen to buy a Tiger, we will rejoice and welcome you to the club. Haha.

 

I gotten my 2b license in Nov2011, by far I only rode three bike type: ybr125, pulsar180 & current Tiger. No doubt Tiger has the best pick-up power and a decent cruising speed. You should love it once getting a hang of it. Though in terms of FC (fuel consumption) pulsar delivers best return. But FC usually is not the only factor to consider after a while.

 

I suppose you are from BBDC. I was from Ubi DC. I was thankful to only take two attempts to pass my test. At Ubi, I knew of people taking more then 5-12 times to clear their test, spending almost two years in the drive centre. TP test for 2b seems to be very details and strict. Hope that you got through in a breeze.:)

 

Tiger all the way!

 

Violinbite

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Hey Tiger bros n sis.. My Tiger 31 mths this month... still roaring strongly... haha!!

 

HEY I AM THINKING OF A TIGER MEETUP?

Ride Free, Ride Hard, and Ride Safe.

Current ride:Hyundai i30 CW (Sept 2016 - Present)

Yamaha FZ1-S (Aug 2014 - Present)

Previous ride: Honda Tiger 200 (Oct 2009 - Jun 2012)

Suzuki GSR 600 (Jun 2012 - Sept 2013)

Hyundai Matrix (Jun 2013 - Aug 2016)
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come come join the pulsar riders...

and get posioned...

haha...

 

don't believe you can ask nbk or kitty...

haha...

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss143/godsendworx/mesh/supporters/Alvinyansg_Siggy.jpg

 

Ride Safe

Arrive ALIVE

 

Bajaj Service & Spare Parts List #51601,Pg 1033

 

SBT Members List #49950,Pg 999

 

Pulsar Enhancement Info #39332,Pg787

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